IN INDIAN MEXICO 



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The Music at Cancuc 



IN INDIAN MEXICO 



A NARRATIVE OF TRAVEL 
AND LABOR 



BY 

FREDERICK STARR 




CHICAGO 
FORBES & COMPANY 

1908 



5 IS 



LiBSARY of QOfiii'dEm. 
fwc Copies rieton,,.] 

« APR 3 !y08 

I ;c^ 7 G^/ 



Copyright, 1908 

BY 

FREDERICK STARR 



K. K. DONNELLEY & SONS COUPANY 
CHICAGO 



f-//y^^ 



■JO 



IN INDIAN MEXICO 
IS AFFECTIONATELY DEDICATED TO 

A. A. ROBINSON 

TO WHOM ALL MY WORK IN MEXICO IS DUE 

AND 

WHOSE INTEREST HAS BEEN CONTINUOUS 

AND UNFAILING 



PREFACE 

The reading public may well ask, Why another travel 
book on Mexico? Few countries have been so frequently 
written up by the traveler. Many books, good, bad, 
and indifferent, but chiefly bad, have been perpetrated. 
Most of these books, however, cover the same ground, and 
ground which has been traversed by many people. Indian 
Mexico is practically unknown. The only travel- book 
regarding it, in English, is Lumholtz's "Unknown Mexico.'^ 
The indians among whom Lumholtz worked lived in 
northwestern Mexico; those among whom I have studied 
are in southern Mexico. The only district where his work 
and mine overlap is the Tarascan area. In fact, then, I 
write upon an almost unknown and untouched subject. 
Lumholtz studied life and customs; my study has been the 
physical type of south Mexican indians. Within the area 
covered by Lumholtz, the physical characteristics of the 
tribes have been studied by Hrdlicka. His studies and 
my own are practically the only investigations within the 
field. 

There are two Mexicos. Northern Mexico to the lati 
tude of the capital city is a mestizo country; the indians of 
pure blood within that area occupy limited and circum- 
scribed regions. Southern Mexico is Indian country; 
there are large regions, where the mestizos, not the indians, 
are the exception. From the time of my first contact with 
Mexican indians, I was impressed with the notable dif- 
ferences between tribes, and desired to make a serious study 
of their types. In 1895, the accidental meeting with a 
priest from Guatemala led to my making a journey to Cen- 



VI 



PREFACE 



tral America. It was on that journey that I saw how the 
work in question might be done. While the government of 
Mexico is modeled upon the same pattern as our own, it is 
far more paternal in its nature. The Republic is a con- 
federation of sovereign states, each of which has its elected 
governor. The states are subdivided into districts some- 
what corresponding to our counties, over each of which is 
a jefe politico appointed by the governor; he has no respon- 
sibility to those below him, but is directly responsible to the 
man who names him, and who can at will remove him; 
he is not expected to trouble the state government unne- 
cessarily, and as long as he turns over the taxes which are 
due the state he is given a free hand. Within the districts 
are the cities and towns, each with its local, independent, 
elected town government. 

The work I planned to do among these Indian towns 
was threefold: i. The measurement of one hundred 
men and twenty-five women in each population, fourteen 
measurements being taken upon each subject; 2. The mak- 
ing of pictures, — portraits, dress, occupations, customs, 
buildings, and landscapes; 3. The making of plaster busts 
of five individuals in each tribe. To do such work, of 
course, involved difficulty, as the Indians of Mexico* are 
ignorant, timid, and suspicious. Much time would be 
necessary, in each village, if one depended upon establishing 
friendly and personal relations with the people. But with 
government assistance, all might be done promptly and 
easily. Such assistance was readily secured. Before 
starting upon any given journey, I secured letters from the 
Department of Fomento, one of the Executive Departments 
of the Federal Government. These letters were directed 
to the governors of the states; they were courteously worded 
introductions. From the governors, I received letters of 
a more vigorous character to the jefes of the districts to be 



PREFACE 



Vll 



visited. From the jejes^ I received stringent orders upon 
the local governments; these orders entered into no detail, 
but stated that I had come, recommended by the superior 
authorities, for scientific investigations; that the local 
authorities should furnish the necessaries of life at just 
prices, and that they should supply such help as was neces- 
sary for my investigations. In addition to the orders from 
the jejes to the town authorities, I carried a general letter 
from the governor of the state to officials of every grade 
within its hmits. This was done in case I should at any 
time reach towns in districts where I had been unable to 
see the jeje politico. It was desirable, when possible, that 
the jeje should be seen before serious work was under- 
taken. As Governor Gonzales of Oaxaca once remarked, 
when furnishing me a general letter: "You should always 
see the jeje politico of the district first. These indians 
know nothing of me, and often will not recognize my name; 
but the jeje of their district they know, and his orders they 
will obey." In using these official orders, I adopted what- 
ever methods were best calculated to gain my ends; suc- 
cess depended largely on my taking matters into my own 
hands. Each official practically unloaded me upon the 
next below him, with the expectation that I should gain my 
ends, if possible, but at the same time he felt, and I knew, 
that his responsibility had ended. In case of serious diffi- 
culty, I could not actually count upon the backing of any 
one above the official with whom I then was dealing. 

Upon the Guatemala expedition, which took place in 
January - March, 1896, my only companion was Mr. 
Ernst Lux, whose knowledge of the language, the country, 
and the people was of the utmost value. As the result of 
that journey, my vacations through a period of four years 
were devoted to this field of research. The first field expe- 
dition covered the period from November, 1897, ^^ ^^e end 



viii PREFACE 



of March, 1898; the plan of work included the visiting of 
a dozen or more tribes, with interpreter, photographer, and 
plaster- worker; the success of the plan depended upon 
others. Dr. W. D. Powell was to serve as interpreter, Mr. 
Bedros Tatarian as photographer; at the last moment the 
plans regarding the plaster- worker failed; arrived in the 
field, Dr. Powell was unable to carry out his contract; the 
photographic work disintegrated, and failure stared us in 
the face. Reorganization took place. Rev. D. A. Wilson 
was secured as interpreter, two Mexican plaster-workers, 
Anselmo Pacheco of Puebla and Ramon Godinez of Guada- 
lajara, were discovered, and work was actually carried 
through upon four tribes. The second field expedition 
covered the period of January-March, 1899; eight tribes 
were visited, and a most successful season's work was 
done; Charles B. Lang was photographer, Anselmo Pa 
checo plaster-worker, and Manuel Gonzales general helper. 
The third field season, January- March, 1900, was in every 
way successful, six populations being visited ; my force con- 
sisted of Louis Grabic photographer, Ramon Godinez 
plaster- worker, and Manuel Gonzales general assistant. 
The work was brought to a conclusion in January- March, 
1901, during which period six tribes were visited; the party 
was the same as the preceding year. 

"In Indian Mexico" claims to be only a narrative of 
travel and of work. It is intended for the general public. 
The scientific results of our expeditions have been pub- 
lished under the following titles : 

1. The Indians of Southern Mexico: an Ethnographic 
Album. Chicago, 1899. Cloth; oblong 4to; pp. 32. 
141 full-page plates. 

2. Notes upon the Ethnography of Southern Mexico. 
1900. 8vo, pp. 98. 72 cuts, maps, etc. Proc. Dav. Acad. 
Nat. Sci., Vol. VIII. 



PREFACE ix 

3. Notes on the Ethnography of Southern Mexico, 
Part II. 1902. 8vo, pp. 109. 52 cuts, map, etc. Proc. 
Dav. Acad. Nat. Sci., Vol. IX. 

4. The Physical Characters of the Indians of South- 
ern Mexico. 4to, 59 pp. Sketch map, color diagram, 
and 30 double cuts. Decennial Publications, University 
of Chicago, 1902. 

5. The Mapa de Cuauhtlantzinco or Codice Campos. 
1898. 8vo, pp. 38. 46 engravings. University of Chicago 
Press. 

6. Recent Mexican Study of the Native Languages of 
Mexico. 1900. 8vo, pp. 19. 7 portraits. 

7. Picture of Otomi woman beating bark paper. 
Printed on sheet of the original paper; mounted. 

8. The Mapa of Huilotepec. Reproduction; single 
sheet, mounted. 

9. The Mapa of Huauhtla. Reproduction; single 
sheet, mounted. 

10. Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open 
Court. 1899. 

11. Mexican Paper. American Antiquarian. 1900. 

12. The Sacral Spot in Maya Indians. Science. 1903. 
Naturally, in a work of such extent we have been under 

obhgation to many parties. It is impossible to acknowl- 
edge, in detail, such obligations. We must, however, ex- 
press our indebtedness, for assistance rendered, to the Mexi- 
can Central Railroad, the Mexican Railway, the Mexican 
National Railroad, the Tehuantepec Railroad, the Mexican 
Southern Railroad, and the Interoceanic Railroad; also 
to the Ward Line of steamers. Among individuals, it is 
no unfair discrimination to express especial thanks to Mr. 
A. A. Robinson and Mr. A. L. Van Antwerp. President 
Diaz has ever shown a friendly interest in my plans of work 
and the results obtained. Seiior Manuel Fernandez Leal, 



X PREFACE 

Minister of the Department of Fomento, more than any 
other official, lent us every aid and assistance in his power; 
his successor, Sefior Leandro Fernandez, continued the 
kindness shown by Minister Leal. And to all the gover- 
nors of the states and to the jefes of the districts we are 
under many obligations, and express to each and all our 
appreciation of their kind assistance. Those personal 
friends who have been helpful in this specific work in In- 
dian Mexico are mentioned in the appropriate places in 
the text. To those companions and assistants who accom- 
panied us upon the journeys a large part of the results of 
this work are due. 

Chicago, January, 1908. 





CONTENTS 










CHAPTER PAGE 


I. 


Priestly Arcbleology 




I 


II. 


We Start for Guatemala . 








13 


III. 


The Land of the Mixes 








22 


IV. 


Through Chiapas 








39 


V. 


At Huixquilucan 








56 


VI. 


Lake Patzcuaro .... 








68 


VII. 


To Uruapan before the Railroa. 


D 






76 


VIII. 


Tlaxcala ..... 








85 


IX. 


Zamora and the Once Pueblos . 








95 


X. 


The Boy with the Smile 








. 108 


XI. 


In THE MixTECA Alta . 








112 


XII. 


The Mixes Revisited . 








142 


XIII. 


About Tehuantepec 








161 


XIV. 


On the Main Highroad 








173 


XV. 


CUICATLAN .... 








181 


XVI. 


In Tlaxcalan Towns . 








. 188 


XVII. 


In the Chinantla 








198 


XVIII. 


To Coixtlahuaca . 








216 


XIX. 


Huauhtla and the Mazatecs 








. 228 


XX. 


Tepehuas and Totonacs 








• 239 


XXI. 


In the Huaxteca 








• 274 


XXII. 


In Maya Land 








• 293 


XXIII. 


Ox-cart Experiences . 








• 328 


XXIV. 


At Tuxtla Gutierrez . 








■ 351 


XXV. 


Tzotzils and Tzendals 








■ 360 


XXVI. 


Chols ..... 








. 381 


XXVII. 


Conclusion .... 
Glossary .... 
Appendix . . . 








• 395 

• 399 

■ 405 



IN INDIAN MEXICO 

CHAPTER I 

PRIESTLY ARCH/EOLOGY 
(1895) 

T X JHILE we stood in the Puebla station, waiting for 
' ^ the train to be made ready, we noticed a priest, 
who was buying his ticket at the office. On boarding the 
train, we saw nothing of him, as he had entered another 
car. Soon after we started, Herman made his usual trip 
of inspection through the train, and on his return told me 
that a learned priest was in the second-class coach, and that 
I ought to know him. As I paid no great attention to his 
suggestion, he soon deserted me for his priestly friend, but 
presently returned and renewed his advice. He told me 
this priest was no common man; that he was an ardent 
archaeologist; that he not only collected relics, but made full 
notes and diagrams of all his investigations; that he cared 
for live Indians also, and had made a great collection of 
dress, weapons, and tools, among Guatemalan tribes. 
When I even yet showed no intention of hurrying in to visit 
his new acquaintance, the boy said: "You must come in 
to see him, for I promised him you would, and you ought 
not to prove me to be a liar." 

This appeal proved effectual and I soon called upon the 
priestly archaeologist in the other car. He was an interest- 
ing man. By birth a German, he spoke excellent English; 
bom of Protestant parents and reared in their faith, in early 
manhood be became a Cathohc; renounced by his parents 



IN INDIAN MEXICO 



and left without support, he was befriended by Jesuits and 
determined to become a priest. Entering the ministry at 
twenty-nine years of age, he was sent as mission priest to 
foreign lands. He had lived in California, Utah, and Ne- 
vada; he had labored in Ecuador, Panama, and Guatemala. 
His interest in archaeology, kindled in the Southwest, con- 
tinued in his later fields of labor. Waxing confidential he 
said: "I am a priest first, because I must live, but it does 
not interfere much with my archaeology." For years past 
the padre has lived in Guatemala, where he had charge of 
one of the largest parishes in that Republic, with some 
eighteen thousand full-blood Indians in his charge. Like 
most Germans a linguist, the padre spoke German, French, 
Spanish, English, and Quiche, the most important indian 
speech of Guatemala. In his parish, he so arranged his 
work as to leave most of his time free for investigation. 
Twice a week he had baptisms, on Thursday and Sunday; 
these duties on Thursday took but a couple of hours, leav- 
ing the rest of the day free; Sundays, of course, were lost, 
but not completely, for the Indians often then told him of 
new localities, where diggings might be undertaken. Always 
when digging into ancient mounds and graves, he had his 
horse near by ready for mounting, and his oil and other 
necessaries at hand, in case he should be summoned to the 
bedside of the dying. As the Indians always knew where 
to look for him, no time was lost. 

Not only was the padre an archaeologist: he also gath- 
ered plants, birds, and insects. When he was leaving Ger- 
many, his nephew, the ten-year-old child of his sister, wished 
to accompany him. The parents refused their permission, 
but the uncle gave the boy some money, and they met each 
other in Frankfort and started on their journey. They 
have been together ever since. The padre depends com- 
pletely on the younger man, whom he has fashioned to his 



PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY 



mind. The plants, birdskins, and insects have supplied a 
steady income. The plants cost labor; insects were easier 
to get. All the Indian boys in the parish were supplied 
with poison-bottles and set to work; a stock of prints of 
saints, beads, medals, and crucifixes was doled out to the 
little collectors, according to the value of their trophies. 
To allay the suspicions of his parishioners, the padre an- 
nounced that he used the insects in making medicines. 
One Sunday a pious old indian woman brought to church 
a great beetle, which she had caught in her corn field four 
days before; during that time it had been tied by a string 
to her bed's leg; she received a medal. One day a man 
brought a bag containing some five hundred living insects; 
on opening it, they all escaped into the house, causing a 
lively time for their recapture. 

The nephew, Ernst, had made a collection of eleven 
hundred skins of Guatemalan birds. The padre and he 
have supplied specimens to many of the great museums of 
the world, but the choicest things have never been permitted 
to leave their hands. 

The padre is a great success at getting into trouble. 
He fled from Ecuador on account of political difficulties; 
his stay in Guatemala is the longest he has ever made in one 
place. During his eight years there he was successful; 
but he finally antagonized the government, was arrested, 
and thrown into jail. He succeeded in escaping, fled to 
Salvador, and from there made his way to the United 
States, where, for a little time, he worked, unhappily, at 
San Antonio, Texas. A short time since, the Archbishop 
of Oaxaca was in Texas, met the padre, and promised him 
an appointment in his diocese. The padre was now on 
his way to Oaxaca to see the prelate and receive his charge. 

He was full of hope for a happy future. When he 
learned that we were bound for the ruins of Mitla, he was 



IN INDIAN MEXICO 



fired with a desire to accompany us. At Oaxaca we sep- 
arated, going to different hotels. My party was counting 
upon the company of Mr. Lucius Smith, as interpreter and 
companion, to the ruins, but we were behind our appoint- 
ment and he had gone upon another expedition. This 
delighted the padre, who saw a new light upon the path of 
duty. The archbishop had received him cordially, and 
had given him a parish, although less than a day had passed 
since his arrival. When the padre knew of our disappoint- 
ment, he hastened to his prelate, told him that an eminent 
American archaeologist, with a party of four, wished to 
visit Mitla, but had no interpreter; might he not accom- 
pany these worthy gentlemen, in some way serving mother 
church by doing so? So strong was his appeal, that he 
was deputed to say mass at Mitla Sunday, starting for his 
new parish of Chila on the Monday following. 

In the heavy, lumbering coach we left next morning, 
Saturday, for Mitla. The road, usually deep with dust, 
was in fair condition on account of recent rains. We 
arrived in the early afternoon and at once betook ourselves 
to the ruins. At the curacy, we presented the archbishop's 
letter to the Indian cura, who turned it over once or twice, 
then asked the padre to read it, as his eyes were bad. While 
the reading proceeded, the old man Ustened with wonder, 
and then exclaimed, "What a learned man you are to read 
like that!" As we left, the padre expressed his feelings 
at the comeliness of the old priest's indian housekeeper, at 
the number of her children, at the suspicious wideness of 
his bed, and at his ignorance, in wearing a ring, for all the 
world just like a bishop's. But he soon forgot his pious 
irritation amid those marvelous ruins of past grandeur. 
In our early ramble he lost no opportunity to tell the In- 
dians that he would repeat mass on the morrow at seven, 
and that they should make a special effort to be present. 



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pi n II I I| T II r' l ^ m i i 












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V^^-^s,^- »^« ,'• »•'' 




,jj- .,..*..^»»^ ^'tr-^ v-^ ^'- - 



With the Padre ix Mitla Ruins 





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MHi^jte 


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IL'^^^"-^;-^^^ 



The Padre, Ernst and the Dogs 



PRIESTLY ARCHiEOLOGY 



But as we wandered from one to another of the ancient 
buildings, the thought of the morrow's duty lost its sweet- 
ness. He several times remarked that it was a great pity to 
lose any of our precious morning hours in saying mass, 
when there were ruins of such interest to be seen. These 
complaints gained in force and frequency as evening ap- 
proached, until finally, as we sat at supper, he announced 
his decision to say mass before daybreak; he would call 
me at five o'clock, we would go directly to the church, 
we would be through service before six, would take our 
morning's coffee immediately after, and then would have 
quite a piece of the morning left for the ruins, before the 
coach should leave for Oaxaca. 

The plan was carried out in detail. At five v/e were 
called from our beds by the anxious padre. Herman and 
I were the only members of the party who were sufficiently 
devout to care to hear mass so early. With the padre, we 
stumbled in the darkness up to the church, where we roused 
the old woman who kept the key and the boy who rang the 
bell. The vestments were produced, the padre hastily 
robed, and the bell rung; the padre was evidently irritated 
at the absence of a congregation, as he showed by the rapid 
and careless way in which he repeated the first part of the 
service. When, however, at the Credo, he turned and saw 
that several poor Indians had quietly crept in, a change 
came over him; his tone became fuller, his manner more 
dignified, and the service itself more impressive and deco- 
rous. Still, we were through long before six, and throwing 
off his vestments, which he left the boy to put away, the 
padre seized me by the arm, and we hastened down the hill 
to our morning's coffee. On the way we met a number of 
Indians on their way to mass, whom the padre sternly 
rebuked for their laziness and want of devotion. Immedi- 
ately after coffee, we were among the ruins. 



6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

The padre had kindly arranged for my presentation to 
his Grace, Archbishop Gillow. Reaching Oaxaca late on 
Sunday afternoon, we called at the Palace. His Grace is 
a man of good presence, with a face of some strength and 
a courteous and gracious manner. He appeared to be 
about fifty-five years of age. After the padre had knelt 
and kissed the ring, the archbishop invited us to be seated, 
expressed an interest in our trip to Mitla, hoping that it had 
proved successful. He then spoke at some length in regard 
to his diocese. He emphasized its diversity in climate and 
productions, the wide range of its plant life, the great num- 
ber of indian tribes which occupied it, the Babel of tongues 
within it, its vast mineral wealth. A Mexican by birth, the 
archbishop is, in part, of English blood and was educated, 
as a boy, in England. He speaks English easily and well. 
He showed us many curious and interesting things. Among 
these was a cylindrical, box-like figure of a rain-god, which 
was found by a priest upon his arrival at the Mixe Indian 
village of Mixistlan.* It was in the village church, at the 
high altar where it shared worship with the virgin and 
the crucifix. The archbishop himself, in his description of 
the incident, used the word latria. We were also shown 
a httle cross, which stood upon the archbishop's writing- 
table, made in part from a fragment of that miraculous 
cross, which was found by Sir Francis Drake, upon the 
west coast. That "terrible fanatic" tried to destroy it, 
according to a well-known story. The cross was found 
standing when the Spaniards first arrived and is commonly 
attributed to St. Thomas. Sir Francis upon seeing this 
emblem of a hated faith, first gave orders to hew it down 
with axes; but axes were not sharp enough to harm it. 
Fires were then kindled to burn it, but had no effect. Ropes 
were attached to it and many men were set to drag it from 

* Survivals of Paganism in Mexico. The Open Court. 1899. 



PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY 



the sand ; but all their efforts could not move it. So it was 
left standing, and from that time became an object of es- 
pecial veneration. Time, however, destroys all things. 
People were constantly breaking off bits of the sacred em- 
blem for relics until so little was left of the trunk near the 
ground that it was deemed necessary to remove the cross. 
The diggers were surprised to find that it had never set 
more than a foot into the sand. This shows the greatness 
of the miracle. 

The padre had been assigned to the parish of Chila, a 
great indian town, near Tehuacan. Early the next morn- 
ing he left for his new home. 

***** 

Not only did the padre, while in Oaxaca, urge us to call 
upon him in his new parish; after he was settled, he re- 
newed his invitation. So we started for Chila. We had 
been in the tierra caliente, at Cordoba. From there we 
went by rail to Esperanza, from which uninteresting town 
we took a street-car line, forty-two miles long, to Tehuacan. 
This saved us time, distance, and money, and gave us a 
brand-new experience. There were three coaches on our 
train, first-, second-, and third-class. When buying tickets 
we struck acquaintance with a S)Tian peddler. Three of 
these were travelling together; one of them spoke a little 
English, being proficient in profanity. He likes the United 
States, per se, and does not like Mexico; but he says the 
latter is the better for trade. 'Tn the United States, you sell 
maybe fifteen, twenty- five, fifty cents a day; here ten, fif- 
teen, twenty-five dollars." The trip lasted three hours and 
involved three changes of mules at stations, where we found 
all the excitement and bustle of a true railroad station. 

The country was, at first, rolling, with a sparse growth 
of yuccas, many of which were exceptionally large and fine. 
On the hills were occasional haciendas. This broken dis- 



8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

trict was succeeded by a genuine desert, covered with fine 
dust, which rose, as we rode, in suffocating clouds. Here 
the valley began to close in upon us and its slopes were 
sprinkled with great cushion cactuses in strange and gro- 
tesque forms. After this desert gorge, we came out into 
a more open and more fertile district extending to Tehua- 
can. Even this, however, was dry and sunburned. 

Our party numbered four. We had written and tele- 
graphed to the padre and expected that he, or Ernst, 
would meet us in Tehuacan. Neither was there. No one 
seemed to know just how far it was to Chila. Replies to 
our inquiries ranged from five to ten leagues.* Looking 
for some mode of conveyance, we refused a coach, offered 
at fifteen pesos, as the price seemed high. Hunting horses, 
we found four, which with a foot mozo to bring them back, 
would cost twenty pesos. Telling the owner that we were 
not buying horses, but merely renting, we returned to the 
proprietor of the coach and stated that we would take it, 
though his price was high, and that he should send it with- 
out delay to the railroad station, where our companions 
were waiting. Upon this the owner of the coach pretended 
that he had not understood that there were four of us 
(though we had plainly so informed him); his price was 
for two. If we were four, he must have forty pesos. A 
fair price here might be eight pesos for the coach, or four 
for horses. So we told the coach owner that we would 
walk to Chila, rather than submit to such extortion. This 
amused him greatly and he made some facetious observa- 
tions, which determined me to actually perform the trip on 
foot. Returning to the railroad station, where two of the 
party were waiting, I announced my intention of walking 
to Chila; as the way was long and the sand heavy and the 
padre's silence and non-appearance boded no great hospi- 

* The Mexican league is 2.7 miles. 



PRIESTLY ARCHiEOLOGY 



tality in welcome, I directed the rest to remain comfortably 
at Tehuacan until my return on the next day. Herman, 
however, refused the proposition; my scheme was danger- 
ous; for me to go alone, at night, over a strange road, to 
Chila was foolhardy; he should accompany me to protect 
me. Consenting that he should accompany, we began to 
seek a mozo, as guide to Chila. With difficulty, and some 
loss of time, one was found who would undertake the busi- 
ness for two pesos. In vain a Jew peddler standing by and 
the station agent remonstrated with the man; two pesos 
was a full week's wages; it was ridiculous to demand such 
a price for guiding two foot travellers to Chila. He ad- 
mitted that two pesos might be a week's wages; but he did 
not have to go to Chila and if we wanted him to do so we 
must pay his price. We capitulated, the station agent 
loaned us a revolver, we left our friends behind us and 
started on our journey. It was now dark. In a mysterious 
voice, our guide said we must go first to his house; 
there he secured his serape and a heavy club. As we left 
his house he feared we must be hungry and indicated a 
bread-shop; we purchased and all three ate as we walked; 
a moment later he suggested that we would need cigarros 
of course, and a stock of these were added, at our expense. 
Then, at last, we came down to business. 

Plainly our guide did not enjoy his task. Shortly after 
we started, the moon rose and, from its shining full on the 
light sand, it was almost as bright as day. We were in 
single file, our guide, Herman, and I. At sight of every 
bush or indistinct object, our guide clutched his club and 
crossed himself, as he mumbled a prayer. When we met 
anyone, we kept strictly to our side of the road, they to 
theirs, and, in passing, barely exchanged a word of greeting. 
The timidity and terror of our guide increased as we ad- 
vanced, until I concluded to be prepared for any emer- 



lo IN INDIAN MEXICO 

gency and carried the revolver in my hand, instead of in my 
pocket. Mile after mile we trudged along through the 
heavy sand, into which we sunk so far that our low shoes 
repeatedly became filled and we had to stop to take them 
off and empty them. We passed through San Pablo, left 
the Hacienda of San Andres to one hand, and, finally, at 
io:io found ourselves in the great indian town of San Ga- 
briel de Chila. It was much larger than we had antici- 
pated and almost purely indian. We walked through a 
considerable portion of the town before we reached the 
plaza, the church, and the curato. Our journey had prob- 
ably been one of fifteen miles. All was dark at the curato; 
an indian was sleeping in the corridor, but he was a traveller 
and gave us no information on being awakened. At our 
third or fourth pounding upon the door, Ernst appeared 
at the window; on learning who we were he hastened to 
let us in. He reported trouble in the camp ; the padre had 
gone hastily to Oaxaca to see the archbishop ; our telegram 
had not been received; our letter came that morning. We 
found that things were packed ready for removal. A good 
supper was soon ready, but while it was being prepared we 
took a cool bath, by moonlight, in the trough bath-tub out 
in the patio. 

In the morning we heard the full story. Formerly there 
was here a priest, who devoted his whole life to this parish, 
growing old in its service; in his old age he was pensioned, 
with sixty pesos monthly from the parish receipts. The 
priest who succeeded him, coming something over three 
years ago, was a much younger man. During his three 
years of service, he was continually grumbling; the work 
was hard, his health was bad at Chila, the heat was intol- 
erable; he wished another parish. The archbishop finally 
took him at his word ; without warning he transferred him 
to another parish, and sent our friend, the archaeologist here, 



PRIESTLY ARCHAEOLOGY ii 

in his place. This did not suit the man relieved; Chila 
itself was much to his liking; what he really wanted was to 
be relieved from the support of his superannuated predeces- 
sor. No sooner was he transferred than he began to look 
with longing on his former charge and to make a vigorous 
effort to regain it. Accusations were hurried to Oaxaca; 
the new priest was pursuing agriculture as a means of 
profit; he had not paid the dues to the aged priest; he 
had himself admitted to parishioners that his object in 
coming to Chila was more to study antiquities and natural 
history than to preach the gospel. It is claimed that, 
immediately on receiving this communication, the arch- 
bishop sent a peremptory letter to the padre demanding 
an explanation; this letter, Ernst said, never was delivered, 
hence no explanation was sent. The prelate acted promptly ; 
orders were sent to our friend to give up the parish to the 
former priest, who appeared on the scene to receive his 
charge. Then, and then only, it is said the delayed letter 
came to light. The padre had left, at once, for Oaxaca 
and his archbishop. From there he sent messages by 
telegraph: "Pack up, and come to Tehuacan;" "Wait until 
you hear further." A third came the morning we were 
there: "Pack up; meet me at Tehuacan, ready to go to a 
new parish." 

It was really sad to look about the new home, to which 
he had come with such buoyant hopes and of which he had 
been so soon dispossessed. When he arrived, the place was 
neglected and filthy; two whole days were necessary to 
clean it. It had contained practically no furniture; he 
had made it look like a place in which to live. He had 
improved and beautified its surroundings. He had planted 
a little corn and set out some young banana trees; he had 
gathered many species of cactus from the neighboring hills 
and had built up a fine bed of the strange plants in his patio. 



12 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Passionately fond of pets, he had two magnificent grey- j 

hounds and a pug — all brought from Guatemala — a ) 

black coUie, doves, hens and turkeys on the place. And \ 

now, he was again without a home and his time, money, and \ 

labor were lost. ^ 

Ernst accompanied us to Tehuacan. We rented three i 

horses and a man on foot went with us to bring them back \ 

to the village. And for the whole we paid the regular price \ 

of eighty-seven centavos — twenty-five each for the animals, \ 

and twelve centavos for the man — something less than the \ 
twenty pesos demanded the day before at Tehuacan. 



CHAPTER II 

WE START FOR GUATEMALA 
(1896) 

THE evening we were at Mitla, Seiior Quiero came 
hurrying to our room and urged us to step out to the 
corridor before the house to see some Mixes. It was our 
first gUmpse of representatives of this little known mountain 
people. Some thirty of them, men and women, loaded with 
fruit, coffee, and charcoal, were on their way to the great 
fair and market, at Tlacolula. They had now stopped for 
the night and had piled their burdens against the wall. 
Wrapping themselves in their tattered and dirty blankets, 
they laid themselves down on the stone floor, so close 
together that they reminded me of sardines in a box. 
With a blazing splinter of fat pine for torch, we made our 
inspection. Their broad dark faces, wide flat noses, thick 
lips and projecting jaws, their coarse clothing, their filthi- 
ness, their harsh and guttural speech, profoundly impressed 
me and I resolved to penetrate into their country and see 
them in their homes, at the first opportunity. 

Our friend the padre never tired of telling how much 
more interesting Guatemala was than Mexico; he could 
not understand why any man of sense should waste his time 
in Mexico, a land so large that a dozen students could not 
begin to solve its problems, while Guatemala, full of inter- 
esting ruins and crowded with attractive Indians, was of 
such size that one man's hfetime could count for something. 
His tales of indian towns, life, dress, customs, kindled en- 
thusiasm; but it was only after thinking over the Mixes, 

13 



14 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

that I decided to make a journey to Guatemala. The 
padre, himself, could not accompany me, being a political 
refugee, but he had told me Ernst should go with me. 
After three months' consideration my plan was made. We 
would start from Oaxaca overland via the Mixes country; 
we would everywhere keep in the mountains; in Chiapas 
we would completely avoid the usual highway, hot and 
dusty, near the coast; in Guatemala itself, we would go 
by Nenton, Huehuetenango and Nibaj. This did not suit 
the padre: he had had in mind a journey all rail and 
steamer; and friends, long resident in Mexico, shook their 
heads and spoke of fajigues and dangers. But I was 
adamant; the Mixes tifew me; we would go overland, on 
horse, or not at all. 

When the Padre left Chila, he took a letter of recom- 
mendation from the Archbishop of Oaxaca to the Bishop 
of Vera Cruz at Jalapa. By him, the padre was located 
at Medellin, a few miles from Vera Cruz itself. Thither 
I journeyed to join Ernst and make the final preparations 
for the journey. Ernst met me at the station at 6:30 in 
the evening and we stayed the night in the hot, mosquito- 
tortured, plague-stricken city. Leaving at eight o'clock 
in the morning we were at Medellin in an hour. Our jour- 
ney was through low, swampy ground on which the chief 
growth was of palm. The padre, whom we had not seen 
since we parted at Oaxaca, met us at the station and took us 
at once to his house. The town is small, the population 
a miserable mixture of black, white, and Indian elements. 
Few of the couples living there have been legally married. 
The parish is one of the worst in the whole diocese. The 
bishop warned the padre that it was an undesirable field, 
but it was the only one then unoccupied. But the padre 
was working wonders and the church was then undergoing 
repairs and decorations. The actual curato was long ago 



JU 




The Padre's House; Medellix 




The Church; Medellin 



WE START FOR GUATEMALA 15 

seized by the government and is now used as a schoolhouse. 
The priest hved in a rented house close by the river bank. 
The house is a double one and the priest occupied but half 
of it ; those in the other half were hostile to him and he was 
anxious to rent the whole place. His neighbors, however, 
did not care to leave and threatened vengeance; they were 
behind a mass of accusations filed against him with the 
bishop. His friends rallied to his support, sent in a strong 
endorsement, and he remained. The padre had been 
industrious while here. Behind his house is the little river, 
with a bath-house built over it; crossing in a dugout canoe 
we found his garden flourishing, filled with fresh vegetables. 
The family of pets had grown; Baldur, Freia, Votan, 
Doxil — the dogs — were here as at Chila, but he also had 
fantail and capuchin pigeons, hens and chicks, ducks and 
geese, canary birds, and native birds in cages. Here also 
were archaeological relics, plants, beetles and birds for gather- 
ing. And here too, for the first time, I had the opportunity 
of examining his great collection of Ecuadorean humming- 
birds and a magnificent lot of Guatemalan quetzal skins, 
among them probably the finest ever collected. 

We left Medellin on January 8th; went by rail to Puebia, 
then to Oaxaca. Here we found our friend Doctor Hyde, 
of Silao, who was nursing Lucius Smith, in what proved 
to be a final illness. He aided us in finding animals and 
completing preparations for our journey. We secured a 
large bay horse for myself, a roan for Ernst, a little mule 
for baggage. For my own part, I dislike mules; Ernst and 
the doctor, however, were loud in their praise of such a 
beast; both asserted that a good mule should sell for double 
its cost on our arrival at Guatemala City. When, finally, 
after inspecting a variety of animals we found one lively, 
young one, the doctor was delighted. Taking me to one 
side, he informed me that such an opportunity was unlikely 



1 6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

to occur again. I 5nelded and the little mule was ours. 
We named the three animals Mixe, Zapotec, and Chontal, 
from three tribes through whose country we expected to 
pass. 

The doctor's helpfulness was not confined to advice 
regarding mules. He insisted upon our buying various 
supplies, such as boxes of sardines, sago, coffee, etc., the 
utility of which appeared neither at the time nor later. 
Also at his suggestion a quart of whiskey was purchased 
and carefully divided into two flasks, one for each saddlebag. 
Most useful of all the doctor's suggestions, and one for 
which we had reason many times to thank him, was the 
securing from the governor of a letter to all local author- 
ities in the state, directing them to supply us with the neces- 
sities of life, at just prices. 

We had hoped to start from Oaxaca in the early morning, 
but it was well on in the afternoon before all arrangements 
were completed. The doctor and his Mexican friend rode 
with us to Tule to see us well started. It was out over the 
old road to Mitla. The afternoon was hot, dust was deep, 
and a heavy wind blew it up into our faces in clouds. The 
sun was already setting when we rode into Santa Maria 
Tule, and we went at once to see the famous cypress tree, 
which no one in the party, save myself, had seen. It seems 
now to be a single tree, but was perhaps, originally, three; 
at present it displays a single, vast trunk, buttressed with 
heavy irregular projecting columns. So irregular is this 
enormous mass that no two persons taking its girth exactly 
agree. We measured it four feet above the ground and 
made the circumference one hundred and sixty feet. The 
mass of delicate green foliage above was compact, vigorous, 
and beautiful. Many years ago Humboldt cut a rectan- 
gular piece of bark from the old trunk and on the smooth 
surface thus exposed carved an inscription with his name. 



WE START FOR GUATEMALA 17 

Bark has since grown over the sides and corners of this 
tablet, but much of the inscription may still be read. Since 
Humboldt's visit many lesser men have gashed the old tree 
to leave their mark. 

As it was now darkening we hurried to the meson of the 
village. The old lady in charge received us with suspicion; 
she could not feed us and refused to receive us into the house 
for the night; she would permit us to sleep outside, in the 
corridor — which we might have done without asking per- 
mission. At this moment, the doctor's friend remembered 
that he knew a man here and went out to reconnoitre; he 
soon returned and led us to his friend's house, where we 
were well received. A supper of eggs, tortillas, and choco- 
late was soon served. Before we had finished the moon 
had risen and by its light the doctor and his friend started 
on their return to town. We slept on beds, made of boards 
laid upon sawhorses, in a grain storeroom, where rats were 
running around all night long. 

The next day, we were again at Mitla. It was a festival 
day, that of the Conversion of St. Paul the Apostle. In the 
evening there were rockets, the band played, and a company 
of drummers and chirimiya blowers went through the town. 
Sefior Quiero had fires of blazing pine knots at the door. 
When the procession passed we noted its elements. In 
front was the band of ten boys ; men with curious standards 
mounted on poles followed. The first of these standards 
was a figure, in strips of white and pink tissue paper, of a 
long-legged, long-necked, long-billed bird, perhaps a heron; 
next stars of colored paper, with lights inside; then were 
large globes, also illuminated, three of white paper and 
three in the national colors — red, white, and green. Grand- 
est of all, however, was a globular banner of cloth on which 
was painted a startling picture of the saint's conversion. 
All of these were carried high in the air and kept rotating. 



i8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Behind the standard bearers came a drummer and the 
player on the shrill pipe or pito — chirimiya. The procession 
stopped at Seiior Quiero's tienda, and the old man opened 
both his heart and his bottles; spirits flowed freely to all 
who could crowd into the little shop and bottles and packs 
of cigarros were sent out to the standard-bearers. As a 
result we were given a vigorous explosion of rockets, and 
several pieces by the band, the drummer, and the pitero. 

Beyond Mitla the valley narrows and the road rises onto 
a gently sloping terrace; when it strikes the mountains it 
soon becomes a bridle-path zigzagging up the cliffside. As 
we mounted by it, the valley behind expanded magnifi- 
cently under our view. We passed through a belt of little 
oak trees, the foliage of which was purple-red, like the 
autumnal coloring of our own forests. Higher up we 
reached the pine timber. As soon as we reached the summit, 
the lovely valley view was lost and we plunged downward, 
even more abruptly than we had mounted, along the side 
of a rapidly deepening gorge. At the very mouth of this, 
on a pretty terrace, we came abruptly on the little town of 
San Lorenzo with palm-thatched huts of brush or cane and 
well grown hedges of organo cactus. Here we ate tortillas 
and fried-eggs with chili. Immediately on setting out from 
here we rode over hills, the rock of which was deeply stained 
with rust and streaked with veins of quartz, up to a crest of 
limestone covered with a crust of stalagmite. 

The road up to this summit was not good, but that down 
the other side was had. The irregular, great blocks of lime- 
stone, covered with the smooth, dry, slippery coating, 
caused constant stumbling to our poor animals. From 
this valley we rose onto a yet grander range. Here we had 
our first Mixe experience. At the very summit, where the 
road became for a little time level, before plunging down 
into the profound valley beyond, we met two Indians, 




The Start from Oaxaca 




The Celebration at Mitla 



WE START FOR GUATEMALA 19 

plainly Mixes. Both were bareheaded, and both wore 
the usual dirty garments — a cotton shirt over a pair of 
cotton trousers, the legs of which were rolled up to the knees 
or higher. The younger of the men bore a double load, 
as he had relieved his companion. The old man's face was 
scratched and torn, his hands were smeared with blood 
and blood stained his shirt. We cried an ''adios'^ and the 
old man kissed my hand, while the younger, pointing to his 
friend said ''Sangre, Senor, sangre" (Blood, sir, blood.) 
Vigorously they told the story of the old man's misfortune, 
but in incomprehensible Spanish. While they spoke three 
others like them, each bent under his burden came up onto 
the ridge. These kissed my hand and then, excitedly point- 
ing to the old man, all talking at once, tried to tell his story. 
Having expressed our sympathy, we left the five looking 
after us, the old man, with his torn and bleeding face, being 
well in the foreground. 

Down in the valley, across a little stream, we struck 
into a pleasant meadow road leading to the Hacienda of 
San Bartolo. Suddenly, before us, in the road, we saw a 
man lying. We thought he was dead. He was a young 
man, an Indian in the usual dress, apparently a Zapotec. 
His face was bloody and his shirt was soaked in front with 
blood, which had trickled down upon the ground forming 
a pool in which he lay. We could see no deep wound, but, 
as he lay upon his side, there may have been such. Near 
him in the road there lay a knife, the blade covered with 
blood. The man lay perfectly still, but we fancied we could 
see a slight movement of the chest. In Mexico, it is best 
not to investigate too closely, because the last to touch a 
murdered man may be held responsible for his death. So 
we hurried on toward the hacienda but, before reaching it, 
met two girls about nineteen years of age and a little lad, 
all Zapotecs. We told them what we had seen and bade 



20 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

them notify the authorities. One of the girls cried, "6'i, 
Senor, es mi hermano^^ ("Yes, sir, it is my brother"), and 
they ran down the road. As for us, we hurried onward, 
without stopping at the hacienda, in order not to be de- 
layed or held as witnesses. 

There is no love between the Zapotecs and Mixes. 
We never learned the actual story, but imagined it some- 
what as follows. The old Mixe, carrying his burden, had 
probably encountered the young Zapotec and had words 
with him. Probably there had been blows, and the old 
man was having the worst of it when his companions came 
along and turned the tide of battle. 

The road, after passing the hacienda, ascended almost 
constantly for many miles. We passed clumps of yuccas. 
As we mounted we faced a strong and cutting wind, and 
were glad when any turn in the road gave us a moment's 
relief. The final ascent was sharp and difficult, up a hill of 
red or purple slate, which splintered into bits that were both 
slippery and sharp to the feet of our poor animals. Just 
as the sun was setting and dusk fell, we reached the miser- 
able pueblo of Santa Maria Albarradas. It was situated 
on a terrace or shelf, and its little houses were made of red 
or purple adobe bricks, and thatched with grass. Little 
garden patches and groups of cultivated trees surrounded 
the houses. The church was little larger than the dwellings, 
and was constructed of the same clay, thatched with the 
same grass. Near it was the town-house. We summoned 
the presidente, and while we waited for him, the men, 
women, and children of the town thronged around us and 
watched our every movement, commenting the while on 
our actions and words. When the presidente came, 
we made known our wants and soon had supper for our- 
selves, food for our animals, a shelter for the night, and a 
mozo as guide for the morrow. The town-house was put 



WE START FOR GUATEMALA 21 

at our disposition ; it was sadly in need of repairs, and con- 
sisted of two rooms, one larger than the other. In the 
larger room there was a long and heavy table, a bench or 
two, and some wooden chairs. We slept upon the ground, 
and long before we rolled ourselves up in our blankets the 
wind was blowing squarely from the north. The sky was 
half covered with a heavy black cloud ; as the night advanced, 
it became colder and colder, the wind cutting like a knife, 
and while we shivered in our blankets, it seemed as if we 
had been born to freeze there in the tropics. 



CHAPTER III 

THE LAND OF THE MIXES 
(1896) 

SANTA MARIA was the last Zapotec town; we were 
on the border of the country of the Mixes. Start- 
ing at seven next morning, we followed a dizzy trail 
up the mountain side to the summit. Beyond that the 
road went down and up many a slope. A norther was on; 
cold wind swept over the crest, penetrating and piercing; 
cloud masses hung upon the higher summits; and now and 
again sheets of fine, thin mist were swept down upon us 
by the wind; this mist was too thin to darken the air, but 
on the surface of the driving sheets rainbows floated. The 
ridge, which for a time we followed, was covered with a thick- 
et of purple-leaved oaks, which were completely overgrown 
with bromelias and other air-plants. From here, we 
passed into a mountain country that beggars description. 
I know and love the Carolina mountains — their graceful 
forms, their sparkling streams and springs, the lovely 
sky stretched above them; but the millionaires are wel- 
come to their "land of the sky"; we have our land of the 
Mixes, and to it they will never come. The mountains 
here are like those of Carolina, but far grander and bolder; 
here the sky is more amply extended. There, the slopes 
are clad with rhododendrons and azaleas, with the flower- 
ing shrub, with strawberries gleaming amid grass; here 
we have rhododendrons also, in clusters that scent the air 
with the odor of cloves, and display sheets of pink and 
purple bloom; here we have magnificent tree-ferns, with 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 2-? 

trunks that rise twenty feet into the air and unroll from 
their summits fronds ten feet in length ; fifty kinds of deli- 
cate terrestrial ferns display themselves in a single morning 
ride; here are palms with graceful foliage; here are or- 
chids stretching forth sprays — three or four feet long — 
toward the hand for plucking; here are pine-trees cover 
ing slopes with fragrant fallen needles. A striking fea- 
ture is the different flora on the different slopes of a single 
ridge. Here, too, are bubbling springs, purling brooks, 
dashing cascades, the equals of any in the world. And 
hither the tourist, with his destroying touch, will never 
come. 

We had thought to find our wild Mixes living in mis- 
erable huts among the rocks, dressed in scanty native 
garb, leading half wild lives. We found good clearings 
on the hillside; fair fields of maize and peas, gourds and 
calabashes; cattle grazed in the meadows; fowls and 
turkeys were kept; the homes were log-houses, substan- 
tially built, in good condition, in neat enclosures; men and 
women, the latter in European dress, were busied with the 
duties of their little farms. Clearing after clearing in the 
forest told the same story of industry, thrift, and moderate 
comfort. 

After more than five hours of hard travel we reached the 
Mixe town of Ayutla, and rode at once to the ciirato. The 
priest was not at home. It was market-day, and people 
were in town from all the country round. The men, sur- 
prised at sight of strangers, crowded about us; some gazed 
at us with angry glances, others eyed us with dark suspicion, 
some examined us with curious and even friendly interest. 
Many of them spoke little or no Spanish. Thronging about 
us they felt our clothing, touched our skins, saddles, bag- 
gage, and exhibited childish curiosity. The women at the 
curato spoke Spanish, of course; we told them we should 



24 ' IN INDIAN MEXICO 

stay there for a day or two, and sent out for the presidente. 
On his coming, we explained to him our business and asked 
leave to occupy the curato in the absence of the priest. 

Ayutla is situated on a high terrace, before which opens 
a lovely valley and behind which rises a fine mountain slope. 
The village church, while large, is roofless; the town-house 
lies below the village, and by it are two jails for men and 
women. The houses of the village are small, rectangular 
structures of a red-brown-ochre adobe brick; the roofs slope 
from in front backward, and are covered with red tiles — 
they project in front so as to cover a little space before the 
house. 

By evening most of the Indians in the town were drunk. 
At sunset a miserable procession started from the church, 
passed through the village, and then returned to the church ; 
composed mostly of women, it was preceded by a band of 
music and the men who carried the santito. Later, we heard 
most disconsolate strains, and, on examination, found four 
musicians playing in front of the old church ; three of them 
had curious, extremely long, old-fashioned horns of brass, 
while the fourth had a drum or tambour. The tambour was 
continuously played, while the other instruments were alter- 
nated in the most curious fashion. The music was strange 
and wierd, unlike any that we had ever heard before. How- 
ever, we became thoroughly familiar with it before we 
had traversed the whole Mixe country, as we heard it twice 
daily, at sunrise and after sunset. It was the music of the 
Candelaria, played during the nine days preceding Feb- 
ruary 2d. As we sat listening to the music the presidente 
of the town appeared. His Spanish, at no time adequate, 
was now at its worst, as he was sadly intoxicated. We 
tried to carry on a conversation with him, but soon seeing 
that naught but disaster could be expected, if we continued, 
we discreetly withdrew to our room. 




A Street in San Lorenzo 




Ayutla 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 2^ 

There we found the 'fiscal^ and I have rarely seen so 
drunk an official. When drunk, he is violent and abusive, 
and it was plain that the women at the curato were afraid 
of him. More than one hundred and fifty years ago Padre 
Quintana, who was the mission priest at Juquila, translated 
the Doctrina into Mixe and wrote a Gramatica of the lan- 
guage, both of which were then printed. We wished to 
secure copies of these old and rare books, and asked the 
fiscal if there were any here. He promptly replied that he 
had one at his house, and invited us to go there with him 
to see it. We at once started, and on our way had to pass 
the drunken presidente and the musicians. As we drew 
near them the presidente, with drunken dignity, rose and 
said : " Where are you going, Seiiores ? " The ^scal was for 
going directly onward without giving answer; we hesitated 
and began a reply. Our delay was fatal; staggering up to 
us, his Honor said: **I shall not permit you to go; this man 
is drunk; he will be dangerous. I am responsible for your 
safety." The f,scal, standing at a little distance, cried: 
"Seiiores! shall we go?" We started toward him; the 
presidente interfered: *'No, Seiiores, you shall not go 
to-night; the man is drunk; return to your house." "Fa- 
monos,^' (Let us go) hiccoughed the fiscal. " Manana,'' 
(to-morrow) hiccoughed the presidente. The fiscal 
stormed; the presidente threatened him with jail, ordered 
him home, and with a body-guard for our protection led 
us to our room. Scarcely able to totter, the presidente 
assured us that drunken men were dangerous and ought 
not to be trusted ; at the same time he produced his bottle 
and offered us a drop to warm us. It required tact and time 
to get rid of him and his corps of protectors. Early the 
next morning both of these worthy officials, presidente and 
fiscal, still drunk, called upon us with the book — a Doc- 
trina of 1729. With the presidente were two stalwart fel- 



^6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

lows, intended, as he whispered to us audibly, to handle 
the fiscal in case he became dangerous. The audience 
ended, and the party dismissed, the presidente stood in the 
road until the fiscal had started for home, when he left 
for the town-house. The fiscaVs home-going, however, 
was mere pretense. No sooner was the presidente gone 
than he came staggering into the patio of the curato. The 
women ran into our room, in terror: "The fiscal comes; 
bar the door; do not let him in." A moment later a feeble 
rap at the door, a call and a mournful request for admission; 
the barricaded door gave no encouragement. At intervals 
through the morning there came the flying maids: "He 
comes! don't let him in." Again and again the barricade; 
again and again, the vain appeal for entrance. We left 
Ayutla at noon. We had scarcely well started when we 
heard some one calling behind us. Turning, we saw the 
fiscal, running unsteadily toward us. We waited; he came 
up out of breath. "Fa se i;a.? " (Now you are leaving?) 
"5i, senor,''^ (Yes, sir.) With a look of despair he removed 
his hat, and fumbling in its depths produced two cigarettes; 
presenting one to each of us, he waved his hand as we rode 
away and cried : " yl dios! seftores. ' ' 

For some distance our road led up a canon. Reaching 
its head, we gained the pass at two o'clock. A wonderful 
sight here presented itself. Above us was a brilliant blue sky 
— cloudless; every detail of the rock crest upon which 
we stood was clear. Forested to its summit, the ridge 
formed the half of a magnificent amphitheatre, whose slopes 
had been vertically furrowed at a hundred points by tor- 
rents; to the left a spur projected, the crest of which sloped 
gently downward, forming an enclosing wall upon that side. 
Before us, beyond the valley, was a boundary line of moun- 
tain masses, sharply outlined against the sky. Lower 
ridges, nearer to us, paralleled this distant rampart. The 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 27 

only apparent outlet from this valley was around the spur to 
our left. Looking down upon this magnificent valley, we 
saw it occupied by a sea of clouds, the level surface of which 
looked like a lake of water flecked here and there with white- 
caps. The higher hills within the valley rose like islands 
from the water; to the left a mighty river seemed to flow 
around the spur, out into a boundless sea of cloud beyond. 
The level surface of this lake, river, and sea of clouds was 
hundreds of feet below us. 

From this summit, our trail plunged downward into this 
sea of mists. When we reached its upper surface, which 
was plainly defined, little wisps of mist or cloud were 
streaming up along the furrowed channels of the mountain 
walls. As we entered the lake of cloud the sunlight became 
fainter, uprushes of cold mists struck us, gloom settled, 
denser and denser grew the fog, drops of condensed vapor 
dripped from the trees under which we passed. At the 
bottom of the valley, we could scarcely see a dozen yards 
in any direction. We were passing along meadows, like 
those of New England, with brakes, sunflowers, and huckle- 
berries; here and there were little fields of wheat or peas. 
The fog was too dense for us to know whether we lost fine 
scenery. We saw nothing of the little villages through 
which we passed. On and on we plunged along the trail, 
until it began an ascent of a ridge, almost like a knife-edge, 
with steep slopes on both sides. When we had reached the 
summit of this ridge, we found the trail level, through a 
growth of oak trees which were loaded with bromelias and 
orchids. Though still dim, the light had brightened as we 
rose to higher levels. Graceful ferns and sprays of terres- 
trial orchids overhung our trail at every cutting or slope. 
One spray, which I plucked as I rode under it, was more 
than a yard in length, and its curiously colored brown and 
yellow flowers were strangely like insects in form. At 



28 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

one level summit of our ridge, we came upon a little white- 
washed building of adobe, dome-topped, with no windows 
and but one little door. Pushing this open, I entered 
through a doorway so narrow that I had to remove my hat, 
and so low that I was forced to bend, and found myself in 
a little shrine with a cross and pictures of two or three saints, 
before which were plain vases filled with fresh flowers, the 
offerings of travelers. We added our spray of orchids 
before we resumed our journey. 

For three hours, during which no distant view had de- 
lighted our eyes, we had traveled in the mists; we had 
almost forgotten that the sun could shine. At the end of a 
long, narrow ridge, where it joined the greater mountain 
mass, we found a rest-house. Here the trail turned ab- 
ruptly onto the larger ridge, mounted sharply through a 
dugway, and then to our complete surprise emerged into 
the fair sunlight. The clear, blue sky was over us, and 
directly below us, at our horses' feet, was the flat top of the 
sea of clouds. A moment more and we rose to a point of 
view from which the grandest view of a lifetime burst upon 
our vision. Opposite, the evening sun was nearing the 
horizon, before and below us lay the valley; we were upon 
the very edge of a great mountain slope. To our right lay 
the cloud mass, which was all in movement, precipitating 
itself down the slope into the profound valley. It was a 
river of vapors, more than two miles, perhaps, in width, 
plunging, perhaps, two thousand feet into the abyss. 
Niagara, which I have often seen, is a pigmy cataract in 
comparison. The cloud mass tossed and heaved, whirled 
and poured in one enormous sheet over the precipice, break- 
ing into spray as it struck against projecting rock masses. 
Every movement of whirling and plunging water was there; 
the rapid above the fall, the plunge, the whirlpool, the wild 
rush of whirlpool rapids, all were there, but all silent, fear- 




m^" 




Cloud Cataract; Near Juquila 




Dancers ix the Danza de la Conquista; Juquila 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 29 

fully and impressively silent. We could have stood there 
gazing for hours, but night was coming and a stretch of 
unknown road still lay before us. At the other end of the 
valley, in the dusk of early evening, we saw a second catar- 
act pouring in. From both ends the cloud rivers were rush- 
ing in to fill the valley, along the edge of which we crept. 
And presently we plunged down again into the mists; 
night fell; our trail was barely visible, and we had to trust 
to our horses to find it; the air was cold and penetrating. 
Long after dark, we rode into Juquila. 

The cura had gone to bed; the meson had no room for 
us and no food for our horses; our case seemed desperate. 
We heard, however, noisy laughter and the loud voices of 
men drinking. So I begged Ernst to seek the presidente 
and tell him our needs while I looked after the animals. 
The official was at the tienda, drinking with his friends. 
Ernst made known our wishes, producing our letter from 
the governor. At this, the presidente became furious: 
"Who is this with orders from the governor? Let me kill 
him," and with that he drew his machete and made at 
Ernst. Some of his less-intoxicated friends restrained him, 
and Ernst, concluding that the moment was not propitious, 
returned to me. After other fruitless efforts to get food 
for ourselves and animals we resigned ourselves to our fate, 
and lay down upon the stone floor of the corridor outside the 
meson, with a crowd of sleeping Indians as companions. 

Very early in the morning, all the town officials, except 
the presidente, came to apologize for the occurrence of the 
night. They announced that the presidente, realizing 
what he had done, had taken to the mountains, and asked 
what they could do for us. We ordered fodder for our hun- 
gry beasts, food for ourselves, and a place of shelter. The 
town-house was offered to us, and we were moved into 
those quarters with due ceremony. 



30 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Although we stayed several days at Juquila, the presi- 
dente did not return, during our presence, to resume his 
duties of office. We were, however, well treated. The 
cura aided us with advice, information, and helpers. 
While we were in the village the danza de la Conquista took 
place. It is a popular play, with much dancing and music, 
and little action or dialogue, which celebrates the Con- 
quest of Mexico by Cortez. It was rendered in the shade 
of a great tree near the church. In the first act, nine men 
and two girls took part ; in the second act, there were many 
others. The nine men and two girls represented Indians; 
they wore crowns with plumes of snow-white down; in 
their hands they carried a rattle, made from the fruit of a 
tree and a wand of white down, with which they beat time. 
One man, representing Montezuma, had a crown of bril- 
liantly colored plumes. The other eight men were war- 
riors; the two girls were '' Malinches.^^ The first act con- 
sisted of a series of dances, including a very pretty maypole 
dance. The play lasted about three hours, and represented 
the life of the Indians before the Conquest — Montezuma in 
his court, with the amusements celebrated for his enter- 
tainment. Hearing of the arrival of the Spaniards, he is 
filled with sad forebodings, which the amusements fail to 
dispel. In the second act, Hernando Cortes appears, with 
soldiers. While the costumes of the Indians were gay, and 
more or less attractive, those of these European warriors 
were ludicruously mongrel and unbecoming. The new- 
comers demanded that Montezuma acknowledge the 
authority of the King of Spain and the cross of Christ. 
Conversations, demands, replies, tableaus, sword-dances, 
etc., ensued. Finally, Montezuma and his warriors yielded, 
and kissed the crucifix. 

While this drama was being enacted under the shade- 
tree, another amusement, in connection with the fiesta of 




a 



■; 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 31 

San Marcos^ was in progress in front of the church. The 
musicians with the long horns made doleful music ; a dozen 
gayly-costumed dancers took part. They wore dark 
trousers slitted up the sides; bright kerchiefs, with the 
point hanging down in front, were tied about the waists; 
crowns of plumes were on the heads; red vests and ker- 
chiefs, crossed at the neck, completed the costume. One 
player, who seemed to be a leader, carried a tri-colored 
flag; another represented a man on horseback, by creeping 
into a frame of sticks, covered with cloth, in the shape of 
a horse. They danced in the full sunlight for hours; 
their movements were varied and pretty, quite different, 
too, from the figures in the danza de la Conquista. Two 
outside characters played the clown. One of these was 
a little lad dressed in a garment representing a tiger-skin, 
while over his face he wore a heavy, old wooden mask, 
imitating an animal's head. The other was older, dressed 
in a leather suit, with a wooden mask like a vacant-looking 
human face. These two were very popular, and indulged 
in many acts that bordered on the obscene. We got no 
satisfactory explanation of this whole performance. The 
cura said that it represented the conflict between Christ 
and the Jews; this we greatly doubted. 

Mixe roads avoid no mountains, and usually go straight 
up one slope and down the other. The Mixe villages are 
set upon the very crests, or upon little terraces a few hun- 
dred feet below the crest, or the summit of some spur that 
juts out from the great mountain mass, of a long and nar- 
row ridge. The road from Juquila, by Ocotepec to Que- 
zaltepec was beautiful and typical. The ascent, just before 
Quezaltepec, was magnificent. We had a letter of intro- 
duction from the cura at Juquila to the schoolteacher at 
Quezaltepec, and therefore rode directly to the school. 
The four boys who were in attendance were promptly dis- 



32 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

missed and the maestro was at our disposition. He was a 
mestizo, and possessed the art of lying in a fine degree, h'ke 
so many of his kind. This man set us an excellent supper, 
having asked us beforehand what we would like. We 
replied that we would be glad to have fresh meat, if there 
was any to be had. He replied, "There is always fresh 
meat here; someone kills every day." It really appeared 
in the dinner, but, as we ate it, our host remarked — "Gen- 
tlemen, it is indeed lucky that you arrived here just now, 
because to-night we have fresh meat, and like enough a 
month will pass before anyone in town kills again," Our 
teacher friend fully appreciated his opportunity, and we 
paid a large price for our meal, with its fresh meat, our beds 
on the school benches, and the fodder supplied our horses. 
The next day being Saturday, the maestro offered to accom- 
pany us to Ixcuintepec, where his half-brother, the local 
teacher, would welcome our coming and arrange for our 
entertainment. 

Passing Camotlan, we entered a magnificent gorge, 
along one side of which we climbed, passing in front of 
lovely cascades and having magnificent outlooks. While 
we were on this trail, we encountered the maestro from 
Ixcuintepec, who was on his way to Quezaltepec to spend 
his holiday. A whispered word with his half-brother, 
our companion, quickly changed his plan, and he accom- 
panied us. Upon this trail we found our first swinging 
foot-bridges made of lianas, or vines, hanging from 
trees. These are, of course, only suitable for foot-trav- 
ellers, but are a great convenience, where streams are likely 
to be swollen. Two or three long and slender vines, laid 
side by side and lashed together, form the footway, which 
is swung from one tree to another; other lianas are stretched 
across as side rails, smaller vines being twined in between 
and around them to hold them in place; long vines, pend- 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 32 

ant from the high branches of the supporting trees, are fas- 
tened to the upper rails to steady and anchor these frail 
bridges, which swing and yield with every weight. 

Ixcuintepec is upon one of the most abrupt ridges of 
this whole district. We went first to the schoolhouse, where 
our animals were to be guarded in a little open space before 
it; then we walked over to the curato which was being 
prepared for us. We had ordered zacate (fodder) for our 
animals and had divided it suitably between them. We 
ate our own meal, took a turn around the town, and were 
about to go to our quarters for the night, when Ernst no- 
ticed that the fodder, for which we had paid an outrageous 
price, had completely disappeared from before the two 
horses, although the pile before the mule had diminished 
but little. No doubt the two school teachers could have 
explained this mysterious disappearance; we could not, 
however, tax them with theft, but we made so much fuss 
over the matter that the officials brought a new supply. 
While I went to our room to write up my notes, Ernst sat 
in the gathering darkness watching the animals, as they ate, 
to prevent further robbery. I was busily writing, listening 
now and then to the fierce gusts of a gale that was blowing 
without, when the door burst open and Ernst, greatly ex- 
cited, called me to follow, and we hastened to the place 
where our animals were tied. There we found that the 
great tree under which Chontal, the little mule, had been 
feeding, had been torn by the tempest and half of it had 
fallen upon the animal, bearing it to the ground. The 
crash had come without a moment's warning. Fortunately, 
the mule was unhurt, though it could not move until the 
branches which had crushed it to the earth had been cut 
away with axes. When we had released the beast and were 
retiring to our quarters, we saw a sight never to be forgotten. 
Looking down from our crest into the valley and across upon 



34 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the other ridges and mountains beyond, we saw that the 
camp-fires of charcoal-burners and wayfarers had been 
fanned by the winds and spread into the forest until a 
dozen great lines of blazing trees lit up the landscape in 
every direction. 

Our leaving Ixcuintepec in the early morning was not 
agreeable. The teachers were irritated over the affair of 
the zacate; the town authorities were dissatisfied with our 
refusal to pay for two lots of it. There was grumbling, and 
many dark looks followed us. We were rather glad to get 
away from the town without a serious outbreak. We were 
now on the road to the last of the Mixe towns we should 
visit, Coatlan. The road seemed endless, the ascent inter- 
minable; the town itself impressed us as exceptionally 
mean and squalid, and we stopped only long enough to eat 
a miserable dinner of eggs with chili and tortillas. The 
women here wore native dress. Several were clad as the 
Zapotec women from here to Tehuantepec, but a few were 
dressed in striking huipilis of native weaving, with em- 
broidered patterns, and had their black hair done up in 
great rings around their heads, bright strips of cloth or 
ribbon being intermingled in the braiding. Literally and 
figuratively .shaking the dust of the Mixe towns from our 
feet, we now descended into the Zapotec country. We were 
oppressed by a cramped, smothered feeling as we descended 
from the land of forested mountains and beautiful streams. 
At evening we reached San Miguel, the first Zapotec settle- 
ment, a little group of houses amid coffee plantings. 

At the first Indian house, we asked if we might have 
shelter for the night. The owner cordially answered, 
"Cow(7 no? senores," (Why not? sirs). He explained, 
however, that there was nought to eat. After eating else- 
where, we made our way back to our lodging-place, a typical 
Zapotec hut, a single room, with dirt-floor, walls of canes or 




Fiesta of San Marcos; Juquila 




Bridge of Vixes, Near Ixcuixtepec 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 35 

poles, and thatch of grass. The house contained a ham- 
mock and two beds of poles, comforts we had not known 
for days. I threw myself into the hammock; Ernst lay 
down upon one of the beds; the man and woman, squatting, 
were husking corn for our horses; a little girl was feeding 
a fire of pine splints, built upon the floor, which served for 
light. As they worked and we rested the man asked that 
question which ever seems of supreme importance to Mexi- 
can Indians, ''Como se llama Ud. senor?'' (What is your 
name, sir?). "Ernst, " replied our spokesman, to whom the 
question was addressed. "F el otro?^' (And the other?), 
pointing to me. I replied for myself, ^' Federico.^^ The 
man seemed not to catch the word and badly repeated it 
after me. ''No, no," said the much quicker woman, 
''Federicol Federico! si, senor, nosotros tenemos un Feder- 
ico, tamhien," (Yes, sir, and we have a Frederick, also). 
"Ah, and where is he?" "He will come, sir; we have 
four boys, Luca and Pedrito, Castolo and Federico; Fed- 
erico is the baby; the little girl, here, is between him and 
Castolo; they are working in the cofifee-field, but they will 
soon be here." At nine o'clock the little fellows appeared. 
They lined up in the order of age, placed their hands behind 
them, and waited to be addressed. Castolo, then about 
ten years of age, most pleased me, and I asked him, among 
other things, whether he could read and write. His father 
answered for him, that he could not read or write; that 
the opportunities were not good; but that he believed Cas- 
tolo could learn, that he had a good mind. At this point 
the mother spoke to her husband in Zapotec. Some argu- 
ment ensued, in which at last she triumphed. Turning 
to me, the man said: "She says you may have Castolo; 
you may take him to your country and there he can learn 
to read and write and whatever else you wish." It was not 
altogether easy to refuse this gift ; finally I replied that we 



36 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

had a long journey ahead and that Castolo would weary 
^on the road; that he had better wait until some later time. 

It was now time for the family to dispose of itself for the 
night. I was already in the hammock and Ernst had one 
of the pole-beds; the man, his wife, and little Federico 
occupied the other bed; the little girl and the three older 
boys climbed, by a notched log, up to a loft constructed of 
poles or canes on which they laid themselves down. After 
all were located, the woman barred the door and we were 
soon asleep. 

All rose early. Not only did we wish to make an early 
start, but the boys, too, were to make a journey. Our 
friends had agreed to make us some coffee and tortillas. 
We had made our preparations for starting and were waiting 
for our breakfast, when a shriveled and wrinkled old woman 
tottered up to beg the strangers to visit her sick son and 
prescribe some remedio. On our consenting to go with her, 
she caught up a stick of fat pine, lighted it in the fire, and 
with this blazing torch to light the way, preceded us to her 
house. Her son had been a strong and robust young man, 
but four months of lying upon his pole- bed had sadly reduced 
him. He was thin and pale, coughed sadly, and suffered 
with fever, chills, and dreadful headaches. He was taking 
medicines brought from Tehuantepec, but these seemed to 
have no effect and we were begged to suggest treatment. 
We advised continuance of the remedy she had been using, 
but also prescribed hot water taken in the morning and at 
night, hot water applications for the headaches, quinine 
for the chills and fever, and a digestive for the stomach 
trouble, and furnished these remedies from our own sup- 
plies. Having lighted us back to our lodging-place the old 
lady asked our charge. When we refused to receive pay- 
ment from the poor creature, we noted an increased 
activity on the part of our host and hostess; a bit of cheese 



THE LAND OF THE MIXES 37 

was promptly found and added to the waiting coffee and 
tortillas, and when we called for our own reckoning, we 
received the hearty response — '' Nada, senor, nada;^^ 
(nothing, sir, nothing) ''and when you come this way again, 
come straight to us, our door is always open to you." 

We were now ready and found that the three boys, 
Luca, Pedrito, and Castolo, were waiting to accompany us 
as far as our roads were the same. They were to go on 
foot, five leagues, into the mountains to bring back some 
mules from a camp; they expected to reach their destina- 
tion that day, to sleep on the mountain, and to bring in the 
animals the next day. The little fellows, from thirteen to 
nine or ten years old, seemed to find nothing extraordinary 
in their undertaking; each carried his little carrying-net, 
with food, drinking-gourd, and an extra garment for the 
chilly night, upon his back; Pedrito buckled to his belt 
the great machete, which men here regularly carry for 
clearing the path, cutting firewood, or protection against 
animals. They were very happy at accompanying us for 
a distance. We soon rose from the low, malarial, coffee 
pncas onto a fine mountain, which was the last of its kind 
that we saw for many days; it was like the mountains of 
the Mixes, with its abundant vegetation of ferns, begonias, 
and trees loaded with bromelias and orchids. Our body- 
guard kept up with us bravely until we had made one-half 
of the ascent, where they fell behind and we saw them no 
more. Reaching the summit, we saw before us a distant 
line of blue, interrupted here and there by some hill or 
mountain, — the great Pacific. From here on, the beauty 
of the road disappeared. We descended and then mounted 
along dry slopes to Santiago Guevea, then hot and dusty. 
Our friends of San Miguel really live in Guevea and are at 
San Miguel only when the coffee needs attention. From 
Guevea the road was hard and dry and dusty to Santa 



38 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Maria. The mountain mass over which we passed was 
a peak, the summit of which was covered with masses of 
chalcedony of brilliant colors, which broke into innumer- 
able splinters, which were lovely to see but hard upon the 
feet of horses; the surface of this part also gave out a glare 
or reflection that was almost intolerable. We descended 
over granite which presented typical spheroidal weathering. 
We went onward, up and down many little hills, reaching 
Santa Maria at noonday. The village sweltered; the air 
scorched and blistered; there was no sign of life, save a few 
naked children playing in the shade or rolling upon the hot 
sand. It was so hot and dusty that we hated to resume our 
journey and tarried so long that we had to ride after night- 
fall before we reached the rancho of Los Cocos, where we 
lay in the corridor and all night long heard the grinding of 
sugar-cane at the mill close by. 

W^e had just such another hard, hot, and dusty ride the 
next day, on through Auyuga and Tlacotepec, where we 
stopped for noon, until Tehuantepec, where we arrived at 
evening. 



CHAPTER IV 

THROUGH CHIAPAS 
(1896) 

T^EHUANTEPEC is meanly built; it is hot and dusty, 
-*- and the almost constant winds drive the dust in clouds 
through the streets. But its picturesque market is a re- 
deeming feature. Every morning it is crowded and pre- 
sents a brilliant and lively spectacle. All the trade is 
in the hands of women, and the Tehuantepec women have 
the reputation of being the handsomest in the world. They 
are large, finely-built, and in their movements exhibit an 
indescribable freedom and grace. Their natural attrac- 
tions are set off by a characteristic and becoming costume. 
The huipilili is a little sleeveless waist, loose at the neck and 
arms, and so short that it rarely reaches to the waist-line, 
to which, of course, it is supposed to extend; it is of bright 
cotton — red, brown, purple, with stripes or spots of white 
— and is stitched at the neck with yellow silk. The ena- 
gua, or skirt, is a strip of heavy cotton cloth, less than a 
yard wide, which is simply wrapped around the figure and 
hangs from the waist, being held in place by a brightly 
colored belt or girdle. The enagua is usually a rich red, 
but it is sometimes a fiiie violet purple. It reaches but 
little below the knees. It generally fails to meet the hui- 
pUili above, so that a broader or narrower band of fine, dark 
brown separates the two garments. Nothing is worn on 
the feet, which are exposed, as are also the finely shaped 
and beautifully developed arms. But the most striking 
article in the Tehuantepec woman's costume is her huipil, 

39 



40 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

which travellers usually describe as a head-dress, although 
it is nothing of the kind. It is in reality a waist-garment 
with sleeves. It is made of lace or cotton, or linen, and is 
bordered at the neck, the sleeves, and the lower margin 
with broad ruffs of pleated lace. Only at church or on some 
important or ceremonial occasion is the huipil worn as it 
was meant to be. Usually at church the wearer draws 
the garment over her upper body, but does not put her 
arms into the sleeves, nor her head through the neck-open- 
ing, simiply fitting her face into this in such a way that it 
appears to be framed in a broad, oval, well-starched border 
of pleated lace. Usually, however, the garment is not even 
worn in this manner, but is turned upside down and care- 
lessly hung upon the head so that the broad lower fringe of 
lace falls back upon the hair, while the upper part of the 
garment, with the sleeves, the collar, and cuff-ruffs, hangs 
down upon the back. The whole effect is that of a fine 
crest rising from the head, coursing down the back, and 
moving with the breeze as the woman walks. These 
Zapotec women are fond of decoration, but particularly 
prize gold coins. In the past, when Tehuantepec was 
more important than now, it was no uncommon thing to 
see a woman in this market with several hundred dollars in 
gold coins hanging to her neck chain. In these later days 
of little trade and harder times, these once prized decora- 
tions have been spent, and it is rare to see any woman 
wearing more than twenty to fifty dollars as display. 

Resuming our journey, we struck out upon the high- 
way which parallels the coast. Almost immediately, the 
road changed from a fair country cart-road to a road remark- 
able at once for its straightness, breadth and levelness. 
It was, however, dreadfully hot and dusty, and was 
bordered on both sides with a tiresome and monotonous 
growth of low, thorn-bearing trees, with occasional clumps 




Ready for Chukcu; Tehuantepec 




The Wide Road; Tehuantepkc to Juchitan 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 41 



of palms. We ate dinner at Juchitan, in a little eating- 
house conducted by a Japanese! A little beyond that im- 
portant indian centre, we saw a puma pace forth from 
the thicket; with indescribably graceful and slow tread it 
crossed the dusty road and disappeared in the thicket. 
In the morning we had startled flocks of parrots, which 
rose with harsh cries, hovered while we passed, and then 
resettled on the same trees where they had been before. 
In the evening we saw pairs of macaws flying high, and as 
they flew over our heads they looked like black crosses 
sharp against the evening sky. At evening we reached 
Guviiio, a dreadful town, in the population of which there 
seems to be a negro strain. We stopped with the presi- 
dente, in whose veins flowed Spanish, indian, and negro 
blood. In his one-roomed house besides ourselves there 
slept the owner, his wife, two daughters, one with a six- 
weeks baby, a son, and two young men — friends of the 
family. 

Turning north the next day, onto the Niltepec road, 
we wandered from our trail, losing five leagues of space 
and more than three hours of time. The country through 
which we passed was terribly dry; there were no running 
streams. We crossed the bed of one dried river after an- 
other — streaks of sand and pebbles. The people in the 
villages near these dried river-beds dug holes a foot or two 
deep into this sand and gravel and thus got water. At 
the place where we camped for the night, Suspiro Ranch, 
a new house was being palm-thatched. All the men and 
boys of the neighborhood were helping; the labor was care- 
fully divided; some were bringing in great bundles of the 
palm leaves; others pitched these up to the thatchers, 
who were skilfully fitting them under and over the poles of 
the roof framework and then beating them firmly home. 
Many of the helpers had come considerable distances and 



42 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

spent the night, so that we shared our room with quite a 
dozen men and boys, while the women and children slept 
in another house. 

Passing through Zanatepec, we stopped for Sunday at 
Tanatepec. Here we found ourselves again upon the low- 
coast road. It was, however, our last point of low altitude, 
as from there we struck inland over a higher, cooler, and 
more interesting mountain road. At Zanatepec we first 
saw the marimba played. This musical instrument, un- 
questionably African in name and origin, is hardly found 
north of Chiapas, but is extremely common through Central 
America. It consists of a wooden frame supporting keys 
made of wood and metal, each of which gives forth its own 
note when struck with small hammers. Below the keys of 
lowest tone are hung tubes, pipes, or gourds, as sounding 
boxes to increase the sound produced by striking the key. 
Usually four players perform at one time, each using two 
or more little hammers. The music is rapid and brilliant, 
somewhat resembling that of the piano. The instrument 
usually has some fanciful name, which is painted upon it. 
The one at Tanatepec was La Azteca (The Aztec Lady), 
while our next one was La reina de las flores (The queen 
of the flowers). At Zanatepec, La Azteca was an adver- 
tising part of a traveling circus. The troupe consisted of 
three men and three women, the latter of whom seemed to 
be mulattos. The men were ridiculously garbed and 
painted to represent wild Indians. The real, live indians, 
who followed these clowns in delighted crowds, enjoyed 
thrills of terror at their whoops, fierce glances, and wild 
antics, and assured us that these actors were, if not the real 
thing, at least wonderfully accurate impersonations of the 
natives of the Estados unidos (United States) — the land 
of the "Apaches." 

From Tanatepec we were in Chiapas, the southernmost 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 43 

state of the republic. We struck out over a fine mountain 
road, passable jor carts all the way to Tuxtla Gutierrez, the 
capital of the state. Our first ascent was over a magnifi- 
cent mountain mass of syenite, which at some places seemed 
to be as fine as our own Quincy stone. The road, with 
many short zigzags, made a remarkably abrupt ascent, and, 
having reached the crest, wound like a vast serpent along 
the summit. As we descended into the following valley, 
we encountered a beautiful deer, which stood in the middle 
of the road, eyeing us with curiosity, until we were almost 
upon it, when it dashed into the thicket and then stopped 
to again eye us. Upon attaining the second summit we 
were amid pines. All day we had had a wind in our faces, 
cold and so strong as to almost blow us from the narrow 
ridge, yet the sky was cloudless. Looking back from our 
summit, a magnificent view to the ocean was spread before 
us. Below us were the mountains over which we had 
come, then a valley broken with mountains of a lesser size; 
beyond, was the dry, coastal plain, and yet beyond it, the 
sea. The dark green pines, the blue sky, the brown hills, 
the gray plain, the stretch of blue-green waters, made a 
wonderful color combination. 

The next two days were most uninteresting. We were 
often reminded of the recent threat of war between Mexico 
and Guatemala, the disputed border-line between which 
we were now nearing. We met marching bands of soldiers 
who were returning to Juchitan. Officers were on horses, 
common soldiers on foot, pack-mules were laden with lug- 
gage, the women (accompanying their husbands) were 
weighed down with coffee-pots, bundles of clothes, and 
babies, all strapped on their backs together. They were 
a motley crew. At Jiquipilas a company was encamped 
in the plaza. Our mule, Chontal, took particular delight 
in running into such bands of marching soldiers as we en- 



44 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

countered, causing no end of trouble. On one occasion, 
as a group approached us, he ran forward at a lively pace 
into their midst and tangled himself up with a party of 
prisoners, — apparently soldiers in disgrace, — who, tied 
together with ropes, were under guard. As we rode up 
to capture him, I felt a hand at that coat pocket which con- 
tained our money-bag and, turning suddenly, found one of 
the guard trying to draw the bag of money from my 
pocket. I struck at him with my whip and he slunk away. 

The last day of travel before reaching Tuxtla Gutierrez, 
we passed one of the few pretty places on this dreary road, 
Agua Bendita. At this point the road makes a great curve, 
almost like a horseshoe; at the middle of this curve there 
rises to the right of the road a wall of limestone rock the 
plainly defined strata of which are thrown into a gentle 
anticlinal fold. The upper layers of this arch were covered 
with shrubs, clinging to its face, while the lower layers were 
tapestried with a curtain of delicate ferns, which hung 
down over the open arch below, under which the road 
passed. Water trickled through this limestone mass and 
dripped and collected in little basins, which had been exca- 
vated in the ledge close by the roadside. Some grateful 
passer had set up little crosses by the water pools, and they 
were gay that day with purple orchids plucked from a near- 
by tree. In this tree, amid the brilliant clumps of yet 
unplucked blossoms of the orchids, were a number of 
toucans with their enormous, brightly colored bills — the 
picas de canoa (canoe beaks) of the people. 

Tuxtla Gutierrez is a tawn of some thousands popula- 
tion, with a central plaza where the local band plays almost 
every evening, and a market place of exceptional interest. 
Here, as nowhere else, we saw crowds of the purest Indians 
in native dress. Chiapas is the home of at least thirteen 
tribes, each with its own language. Among the most 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 45 

interesting indians we saw in the market were the Tzotzils, 
from Chamula, who wore heavy, black woolen garments. 
The indians of the town and its immediate vicinity are Zoques. 

Few Mexican governors possess the breadth of view 
and the intelligent enterprise of Governor Leon, whom 
we encountered here. A man of middle age, of fair stature 
though slight in build, with dark complexion, iron-gray 
hair, beard and whiskers carefully trimmed after the French 
fashion, his appearance creates a favorable impression. 
He did everything in his power for our comfort and assist- 
ance, and supplied us with letters to the jejes politicos of 
the districts through which we were to pass. We con- 
gratulated him upon the cart-road over which wc had come 
from Zanatepec, an important public work for this part of 
the world; he told us he began it three years ago with a 
force of but nine men; that it would be extended to San 
Cristobal and San Bartolome; that he was no engineer, 
but that he could tell quite well when a road was passable 
for a cart. We found him greatly interested in a congress 
which he had called of persons interested in labor questions. 
Among the questions which he hoped to see considered 
was the abolition of the system of peonage, which still 
exists in full development in the state. 

Less than three leagues from Tuxtla Gutierrez is Chiapa, 
famous for the brightly painted gourds and calabash ves- 
sels there manufactured and sent out to all parts of the 
republic. Toys, rattles, cups, and great bowl- basins are 
among the forms produced. We visited a house where 
five women were making pretty rattles from little crook- 
necked gourds. The workers sat upon the floor, with their 
materials and tools before them. The first one rubbed the 
body of the dry gourds over with an oil paint. These 
paints are bought in bulk and mixed upon a flat slab, with 
a fine-grained, smooth, hard pebble as a grinder, with aje 



46 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

and a white earth dug near the road between Chiapa and 
Tuxtla Gutierrez. The aje is a yellow, putty-like mass 
which gives a brilliant, lacquer-like lustre; the white earth 
causes the color to adhere to the surface to which it is ap- 
plied. The second woman rubbed the neck of the gourd 
with green paint; the third painted the line of junction of 
the two colors with white, using a brush; the fourth brought 
out the lustre of the before dull object by rubbing it upon 
a pad of cotton cloth upon her knee, giving a final touch by 
careful rubbing with a tuft of cotton- wool; with a brush, 
the final worker rapidly painted on the lustrous surface 
delicate floral or geometric decoration. Though repre- 
senting so much delicate and ingenious labor, these pretty 
toys were sold at the price of two for a medio (three cents 
in United States currency). 

" The aje which gives the brilliant lustre to this work 
deserves more than a passing notice. It is made chiefly 
at San Bartoldme and is secured from an insect, a sort of 
plant-louse, which hves upon the blackthorn and related 
trees. The insect is found only in the wet season, is small, 
though growing rapidly, and is of a fiery-red color, though 
it coats itself over with a white secretion. It lives in swarms, 
which form conspicuous masses. These are gathered in 
vessels, washed to remove the white secretion, boiled, 
crushed, and strained through a cloth; an oily matter, 
mixed with blood ( ?) and water passes out, which is boiled 
to drive off the water and to concentrate the oily mass. 
This is then washed in trays, to rid it of the blood, and made 
up into balls, which are sold at ten or twelve centavos (five 
or six cents) a pound. It is a putty-like substance, with a 
handsome yellow color. We have already stated that it is 
ground up with dry paints to be rubbed on the object which 
is to be adorned, and that the brilliant lustre is developed 
by gentle and rapid friction. 





-;/ * :.-.- "f ■>.-. -. 




THROUGH CHIAPAS 47 



Pinto, a spotting or discoloring of the skin, is a common 
disease in many parts of Mexico. Three varieties are rec- 
ognized — white, red, and blue or purple. The disease is 
particularly frequent in the states of Guerrero and Chiapas, 
and we had heard that it was very common in Chiapa. 
Perhaps twenty per cent of the population really has the 
disease; at San Bartolome perhaps seventy- five per cent 
are affected; in some towns an even larger proportion is 
reported. The white form appears the commonest. One 
subject examined at Tuxtla Gutierrez was a woman some 
sixty years of age. At birth she showed no symptom of 
the trouble, but spots began to appear when she was seven 
or eight years old. She was naturally dark, and the white 
spots were in notable contrast to her normal color; the 
spots increased in number and in size until her face and 
arms looked as if they had been white and become brown - 
spotted, instead of vice versa. After she was forty years of 
age her spots varied but little. The cause of this disease 
is still obscure, although several treatises have been written 
upon it. Authorities do not even agree as to the sequence 
of the forms of the disease, if there be such sequence. Some 
assert that the white form is the early stage and that the 
disease may never progress beyond it; others assert that the 
white spots are merely the permanent scars, left after the 
disappearance of the disease itself. Maps of distribution 
seem to show a distinct relation of the disease to altitude 
and character of water-supply. The common herd attrib- 
ute it to an insect sting, to drinking of certain water, or 
to bathing in certain pools. Usually, there is no pain or 
danger connected with the trouble, except in the red form, 
but if the person affected changes residence, itching and 
some discomfort may temporarily ensue. The presidents 
at Chiapa took us to the jail, where the prisoners were filed 
before us and made to hold out hands and feet for our 



48 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

inspection. Such cases of pinto as were found were some- 
what carefully examined. All we encountered there were 
of the white variety. Later, at private houses, we saw some 
dreadful cases of the purple form. Very often, those whose 
faces were purple-blotched had white-spotted hands and 
feet. 

We had not planned to stop at Acala, but after a hard 
ride over a dreary road and a ferrying across a wide and 
deep river in a great dug-out canoe thirty feet or more in 
length — our animals swimming alongside — we found 
our beasts too tired for further progress. And it was a sad 
town. How strange, that beautifully clear and sparkling 
mountain water often produces actual misery among an 
ignorant population! Scarcely had we dismounted at our 
lodging place, when a man of forty, an idiot and goitrous, 
came to the door and with sadly imperfectly co-ordinated 
movements, gestured a message which he could not speak. 
Almost as soon as he had gone a deaf-mute boy passed. 
As we sat at our doorway, we saw a half-witted child at 
play before the next house. Goitre, deaf-mutism, and 
imbecility, all are fearfully common, and all are relatedly 
due to the drinking water. 

To us, sitting at the door near dusk, a song was borne 
upon the evening breeze. Nearer and nearer it came, until 
we saw a group of twelve or fifteen persons, women in front, 
men and children behind, who sang as they walked. Some 
aided themselves with long staves; all carried burdens of 
clothing, food, utensils; all were wearied and footsore with 
the long journey, but full of joy and enthusiasm, as they 
were nearing their destination — a famous shrine. Pass- 
ing us, they journeyed onward to an open space at the end 
of town, where, with many others who had reached there 
sooner, they camped for the night. The next day we con- 
stantly passed such parties of pilgrims; coming or going 




Ri\ER Between Chiapa axd Acala 




tii;__. ■ ■ -."i!. 



TllZ IXDLVN GOVERXMEXT AT SaX BaRTOLOME 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 49 



to this shrine which lay a little off the road between Acala 
and San Bartolome. In one group, we counted ninety 
pilgrims. 

We had been told that San Bartolome was full of goitre, 
and we really found no lack of cases. It is said that forty 
years ago it was far more common than now, and that the 
decrease has followed the selection of a new water source 
and the careful piping of the water to the town. In the 
population of two thousand, it was estimated that there 
might be two hundred cases, fifty of which were notable. 
None, however, was so extraordinary as that of which several 
told us, the late secretario of the town, who had a goitre of 
such size that, when he sat at the table to write, he had to 
lift the swelling with both hands and place it on the table 
before he began work. The former prevalence of the dis- 
ease is abundantly suggested by the frequency of deaf-mutes, 
a score or more of whom live here — all children of goitrous 
parents. Bad as was San Bartolome, it seemed to us sur- 
passed by San Antonio, where we found the disease in an 
aggravated form, while at Nenton, our first point in Guate- 
mala, every one appeared affected, although we saw no 
dreadful cases. 

San Bartolome is an almost purely indian town, where 
for the first time our attention was called to the two sets of 
town officials — indian and ladino. The indian town 
government consisted of four Indians of pure blood, who 
wore the native costume. This, here, is characteristic, 
both for men and women. The men wore wide-legged 
trousers of native woven cotton, and an upper jacket-shirt, 
square at the bottom, made of the same stuff, with designs 
— rosettes, flowers, geometrical figures, birds, animals, or 
men — wrought in them in red, green, or yellow wools; 
about the waist was a handsome brilliant native belt, while 
a bright kerchief was twisted about the head. The men 



50 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

were well-built, but the alcalde was a white pinto. 
Women wore huipilis, waist-garments, sometimes thick 
and heavy, at others thin and open, in texture, but in both 
cases decorated with lines of brightly colored designs. 
Their enaguas, skirts, were of heavy indigo-blue stuff or 
of plain white cotton, of two narrow pieces sewed together 
and quite plain except for a line of bright stitching along the 
line of juncture. As among other Indian tribes, this cloth 
was simply wrapped around the figure and held in place 
by a belt. The town is famous for its weaving and dyeing; 
the loom is the simple, primitive device used all through 
Mexico long before the Conquest. We were surprised to 
find that the designs in colored wools are not embroidered 
upon the finished fabric, but are worked in with bits of 
worsted during the weaving. 

From San Bartolome to Comitan, the road passes over 
a curious lime deposit, apparently formed by ancient hot 
waters; it is a porous tufa which gave back a hollow sound 
under the hoofs of our horses. It contains moss, leaves, 
and branches, crusted with lime, and often forms basin 
terraces, which, while beautiful to see, were peculiarly harsh 
and rough for our animals. But the hard, and far more 
ancient, limestone, onto which we then passed, was quite 
as bad. At the very summit of one hill of this we found a 
cave close by the road; entering it, we penetrated to a dis- 
tance of perhaps seventy-five feet, finding the roof hung 
with stalactites and the walls sheeted with stalagmite. 
Just after leaving this cave, we met a tramp on foot, ragged, 
weary, and dusty, and with a little bundle slung upon a 
stick over his shoulder. He accosted me in Spanish, ask- 
ing whence we had come; on my reply, probably catching 
my foreign accent, he winked and said in plain English, 
— "Yes? And where are you going, pard? " 

After a hard day's ride, over a shut-in road, destitute of 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 51 

fine views, we reached the crest overlooking Comitan. 
The descent was almost precipitous. The town, better 
built and more compact than most, was situated near the 
foot of the hill; near it, on a terrace, was the cemetery. 
On the level road, stretching to a long distance from the 
town, we saw lines of hundreds of pack-mules, dwarfed by 
distance. South from the town stretched a grassy plain, 
bordered here and there with pine trees. Back of this 
plain rose round-topped hills, and beyond them were again 
the blue mountains; far in the distance, behind these, 
towered the mighty crests of the Guatemalan Sierra Madre. 

The town was crowded, as the annual jeria (fair) was 
in progress, and it was with difficulty that we found a room 
to sleep in, going for our meals to one of the many tempo- 
rary eating-places in the plaza. Comitan is the last town 
of consequence in Mexico, and has wide fame on account 
of its spirits, known at comiteco. This drink, of enormous 
strength, distilled from coarse, brown sugar (panela), is a 
favorite in Guatemala, and its smuggling across the border, 
though risky, is a lucrative business. There are scores 
of little distilleries in the town, many of them belonging to 
and conducted by women. 

Mexican paper money is useless between Tuxtla Gutier- 
rez and Comitan. At the latter city it may be exchanged 
for silver, but with difficulty. From here on we found no 
copper in circulation, and before reaching Comitan we had 
begun to receive Guatemalan silver in our change. Fully 
thirty leagues from the border we ceased to receive*Mexi- 
can silver from anyone. This notable displacement of 
Mexican currency seems curious, because Guatemalan 
money is at a heavy discount in comparison with it. At 
San Bartolome we sent a soldier-police to buy zacate, giving 
him Mexican money. He brought back two Guatemalan 
pieces in change, and on our objecting to receive it, as- 



52 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

sured me, not only that the money was good, but also that 
here the people were Guatemalans. "Here," said he, 
"not Mexico: here we are all Carrera's people." This, 
of course, was sheer treason. Carrera, the pure-blood 
Indian who in the stirring days of 1839 seized the power 
in Guatemala, a strange and wild being who had a real 
love for his country, has left a profound impression. At 
times an exile, he had lived at Comitan, where his name 
was familiar to all the Indians around. His coins are much 
prized by the Indians for necklaces and earrings, and even 
at Tehuantepec we had seen women wearing his little 
gold pieces in their ears. 

It should have been an easy matter to go from Comitan 
to Nenton (in Guatemala) in a single day. As it was, we 
made it with great difhculty in two, our mule Chontal 
apparently being completely worn out. We crossed the 
llano, passed through patches of pines, and then came out 
upon a terrible country of limestone hills. In our last 
day's journey we had to coax, threaten, beat, drag, and 
push that mule until our voices were gone and our arms 
were tired. Immediately on passing the line into Guate- 
mala, we found the telegraph wires cut and poles down, 
a result of the late unpleasantness with Mexico. The 
mountain mass before us, which had been in view for two 
days past, loomed up frightfully before us. Would our 
little mule be able to pass it? We remembered what an 
American tramp, whom we had met at Tuxtla Gutierrez 
and who had walked on foot from Guatemala City, had 
said: "Between Nenton and Huehuetenango you will pass 
over a mountain that will make your heart sick; may God 
help you." Just at dusk we looked down upon Nenton 
in a little valley, with a fine stream crossed by a pretty 
bridge, where mountains rose steeply on every side. Hav- 
ing been registered by the custom officials, we slept that 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 53 

night, our first in the new republic, in the municipal 
house. 

Next morning we started bravely, the whole town having 
assembled to see us off. We safely reached the foot of the 
mountain, where the mule stopped and braced himself. 
We spoke kindly, coaxed, dragged, but all to no effect. 
Finally he started, but three times within the next few 
minutes, he and we went through the same procedure. 
Patience had ceased to be a virtue; we held a serious con- 
sultation. Ernst asserted that by placing the rope over the 
nostrils of the animal and then leading, he must move. 
We tried the experiment. The beast gave a snort, a groan, 
lurched, fell over, kicked convulsively, closed his eyes, and 
lay to all appearance dead. The town below, which had 
been watching progress, came running up. We removed 
the halter; the animal lay quiet. The pity of the by- 
standers was maddening; their remarks exasperating. 
"Poor little mule, he dies;" they pointed to his rubbed sides, 
— "Ah, poor creature! What a heavy load! How thin he 
is." It is certain that the best mule in the town was in far 
worse condition, and as for food, Chontal had eaten more 
the night before than our two horses put together. Having 
exhausted their vocabulary of sympathy, our friends left 
us, as the "poor little animal" showed signs of coming to. 
We concluded to engage a man on foot to carry the burden 
across the mountains and to lead Chontal. After some 
delay a man was found, who readily agreed to carry the 
burden and pack-saddle, but when he found he was to lead 
the mule besides, he defied the town authorities and re- 
fused to go. Unfortunately, he was a carpenter and, by 
law, could not be made to go against his will. Hours 
passed, while another carrier was sought. Declaring that 
I would not return to town, I waited on the road with the 
mule, while Ernst rode back and forth. As soon as he had 



54 IN INDIAN MEXICO 



left, the beast began to mend; he coughed, raised his head, 
and, opening one eye, gravely winked. Taking his halter 
and encouraging him to rise, I led him a few yards up the 
hill, when he again braced himself and I desisted. There 
he ate zacate. Presently we took another turn, mounted 
a little higher up the hill, where he stopped again. A little 
later we made another journey, and again halted. Just 
then I heard an indian boy of fourteen years calling from 
the cliff above me in great excitement, "Senorj un animal " 
(An animal, sir). Clambering over rocks, I came up to 
the boy, with his machete in his hand, standing at the foot 
of a tree upon the leafless branches of which was a fine 
iguana (lizard) two feet or more in length. Visions of 
iguana steak, which I had long desired to try, rose in fancy. 
The boy was disgusted when he found I had no pistol with 
which to shoot his animal, but grunted, "If we but had 
a cord." I directed him where to find a cord among our 
luggage and on his return he made a slip-noose, cut a long 
and slender pole to which he tied his snare, then handing 
me his machete he raised his pole and tried to slip the noose 
over the lizard's head. The iguana gave a leap, and as it 
shot by me I struck at it with the machete, which hit it and 
threw it on the rocks below. However, before we could 
reach it, it had made good its escape. 

Returning to the mule I found it eating grass contentedly 
by the roadside. It was three o'clock in the afternoon 
when our human beast of burden finally arrived, took up 
his burden and was ready to start. Then, suddenly, 
I took a new resolve. Before us rose the appalling mass of 
the Sierra Madre; to get that mule across it would wear us 
out in mind and body; I regretted that he had not died, and 
determined to have no further trouble with him. Quickly, 
we sent back word to Nenton that a mule and saddle were 
for sale ; the crowd gathered. We demanded fifteen dol- 



THROUGH CHIAPAS 55 

lars for the mule, ten for the saddle; and were offered ten 
and five respectively. But we declared we would kill the 
mule and burn the saddle before we would take less; we 
triumphed. Our account stood: 

Cost of mule $45 .00 

Cost of saddle 6 .00 

$51.00 

Selling price of mule 15 .00 

Selling price of saddle 10.00 

$25.00 

Loss — paid for experience in mules $26.00 



CHAPTER V 

AT HUIXQUILUCAN 
(1897) 

OUR serious work was to begin with one of the most con- 
servative and reserved of Mexican indian populations. 
If we could do what we planned to do with the Otomis, 
we were likely to have but little greater trouble with any 
tribe. In ancient times the name of Otomi was synony- 
mous with stupidity. When an Aztec was particularly 
stupid or clumsy, his fellows in derision called him an 
Otomi. They still are ignorant, suspicious, and unpro- 
gressive. 

Huixquilucan, which we had chosen as our field for 
labor, is situated on a high ridge within sight of the National 
Railroad, at a distance of perhaps a mile and a half from 
the station of Dos Rios. A crowd of indian women and 
children are always at the station when trains pass, to sell 
tortillas, chalupas, and pulque to passengers; few travellers 
from the United States, passing over this road, have failed 
to notice the dark and ugly faces of these sellers, and have 
received their first impression of the Indians of Mexico 
from seeing them. Our party, three in number, reached 
Dos Rios in the morning and began work at the station with 
the women who were selling there. Dr. Powell, as our inter- 
preter, undertook the personal dealings, and our material, 
as was to be expected, was chiefly women. When we came 
to record the names of our subjects, we found that every 
woman's first name was Maria, the differentiation between 
them being first found in the middle name. They were 

56 




Otomi Indian Girls; Huixquilucan 




The Moun-stone, at Dos Rios Station 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 57 

little creatures, scarcely larger than well grown girls of 
eleven or twelve among ourselves. Some old women, with 
grey hair and wrinkled faces who piously kissed our hands 
when they met us, were among the smallest. Now and 
then some young woman or girl was attractive, but usually 
their faces were suspicious, sad, and old before their time. 
The skin was a rich brown; the eyebrows heavily haired, 
often meeting above the nose; the hair grew low upon the 
forehead, and in young women the forehead itself was 
covered with a fine downy black growth. The nose was 
flat, broad, and depressed at the roots, while its tip was 
flat and wide. The eyes were dark brown and the hair was 
black and coarse. If we were to judge the population by 
the women only, we might call the Otomis true pygmies. 
The average stature of 28 subjects was 1,435 millimeters 
— while Sir William Flower's limit for pygmy peoples is 
1,500 millimeters. 

Many of the women whom we measured and photo- 
graphed carried babies; the disposition of the children while 
the mothers were being examined was something of a 
problem. When given to another woman they usually 
cried lustily, and so conducted themselves as to distract 
the attention of their mothers and interfere seriously with 
our work. In the crowd of lookers-on there chanced to be 
a little girl, surely not more than ten years old, who seemed 
to be a born caretaker. Upon her back, supported by 
her ayate, she carried her own baby brother. We quickly 
found that really refractory babies were best committed 
to her charge. No matter how loudly they might have been 
crying beforehand, when transferred to the arms of this 
little creature they became instantly quiet. The poor little 
thing was kept busily employed the greater part of the after- 
noon with the two babies, one upon her back, the other in 
her arms. 



58 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Almost all the women wear the ancient costume, which 
consists of the huipil, enagua, }aja, and ayate. The hui- 
pil is a cotton blanket, with a slit through which the head 
passes. On each side of the slit are bands of patterns em- 
broidered in bright colors. Much of the remaining sur- 
face of the garment may be similarly decorated; sometimes 
it becomes one mass of designs. The patterns are usually 
geometrical figures, but may be representations of animals, 
birds, or human beings. They may be regularly arranged, 
or jumbled together haphazard. The enagua, skirt, con- 
sists of two strips of cloth of different kinds and colors, 
sewn together side by side and then wrapped horizontally 
about the body. The strips of cloth are native spun, native 
dyed, and native woven. The favorite colors are dark 
blue, brownish purple, or Indian red, horizontally banded 
with narrow black stripes. The two strips are usually joined 
by a line of colored stitching. The enagua is simply wrapped 
about the body, sometimes thrown into pleatings in 
front, and held in place by a broad cotton belt of bright 
color, into which are woven birds, animals, human figures, 
and geometrical forms. These belts are called by the 
Spanish name, ^aja. Both men and women carry ayates. 
These are square or rectangular blankets made of ixtli, the 
strong fibre of the maguey. Like the enaguas, they usually 
consist of two pieces, side by side, stitched together with 
some bright color. The fibre, which is gotten from the 
leaves partly by maceration, partly by beating, is spun in a 
primitive fashion. Almost every woman one meets upon 
the road, no matter what burden of babies or goods she 
carries, has a hank of the fibre thrown over her shoulder, 
and keeps her little spindle whirling, spinning the strong 
thread as she walks. Her spindle consists of a slender stick 
thrust through a whorl of baked pottery. Such whorls are 
no longer made, but the ancient ones, called by the Aztec 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 59 

name malacates, are picked up in the fields and reapplied 
to their old use. Usually the ixtli thread is left of its orig- 
inal grey or white color, but sometimes the fibre is dyed, 
a fine shade of orange being favored. The ixtli thread is 
woven into ayates, which are used for carrying burdens. 
Vegetables, charcoal, babies — anything — are put into 
them. Two ends are tied together to hold the burden in 
place, and the other two are passed across the breast and 
tied in front. These blankets are astonishingly strong 
and unyielding. 

At evening, after a fair day's work, we made our way 
on foot across the valley and up the long slope to the sum- 
mit of the ridge on which lay Huixquilucan, the official 
centre of a municipality of 11,000 persons. Of these, 
3,000 live in the village, while the remainder are clustered 
together in hamlets like San Bartolito, San Francisco, Agua 
Bendita, or are scattered in single-house settlements over the 
mountains. Of the 11,000 persons, more than three-fourths 
claim to be full Otomis. There are no truly poor in the 
whole town. Every family has its field, its house, its bit 
of woodland. All the people still speak the native tongue, 
and many speak no other. The town is picturesquely 
situated upon the crest and flank of a long, narrow ridge, 
which is enclosed by a grand sweeping curve of lofty moun- 
tains. The flanks of the enclosed ridge and the whole slope 
of the surrounding mountains are occupied by the little 
fields of the indians, long narrow patches separated by 
lines of maguey or century-plants. The houses are built 
of adobe bricks with thick and solid walls, which are usually 
plastered on the outside and tinted white or pink. The 
roofs are pitched, but with a gentle slope. They consist 
of frameworks of poles upon which long narrow shingles are 
laid, and pegged in place with wooden pegs which project 
both above and below for several inches in a formidable, 



6o IN INDIAN MEXICO 



bristling way. Sometimes the shingles, instead of being 
pegged in place, are held by stones, which in some cases 
weigh several pounds, and are laid in regular horizontal 
lines. 

When we were there, great stacks of corn-husks were 
to be seen in almost every yard; these were placed on 
floorings, raised by posts some distance above the ground 
to keep them from animals. A long ladder usually leaned 
against one side of the stack and a light cross of sticks 
stuck into the top of the stack kept off evil influences. 
Sometimes this cross was cut in relief on the smooth, care- 
fully trimmed end of the stack itself. More striking than 
these stacks, and quite characteristic of the Otomi country, 
were the queer corn-bins or granaries called by the Aztec 
name cincalote. They rose in all directions like great 
square columns. The floor of boards was slightly raised 
from the ground by stones, and measured some 4 or 5 feet 
on a side; from its corners rose 4 poles, sometimes to the 
height of 20 feet; these were connected at the top and held 
firm by ropes. The sides of the bin were built up of a cob- 
work of slender staves laid horizontally. The vertical bin 
thus formed was filled with ears of corn roofed about with 
a light thatch or shingled roof. Later in the season, as the 
corn was taken from these bins, the sides would have been 
removed piecemeal to keep progress with the diminishing 
hoard. When the time of planting should be near, the 
whole structure but the floor and upright poles would have 
disappeared. 

Next to maize the chief culture among the Otomis is 
maguey. This forms division lines between the corn-fields 
and the village yards, and is sometimes, though not com- 
monly here, planted in fields. The maguey is an agave 
very close to the century-plant. Manifold are its uses, 
but to the Otomi its value is chiefly in two directions. It 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 6i 

furnishes ixtli fibre for ayates, and it yields pulque. For 
a dozen years the maguey plant stores away starchy food 
in its long, thick, sharp-pointed leaves. It is the intended 
nourishment for a great shaft of flowers. Finally, the 
flower-bud forms amid the cluster of leaves. Left to itself 
the plant now sends all its reserve of food into this bud, and 
the great flower-stalk shoots upward at the rate of several 
inches daily; then the great pyramid of flowers develops. 
But man interferes. The flower-bud is cut out, and a neat, 
deep cup is fashioned amid the bases of the cluster of 
leaves. The sap which should produce that wonderful 
growth is poured into this cup. The pulque gatherer, with 
his long gourd collecting-tube, and skin carrying-bottle, 
goes from plant to plant and gathers the agua miel — 
honey-water. Fermented, it becomes the whitish, dirty, 
ropy, sour-tasting, bad-smelling stuff so dear to the in- 
dians. And the Otomi are fond of pulque. We were 
compelled to do our work in the mornings; in the after- 
noons everyone was drunk and limp and useless in the 
operator's hands. 

We slept and ate at the house of the presidente, an old 
mestizo of rather forbidding manners but kindly spirit. 
Our cases came rather slowly and a deal of coaxing, argu- 
ment, and bribes were necessary to secure them. Here we 
gave a trifle, a few centavos, to each subject. The policy 
was bad, and we abandoned it with reference to all sub- 
sequent populations. Naturally the natives were hostile 
to our work. They thought that we were measuring them 
for their coffins; that they would be forced into the army; 
that disease would result; that an uncanny influence was 
laid upon them; that witchcraft might be worked against 
them. After having had a lot of trouble with many of our 
subjects, we were surprised one day to have the oldest man 
of the village, Antonio Calistro, born in 1813, still so hale 



62 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

and hearty that he works his own fields, come in for meas- 
urement and photographing. He still wears the old style 
of dress: a loose jacket with wide sleeves made of dark blue 
woolen cloth, gathered around the waist by a closely-woven 
cotton belt; short, wide-legged trousers of buckskin. He 
is the only man left in the village who wears his hair after 
the old fashion; that on top of his head in front was combed 
together and braided into a little tail, while that on the 
sides and back of the head was made into a longer braid. 
When we asked him how it was that he was not afraid 
to undergo our measurement and photographing, we 
learned that someone had told him that the purport of the 
work was to send information to the Pope in Rome as to how 
his Otomi children looked, and from respect for the Holy 
Father the old man of eighty years had walked in from his 
distant farm to be measured and photographed. 

A curious fact in respect to the Otomis resulted from 
our study. The men, apparently of pure blood, presented 
two quite different types. There are many who are as 
little as the women; these present almost the type already 
given as that of the women, but are a little lighter in color. 
The second type is tall, sometimes over 1,700 millimeters. 
It is lighter in color, presenting at times a light brownish- 
yellow shade. Some indians of this large type have white 
skins, blotched with disagreeable red or purple. The eyes 
of these large men are usually widely-spaced, and the face 
appears rounder than in their smaller brethren. All the 
Otomis of both types, men and women, have astonishingly 
big heads, and many dwarfish individuals would require 
a 7i hat. 

One night during our stay we had a grand illumina- 
tion. It was St. Martin's Eve. During the afternoon the 
men and boys planted dead trees in the plaza and streets, 
and filled the bremches with bunches of dry brush. At 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 63 

dusk we walked up to the Ctest before the church. All 
through the valley the men and boys had been busy, and 
as darkness settled down, blaze after blaze sprung forth 
until every hillside was dotted with flaming heaps. On every 
church and farm-house of large size, straight lines of little 
bonfires were built along the edges of the roof. There must 
have been many hundreds of fires in sight at once. Mean- 
while, all the churches of the little hamlets around clanged 
their bells discordantly. Then the church close by us burst 
into illumination, and its bells joined in the clangor as we 
started down the hill. The villagers were putting torches 
to the piles, and children were dancing in the glare, shoot- 
ing off their little rockets and adding their full share to the 
general confusion. 

In the olden time Huixquilucan had a bad reputation 
for highway robberies. A great hill overlooking the town 
is called the hill of crosses, and here a cross by the way- 
side usually signifies a place of murder. Many a traveller 
in the not distant past found his way from here as best he 
could to the capital city minus burden and money, minus 
hat and shoes, and sometimes minus clothing. They used 
to say that from Toluca to the city a man was robbed 
three times; the first time they took his money, the second 
his watch and valuables, the third, his clothes. We were 
told that the church here, the chief church of our Otomi 
friends, is called "the church of the thieves," and that 
it was even lately a favorite resort of ladrones, who 
prayed for blessing upon their thieving expeditions and for 
release in case they should be taken captive. And not so 
long ago, among the little silver votive offerings, — eyes, 
legs, arms, hands, — all given in fulfillment of promises 
for the cure of ailing members, — one might see little chains 
and manacles, visible evidence that saint or Virgin had 
kindly released some fellow, taken in his misdeeds, from 



64 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

a well deserved punishment, in answer to his pious 
prayers. 

Below the station of Dos Rios a little ravine borders 
the main valley. There, within sight of the track on one 
side of the ravine lies the stone which long ago "fell from 
the moon." It is a great boulder, with flat lower surface, 
and round upper surface, sufficiently large for a considerable 
party to camp on. The earth is washed away somewhat 
from below it, and on its under side are rude figures painted 
in imitation of suns and circles and symbolic designs. It is 
said that the Indians throughout the country around respect 
this rock, making prayers and offerings to it. 

One of Huixquilucan's pretty hamlets is Agua Bendita, 
— blessed water, — near the upper, narrowing end of the 
valley. A dozen or so houses compose the settlement. 
Near it, upon a little side gorge, two lovely springs burst 
forth from the rock. From them a babbling stream of 
sparkling water flows, in which, in the bright sunshine, 
women wash clothes, and lay them out on bushes or grassy 
banks to dry; little naked children play about while the 
mothers labor; hither dusky maidens come to perform 
their toilets; here women fill their ollas with water; here 
pttlque-ga,ihereTS wash and scrape their skin bottles. In 
the little tank below, where the water lies so clear that 
everything is visible upon its bottom, one may see axolotls 
creeping. They are water-salamanders, but they have a 
strange history. Like frogs, they pass through a series of 
changes, and the larval is very different from the adult form. 
In some Mexican lakes of genial temperature, the little 
creature goes through its full history from the larva to the 
adult; but in cold mountain lakes, the adult form is never 
attained, and the larva (elsewhere immature) lays eggs 
that hatch its like. 

Our last evening at Huixquilucan, I went out to pur- 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 65 

chase native garments. We rode from house to house, 
and were quite away from the town in a district where 
houses were few and far between. It was nearly dusk 
and our search must end. We were at the last house on a 
slope near the bottom of a valley, on whose opposite slope 
were but a few houses. The people were primitive in 
appearance, dress and language. They could not under- 
stand all we said, but were anxious to please the '^ padre- 
cito,^^ whose hand they kissed. Having no clothing to sell 
us, they tried to help us procure some. Orders were given 
to a shy and wild girl, with deep-set, shining jet-black 
eyes, raven hair and dark brown skin, dressed in rags. 
Stepping to a little out- jutting mass of rock, she gave a 
wild cry, looking across the valley to the nearest house on 
the opposite slope, fully half a mile away. We could see the 
people of the house turn out to hear. Then, in a high, 
clear voice, strangely penetrating, but without harshness 
or a break or pause for breath, with rising and falling 
intonation, she cried her message. There was a moment's 
pause, and then we saw the answering crier take her place, 
and in the same clear, penetrating, unbroken, up-and- 
down voice, came back the reply. It was not favorable, 
and the old man apologized for the failure, as he kissed 
the padrecito^s hand in parting. 

Some weeks later we were again at Huixquilucan, this 
time to secure some busts. Having reached the house of 
the presidente, we sent out our drunken friend Augustin, 
who had been useful to us during our measuring exper- 
iences, to find subjects. He finally appeared with a man 
who agreed to submit to the operation for one peso. Every- 
thing went well until the moulds were removed; it is true 
that in the removal a good deal of hair was pulled out, but 
no serious damage was done. When the peso agreed upon 



66 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

was offered, the subject indignantly refused to receive it, 
demanding five. I replied that he well understood our 
agreement: there was his peso; if he cared to take it, good; 
if not, I would keep it ; but that to pay five pesos was out of 
the question. He thereupon grew angry and boisterously 
demanded the increased sum. Several of his friends gath- 
ered and backed him in his demand. The noise they made 
attracted a still greater crowd until at last we were sur- 
rounded by forty or fifty angry indians. The man con- 
tinued to demand his five pesos, the other crying, "Pay 
him five pesos. ^^ I was firm, declaring that the man should 
receive no more than had been promised. Again the peso 
was offered, again to be rejected. At that moment some 
brilliant genius cried, "If you do not pay five pesos we will 
break your moulds." And the cry was caught up by the 
angry crowd: "Yes, we will break the moulds unless you 
pay five pesos." At this threat I told my two companions 
to stand back out of the way, and then, speaking to him 
who had suggested the breaking of the moulds, said, point- 
ing to them, "Yes, break the moulds." His ardor cooled. 
Turning to another, I said to him, "Come, break the 
moulds." He began to back away. Turning to the cause 
of the disturbance, who had joined in the cry about destroy- 
ing the moulds, I said to him, "Come, come, we are waiting 
for you to break the moulds." No one made a move toward 
destroying our plaster- work, so I said, "No, you know 
quite well you will not break the moulds; if you did, you 
know what would happen; I should take you all as pris- 
oners to Toluca." At that moment, catching sight of the 
old presidente who was passing on the road, I clapped my 
hands and beckoned him. When the old man came I laid 
the matter fairly before him, telling him the agreement that 
had been made, the time taken for the work, and the fact 
I had offered the man the peso promised ; that he now de-^ 



AT HUIXQUILUCAN 67 

manded five pesos, refusing to take the proffered money. 
The old man looked a moment at me, then at the angry 
Indian; then at me, and again at the Indian; then, step- 
ping up to him, he patted him on the back as a father might 
a spoiled child, saying, ''Come, come, son; don't be a fool; 
three good days' wages for an hour's time; take your peso 
and be gone." We had feared the incident would cast a 
damper on our work and hinder other subjects. Far from 
it. We were supplied as rapidly as our men could work 
at the same price we paid our first subject. 



CHAPTER VI 

LAKE PATZCUARO 
(1897) 

Tl yTEXICO has few large lakes, the largest, Chapala, 
^^^ having an area of only 1,685 square kilometers. 
Patzcuaro is much smaller, but far more picturesque. The 
form is something like a fat horseshoe; fine hills rise around 
it on all sides, behind which are mountain heights, with 
jagged outlines; pretty islands dot its waters, and twenty- 
two villages or towns of Tarascan Indians are situated on 
its borders. The Indians of these villages rarely use the 
land roads in going from town to town, commonly journey- 
ing by canoes, of a somewhat peculiar type. These are 
"dug outs," made from single tree trunks, and range in size 
from those intended for a single hunter to those which will 
carry ten or twelve persons. At the stem they are cut 
almost squarely across; at the bow they are trimmed to a 
slope; they are flat-bottomed and considerably wider at 
at the bottom than above ; they are dug out in such fashion 
that the walls are thin and almost vertical on the inner 
side. Buttressing pieces are left at the bottom, at two or 
three places, extending across the canoe and no doubt 
strengthening the sides; they also serve as squatting places 
for the passengers. The prow narrows as well as slopes 
upward, and a buttressing piece left in it serves as a foot-rest 
for the steersman, who sits in the bow, instead of in the 
stem. He steers by means of a long-handled paddle thrust 
through a loop of wood fastened to one side of the canoe. 
The paddles used for propulsion have handles three or 

68 



LAKE PATZCUARO 69 

four feet long, with round blades. The paddlers sometimes 
make their stroke on but one side of the canoe, sometimes 
on both. When they paddle over one side only, the stroke 
of the oar through the water is oblique, maintaining a steady 
course. 

In such canoes the Tarascans of the lake villages go 
from place to place; in such a canoe, we started one morn- 
ing before six o'clock, for Sante Fe de la Laguna. Our 
force consisted of three persons, an old man named Felipe, 
his wife, and a young man. All three had paddles, but only 
two really paddled, the third one steering. The sun rose 
shortly after we started, and the light effects of early morn- 
ing on the water and surrounding mountains were fine. 
Though we had made an early start, many had started 
earlier, and in the first part of our journey we met scores 
of canoes, the paddlers of which were on their way to Patz- 
cuaro. It was a beautiful sight to see six or eight paddlers 
in some great canoe keeping exact time in their movements, 
singing as they went. Sometimes two canoes were raced, 
and laughter and excited cries accompanied the contest. 
Here and there along the shores we saw little huts of fisher- 
men, with nets hung out to dry, or groups of men seining 
or dropping dip-nets; upon many slopes were little terrace 
garden spots, where modest crops were cultivated ; here and 
there were mats lately finished or heaps of fresh-cut rushes 
for their fabrication. Five hours of good paddling brought 
us to Santa Fe de la Laguna, just opposite the far more 
famous Tzintzuntzan, and but a little distance from the 
much larger town, Quiroga. Santa Fe is quite a town, 
stretching for a considerable distance along a terrace, but 
little elevated above the water level. The houses are built 
of rather large, dark- brown, adobe bricks; the walls are 
usually white plastered ; the roofs of all the houses are tiled, 
and the supporting rafters of the roof extend out far beyond 



70 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the front wall of the house, so that the passer on the foot- 
path is sheltered against rain and the noonday sun. The 
outer ends of these rafters are cut to give an ornamental 
effect. All the houses are surrounded by fruit trees — 
orange, lemon, lime, ahuacate and chirimoya. Each little 
property is surrounded by a stone wall of some height; the 
gateway through this, giving entrance to the yard, is sur- 
mounted by a pretty little double-pitched roofing of thatch. 

A crowd of pure indians had gathered at the landing, 
by the time we were unloaded. Forty or fifty men and 
women of medium stature, dark-brown skin and broad, 
expressionless faces, watched our every movement with 
curiosity, but none was ready to assist us in carrying our 
luggage to the curato. Taking it ourselves, as best we could, 
we found a boy to direct us and made our way to the house. 
The cura had gone to Quiroga and his suspicious house- 
hold would not receive us until his return, although permit- 
ting us to leave our goods. Going to the plaza, we suc- 
ceeded in getting bread and cheese at a tienda, and after 
eating loitered until, at half-past-two, the Padre Ponce 
made his appearance. We showed him our letters and asked 
his interest and aid. He at once made us at home in his 
house, summoned the officials, read the governor's letter 
aloud to them, and told them it was their duty to assist us 
in every way. We at once began our work, and before 
nightfall had measured and photographed a number of cases. 

The next morning, Saturday, all started merrily. After 
breakfast, however. Padre Ponce left us, going to Quiroga 
for celebrating Christmas. The moment he was gone, 
work slackened, and it was with difficulty that we could 
procure subjects. Early the next morning the padre ap- 
peared to say mass, after which he stirred up the people and 
we were again at work. But as soon as he left for Quiroga, 
once more, the interest diminished. Finally, as no one 



LAKE PATZCUARO 71 

came and the officials had disappeared, we started out upon 
a tour of investigation. We found the whole town drunk; 
the juez, the chief of police, the mayores, all were too 
drunk for measurement. We experimented upon two or 
three subjects, but soon gave up in despair. 

Padre Ponce need not have gone to Quiroga for Christ- 
mas celebrations; we had them also. For example, we had 
Los Viejos. One afternoon, we saw a band of half-a-dozen 
persons singing in the street. All but one of them were 
men or boys dressed in long robes of brilliant red, purple 
or green, which were buttoned down the front ; their heads 
were covered with white cloth, over which were fitted little 
masks of clay. The last one in the company was a woman, 
dressed quite in the usual fashion, but barefoot and with her 
rebozo covering her face and a man's scmibrero on her head. 
Two of the party had guitars of local manufacture. This 
company strolled through the streets, singing and dancing; 
some of the dancing was clog-dance, some the jarabe, a 
man and woman taking part. Having noticed this group, 
we saw that the whole town seemed in movement toward 
the corral connected with the shrine behind the church. 
Following with the crowd, we found the corral already 
filled with people. The men were seated on benches or 
squatting against the walls; women and children were 
sitting on the ground. We noticed that all the women 
brought burdens, which proved to be pots full of hot atole, 
bundles of large tortillas, trays heaped high with tamaleSy 
or sacks full of little cups. Various bands of dancers made 
their way around, delighting the crowd with their per- 
formances. The group we had already seen was the least 
interesting. Those that really represented los viejos (the 
old men) were the best. These wore large, comic, wooden 
masks, many of which showed signs of long-continued use; 
one represented a long, warty, bearded face and was painted 



72 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

purple; others were painted red or brown, but most of them 
were of the natural color of the wood; great wigs of corn- 
husk or of matting were worn over the back of the head; 
the clothing was ragged and dirty, and in some cases was 
really of ancient style; some wore roughly made garments 
of the skin of the tigre. Each band had its leader, and each 
tried to outdo the others in the oddity of performance, 
vigor of dancing and coarseness of jest. Much fun and 
laughter were caused by their antics. Meantime, boys and 
young women were busied as waiters. Cups of steaming 
atole, delicious tortillas^ hot tamales were distributed until 
everyone, including the strangers, were supplied. No one 
ate until the whole company had been served, when the 
town officials set the example and all fell to feasting. Danc- 
ing, music, laughter and fun followed, and were kept up 
until some time after nightfall. 

On the second day after Christmas a strolling band of 
pastores, from San Geronimo, passed from house to house 
singing their Christmas songs. The company consisted 
of two or three musicians, a carrier — who was an Indian 
boy about fifteen years old — and half a dozen other young- 
sters, wearing new palm hats and carrying long staves end- 
ing above in a loop from which streamed strips of brilliantly 
colored tissue paper. The carrier bore a cushion, upon 
which was stretched a figure of the infant Christ. At each 
house, he passed before the spectators, allowing them to 
kiss the figure and to deposit gifts of flowers or of money 
for the little church at San Geronimo; the music then 
struck up, the leader began to sing, and the little shepherds 
(pastores) marched around and around singing in chorus. 

We lost quite two days on account of the drunkenness 
of the town. When it was past, by a vigorous indulgence 
in wheedling and threatening, we got the work again under 
way, and were just finishing with our one-hundredth man, 




Churchyard axd Bells; Tzixtzuntzax 




View at Janicho; Lake Patzauaro 



->>^^^ 

, -->;.>•• 



LAKE PATZCUARO 73 

when Padre Ponce returned for good and all. We had 
nearly starved during his absence; his old housekeeper had 
done her best with the poor materials which we were able 
to secure, but the best was bad. With Padre Ponce came 
another priest, Padre Torres of Patzcuaro, who used to be 
located at Santa Fe and was much loved by the natives. 
With the assistance of the two Padres we were able to 
secure and deal with our female subjects in less than a day, 
and were ready to bid adieu to the padrecUos and leave 
for Tzintzuntzan. 

All the tourist world that goes to Patzcuaro visits Tzin- 
tzuntzan to see the Titian. Padre Ponce was anxious to 
have us sec the famous picture and photograph it. It was 
late when we reached the town, which consists in large part 
of mestizos and Indians who speak little but native Tarascan. 
We found the cur a was not in town, but were taken to the 
curato; arrived there, we discovered that the good man had 
taken his keys with him. We arranged, with some diffi- 
culty, for something to eat, and, after supper, were shown 
into an open room, with an unfinished roof, without a door, 
and with no hint of bed. Here we shared a lumber pile 
with two or three young men and suffered frightfully from 
cold all night. We were up early, as sleep was impossible, 
and filled our time as best we could, until it was light enough 
to photograph the picture. 

We had our letter from Padre Ponce to the cura, 
in which he recommended the priest to have us photograph 
the painting. This letter and the governor's letter we had 
shown the town officials the night before, telling them that 
we should make the picture. They replied that they could 
not give permission to do so during the padre's absence. 
After we had breakfasted, and the light had become suf- 
ficient, we made our way to the old church, in front of 
which are some beautifully gnarled and irregular ancient 



74 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

olive trees, amid which the old bells are quaintly hung. 
Entering the church, we soon found the Titian, a de- 
scent from the cross. The figures are boldly painted and 
skillfully grouped; the action and lighting concentrate 
upon the figure of the Christ. Padre Ponce had told us 
that the proper place from which to photograph was the 
pulpit, and he was right. The sacristan was looking on 
with doubt: when he saw us making preparations for the 
picture, he hurried to us and said it was against all rule 
for anyone to take a photograph when the cura was not 
present. We told him our time was short; that we must 
return to Patzcuaro that day to arrange our farther journey; 
we showed the governor's order and Padre Ponce's letter, 
but all in vain. We must wait until the cura came. With 
this I put some centavos in his hand and told him I was 
certain his duties called him outside the church and that 
we would not detain him; that we should stay awhile to 
gaze upon the picture, which deserved close and pious 
examination. He at once withdrew, locking the door 
behind him. The instrument was quickly placed in the 
pulpit and the picture taken. Curiously, the sacristal 
duties ended just as we were ready to leave the church and 
the door opened as if we had said ''Open sesame." 

By ten-thirty we had secured a canoe and boatmen, 
two young and vigorous pure-blood indians. Though 
a wind was blowing squarely against us, we made good 
time. We stopped at the picturesque fishing-village of 
Janicho, on its rock island. Its houses cluster on a little 
terrace near the bottom of the hill, which rises behind 
it as a fine background. Steps of rock lead up the stony 
slope from the water's edge to the houses. In every yard 
mattings are laid, upon which little white fish are drying. 
As they walk through the streets or stand talking together, 
the men are ever tatting at nets; long lines of net-cord are 



LAKE PATZCUARO 75 

reeled out for many yards along the wayside; hundreds of 
feet of seines are hung out in the sun to dry. The houses, 
with their pretty red tihng, are irregularly clustered along 
narrow winding streets. The people are purely indian, 
and wear the characteristic dress. 

No town in all the region makes so much use of the 
tsupaktm, or spear-thrower, a wooden stick cut to fit the 
hand and support the shaft of a spear or long dart, the end 
of which rests against a peg near the tip of the thrower. 
By means of this instrument, the long, light, darts of cane 
with iron points are thrown more directly and forcibly than 
by the hand alone. These spears are used in hunting 
ducks. Anciently a spear-throwing stick was widely used 
through Mexico; to-day it lingers in few places, the best 
known of which is here on Lake Patzcuaro. 



CHAPTER VII 

TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 
(1898) 

"\ "\ /"E easily arranged at Patzcuaro to leave for Uruapan 
^ ^ the next morning. Although delayed beyond our 
proposed hour of starting, we were off at six. It was early 
enough, indeed, for the morning air was cold; heavy frost 
coated the leaves and grass and lay upon the soil; in spite 
of our heavy blankets, wrapped closely about us, we shiv- 
ered as we rode along upon our horses. 

The ride, however, was a lovely one. At j&rst we seemed 
to leave the lake behind us; mounting for some time we 
reached a summit from which it again broke upon our view; 
descending, we constantly caught glimpses of it, with its 
sinuous shores, its lovely mountain backgrounds, its 
islands, and its pretty indian towns. Finally, we again left 
it and rose into a magnificent mountain region, covered 
chiefly with pines. Passing through Ajuno, which lies 
upon a steep slope, we overtook a party of police, mounted 
on horses, taking a group of prisoners to Uruapan. At 
Escondidas, itself a miserable village, we were impressed 
by the mercantile spirit of these Indians. In all these 
villages the houses are constructed of heavy logs or timbers, 
closely and neatly joined; the roofs are shingled with long 
and narrow shingles, and are abruptly four-sloped. At 
every house there was something for sale — food, drink, or 
cigarros. All these houses were built close to the edge of the 
road, and in the middle of the front was a little square 

window, in which the goods were shown. When no trade 

76 



i 



TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 77 

was solicited, these windows were closed with solid wooden 
shutters. Not only, however, was every house a store, 
but on the highway between towns, we passed many places 
where, beneath brush shelters, women offered fruit, food, 
or drink for sale. Usually several such shelters would be 
near together, and the venders had gay times, chatting, 
laughing and singing. Such houses and roadside-selling are 
common through the whole Tarascan region. 

Soon after passing Escondidas, we began a descent, 
which seemed absolutely endless. Time after time we thought 
we had reached the bottom, only to find that we were on a 
terrace from which another drop led us still further down. 
On and on into this bottomless pit we descended to Zira- 
cuaretaro, a striking town. Banana plantings surrounded 
the houses; orange-trees covered with their golden spheres 
reared themselves to the unusual height of thirty feet or 
more; mameys, with their strange nut-brown fruits, and 
coffee-trees, loaded to breaking, were abundant. Amid 
this luxuriant mass of tropical vegetation, houses were 
almost invisible until we were directly in front of them. 
Notwithstanding the enormous descent we had made, it 
appeared to us, when we crossed the stream and began the 
ascent, that we had not really been to the bottom of the 
great valley. For a long distance we mounted through a 
district of sugar-canes; then passed a little settlement of 
rude huts spread out over a reddish space; then, by a gentle 
but circuitous ascent, to a rugged trail which brought us to 
the summit and the edge of the great slope to Uruapan. At 
the further side of the valley and to our left, in a mass of 
green, we saw smoke rising from the factories of Uruapan. 
Crossing one of the characteristic bridges of the district, 
with a pretty shingled roof — four-sloped like those of the 
houses — over it, and with benches at the sides, where 
passers can sit and rest, while looking at the dashing, gurg- 



78 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ling, foaming, water below, — we followed a level road 
between blackberries, wild roses, and other shrubs, to 
Uruapan. 

No town in Mexico is more beautiful. Perpetual spring 
reigns. Although several thousand feet above sea level, 
it is so situated, with reference to mountain slopes and fun- 
nel valleys, that it has a genial climate, where plants flourish 
which are usually found only at lower altitudes. Its fruits 
and "the finest coffee in the world" have rendered the 
town long famous. The houses, bowered in dense groves 
of green, are of the picturesque Tarascan type. The four- 
sloped roofs, now covered with long, narrow shingles, now 
with the dull red tiles, suggest the prettiest pictures in 
Japanese towns. The streets are clean. Through the centre 
of the town dashes a mountain stream of clearest water, 
with the hue of sapphire. This pretty stream furnishes 
power for mills, factories and lighting-plant, and is crossed 
several times by picturesque, roofed bridges, in the shelter 
of which one may spend hours in watching the dashing 
water, foaming cascades, curious potholes worn in the rocky 
banks, and the passing indians. Most Mexican towns are 
contented with one plaza; this one has three, following 
each other closely, separated only by single lines of narrow 
buildings. They are neatly planted, and supplied with 
bandstand and monuments. The town is electric-lighted 
and several hotels had been lately put in readiness to 
receive the crowd of visitors expected with the completion 
of the railroad, a matter of a few months later. 

The prejecto of Uruapan and jeje politico of the district 
is the son-in-law of Governor Mercado, and to him we bore 
a special letter from his father-in-law. The old gentleman 
had been insistent that we should return by Capacuaro and 
Cheran, Indian towns. He said that at the former we 
should find a mogote (mound or heap of stones and dirt) 



TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 79 

which every traveler should see, while at the latter Lum- 
holtz had secured some skulls of exceptional interest, and 
that we should do the same. As our time was short, we 
asked the prejecto to send a messenger to Cheran with 
orders to dig some skulls and have them ready against the 
time of our arrival. That official expressed delight in doing 
our bidding, and we saw the messenger summoned and the 
order placed in his hands, with full direction as to its delivery. 

Meantime, there were objects of interest for us in Urua- 
pan itself. The town is famous for its lacquer work, made 
with aje, like that of Chiapa. Gourds are ornamented, 
fruit-forms are colored after nature, bowls made from fruit 
shells are elaborately decorated, all quite like the Chiapa 
work. What is characteristic of Uruapan are the placques 
and table- tops of wood, decorated with floral designs in 
brilliant colors, upon a background of dark-green, pink, 
blue, yellow, or black. This art is in the hands of a few 
persons, some pure Indians. Visiting them, we found the 
wooden placques and table-tops are brought from one 
of the mountain villages of the Tarascans; they are first 
covered thickly with the background color; upon this the 
pattern is pencilled and then cut out in the lacquered sur- 
face; the color, mixed with oil and aje, as with other sub- 
stances, is then applied with the finger-tips to fill the cut 
patterns; the lustre is then brought out by careful rub- 
bing. The work is striking, and is prized throughout the 
Republic. 

In the same quarter of the town, where this local in- 
dustry is carried on, are many goitrous persons. The dis- 
ease seems to be confined to the one district, but there per- 
haps one-half the people have it, most of them to but a 
slight degree. Occasionally the swelling is notable, and in 
the families affected we find, as usual, deaf-mutism. 

On the morning of New Year's day, we left for Capa- 



So IN INDIAN MEXICO 

cuaro and Cheran. As we rode out from the city, we were 
more than ever impressed with its verdant beauty and 
picturesqueness. The road to Capacuaro was unexpect- 
edly level and good, and we reached the town, which is 
purely indian, by nine o'clock. Women, almost without 
exception, wore the native dress. Goitres were common, 
and some, among the men, were really enormous. Riding 
through the long town, we drew up before the house of the 
jeje de policia (chief of police), and summoned the village 
officials. On their appearance we found that all but the 
jeje himself, were drunk, the secretario in particular being 
almost useless. When we handed him the letter from the 
prefecto he was quite unable to make aught of its grandi- 
loquence. Having looked it through in a dazed way, he 
declared that we were "gringos," "like the one who was 
here last year" (presumably Lumholtz). With some 
severity, I told him he did wrong to call visitors to the town 
by the opprobrious name of gringos, and ordered him to 
read the letter and make known its contents to the jefe. 
He made another effort and then helplessly said — '*Who 
can make anything of such a letter? It is in their idioma." 
Sternly pointing to the signature I said — "The letter is 
from your prejecto and written in his idioma; you see the 
firma.'^ Helplessly shaking his head, he said, "Oh, 
yes, the firma is that of Silvano Martinez, but the letter 
is in your idiomay Seeing that he was of no earthly use, 
I took the letter from him, and, turning to the crowd 
which had gathered, rebuked them for their drunkenness, 
asserting that it was disgraceful for a whole town govern- 
ment to be intoxicated at the same time; that some one 
ought always to be sober enough to attend to business; that 
we had been insulted by being called gringos , and that our 
order had not been read to them because the secretario 
was too drunk to do his business; that there were two ways 



TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 8i 

of dealing with such town governments, and that, unless 
something was done promptly, we would see how they 
would like to go back with us to Uruapan, whence we had 
come. The jefe, who was really not drunk, thereupon 
begged to know what we desired, and the drunken secretario 
was somewhat frightened; the remainder of the official 
body expressed a wish to do only what we wanted. I then 
read the prejecto^s letter in my best manner and added that 
we had come to Capacuaro only at the desire of the gover- 
nor himself, to visit their mogote, and that we ought to wait 
no longer for guidance. At once all was commotion and 
bustle. Bidding the disgraced secretario go to his house 
and stay there, the jeje de policia summoned the rest of his 
company about him, seized his staff of office, buckled on 
his great machete, and took the lead; three policemen, with 
their machetes, followed; two others, unarmed, followed, 
and, with this escort, we started to hunt our ruins on the 
mountain. They proved to be two heaps of rubbish, from 
constructions of stone. Had we had time for serious inves- 
tigation they might have proved of interest; as it was, we 
spent but a few minutes in their inspection, and then, bid- 
ding our drunken escort good-bye, we continued our jour- 
ney. We had planned to go first to Nehuatzen, thence to 
Parracho, and, after visiting Cheran, back again to Nehuat- 
zen. At the mogote, however, we were already near the 
Parracho highway and at once struck into it. Our journey 
led through forests, chiefly of pine, with open glades, at 
intervals; on many of the trees we saw great bunches of 
a parasite that bore honeysuckle-like, yellow flowers. 
Parracho we found lying at the base of mountains at the 
very end of a long stretch of level. It is an unattractive 
town, our only reason for visiting which was to see some- 
thing of the manufacture of its famous rehozos, which differ 
from others in the wide border of white and azure blue silk. 



82 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

which is attached to a netted foundation to form decorative 
patterns, representing birds and animals, or geometric 
figures. The work is curious, and I am inchned to see in it 
a surviving imitation of the ancient feather-work for which 
the ancient Tarascans were famous. From Parracho our 
road led through Aranza to Cheran. Just beyond Aranza 
we passed over the astonishing wash from some summer 
torrent. During the wet season a single rain may fill the 
gorges, sheet the mountain slopes with water, tear great 
trees from their hold, break off mighty rock fragments and 
carry them onward, like wooden blocks, with hundreds 
of tons of finer gravel. At this season there was not a sign 
of water; not a trickling thread was visible in any of the 
gorges; but from their now dried mouths there spread fan- 
shaped deposits many rods in length and breadth, contain- 
ing quantities of blocks of rock that measured from four to 
ten feet in diameter, trunks of trees up to two feet in thick- 
ness, all in the greatest confusion and at places completely 
covering our road to a depth of several feet. We could 
trace the tailing out of the fans of deposit, from their thicker, 
heavier part at the base of the torrent, to their margin on 
the plain; from heavy rock masses weighing tons, through 
smaller masses, into sand and gravel. 

The way to Cheran seemed endless, but at last we 
reached that interesting, great Indian town, when the 
afternoon was nearly spent. It was the New Year, and 
the street celebration of los negritos (the negroes — or 
the little negroes) was in progress. As we rode through 
the streets, however, we attracted much attention and the 
performance was neglected. We rode directly to the town- 
house, entered and asked for the presidente. He was slow 
in appearing and long before he arrived scores of people 
were crowding around the doors and windows to see us 
and know our business. When he arrived, we greeted him 



TO URUAPAN BEFORE THE RAILROAD 83 

in a most friendly way and told him that we had come for 
the skulls. He looked aghast. "The skulls, what skulls, 
sir? " *'The skulls the prejecto ordered you to dig for us." 
By this time, the crowd outside, which had increased with 
every minute, showed uneasiness. The presidente declared 
he knew nothing of any skulls. After we had explained 
the matter more fully, he assured us that no messenger had 
come from the prejecto; this, which at first we thought to 
be a lie, was no doubt true. He was plainly scared. He 
begged us to be careful lest the people, who were ignorant, 
should overhear us. He told us that a year before Don 
Carlos (Lumholtz) had been there ; that he, too, had wanted 
skulls, and that the town officials had given him permission 
to dig some from the graveyard; that this caused so much 
excitement and so many threats that the permission had 
to be revoked. He feared the people had already heard 
our wishes and were even then in an ugly mood — a thing 
which seemed likely from an inspection of the faces in the 
doorway and windows. He said, however, that Don 
Carlos afterward secured some skulls from an ancient burial- 
place not distant from the village, and, if we pleased to wait 
in Cheran through the morrow, as it was now too late, five 
in the evening, to do aught, he would gladly show us the 
burial place of the ancients, where no doubt abundant 
skulls could be secured. Not yet certain that the man was 
telling truth, we spoke to him severely, saying that we should 
report him to the governor for not having obeyed the order 
of the prejecto. At the same time we demanded an official 
document signed by himself as presidente, and by the sec- 
retario, and duly sealed, stating that no messenger had come 
to him from the prejecto. To our surprise this document 
was promptly furnished, good evidence that the prejecto 
had played us false, only pretending to despatch the mes- 
senger whom we had seen started. 



84 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

With profuse apologies and expressions of regret from 
the officials, we left Cheran, hurrying on to Nehuatzen for 
the night. Our chief reason for doing so was that every- 
one who knew of our intention to visit Cheran had shaken 
their heads, remarking "Ah! there the nights are always 
cold." Certainly, if it is colder there than at Nehuatzen, we 
would prefer the frigid zone outright. Nehuatzen is famous 
as the town where the canoes for Lake Patzcuaro are made. 
We had difficulty in securing food and a place to sleep. 
The room in which we were expected to slumber was hung 
with an extensive wardrobe of female garments. These 
we added to the blankets we carried with us, but suffered 
all night long from the penetrating cold. The two Indian 
boys, who accompanied us as guides and carriers, slept in 
the corridor outside our door and when day broke they were 
so cramped and numbed and stiff with cold, that they 
lighted matches and thrust their cold hands into the flames, 
before they could move their finger-joints. We had planned 
to leave at five, but it was too cold to ride until the sun 
should be an hour high, so finally we left at seven. There 
was heavy frost on everything; curved frost crystals pro- 
truded from the soil, and we broke ice a half inch thick in 
water-troughs, unfinished canoes, by the roadside. 

For ten hours we rode, without even stopping for lunch, 
through Sabina and Pichataro, San Juan Tumbio and 
Ajuno, back to comfortable Patzcuaro. 



CHAPTER VIII 

TLAXCALA 
(1898) 

T ^/"E have always loved the State of Tlaxcala and its 
' ^ quaint little capital city of the same name. For more 
than a dozen years its governor has been Prospero Cahuan- 
tzi, a pure-blood indian, whose native language is Aztec. 
He is a large, well built man, with full face and little black 
eyes that are sunken deeply into the flesh. He is a man of 
some force and energy. The population of his little state, 
the most densely populated in the Republic, is almost en- 
tirely indian, and it at once fears, hates, and respects him. 
Having made several previous visits to the city, and having 
always been graciously received by Don Prospero, we 
thought it hardly necessary to carry with us our usual letters 
of recommendation from the Federal authorities. 

Just before we were ready to visit Tlaxcala, while we 
were in the City of Mexico, we learned that Governor Cahu- 
antzi was there, on business. We thought it best to call 
upon him, explaining our proposed work and asking his 
interest. So to the Hotel Sanz, where he always stops when 
in the Capital, we went. We called twice without finding 
him and our third call appeared to be as unsuccessful, but 
just as we were leaving, resolved not to try again, we met 
the governor alighting from his carriage at the door. 
Intercepting him, we asked a moment's interview, which 
W2LS granted, though with ill grace. It was plain that he 
was sadly out of humor. Apologizing to him for our intru- 
sion at so late an hour and so immediately after his return 

85 



86 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

to his hotel, we told him of our projected visit, described 
the measurements, photographs and other data we were 
gathering, reminding him that two years earlier he had 
heard our plans and promised his assistance. In a some- 
what gentler mood, he told us we might visit Tlaxcala and 
that he would aid us, but he must have a little time "for 
preparing the soil;" that all his people were Indians, and 
that our work would necessarily be considered with sus- 
picion. Upon our asking him how much time would be 
needed "to prepare the soil," we received no definite reply. 
He, himself, planned to leave for home the following morn- 
ing, Friday; so we suggested that we would go first to 
Puebla, and reach his capital on Monday. He plainly con- 
sidered this somewhat hasty, but grunted his assent, and 
we left him, somewhat surprised at his unusual gruffness 
and lack of interest. 

Early Monday morning, we appeared upon the scene. 
After breakfast we betook ourselves to the state palace; 
the governor was already in his reception room, but, instead 
of being ushered promptly into his presence, as had always 
happened in our previous visits, we were left to sit two hours 
in the outer office. Finally, on our displaying some impa- 
tience, a message was again taken to his Excellency, and 
a few minutes later, the jeje politico of the district bustled 
past us into the carefully guarded reception chamber. He 
did not long remain there, and, on coming out into the 
office where we were waiting, brusquely asked, "Are you 
the persons who want to measure heads? Well, they are 
waiting for you out there in the corridor; why don't you 
go to work? " Seizing our instruments, blanks and camera, 
we hurried to the corridor and began operations. Three 
or four were measured in quick succession; then, when I 
cried, ^'Otro^^ (another), the jefe's eyes began to bulge. That 
one measured, and another called for, he seemed half-dis- 



TLAXCALA 87 



tracted; desperation seized him; as he faintly repeated 
^^Otro,''^ he looked wildly around in search of subjects and 
it was plain that he had not begun to realize what demands 
we planned to make upon him. Before the noonday rest, 
we had measured fourteen subjects, but the ye/e'^ personal 
interest had ceased, and he had completely disappeared 
from the scene of action. When we returned at three 
o'clock to resume work, only the guards were there to help 
us. One and another subject, invited to be measured, 
showed no interest in advancing science. So, Mr. Wilson 
went to see the jeje in his office; the old man was furious 
and actually ran out, with the statement that he had plenty 
of his own work to do. When this scene had been reported, 
it in no wise increased the readiness of subjects to undergo 
the operation. Finding that we were accomplishing nothing, 
we decided upon desperate measures. Going to the office 
of the governor's private secretary, we insisted on his telling 
the chief executive that we were losing time, that no one was 
assisting us, that subjects were obdurate and stubborn, and 
that something must be promptly done. We waited but 
a few minutes. The fiat went forth; the jeje politico ap- 
peared, puffing and blowing, and wildly excited. He was 
closeted a moment with the governor. On his reappear- 
ance, we greeted him cordially, and told him that the people 
present would not be measured and indicated one particu- 
larly stubborn subject, who was dealt with, promptly, and 
without gloves. The jeje remained long enough to re- 
establish order, though, under his breath, he muttered curses 
and threats, and expressed his feeling to any official, who 
chanced to pass. He said the business was driving him 
clean crazy; that he was doing what he did, not for love 
of us, but from respect to the orders of his chief. Having 
set the ball to rolling, he left us and there were no more 
delays. 



88 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

When the labor of the day was over, we stopped at the 
jefe^s office to inform him that we should continue work 
the following day, and emphasized the fact that we wished 
one hundred cases, and, as yet, had less than half that num- 
ber. We suggested that systematic arrangements would 
not only facilitate oicr labor, but would lessen his own task. 
The result was evident; on the following day delegations, 
ordered by the jeje, and consisting of from six to a dozen 
persons each, began to come in from the outlying villages. 
This made our work easy, indeed. In one respect, Tlax- 
cala differs from all the other Mexican states with which 
we are acquainted. Most of the people live in very little 
towns, which cluster around the larger places. Thus, 
around the capital city, Tlaxcala, there are some seventeen 
of these small pueblos. 

Working at the palace, we had secured almost no women 
for measurement. Asking the advice of the cura in the 
matter, he recommended that we should go to some one of 
the neighboring Indian villages; that he would give us a 
letter to the juez and that, thus, we would secure our sub- 
jects easily. He suggested San Estevan and wrote the 
promised letter to the juez of that village. San Estevan is 
a pretty village, near the summit of some low gray hills of 
tufa, behind which rises a background of higher hills of the 
sam.e material. The slope is terraced for the houses, which 
are all built of adobe bricks and have flat roofs. The 
"three part house," of the ancient Aztec type — godhouse, 
kitchen, and granary — is better shown in this state than 
almost any other part of the Republic. The granary, or 
cuezcomate, is particularly characteristic. It is built of clay, 
in the form of a great vase or urn, open at the top, above 
which is built a little thatch to shed rain and to protect the 
contents. The cuezcomate is often ten feet high. One or 
more of them is found in connection with every house. 



m^ 




TLAXCALA 89 



The juez lived in a comfortable house of two rooms, 
half of which is used at present for the boy's school, of 
which his son is teacher. He received us graciously, and 
was pleased to receive a letter from the padre, though he 
stated it was not a government order and carried no actual 
authority; that if the women cared to be measured, well 
and good, but if not, no force could be employed. The 
appearance of the camera, however, interested him ; plainly, 
he desired to have a family group photographed; he hinted 
at this so broadly that, taking him to one side, I whispered 
that it was, of course, impossible to take family groups for 
everyone, but if we secured the twenty-five women without 
delay, notwithstanding the fact that we had no more author- 
itative document than a cura^s letter, the group should be 
taken. The effect was immediate. The police were sum- 
moned and sent through the village to bring in women for 
measurement and naught was said about their right of 
refusal. 

When, toward evening, we returned from San Estevan, 
tired but quite satisfied with the day's work, we found a 
delegation of more than a dozen men waiting for us in the 
plaza. We did not need so large a number to complete 
our work, and it was nearly dark; we would gladly have 
dismissed them and run our chances of securing others the 
next day. But neither they nor the jeje politico were to be 
bluffed. So we marched into the corridor, lighted candles 
and got to work. When those lacking to make our full 
hundred had been measured, we proposed to let the others 
go, but they were not to be thus got rid of, and insisted on 
being measured as such were the orders of the governor. 
We were not through until long after dark, and we were 
ravenously hungry. 

This delegation was one of the most attractive, clean, 
and intelligent with whom we had dealt. It was from Los 



go IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Reyes, a little town at a distance of about half a league. 
It was headed by the village juez. After we had completed 
the measuring, they stood, shifting their sombreros from 
hand to hand and plainly wishing to say something further; 
finally, mustering courage, the jtiez and secretario advanced 
and stated that it was the town's desire to have a picture 
taken of the church, with the saint and people of the village 
before the door. Would it be possible for us to make the 
picture and on what conditions ? We replied that time was 
precious and that the trip, if it involved a loss of time, was 
quite impossible; but if they supplied carriers to take the 
instruments to and from their village, and had all ready before 
seven in the morning, we would make it. Delighted, the 
officials then inquired what we would wish for breakfast; 
we answered French bread and red wine. When we looked 
out of our window, a little before seven, we saw our party 
ready and waiting. The juez, the secretario, and two 
others made the company. A basket, carefully carried by 
one, was suspected to contain our breakfast. The burdens 
were shouldered, and we started out in the cool, fresh 
morning air, for the village, where we arrived in about haK 
an hour. It is a town of less than one hundred people, 
situated upon a little mountain, hidden, to one looking from 
Tlaxcala, by intervening hills. We were received in the 
townhouse, which is a portion of the old church building; 
mass was in progress, and we told those who received us, 
that we had no wish to interfere with their religious duties; 
that those who wished, might go to service. Most went, 
but two or three were left as a committee of entertainment. 
They took us to a view-point from which there was a mag- 
nificent valley to be seen. And, here, we found one of the 
finest echoes possible. Rockets were exploded and the 
noise was echoed from hill to hill around the great amphi- 
theatre; it was like a long reverberation of thunder, but 








The Village and its Saint; Los Reyes 




CUEZCOMATE, OR GRANARY ; SaN NiCOLAS PANOTLA 



TLAXCALA 91 



it sank and swelled, sank and swelled, repeatedly, until it 
seemed that it would never stop. Service over, the pro- 
cession formed, and the santito was brought out before the 
church. The townspeople were arranged and the view 
taken. We were then invited in to breakfast, which was 
fine. There were plenty of French rolls and the red wine 
brought from town, and a great heap of enchiladas, fresh 
lettuce and eggs. After eating, we expressed a wish to 
hear the village drum, a great huehuetl. This musical 
instrument is a reminder of the olden times ; it is not found 
everywhere, but a number of indian towns possess one, 
which is kept to be played on festal occasions. The one 
as Los Reyes was some three feet or so in height, a hollow 
cylinder of wood with a membrane stretched across the 
upper end ; it was painted blue. A chair of state was placed 
for me in the little patio. After I was seated the three musi- 
cians took their places, — one played the great huehuetl, a 
second beat the tambour or ordinary drum, the third per- 
formed upon the chirimiya, a shrill wooden pipe. It was 
the first time we had really heard a huehuetl. The player 
used two sticks with padded heads, beating with great force 
in excellent time. The booming of the instruments was 
audible to a great distance. The whole village had gathered, 
and in a mometary lull in the music, I told the people of 
the ancient use of the huehuetl; that Bernal Diaz, in his 
history of the Conquest of Mexico, tells us what feelings 
filled the hearts of the Spaniards, when they heard the great 
huehuetl, in the temple of the ancient city of Tenochtitlan ; 
then it was chiefly beaten when human victims were being 
sacrificed to the gods, and the soldiers knew that some fellow- 
countryman, or a Tlaxcalan ally, was dying. Never have 
T given a public lecture, that was listened to with more 
attention or greater appreciation. 

The day we measured women at San Estevan, we found 



92 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

an indian mason there at work, whom we had measured 
at Tlaxcala, and with whom, on one occasion, we had some 
conversation. He was disgusted at the conduct of the 
women while undergoing measurement, and at evening 
said, "Sir, it is a pity for you to waste your time in a town 
like this; these people are little better than animals; in my 
town there is great enthusiasm over your work, and by 
going there you might do your will and find people with 
minds, not beasts." There was really no work left to be 
done, but we desired to see a town where there was great 
enthusiasm over our investigations. Hence, we arranged 
with Ignacio Cempoalteca to visit his pueblo of San Nicolas 
Panotla. Accordingly, on the afternoon of the day when 
we visited Los Reyes, we went across the valley to Panotla, 
Ignacio and an older brother, Jose, met us at the hotel, 
where — excusing himself on account of the mason-work 
at San Estevan, which could not wait — Ignacio left us, 
assuring us that Jose would do everything for us. This 
was quite true, and we found Panotla all that it had been 
painted. 

Jose led us directly to their home. The walls were 
well built of stone set in adobe mortar; they were smoothly 
coated with a snowy plaster; the supporting walls of the 
little terrace on which the house was built were also well 
constructed and it was with some pride that Jose told us that 
the work had all been done by himself and Ignacio. Jose 
is married and has a wife and three children; Ignacio is 
a bachelor; a younger brother. Carmen, is also unmarried 
— he has taught himself free-hand and architectural draw- 
ing and showed us examples of his work. The old father 
and mother own the home and received us hospitably. 
Jose guided us through the village, where we photographed 
whatever took our fancy, entered houses, examined all that 
interested us, and really found enthusiasm for our work 




The Ancient Drum — Huehuetl; Los Reyes 




Fiesta at Cholula; Day of San Antonio Abau 



^ 



TLAXCALA 



93 



everywhere. Before the churchyard stands a quaint old cross 
of stone, dated 1728, upon which are represented all the 
symbols of Christ's passion; a lonsj inscription in Aztec 
is cut into the base. Close by the church, we visited the 
boy's school, where we found some forty dark-skinned, 
black-eyed, youngsters, whose mother-speech is Aztec. 
We proposed to photograph them, so they were grouped out- 
side the schoolhouse, but not until a pair of national flags and 
the portrait of the governor, Prospero Cahuantzi, were 
fixed upon the background wall. 

After the picture had been taken, we told the maestro 
we would like to hear the boys sing. It was plain he did 
not consider singing their strong forte, but our wishes were 
met. One boy, standing, wielded the baton, beating time. 
When the singing was done with, the maestro said he would 
like us to see the class in arithmetic, if we had time. Ac- 
cordingly fourteen or fifteen boys, from ten to fourteen years 
of age, stepped out upon the dirt floor; we were told that 
they could work examples in percentage, interest, bonds 
and mortgages, discount, alligation — which did we pre- 
fer ? Truth to say, it was so long since we had studied alli- 
gation, that we had really forgotten what it was, and so 
expressed a preference for it. "Very good, sir," said the 
maestro. "Will you not propound a problem?" From 
this quandary we escaped by stating that we could not think 
of doing so; that we had every confidence in his fairness 
and that he had better give it, as the boys were more accus- 
tomed to him. We have visited many classes of the same 
grade and age in the United States and have never seen one 
that would surpass them in quickness, accuracy, and clear- 
ness of explanation. After our trip through San Nicolas 
Panotla, Jose took us back to his house, where, meantime, 
a dinner had been made ready. 



94 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Weeks later, we learned the probable reason of the 
governor's gniffness, which was in such marked contrast 
to his previous treatment, that it puzzled us considerably. 
At about the time of our visit, a number of wealthy haci- 
enderos, of the State of Tlaxcala, had been arrested for 
counterfeiting silver money. They were men whose ma- 
guey fields brought them enormous incomes; one would 
suppose their legitimate sources of wealth would have con- 
tented them! But such was not the case, and they had gone 
into wholesale counterfeiting. The fraudulent coin had long 
been known and diligent efforts were made to find the crimi- 
nals, efforts at last crowned with success. The guilt was fixed 
without a doubt, the parties were arrested, tried, and sen- 
tenced. Every attempt was made to secure their pardon, 
in vain. Governor Cahuantzi is an old friend of President 
Diaz, believed to have great influence with him. Men of 
wealth, interested in the release and pardon of the criminals, 
promised Cahuantzi ten thousand dollars in case of his 
successful intercession with the President in the matter. 
These details, not generally known, we received from a 
source respectable and trustworthy, and we believe them 
true. Anxious to gain the reward, and probably feeling 
certain of his influence with Diaz, the old man made the 
journey to Mexico. It was the very time when we called 
upon him. When we had our interview, he had just seen 
the President, and it is hinted that, not only did Don Por- 
firio refuse to pardon the counterfeiters, but showed a dan- 
gerous inclination to investigate the reason of the indian 
governor's intervention. No wonder that the old man was 
gruff and surly to his visitors, after the loss of ten thousand 
dollars which he had looked upon as certain, and with un- 
certainty as to the final outcome of his unlucky business. 



CHAPTER IX 

ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 
(1898) 

T^HE morning train from Guadalajara brought us to 
-■- Negrete at about two in the afternoon, and we had 
soon mounted to the top of the clumsy old coach, which 
was dragged by six horses. The road to Zamora runs 
through a rich farming district. For the greater part of 
the distance the road is level and passes amidst great ha- 
ciendas. The corn crop had been abundant and carts were 
constantly coming and going from and to the fields. These 
carts were rectangular, with side walls some four or five 
feet in height, made of cornstalks set close together and 
upright. All were drawn by oxen. Most of the carts had 
a light cross, made of cornstalks, set at the front end, to pro- 
tect the load from adverse influences. Great numbers of 
men, dressed in leather trousers drawn over their cotton 
drawers, in single file lined past us, with great baskets full 
of com strapped on their backs. Here and there, in the 
cornfields, groups of such men were cutting the ripened ears 
from the plants. 

We now and then met groups of men bringing great 
timbers from the mountains fifty or sixty miles away. 
These timbers were many feet in length and trimmed to a 
foot square; from four to six made a load. The cart upon 
which they were carried consisted of a pair of wheels and 
an axle; one end of the timbers was attached to this, and 
the other was fastened to the yoke of oxen. It was rare 
that we met with a single timber cart, as four or five usually 

9S 



96 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

went together. The drivers who were in charge of them 
were pure Tarascans. 

For a considerable distance a fine slope rose to our left, 
strewn with loose rock masses, and covered with a growth 
which was chiefly pitahaya, some of the plants attaining 
the size of grown trees. Many of them presented an ap- 
pearance which we had not seen elsewhere — the tips and 
upper part of the upright branches being as white as if 
intentionally whitewashed; the simple explanation of this 
strange appearance was that the branches in question had 
served as buzzards' roosts. Our journey of twenty-five 
miles was made with two relays of horses. After perhaps 
three hours' riding, we reached the Zamora River, which we 
followed for some distance. From the time when we began 
to follow this stream, our road was almost a dead level. At 
many places along the river, we saw a peculiar style of irri- 
gation machine, a great wooden scoop or spoon with long 
handle swung between supporting poles. The instrument was 
worked by a single man and scooped up water from the 
river, throwing it upon the higher land and into canals 
which carried it through the fields. Sometimes two of 
these scoops were supported side by side upon a single 
frame, and were worked in unison by two persons. At the 
only town of any consequence upon the road, we found 
numbers of interesting hot springs which might really be 
called geysers. They were scattered at intervals over the 
flat mud plain for a distance of a half mile or more. We 
could see jets of steam of more or less vigor rising from a 
score or so at a time. At some of these the water really 
boiled, and we saw it bubbling and tossing to a height of a 
foot or so above the margin of the spring. Groups of women, 
laughing and talking or singing snatches of songs, were 
washing clothes at several of these hot springs, and the gar- 
ments were spread out over the bushes and trees to dry. 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 97 

At one little geyser, bubbling up in the very middle of the 
road, as we passed we saw a boy pelting the water with 
stones and mud in order to make it mad and see it spout. 
The plain was sprinkled here and there with thickets of 
acacia and mesquite. In the early evening the breeze 
came loaded with the fragrance of the golden balls of the 
acacia. There was bright moonlight, and we could see the 
country, even after sunset. The latter portion of the jour- 
ney was through low swampy ground, much of the time 
over causeways. 

There are few towns in central Mexico, not on a rail- 
road, to be compared with Zamora. It is large, clean, 
well built, and presents an air of unusual comfort. The 
main plaza is large, and finely planted with palms, orange- 
trees, roses and flowering shrubs. The orange-trees were 
in full bloom and the air was heavy with their odor. The 
town is electric-lighted and has a good system of waterworks. 
The great church, with two slender towers, fills up the whole 
of one side of the plaza, while the other three are ocupied 
with business houses. The amount of life in the town at 
night surprised us. Even after ten o'clock, many were on 
the streets, and the dulce stands, ca]e tables and loto hall were 
doing a large business. Few towns in Mexico are so com- 
pletely under priestly influence, but few again appear as 
prosperous, progressive, and well-behaved. Two distinct 
types of houses predominate, the older and the newer. 
The old style house is such as is characteristic of many other 
Tarascan towns, but is here more picturesquely developed 
than in most ' places. The low-sloped, heavily-tiled roof 
projects far over the street and is supported below by pro- 
jecting timbers, which are trimmed at the end to give a 
pleasing finish. So far do these roofs project over the side- 
walk that the water is thrown into the middle of the street 
and the footpath below is well sheltered. The new style 



98 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

of house, which is required by the recent laws, has an almost 
flat roof which ends squarely at the sidewalk, and from 
which long tin pipes project to throw the water into the 
streets. Here, as so frequently, the old fashion is at once 
more comfortable and more artistic. 

We spent the morning in efforts to secure horses, but 
finally secured a man, Don Nabor, who agreed to accom- 
pany us with five animals. The party consisted of myself, 
my interpreter, my plaster- worker, and Don Nabor. Each 
of us was mounted, and a fifth horse carried the plaster and 
other luggage. Leaving at noon, we took the long road 
past Jacona, a little town famous for its fruit. Having 
passed there, after a long journey, we looked down from the 
height almost directly upon the place whence we had started. 
The scene was of unusual beauty — the wide-spreading, 
flat valley, with its fields of wheat and clustered trees, pre- 
sented a mass of rich green coloring, in the midst of which 
stood the pretty city. After a long climb, we descended 
into a valley in which lies Tangancicuaro, a large town with 
a plaza full of fine, great trees, where we ate at a quaint little 
meson. From here we pushed on to Chilchota, the head town 
of the Once Pueblos. From the crest, just above the town, 
we looked down upon a level valley, green with new wheat. 
Entering the town a little after five, we rode up to the meson 
of San Francisco, near the little plaza. It was with diffi- 
culty that we secured a room containing a single bed, with 
mattress, and two mats. There was nothing at all to eat 
at the meson, but on strolling out to the plaza we found 
some Indian women selling atole and bread. With this we 
were compelled to be content until morning, paying seven 
centavos for our four suppers. Hunting up the presidente of 
the town, we found him sitting, with his court, on benches 
in the plaza. He was a pleasant, rather dressy young man, 
but at once took interest in our work, and told us that 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 99 

Huancito was the best town for our bust work, as the 
population there is primitive and purely indian. 

The Once Pueblos — eleven towns — are famous through 
this portion of the Republic. Several of them are purely 
indian; Chilchota is largely mestizo. The towns lie in a 
long line on the side of the little valley, at the foot of 
the bordering hills. Between some, spaces of considerable 
extent intervene; others are so close together that, in riding 
through them, one sees no line of separation. All consist 
of adobe houses, of a rich brown color, roofed with tiles. 
Some of the churches are of considerable size, but are also 
built of brown adobe. The Once Pueblos are famous for 
their pottery, and in some of them almost every house has 
its little kiln or oven. Fruit is cultivated, and the houses 
are frequently embowered in trees; in many yards are bee- 
hives. The valley is abundantly watered with little streams 
of perfect clearness. 

The presidente had insisted that the school teacher at 
Huancito would prove invaluable. He gave us a letter of 
introduction to him, and an order upon the authorities. 
We were at once given possession of the schoolhouse for 
our work, and I started out to find a subject. Almost the 
first person encountered was a young man of twenty-three 
years, who presented the pure Tarascan type. I at once 
told him that he was the very man we wanted; that we 
planned to make a picture of him in plaster; at the same 
time, I described the method of work, and while talking, 
holding him by the arm, drew him over toward the school- 
house. Almost before be realized it, we were ready for the 
task. As he removed his shirt and prepared for the opera- 
tion of oiling and the application of the plaster, he looked 
somewhat sombre. After seeing the work well begun, I 
stepped outside and sat in the portico until it should be done. 
The first piece of plaster had been applied, the subject had 



loo IN INDIAN MEXICO 

been turned, and was lying ready for the second application. 
At this moment, an indian maiden, with dishevelled hair, 
came rapidly running across the plaza toward the school- 
house. Rushing past me, she entered the school-room, 
and seeing the subject lying on the floor clasped her hands 
and cried, "Florencito! My Florencito, why wait here? 
Stay not with these cruel men; flee with me! " Seizing him 
by the hand, they dislodged the plaster from his shoulders 
and started for the door, but catching sight of me, cast a 
glance around, saw the open window, and leaping through 
it, dashed off home. Up to this time the local authorities 
had shown an interest in our work and a willingness to aid. 
Calling the chief of police, I bade him and the teacher seek 
our subject and bring him back for the completion of the 
operation. "But, sir," said the chief of police, "suppose 
he does not wish to come ? " "Why are you chief of police ? " 
was my reply. The teacher, who is himself a mestizo and 
despises the poor indians in his charge, was loud in his 
complaints. He vigorously declared that what these people 
needed was a second Cortez, that they had never been prop- 
erly conquered, and, with the chief of police, he started out 
\_iox the new conquest. After an hour or more of waiting, 
we saw them reappear with Florencito. But humanity is 
ever loath to admit defeat. As he passed us, he grumbled 
that he saw no good reason for such a fuss, as he had simply 
gone to eat his breakfast. 

Having completed the work with this subject, we sug- 
gested that others should be brought, but met with a prompt 
refusal. The judge and the chief of police both declared 
that the people did not wish to have busts made, and that 
they wou\d bring no more. In vain I suggested that a 
meeting of the townspeople should be called together in 
order that we might address them and explain the purpose 
of our visit. It was impossible to move the officials. Fin- 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUELBOS loi 

ally I told the judge that I should send a mounted messen- 
ger, who had accompanied us from the presidente, to Chil- 
chota to report the failure of the town officials to do their 
duty. He promptly declared that he was going to Chil- 
chota himself to see the presidente in the matter. Sure 
enough, when my messsenger was ready, he had made his 
preparations, and the two departed together to present 
the different sides of the question. Neither returned until 
we were through for the day. During the afternoon we 
secured two more subjects, and by nightfall had three good 
busts as the result of the day's labor. Then we faced new 
difficulties. Carriers could not be had for love nor money. 
What was wanted were three men, one to carry each bust 
back to Chilchota, where we planned to spend the night. 
Finally, after loss of time and temper, each of us shouldered 
a bust and rode back on horseback with our trophies. 

We soon discovered that the eleven towns were in a 
ferment of excitement. Most dreadful tales were rife with 
regard to us and our work. Some asserted that we cut off 
heads and hung them up to dry; that in drying, they turned 
white. Others reported that with knives, made for the 
purpose, we sliced off the ears of unfortunate indians, 
close to their heads. Still others reported that we had a 
frightful instrument which was fitted into the nose, and by 
means of which we tore strips of flesh and skin from the 
face of the subject. It was said, and quite likely truly, that 
they were arming in all the houses; that machetes, guns, 
pistols, and clubs were laid convenient to hand. 

The next day was Sunday, and we made no attempt to 
continue work. It was market-day, and indians from all 
the pueblos had gathered in the plaza to buy and sell. All 
•were pure in blood and spoke Tarascan. Fruits, sugar- 
cane, corn, tortillas J atole, coffee, were the chief staples. 
Stocks of pottery were attractively displayed. Two char- 



I02 IN INDIAN MEXICO 



acteristic wares are both pretty. Most typical, perhaps, 
is the black and green ware which is made into bowls, plates, 
mugs, and pitchers. The clay of which it is baked is 
local and dark brown in color; a white earth applied to this, 
on baking, gives rise to a rich metallic green glaze. Designs 
are painted upon this in black. This black and green ware 
goes far and wide, and everywhere is recognized as coming 
from the Once Pueblos. At Huancito and some other 
pueblos, they make little canteras with a red ground and 
decorative designs in black and white. One thing, offered 
in the market, was new to us, dishes full of ucuares — 
long, irregular, swollen, dry, brown objects that looked 
like stewed worms with thick and fleshy skins. One cen- 
tavo bought far more than any person would be likely to 
eat; even after having been stewed in sugar, they were 
bitter, and had a foul srnell that was most unpleasant; they 
appeared to be roots or tubers of some plant. 

Naturally, our work had attracted much attention in 
Chilchota. No one of the many dozen visitors who came 
to see us at the meson was so profoundly impressed as a boy 
of fourteen, named Ignacio. Appearing early in the morn- 
ing, he remained with us almost all the hours of the twenty- 
four. Thinking that the effect on the villagers might be 
good, I decided to ride in the afternoon through the pueblos. 
When the presidente discovered my intention, he insisted 
upon supplying a mounted and armed escort, and at the 
same time gave me a general letter to the eleven towns, in 
-which strict orders were given that my wishes should be 
respected, and dire threats made in case any one should 
show me aught but the greatest consideration. Ignacio 
accompanied me. Riding through the towns, we passed 
far enough beyond Huancito to see the most remote of the 
eleven pueblos. They are separated somewhat from the 
rest, and lie rather higher up in a bend of the valley. Every- 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 103 

where I took some pains to talk with the people,' to visit 
their houses, to examine their pottery, their bees and their 
growing crops, as I felt that such an interest would help 
us in our work. On our return, Ignacio told me that he 
should stay to dinner with us, as he much preferred to do 
so to going home. He also told me that it would be a great 
pity to lose the theatre, which was to take place that even- 
ing. Accordingly, after dinner was over, we went to see 
the play. I expected that at that season of the year it would 
be a pastorela — and in fact it had been so announced. It 
was, however, a true drama, and one of the funniest — 
unintentionally — imaginable. The stage was set in the 
middle of the paiio of a large house. The boy insisted that 
we would be late, and so we went at 7:15, although the bill 
announced the hour as 8. The spectators brought their 
own chairs with them. Except a few youngsters, no one 
arrived before 9, and the curtain at last rose at a quarter 
before eleven. Among the last to arrive was the presidente 
and his party. He was resplendent in a cape of crimson 
velvet with brilliant yellow facings. Hardly was his party 
seated, when we were politely invited to sit with them. 
Three acts were rendered, and while waiting for the fourth, 
one of the party declared that there would be eleven more. 
This gave the presidente an opportunity to relate an experi- 
ence of his own. On one occasion, after watching a play 
from seven in the evening until four in the morning, the 
stage broke down; the management appeared and apolo- 
gized regarding the accident, particularly, since some 
twenty acts were still to have been rendered. Our play, 
however, turned out to have had but eight acts, and one of 
these was omitted. When it should have been given, the 
whole troupe appeared upon the platform; the manager 
announced the reason why the act would not be given, but 
promised that on the following Sunday, in another play, 



I04 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

an extra act should be inserted, in order that all might 
receive the full value of their money. Our play ended at 
one, when the audience dispersed. 

Needing but two more subjects, we looked about Chil- 
chota the next day, hoping to find Indians from the 
more remote villages, who might permit their busts to be 
made. Two excellent cases were found. The last was a 
man from Carapan, the most remote of tlie eleven towns. 
He was a man of forty years, whose father accompanied him, 
and both were for a long time dubious about the operation. 
Finally, however, consent was given and the bust was 
made. As he arose and dressed to go, I said, "Did I tell 
you the truth? Did the operation hurt you, or did it not? 
Was there a reason why you should not have your bust 
made? " He promptly answered, "Sir, you told me truth; 
the operation did not hurt me and there surely is no harm 
in it; but, sir, you can hardly believe what an excitement 
this work has caused in our to^vn. Yesterday, in the mar- 
ket-place at Chilchota, there were more than twenty men 
from Carapan who carried weapons in their clothing. We 
had selected leaders and arranged signals, and at the first 
■sign. of an attack from your party, we were prepared to sell 
our lives dearly." 

It was a work of time to fill the moulds and pack the 
busts. Before we were ready to start upon our journey, it 
was half -past four in the afternoon. True wisdom would 
have suggested waiting until morning. Time, however, 
was precious, and I hoped to make Cheran that night; 
consequently, though against the advice of many, we started 
out, with eight leagues to go, over a road with a bad reputa- 
tion, and at some points difficult to traverse. For a little 
distance, we followed the familiar trail down through the 
pueblos, but at Tanaquillo we turned up into the mountain. 
The ascent was steady imtil we reached the pass, through 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 



105 



which an icy wind drove down upon us. We could hope 
to make the distance in six hours. At first we met many 
persons, all of whom warned us that we would be late in 
arriving, and recommended that we should stop at Rancho 
Seco. We had no intention of so doing, but knew that we 
must turn at that point into a new road. Between sunset 
and bright moonlight, there was an interval of darkness, 
and in that interval we must have passed the turning which 
led to Rancho Seco. At all events, we presently found our- 
selves entirely at a loss, wandering over a rocky hill covered 
with brush, amid which the trail had entirely disappeared. 
Retracing, as well as we could, our road, we finally found 
ourselves upon another trail which we followed until 9:30, 
when we met a little band of Indians, the first whom we had 
seen for a long time. From them we found that we were 
not upon the road for Cheran, but at the edge of a slope at 
the bottom of which was a little indian town, Tanaco. 
Descending to it, we found a house where they agreed to 
shelter us for the night, and in the tienda near by we bought 
hard bread and old cheese. We were sheltered in a sub- 
stantially built room, into which the cold air did not 
penetrate. The Indians with whom we were staying were 
unusually intelligent ; a number of books, including a large 
dictionary, lay upon the table, and the men, who crowded 
in upon us, were anxious to learn the English words for 
common things. This was an experience which rarely 
happened to us in indian Mexico. The people, however, 
were not quite sure of our intentions, and Nabor said that 
when he went to water the horses, a committee of village 
folk waited upon him, asking whether we were the party 
of white men who had been skinning live indians over in 
the Once Pueblos. 

There were four leagues between us and Cheran, and 
many more beyond it to Patzcuaro, where we hoped to 



io6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

arrive the next night. Accordingly, we made an early 
start. Our host agreed to pilot us over the indistinct and 
tortuous bridle-path to the highroad. Many little moun- 
tains, almost artificially regular, arose in the otherwise plain 
country. As we rode along the trail we saw the church of 
Parracho far behind us in the distance. The latter part of 
the road, after Cheran was once in sight, seemed hopelessly 
long, but a little before ten o'clock we pulled up at the 
meson. We at once made arangements for food for our- 
selves and the horses, and determined to rest until noon. 
Our reputation had preceded us. I asked a child at the 
meson to bring me a mug of water. When he brought it, 
I noticed that the mug was of the characteristic black and 
green ware of the Once Pueblos, but asked the boy where 
it was made. With a cunning look, he answered, " O yes, 
that comes from where you people have been, — up at the 
Once Pueblos." And yet we had not come over the road 
from the Once Pueblos, but by the main highway from 
Parracho. 

Rested and refreshed, we started at 12:30 for the long 
fourteen leagues of journey. We passed Pichataro, where 
the round paddles for Patzcuaro canoes are made, and 
where the applewood, so prized as material for spear-throw- 
ers, is procured. We passed Sabina, where the canoes 
themselves are hollowed out, miles from their launching 
place, to which they must be carried over mountains. Each 
town we passed made me more and more uneasy, as I knew 
that Nabor contemplated revolt. He did not like the idea 
of too long a journey for his horses. He wished to stop 
long before the goal that I had fixed. When we left the last 
of the important towns behind us, I felt for the first time 
secure. It was now dark, and we found the roads far 
worse than we remembered them. They were worn into 
deep gullies, into which our horses fell and over which they 



ZAMORA AND THE ONCE PUEBLOS 107 

stumbled. Long before reaching Ajuno I felt convinced 
that we had missed the road, but we floundered on, and 
never was sight more welcome than the light of fires shin- 
ing through the cane walls of the wretched huts of that 
miserable town. Here there was a final council regarding 
resting for the night. The whole party, except myself, 
considered Ajuno as a capital resting-place. All yielded, 
however, and we continued on our way. It was almost 
midnight when we rode up to the hotel, upon the plaza in 
quaint old Patzcuaro. All were cross and tired; neither 
crossness nor weariness were helped when we were told that 
there was no room for us at the inn. We made such vigor- 
ous representations, however, that the doors were finally 
thrown open. An old store-house was cleaned out and 
supplied with decent beds, and a good supper was served. 



CHAPTER X 

THE BOY WITH THE SMILE 
(1898) 

T T is doubtful whether the common people of any country 
-*- are so rarely surprised, or taken unaware, as those of 
Mexico. At a moment's notice, the commonest Indian, 
who may have scarcely been outside of his own town in all 
his life, may start to go across the country. Astonishing 
incidents appear to create no more surprise in their minds 
than the ordinary affairs of every day. In January, 1898, 
we revisited Cholula. As we alighted from the street-car 
we noticed a boy, some fourteen years old, whose most strik- 
ing characteristic was his smile. He wished to serve as 
guide, to show us the pyramid, the convents, the chapel of 
the natives. On assuring him that we knew far more about 
the lions of his town than he, he was in no wise abashed, 
but joined himself to us for the remainder of the day. He 
accompanied us to see the blessing of the animals in the great 
churchyard. He displayed an interesting knowledge of 
English, answering "yes" quite perfectly to every sort of 
question, and repeating the two words, which are well known 
the whole world over as American-English, on all conceiv- 
able occasions. When at evening he saw us safely on the 
street-car he left us with the same smile with which he had 
received us. On our next visit to Cholula much the same 
thing happened, but learning that we planned to stop at 
Cuauhtlantzinco on our way to Puebla, he stole a ride upon 
the car, for the sake of accompanying us. He was a rather 

handy boy, good-natured and anxious to please, so that^ 

108 



THE BOY WITH THE SMILE 109 

later in our journey, we hired him for several days and let 
him do what he could to help us. 

Much later, when at home planning the details of our 
next extensive journey, the thought struck us that it might 
be well to make the boy with the smile a member of our 
party. It seemed as if, in going into districts rarely visited 
by strangers, it would be well to have the party as largely 
Mexican as possible. If, however, the boy were to accom- 
pany us, it was necessary that he should first learn some- 
thing of our work and needs, and perhaps of English. 
Accordingly, I decided to go to Cholula and bring the boy 
up to the States. 

The resolution was so hastily taken that there was no 
time to send word to the boy himself. Going straight to 
Cholula, I had some difficulty in finding his abode. I 
knew that the boy had no father, that his widowed mother 
had but one other child, a girl younger than the boy him- 
self. I had once seen the mother and the little sister; I 
also knew the street on which they lived. Arriving at the 
street, however, no one apparently had ever heard of the 
boy. One and another through the whole length of the 
street WcLS questioned, but none knew his name or recog- 
nized his description. Excepting that I knew that trait of 
Mexican character which assists acquaintances to seclu- 
sion, when they are sought by strangers, I should have 
despaired. As it was, I kept on asking, and finally, from 
a child who could hardly speak on account of youth, I dis- 
covered the house which I sought. It was a little hut set 
back behind a yard of growing com. I had inquired at the 
houses on either side and at the house across the road, as 
also of a man working in the corn in the yard itself. But 
everyone had been profoundly ignorant of the boy's exis- 
tence. Walking up to the house, I found the door open, 
and the mother and the little girl within. The moment 



no IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the woman saw me, she said, "Que milagro, SenorT^ (What 
a miracle, sir!) and rising, gave me a warm embrace. The 
little girl did the same. "And where is Manuel?" I in- 
quired. "Ah, sir, he has gone to Puebla on an errand for 
a gentleman ; but he will be back on the street-car at half- 
past ten. Pray wait, sir, till he comes." 

The house consisted, like most of its class, of a single 
room. The walls were built of sun-dried bricks of adobe. 
Entrance was by a single door. There were no windows. 
The floor was clay. The flat roof was scarcely six feet 
above the floor. The furniture, though ample, was scanty. 
A little earthen brazier for heating and cooking, a stone 
metate, a rubbing-stone for grinding com-meal, a table 
heaped with bundles and boxes containing the family cloth- 
ing, and a chair were all. There were no beds, not even the 
mats which so frequently, among the poor of Mexico, take 
their place. Several pictures of saints and of the virgin were 
pinned against the wall, and there were signs of tapers 
which had been burned before them. A bird or two in 
wooden cages, a rooster and a little dog lived in the house 
with the family. 

After answering various questions from the good woman 
and the little girl, I finaUy stated that I proposed to take 
Manuel with me to my country. He would stay with me 
there for six months, after which he would come back and 
accompany me for three months longer on a journey into 
southern Mexico. "If I have your consent," I said, "we 
leave to-day." Immediately the woman answered, "Sir, 
it is for you to say." Just then, however, the little girl, 
Dolores, began to cry. "Tut, tut, Dolores," said I, "I am 
sure you want Manuel to go away and visit a strange coun- 
try and have a fine time; and think of the pictures that he 
can bring you to show what he has seen. And more than 
that, it is already half-past ten, and you shall go down to 





• .v!i ^^^ 








THE BOY WITH THE SMILE m 

the street-car to meet him, and tell him that he must come 
straight home, for fear that he will loiter on the way; but 
do not tell him I am here, nor say anything about his going 
away, for we wish to surprise him." Drying her eyes, and 
smiling almost as the boy himself, Dolores started to run 
to the street-car line, and presently fetched Manuel home 
in triumph. As he entered and saw me, he said, ^'Que 
milagrOy Senor" and kissed my hand. Having asked, as 
Mexican politeness requires, a variety of questions about 
his welfare, I finally said, "Well, Manuel, how would you 
like to go to Puebla with me for the day? " "Sir, it is for 
you to say." "Very good," said I. "And if I should con- 
clude that it was best to take you to Mexico for a few days, 
what would you say to that?" "I am entirely in your 
hands, sir," he replied, "to do your orders." "Well," 
said I, "suppose I took you to my own country and kept 
you there for six months? " and the boy replied, "Sir, you 
are my owner; it is for you to command." "Very well," 
said I, "get ready, and we will go on the street-car, at twelve 
o'clock, to Puebla." 

Telling his mother that she should put together the few 
articles of which there might be need, we started for the 
noonday car. As we left, I suggested that she and the little 
girl come to the city, during the afternoon or evening, to bid 
the boy good-bye, as we should leave on an early train the 
following morning. They came at nightfall. She had his 
small possessions tied up in a carrying cloth, and her mind 
was stored with bits of excellent advice and admonition as 
to his conduct and behaviour in his new surroundings. 
After Dolores and her brother had given each other a 
farewell embrace, the mother said a few words to the boy, 
who knelt upon the floor of the room and crossed his hands 
upon his breast. The mother then gave him her parting 
blessing, and sent him forth into the outside world. 



CHAPTER XI 

IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 
(1898) 

/^F all railroad cities in the Republic, Oaxaca is the 
^^ most completely Indian. It is the capital of a state 
the population of which is nine-tenths of native blood. Fif- 
teen native languages are spoken in the state to-day. While 
some of these are related to each other, they are distinct 
languages, not dialects, even those which are related being 
as unlike as the French, Italian, and Spanish. The Indians 
commonly seen on the city streets are Zapotecs or Mixtecs, 
but at times Mixes come from their distant mountain homes 
with burdens on their backs, or parties of Tehuantepecanas 
attract attention, by their fine forms and striking dress, as 
-they walk through the streets. The market is crowded, 
even late in the day; ox-carts from the Indian towns for 
miles around are constantly seen in the streets. Most of 
the sellers in the market are Indians; they bring fruits 
and vegetables, dried fish from the Pacific, jicaras and 
strainers of gourds, beautifully painted and polished gourds 
from Ocotopec, honey, sugar — both the crude brown and 
the refined yellow cakes — and pottery. The indian pot- 
tery here sold is famous. Three kinds of wares are well 
known — a dull plain red, an unglazed but highly polished 
black, and a brilliant glazed green. The black ware is 
made into useful vessels, and also into a variety of toys, 
chiefly whistles and bells. Pottery would seem to be one 
of the least suitable materials for bells. Here, however, 
bells of pottery in many shapes are found — little bells, 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 113 

with handles like the upper part of a human figure; larger 
bells, with curious flat handles set transversely; others, still 
larger, like cow-bells in size and tone, and curious cross- 
shaped bells, really a group of four united. Among the 
whistles some are made into the shape of animals and birds 
and curious human figures; among the latter, some closely 
resemble ancient whistles from the prehistoric graves. 
This black ware is made at Coyotepec, and when the ob- 
jects are first taken from the kiln they are almost white; 
before they are cold, they are exposed to dense smoke, and 
thus assume their black color. The brilliantly glazed 
green ware is the most attractive. Vessels made from it 
are thin, and, in the parts which are unglazed, resemble 
common flower-pot ware. The larger portion of their 
surfaces, however, is covered with a rich, thick, emerald- 
green glaze. Cups, bowls, saucers, plates, sugar-bowls, 
tea-pots, flasks, and censers are among the forms commonly 
made in this ware. The shapes are often graceful and the 
prices low. Most beautiful, however, and relatively ex- 
pensive, are the miniature vessels made in this ware — 
scarcely an inch in height, but formed with the greatest 
care, and in such variety of dainty forms that one may seek 
some time to duplicate a piece which he has found; these 
little pieces are completely covered with the rich green glaze 
both outside and inside. 

Our plan of journey for the year was first to make an 
expedition from Oaxaca to the north-west, into the Mixteca 
Alta; returning to Oaxaca, to strike eastward by way of 
Mitla, and the land of the Mixes, to Tehuantepec, from 
which place we should make a brief trip to the Juaves; 
returning to Tehuantepec, we should take the high road, by 
way of San Carlos, back to Oaxaca. Our first duty in the 
city of Oaxaca was to procure letters and orders from the 
governor. No governor in Mexico more completely real- 



114 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

izes his importance and dignity than Governor Gonzales of 
Oaxaca. It is ever difficult to secure an audience with him; 
appointment after appointment is made, only to be broken 
when the inquiring visitor presents himself, and has been 
kept waiting an undue length of time. We had been 
through the experience before, and therefore were not sur- 
prised that it required four visits, each of them appointed 
by the governor himself, before we really had our inter- 
view. Governor Gonzales, is, however, an excellent officer. 
While we were waiting for our letters, after having explained 
to him our errand and plan of procedure, we had the oppor- 
tunity to see a somewhat unusual and interesting sight. 
Like all public buildings and better-grade houses in Mexican 
cities, the governor's palace is built about patios, or inner 
courts. A wide balcony surrounds the court at the level 
of the second story and upon it the rooms of that story 
open. Having given orders that our letters should be pre- 
pared, the governor excused himself for a few moments, 
as he said that certain of his local authorities were ordered 
to meet him. We were seated where we could watch the 
reception. As we had entered the palace we had been im- 
pressed by the great number of Indians, carrying official 
staves, who were waiting near the door. We now found 
that they were official delegates from the different towns, 
and that they had been sent from their homes to give the 
governor New Year's greetings. Having carefully arrayed 
himself for the meeting, the governor took his position in 
the wide balcony already referred to, with two officials of 
the palace stationed near, one on either side. The indians 
represented perhaps twenty-five different towns, the dele- 
gation from each town varying from three or four to fifteen 
or twenty persons. All were dressed in their cleanest gar- 
ments, and all carried their long staves of office, most of 
which had ribbons of bright colors streaming from them. 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 



'15 



The secretary of the governor arranged these delegations 
in their order, and they were presented one by one to the 
chief executive. As each delegation was presented, its 
members scraped and bowed, and the president e and sec- 
retario kissed the governor's hand. A word or two of 
greeting having been exchanged, the spokesman from the 
village made a speech, sometimes read from a written copy, 
after which he presented a bouquet of flowers, real or arti 
ficial. The governor received the bouquet with a bow, 
placed the flowers on a little table near by, or, if the gift 
were a large bouquet of real flowers, handed it to one of the 
attendants standing near, and then made a polite speech of 
response, emphasizing it with vigorous gestures and plainly 
expressive of much interest and earnestness. The dele- 
gation then took its leave, always bowing reverently, and 
each man kissing the governor's hand as he passed out. 
As he received this mark of respect, the governor would 
make a playful remark, or pat the persons on the head, or 
otherwise treat them as a father might his little children. 
Instantly the flowers were cleared away, the next delega 
tion ushered in, and the same ceremony gone through with. 
Finally, all was ready for our leaving. The party con- 
sisted of five persons — myself, as leader, Mr. Lang, my 
American photographer, Don Anselmo, my Mexican plaster- 
worker, Manuel, and the mozo. All but the mozo were 
mounted on horses, more or less good or bad. The mozo, 
Mariano, a Mixtec Indian, went on foot, carrying the 
photographic outfit on his back, and our measuring-rod in 
his hand. It was well on in the afternoon before we started, 
and hardly were we outside the town, before Mr. Lang's 
horse showed signs of sickness. His suffering was plain, 
and every person we met volunteered the information that 
unless something was done promptly, we should have a dead 
horse on our hands. Going to a little shop on the roadside. 



ii6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

where strong drinks were sold, we stopped, and after prepar- 
ing a remedy with the help of a passing Indian, threw the 
horse down, wedged his mouth open, and gave him what 
seemed to be an unsavory draught. More than an hour was 
lost out of our already short afternoon by this veterinary 
practice, and long before we reached Etla, where we were 
compelled to pass the night, it was dark. 

Leaving Etla in the morning, looking down as we passed 
out from the city upon a wonderful group of mounds, we 
passed rather slowly through the town of Huitzo. Don 
Anselmo and I loitered, as we found the whole country to 
be rich in ancient relics, examples of which were to be found 
in almost every house. As the afternoon passed, we found 
that we were likely to be completely left by our compan- 
ions, and were forced to hasten on. The latter part of the 
daylight ride was up a continuous, and at times steep, 
ascent. As the sun neared setting, we reached the summit 
and found ourselves close by the station of Las Sedas, the 
highest point upon the Mexican Southern Railway. We 
had there expected to overtake the others of our party, but 
found that they had hurried on. It was a serious question 
whether we should try to overtake them. It had been 
wisdom to have stayed the night where we were. In this 
uncertainty, we met an Indian boy driving mules toward 
Oaxaca, who volunteered the information that he had met 
our companions, who were just ahead, and that we would 
soon overtake them. This decided us, and we started down 
the trail. A heavy wind was blowing, and the night air was 
cold and penetrating. In a few minutes we met a half- 
breed Mexican, who, accosting us at once, urged us to go 
no further. His manner was somewhat sinister and dis- 
agreeable. He warned us that, if we attempted to make 
the descent in the darkness, we would at least lame our ani- 
mals. He asserted that our comrades were fully three 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 117 

leagues ahead when he had met them, and that we would 
never overtake them. He also hinted darkly as to other 
dangers of the road, if we should succeed in making the 
descent without breaking the legs of our horses. Refusing 
his invitation to stop with him for the night, we pressed on- 
ward, and as we did so, he called out derisively after us. 

The descent would not have been an easy one, even in 
the daytime, and in the gathering darkness there was really 
an element of danger in the journey. We left the following 
of the trail almost entirely to our animals. We were finally 
down the worst of the descent before night had actually 
set in. From here on, although the road varied but little 
from a level trail, we were obliged to go slowly, and it was 
with a feeling of true relief that, after floundering for a 
while in a brook in which our road seemed to lose itself, we 
heard ourselves called by name, from an Indian hut situated 
a little way up the bank. As usual, the house consisted 
of a single room, of no great size, and was lightly built of 
cane. Two men, three women, a boy, and three little girls 
were the occupants. Our companions were already rest- 
ing; their horses were unsaddled and were eating content- 
edly, and we were told that supper was being prepared for 
us. Entering the house, we found the women busy making 
tortillas, and fresh goat's meat, hanging from the rafters, 
gave promise of a substantial meal. When all was ready, 
we sat down to the finest of corncakes, beans, eggs, and 
tender kidmeat. We spread our blankets under a little 
shelter which stood in front of one side of the house. 
None of us slept well. It was very cold; dogs barked all 
night long; now and then a sudden outbreak of their bark- 
ing, and curious signals and whistles, which were repeated 
in various parts of the mountain, gave us some uneasiness. 
At three o'clock in the morning, just as we were napping, 
Don Anselmo startled us by the statement that our mule 



ii8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 



was dead. In a moment, all was excitement. Mariano 
examined the animal and reiterated the statement. As 
for us, we were in the mood to care but little whether the 
mule was living or dead. HaK frozen and very weary, our 
frame of mind was not a cheerful one. Just before day- 
break we could stand the cold no longer, and gathering 
some dry wood, we started a fire and crowded around it. 
The report about the mule proved to be false, and when 
morning came, there was no sign that anything was the 
matter with him. 

It was nine o'clock before we started on our journey 
in the morning. We had three long hours of clambering up 
and dovra heavy slopes, and, much of the way, through a 
stream the bed of which was filled with slippery boulders 
and pebbles, over which the horses slipped and stumbled 
frightfully. Our horses slid down small cascades, but, 
when we came to larger ones, we had to mount the banks 
by ugly bits of road, descending below the falls. After 
much labor and weariness, we reached El Parian at noon. 
Having rested through the hotter portion of the day, we took 
the road again at two. We followed up the brook-bed to 
the point where another stream entered it, at an acute angle. 
Up this stream we turned, and after following it a little, 
struck suddenly up a steep hill, and then climbed on and on 
over a good road, cut in the limestone rock, up and up, 
until we reached the very summit. The vegetation here 
was a curious assemblage, — palms, cedars, oaks, and a 
mimosa-like tree, formed the chief types. The limestone 
rock upon the summit was curiously eroded, as if by rain 
rills. The masses presented all the appearance and de- 
tail of erosion shown by the great mountain mass of the 
coimtry itself; looking at one of these little models, only a 
few feet across, and then gazing out upon the great tangle 
of mountain peaks around us, one could almost imagine 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 119 

that the one was the intentional reproduction of the other, 
in miniature. For a long time we followed the almost level 
summit; then a little climb and a slight descent brought 
us to Huaclilla. At the meson we found real rooms and 
true beds, and decided to stay for the night. The supper 
was less attractive. A brief walk about the village brought to 
light two cases of small-pox, and, on returning to the meson^ 
we were charmed to find a third one in the building itself. 
Still, we slept well, and were up betimes next m.oming. 
The country through which we were passing was Mariano's 
pais (native land). Assuming that his knowledge was 
adequate, we left our meson early, with the intention of 
breakfasting at San Pedrito, where we were assured that 
everything was lovely; we were also told that it was but a 
short distance. The road thither was through a high open 
country, planted to wheat and oats and with some maguey. 
The road was discouragingly long, but after at least three 
hours of constant riding, we reached precious San Pedrito, 
chiefly notable for the amount of pulque drunk there. It 
was with the greatest difficulty that we succeeded in getting 
anything to eat; the breakfast was certainly worse than the 
supper of the preceding night. With the prevalence of 
maguey as a cultivated plant, the appearance of the houses 
and other buildings changed, as all of them were thatched 
with the broad, long, sharp-pointed leaves of the famous plant. 
Everyone in the district carries tinajas, or little sacks woven 
from splints of palm. Here, for the first time, we noticed 
that many of these had decorated patterns worked in black 
splints on the lighter ground. The blackness of these 
splints is given by exposure to the smoke of burning pine. 
Carrying-straps, also made of palm, are used for adjusting 
these Una j as to the back. 

From San Pedrito the road is over a soft rock, which 
produces, when worn, a white glaring trail. The country 



I20 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

through which we passed was fertile. Everywhere were 
fields of grain, wheat, oats, and, as we were descending 
into the lower land, corn. The little watch-houses for 
guarding the newly-sown fields are a striking feature of the 
landscape. In the higher districts they were small, conical 
or dome-shaped structures, made of the leaves of the ma- 
guey, and hardly large enough for a man to lie down in. 
Lower down, these were replaced by little rectangular huts, 
only a few feet across, with thatched roofs, the whole con- 
struction being raised on poles ten or twelve feet above 
the ground. It was scarcely more than noonday when we 
reached Nochixtlan, where the jeje of the district lives. 
Telling him that we desired to visit Yodocono and Tilan- 
tongo, he wrote orders for us, and charged some indians of 
Tidaa to show us the road, so far as they were going. The 
country . through which we passed was a continuation of 
that preceding Nochixtlan. The road was nearly level, with 
but slight ups and downs, until a little before we reached 
our destination, when we had an abrupt up-turn to Yodo- 
cono, a pretty town on the border of a little lake, which has 
but recently appeared, and which covers an area which a 
few years ago was occupied by cultivated fields. Our 
letter from the jefe introduced us to Don Macario Espinola, 
a mestizo, owner of the chief store in the village, who showed 
us gracious hospitality. We were guests of honor. The 
parlor was surrendered to our use ; the chairs were placed 
in such a way that, when supplied with mattress, sheets, 
and blankets, they made capital beds. Our meals were 
good. Don Macario, on hearing the purpose of our visit, 
placed himself entirely at our disposition. Unfortunately, he 
gained the idea that the people whom we wanted for meas- 
urement and photography were old folk, and the most 
astonishing collection of aged men and women was sum- 
moned from every part of the village and surrounding 



^ « 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 121 

neighborhood, and all had to be measured, although the 
measurements were afterwards discarded. 

Leaving Yodocono at ten the following morning, we 
rode to Tilantongo. Though assured that the road was 
over a district as level as a floor, we found a good deal of 
up-hill riding. Tilantongo itself, with 2,266 inhabitants, 
is located upon the further slope of a hill, and but few 
houses were in sight until we were actually in the town. 
The public buildings surrounded a small open space, in the 
centre of which is a stone sun-dial. One side of this little 
plaza is occupied by the schoolhouse; the town-house and 
jail occupy the rear. The town is built upon a horse- 
shoe-shaped, sloping ridge, and the church is at the edge of 
the town, at one of the very ends of the horseshoe. Riding 
to the town-house, we presented our documents to the presi- 
dente, and ordered dinner for ourselves and food for the 
horses. We had letters to the priest, but he was not in 
town. The schoolhouse was placed at our disposal, and we 
moved two long benches close to each other, side by side; 
rush mats were brought, and these we laid upon the benches, 
and upon the teacher's table, for beds. Mr. Lang and 
Don Anselmo took the table, Manuel and I the benches, 
and Mariano had the floor. The cold was so intense that 
none of us slept much. We were astonished, in the middle 
of the night, and at intervals in the early morning, say at 
two or four o'clock, to hear snatches of songs. At first, we 
imagined it might be some religious festival, but on inquir- 
ing, we found that it was nothing but bands of drunken 
Indians making night hideous. 

We waited some time in the morning before beginning 
work, hoping that the cura might come and assist us with 
his influence. Finally, wearying of delay, we explained 
to the presidente the work we planned to do. We told him 
we must have subjects for measurement, photographing 



122 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

and modeling. He showed no great enthusiasm in the 
matter. One and another came to be measured, if they 
chose, but a number entirely refused. It was plain that 
something must be done. Quitting my work, I sent orders 
for the presidente to appear, and, after an intolerable delay, 
he presented himself. I told him that we were losing time; 
that subjects were not presenting themselves; that some 
of those who did present themselves refused to be meas- 
ured; that I wished a mozo at once to carry a report from 
me to the jeje that my wishes were not regarded by the 
authorities, and that his orders had no influence; that the 
mozo must be ready at once, as there was no time to lose, 
and we should shortly leave his town without accomplish- 
ing our work. The effect was instantaneous. The official 
air of arrogance disappeared ; he replied quiet humbly that 
subjects should be at once supplied, as rapidly as they 
could be brought in. I replied, "Here are two persons 
now who have refused; why wait while others shall be 
brought ? " The fiat went forth, the two obdurate and 
not good-humored victims were marched up. As I meas- 
ured them, they whispered to me that the presidente him- 
self had not been measured, and begged that he be ordered 
to undergo the operation. The request was reasonable, 
and when they were through, they waited to see what would 
happen. Great was their delight when, turning to the 
chief man of the town, I said, " It is best for you to be meas- 
ured next. It will set a good example to the rest," and 
without a word, although I knew that he had stated that he 
would not be measured, he stepped under the rod. From 
then on there was no lack of material. Our subjects were 
measured, photographed and modeled as rapidly as we 
could do the work. At noon the priest had come. As he 
passed where we were working, he gave us an extremely 
distant greeting and rode on up to the curato. From his 



«• sssf^^" I :■■■', !«■■ '•*;-■ 




IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 1^23 

castle he sent immediate complaint because our horses had 
been put into his stable without his permission. I went 
to the good man's house and found him hearing confessions. 
Leaving with him the letters from the archbishop and the 
jeje, I returned to my work, leaving word that the horses 
would have to stay where they were, as there was no other 
suitable place for their keeping. After a hard day's work, 
the night started very cold, and we hurried to bed early. 
All were sleeping, but myself, when a rap came at the door. 
It was a message from the cura, begging us to come to the 
curatOy where we would be more comfortable. Sending 
back a word of thanks, I stated that we would be there for 
the following night. 

The cura had been away from home for several days. 
The result was that, on his return, his parishioners turned 
out in force to greet him, and hardly was he housed, when 
a procession bearing gifts marched to the curato. In front 
went one bearing flowers. Those who followed carried 
some kind of food, — great pieces of meat, fowls, eggs, com, 
chilis, and other supplies. The following morning we were 
awakened by a great explosion of fire-crackers and rockets, 
and by pealing bells, announcing the early mass. After his 
religious duties were performed, the padre came down to 
the plaza to watch our work and use his influence in our 
behalf. When it was dinner-time, he invited us to go with 
him to that meal. We had thought that the donation party 
we had witnessed was a generous one; after that dinner, 
we had no doubt of the matter. Hardly had we disposed of 
the many good things on the table when the padre took us 
to a large room, the parish schoolhouse, and showed us the 
arrangements he had made for our comfort. Four beds, 
descending in grade of comfort from the one for myself to 
the one for Manuel, were shown us. Never was a party 
happier to move from one set of quarters to another. 



124 AN INDIAN MEXICO 

Called . away the next morning by his religious duties^ 
the priest left us in charge of house and household. The 
work went merrily on in the plaza. We quickly found, 
however, that the town was getting into a condition of in- 
toxication, and long before noon every person in the place 
was drunk. At noon we were waited upon by a committee, 
representing the town, who informed us that they appre- 
ciated the lofty honor which was conferred on the place by 
our presence, and stated that, realizing that we had brought 
with us letters from the President of the Republic and from 
the Archbishop of the diocese, they desired not to be lacking 
in the respect due to such distinguished visitors. Accord- 
ingly, they said, they had arranged for the brass band to 
discourse sweet music for us, while we ate our dinner. No 
sooner was the statement made, than preparations were 
begun. The band stood around us in a semicircle, chiefly 
notable for its unsteadiness on its legs, and regaled us with 
a series of most doleful pieces. When word came that 
dinner was ready at the curato, the band accompanied us 
to our stopping-place. The bandmaster announced his 
intention of personally serving us at the table. At the same 
time orders were given that the musicians, standing without, 
should continue to play pieces throughout the repast. 

The last day of our stay at Tilantongo, the padre stated 
that it must be interesting to see the way in which a parish 
priest, returning from a visit to a neighboring town, is 
received by his parish. Accordingly, he planned that a 
picture should be taken of himself on horseback, with all 
the people gathered around welcoming him. Telling us 
that he would be ready when we should have made our 
own preparations for this photographic effort, he waited 
for our summons. We quickly found, however, that the 
proposition, although hailed at first with joy, did not create 
great enthusiasm. We recommended to the people that they 




•.^^^msa^.nM 




IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 125 

should get ready; told the musicians that the band should 
be prepared, and that soon we should send for the padre to be 
welcomed. When we finally succeeded in getting the matter 
under way, and were seriously thinking of summoning the 
reverend gentleman, it was reported that an old woman 
had been found dead in her lonely hut that morning, and 
arrangements were at once started for her funeral. In 
vain we suggested that they should wait until the picture 
had been made. Musicians and parishioners alike dis- 
appeared, going down to the house where the dead body 
lay. The afternoon was passing. It would soon be quite 
too dark for a picture. Meantime, the cura, having be- 
come anxious in the matter, hastened from his house on 
foot, to ask why he had not been sent for. On our ex- 
plaining that a funeral was in progress, he was greatly out- 
raged. We pointed out the house in front of which the 
funeral procession was now forming. He stood watching, 
as the line of mourners approached. The person who 
had died was an aged woman named Hilaria. The body 
was borne upon a stretcher, as coffins are not much used 
among these people. The procession came winding up 
the high-road, where we stood. The band in front 
was playing mournfully; next came the bearers, two of 
whom, at least, were sadly drunk. The corpse was clad 
in the daily garments of the woman, and the body sagged 
down through gaps in the stretcher; a motley crowd of 
mourners, chiefly women, some with babies in their arms, 
followed. One man, walking with the band in front, car- 
ried a book in his hand and seemed to read the service, as 
they slowly passed along. When the procession had come 
near us and was about to pass, the padre stopped it; ex- 
pressing his dissatisfaction at the failure to arrange for the 
photograph which he had ordered, he told the bearers to 
take the corpse out behind the house and leave it there. 



126 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

They did so, returned, and were arranged in a group with 
the padre in their midst, and photographed, after which the 
body was picked up again, the procession was reformed, 
and proceeded as if nothing had happened. 

The following morning at six o'clock we were again 
upon the road. We first descended into the valley, passing 
the miserable hut from whence the dead woman had been 
borne. In all the yards we noticed peach-trees loaded with 
their pink blossoms. From the deep and narrow valley, 
we began to climb steadily upward. We passed along the 
side of a gorge, the bed of which had all the appearance of 
a giant stairway. Higher and higher we mounted, leaving 
San Juan Diusi on our right. Great masses of gray clouds 
hung upon the summits of the highest mountain, their 
lower line coming very nearly to our level. The wind be- 
ginning to blow, the gray mass soon was whirled and spread 
down like a great veil around us. We were indeed glad 
when we began to descend and have a little shelter behind 
us, against the wind, and dry skies instead of damp clouds 
above us. Making a sudden descent, we found ourselves 
in a cleared district, where the only trees left on the high 
summits were palms, which bore little round dates with 
round seeds; these were quite sweet and good. Small 
ranches were scattered, here and there, along the road. 
After another descent and ascent, we found ourselves in an 
extensive forest of great gnarled oaks, thickly covered with 
tufts of air-plants and with orchids. Many of the latter 
were in full bloom, forming masses of brilliant color. In 
making the descent from here, we found the slope com- 
posed of slippery limestone, with sharp, rain-channeled 
surfaces, where our horses with great difificulty kept their 
footing. Soon after we were down, we reached San Bartolo. 

This purely Mixtec town was a delightful spot. It is 
large, and strung along two or three long straight streets. 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 127 

The houses were in yards completely filled with fruit trees 
— chirimoyas, limas, granadas de China, ahuacates and 
oranges. Garden-beds of spinach, lettuce, and onions 
were frequent. The houses were of poles set upright, with 
thick thatchings of palms. Bee-hives in quantity were 
seen at almost every house. At Tilantongo we had seen 
but few women in native dress. Here almost every woman 
was clad in native garments, many of which were beau- 
tifully decorated. The men wore brilliant sashes, woven 
in the town. When we reached the town-house we found 
the doorway decorated with flowers, — stars and rosettes 
made of palm. We were well received, and a capital dinner 
was soon served, after which we were escorted around 
the town by the authorities, who arranged for photographing 
everything that seemed to us of interest. But, at three 
o'clock, we left this pretty spot. Again, we climbed much 
of the way over limestone roads. Santo Domingo, past 
which we journeyed, is a mean little town, with houses 
much like those of Tilantongo, but of a gray color instead 
of reddish- brown. From here we plunged downward, 
and when we ascended again, followed along the side 
of a rock-walled cafion with pretty cascades and magnifi- 
cent masses of fallen rock. The last part of our journey 
was made by moonlight, along a brook-side over a road 
which seemed quite endless. With some trouble, we 
found the dilapidated old church and the municipal house; 
we took possession of the school, and after a miserable 
supper, thoroughly tired, lay down to rest upon the benches. 
The town — Magdalena de los Comales — is so named 
from the comales, or earthenware griddles, made there. 
Besides this characteristic product, the town makes a good 
deal of unglazed but polished red pottery. The forms are 
chiefly candlesticks, censers and toys. Much weaving of 
palm is here done, and the hats of the place are rather 



128 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

famous. Famous, too, are the manias, or women's dresses, 
of black wool, made in long rectangular pieces. The 
common grade sells for $6.00, and in using it, it is, like 
indian dresses generally, simply wrapped about the figure 
and held in place by a sash or belt. 

Nowhere in our journey in southern Mexico had we met 
with the kind of scenery which we encountered between 
Magdalena and Tlaxiaco ; its whole character was like that 
of New Mexico. Directly behind the town was a fine cart- 
road, worn in red sand pumice ; before the town rose a mag- 
nificent cliff, which had been a landmark in our journey 
of the day before. The road running up the mountain, over 
gray and red pumice strata, was deeply worn, just like 
the road back of Cochiti, New Mexico. Here, too, were 
the same noble pines for forest. It was a full hour's 
climb to the summit, where we found a pretty brook tum- 
bling over ledge after ledge into deep round basins of purest 
water. A long and rather gentle slope downward led to a 
valley filled with neat farm-houses and cleared patches. 
Our last ascent brought us to a mass of rounded hills, com- 
posed of brilliant clays — yellow, browm, pink, red and 
white. From among these hillocks Tlaxiaco, a magnificent 
picture, burst into view. It is compactly built; the flat- 
topped houses are white or blue-tinted; trees are sprinkled 
through the town; the old convent, with the two towers 
of its church, dominates the whole place; a pretty stream 
flows along its border; and a magnificent range of encir- 
clins: mountains hems it in on all sides. The descent was 
rapid, and we reached Tlaxiaco with the morning but half 
gone. 

The jejes of the districts of Mexico are frequently men 
of ability and force. Rarely, however, have we encountered 
one so prompt and energetic as Javier Cordova, then jeje 
of the district of Tlaxiaco. When he took possession of 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 129 

this district, not long before, deeds of robbery along the 
high-road were common. In many portions of the district, 
acts of violence were quite the rule. Perhaps the largest 
agricultural district in the Republic, it possessed few of the 
conveniences of modern life. Under Cordova's admin- 
istration, vast improvements have been made. The roads 
are secure, deeds of violence are rare, the advantages of the 
district are being rapidly developed, telephone and tele- 
graph have been introduced, and a railroad is talked of. 
Although we had no letter from the governor addressed to 
Sefior Cordova, when we showed him the communications 
for other jejes, we were received with the greatest courtesy 
and everything was done to facilitate our work. We told 
him that we planned to visit the Triquis at Chicahuastla. 
He at once wrote letters to the town authorities and to Don 
Guillermo Murcio, living at that village. The plaster for 
our bust-making had not yet been received, but Senor Cor- 
dova promised, in case it came, to forward it after us prompt 
ly, and, in case it did not come, to send twenty miles into the 
mountains for the raw plaster, which he would have pre- 
pared and sent on to Chicahuastla. It was late in the after 
noon, before we started for Cuquila, where we planned to 
pass the night. It was a mistake to make so late a start. 
For a time, the road was fairly level, but at last we went up 
a brisk ascent, reaching the summit near sunset. The 
road down would have been a bad one, even in the day- 
time. As it was, if we had not had a good moon, we could 
hardly have made the descent. From the depth of the 
caiion we ascended to Cuquila, thoroughly tired, some- 
what before seven. It was with the greatest difficulty that 
we could find anyone of whom to ask our way to the town- 
house. Our voices were sufficient to plunge any house 
into instant darkness and silence. After a long search, we 
found a man who agreed to seek the presidente. He and 



I30 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the rest of the town officials finally met us on the road, and, 
after reading our order, took us to the town-house. It was 
with difficulty that we got fodder for our horses. It was 
only after persistent and dire threats, that we secured food 
for ourselves, and firewood to make the room, in which we 
were to sleep, endurable. It was long past eleven before 
we were through our troubles and lay down on mats to 
sleep. 

Though we had warned the town officials that we should 
leave at seven, and must have breakfast before we left, when 
we arose, we found no steps whatever taken for our accom- 
modation. Yet the town officials had been up long enough 
to be thoroughly affected by their early m.orning drinks. 
Feeling that patience had ceased to be a virtue, we sum- 
moned the authorities, and told the presidente that he had 
paid no attention whatever to his jeje's order; that we had 
had far too much difficulty in securing the bad accommo- 
dations we had been furnished; that their promise to pre- 
pare a suitable breakfast had been completely disregarded. 
We told them that our duty was to send immediate com- 
plaint to Tlaxiaco; that we would, however, give them one 
more chance. We should not stop for breakfast, but would 
proceed upon our journey hungry ; if, however, we sent him 
further orders regarding our return journey, we should 
expect them obeyed to the very letter. With this we mounted. 

In vain the presidente and officials begged us to wait, 
promising that everything should be prepared. Time was 
too precious, and away we rode. 

Soon after leaving Cuquila we struck a fifty-minute 
mountain, the summit of which we made at nine o'clock 
exactly. Here we sat in the shade and lunched on bread 
and pineapples, bought the day before in Tlaxiaco. From 
the summit, there was a slow and gentle descent around that 
ridge, and then a slow incline along an endless ravine, until 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 131 

at last we came out upon a crest, from which we looked 
down upon one of the grandest mountain scenes of the 
world. A valley of impressive size, surrounded by mag- 
nificent mountain masses, lay below us, and just to the 
right, at our feet, was Chicahuastla. Few people in Mexico 
are so little known as the Triquis. Orozco y Berra, usually 
a good authority, locates them near Tehuantepec, in 
the low country. The towns which he calls Triqui are 
Chontal; the five true Triqui towns are in the high Mix- 
teca. The largest is the town which we were now ap- 
proaching. The Triquis are people of small stature, dark- 
brown color, black eyes, aquiline, but low and rather broad 
nose; they are among the most conservative, suspicious 
and superstitious of Mexican Indians. Most of them dress 
in native clothing, and all speak the Triqui and not the 
Spanish language. As a people they are sadly degraded, 
through being exceptionally addicted to drink. 

Don Guillermo Murcio is a character. He and his 
family are almost the only mestizos in the place. He is a 
hale and hearty blacksmith, and has lived for fifteen years 
in this purely Indian town, where he has gained almost 
unbounded influence among the simple natives. His word 
is law, and the town-government trembles before his gaze. 
He is impetuous in manner, quick-tempered, and on the 
slightest suggestion of disregard of his commands, freely 
threatens jail or other punishment. He received us cor- 
dially, and we lived at his house, where we were treated to 
the best that was available. 

We have already referred to the beautiful location of 
Chicahuastla. Its appearance is most picturesque. Un- 
like the indian towns in the Mixteca which we had so far 
visited, it has many houses of circular form with conical 
roof. It is possible that this style of construction is the 
result of African influence. At Chicahuastla we were on 



132 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the very summit of the great water-shed, and from it, when 
the air is clear, one may look down, over a sea of lesser sum- 
mits and mountain ranges, to the waters of the Pacific. 
Along the Pacific coast, in the state of Guerrero, are whole 
towns of Africans, descendants of slaves, who build their 
houses after the circular pattern, so common throughout 
the dark continent. We did not find in the Triquis any 
admixture of African blood, but it is possible the mode of 
house-building may have been influenced by negro example. 

Our first glimpse of the town suggested a veritable para- 
dise. At eleven the sky was clear, the sun almost tropical, 
the whole country smiled under its warm beams; but at 
two there came a change. Fogs, so dense as to shut out 
the view of what was across the road, drifted down from the 
summit on which we had seen cloud masses forming. 
Deeper and deeper, wetter and wetter, colder and colder 
grew the mist. All, wrapped in their thickest blankets, 
were shivering, crouched upon the ground, trying in vain 
to keep themselves warm. At first we thought this might 
be a rare occasion, but were assured that it is an every-day 
occurrence, and from our own experience of four or five days, 
we can easily believe the statement to be true. How any 
people can live in such a spot, suffering keenly twenty hours 
in the day, simply for the four hours of clear sunshine and 
warmth is inexplicable; and the nights were torments! 
Don Guillermo's house is well built of logs and plaster, but 
no house could keep out that bitter cold night air which 
chilled us, as we lay in bed, until we could hardly move. 

We have already stated that the people of Chicahuastla 
are conservative and superstitious. Our operations of 
measuring, photographing and bust-making filled the 
town with alarm and concern. It was hard enough to get 
our male subjects; the women were yet more difficult. At 
first we failed to secure any, but after we had several times 




Don Guillermo and his Family; Chicahuastla 




Group of Triquis; Chicahuastla 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 133 

told the town officials that twenty-five women must be 
forthcoming for measurement, and Don Guillermo had 
stormed and threatened, the town-government began to 
plan a mode of carrying out our wishes. Close by Don 
Guillermo's house was the miserable little village plaza, 
where the women of the town assembled with corn-cakes 
and other articles for trade. There, they met the travelling 
peddlers coming from Tlaxiaco, from Cuquila and the 
coast, and drove their bargains, mostly a matter of trade, 
not purchase, with them. Waiting at the place where we 
were working, until one or two women were to be seen in 
the plaza, the town officials separated, going in two direc- 
tions. In a few minutes an anxious watcher, from our 
point of view, might have seen a gradually contracting 
circle of men surrounding the plaza. Usually at the same 
time that this circle was evident to the watcher, it became 
also evident to the women. With cries of terror, the poor 
creatures would start off as fast as their legs would carry 
them, over the mountain trails, with the whole town 
government, sixteen strong, in pursuit, with yells and 
screams. It was like nothing but the chase of deer by 
hounds. Usually, the women, given strength by terror, 
escaped; but once out of three times, perhaps, the officials 
returned in triumph with their prisoner in their midst, who 
was at once measured and then, if need be, photographed. 
In course of time these hunts supplied the twenty-five victims 
desired. 

It might not be uninteresting to describe the events of 
a single afternoon in a Triqui town. On one occasion, 
having eaten dinner, we had scarcely begun our work when 
we heard a great uproar and din upon the road toward 
Santo Domingo. Looking in that direction, we saw a 
crowd of men and boys struggling toward us. As they 
came nearer, we saw that six or eight of the party were 



134 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

carrying some awkward and inconvenient burden. It was 
a man, sprawling face downward; two or more held his 
arms, an equal number his legs; about his waist a belt, 
knotted behind, was tied, and then through the knot was 
thrust a strong pole, which was being carried by two men, 
one on either side. Struggling against those who carried 
him, raising his face and snarling and gnashing at the crowd, 
the prisoner presented a fearful spectacle. It seemed that, 
being drunk, he had quarreled with his friend, whom he 
had nearly murdered with his machete. About the middle 
of the afternoon we heard a loud crying in the other direc- 
tion, toward the church and jail, and, on looking, saw com- 
ing toward us a man, whose head was broken open and 
from it was streaming blood , his head and face were covered, 
and his white shirt, to the waist and even below, was soaked 
with the red fluid. He was wTinging his hands and crying 
in a piteous manner. When he came to where we stood, 
he told his tale of woe. He was the majordomo in charge 
of the church property. He had expected that the priest 
would make his visit to the pueblo on that day, and had so 
announced it to the people; the pious parishioners looked 
forward, with interest, to the coming of the padre. When 
the day passed, however, and the priest failed to appear, 
one of the more religious felt so outraged that he had 
broken open the head of the majordomo with a club, on 
account of his disappointment. We told the poor fellow 
to go home and let his wife clean him up and change his 
clothing, promising that, if he died, his assailant should be 
punished. That evening there was a little moonlight at 
Chicuhuastla, the only time during our stay. As we sat 
eating supper, we heard an outcry in the direction of the 
church and jail. Asking Don Guillermo what might be 
the cause, he replied that there was probably some trouble 
at the jail. We insisted on going to see what might be 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 135 

happening. Don Guillermo, the plaster-worker, Mariano, 
Manuel and I, seizing whatever weapons were convenient 
at hand, started for the jail. We found an excited crowd 
gathered around the doorway. On a log before the door 
there sat a creature crazy-drunk. I have never seen a case 
more horrible. He screamed, yelled, gnashed his teeth, 
struck and snapped at everyone around. The whole vil- 
lage stood in terror. I addressed the policemen, who 
seemed quite helpless. "Why not thrust him into the 
jail? Quick! Seize him! In with him!" Encouraged 
by our words, they seized him, the door was quickly opened, 
and he was cast into the little room, which already con- 
tained more than thirty persons, the harvest of a single 
afternoon. When the door was locked, we saw for the first 
time why the policemen had been so timid. One of them 
came limping up to us, crying, and showed his leg. From 
its fleshy part a good mouthful of flesh had been cleanly 
bitten by the madman. The wound was bleeding pro- 
fusely, and the poor fellow wrung his hands and cried with 
pain. 

We had finished our measurements and photographs, 
but there had been no sign as yet of the plaster; concluding 
that Seiior Cordova had forgotten his promise, we were 
prepared to leave town early the next morning. After dark 
two men came from Tlaxiaco, one of whom brought suffi- 
cient plaster for making two good busts. This plaster had 
been brought, in a crude state, twenty miles from the moun- 
tains to Tlaxiaco; had been calcined and ground there, 
by prisoners in the jail, and then sent fifteen miles to us over 
the mountains. We were interested in the men who brought 
it. One of them was a prisoner from the Tlaxiaco jail. 
He had been sentenced to ten days for drinking, and it was 
he who carried the plaster. The other proudly informed 
us that he was a policeman, and had come to make sure that 



136 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the prisoner returned. Thoroughly dehghted at their com- 
ing, we broke our custom and gave the men a trifle. Alas, 
the day! That very night both men, policeman and 
prisoner, were thrust into the local jail, helplessly drunk. 

One evening, during our stay at Chicahuastla, Don 
Guillermo begged me to go into the kitchen to examine a 
baby, upon whom he was thinking of performing a surgical 
operation. The creature was a boy some three montlis 
old, pure indian. We had heard him crying at night ever 
since we had come, but had not seen him. A tumor, or 
some growth, was on his neck, below the chin. Don Guil- 
lermo handed me the razor, in order that I might remove 
the swelling, but I refused the task. The story of the child 
is sad. It is the son of a young indian boy and girl, not 
married. That would not be a serious matter among the 
Triquis. For some reason, however, the mother did not 
like the child, and scarcely was it born, when she went with 
it into the forest; there in a lonely place she choked it, as 
she thought, to death, and buried it in the ground. The 
town authorities, suspecting something of her purpose, had 
followed her and were watching at tiie moment. No sooner 
had she left the spot than they dug up the child, found it 
still alive, and brought it to Don Guillermo, who had kept 
it at the town's charge. 

The last night of our stay at Chicahuastla, just after 
supper, a cavalcade came to the door. It was the jeje of 
the next district — Juxtlahuaca — with a guard of six 
mounted men. Apparently a pleasant fellow, he was at 
the moment excited over a recent disturbance in his district. 
In an attempt which he had made to adjust a certain diffi- 
culty, he and his guard had been fired on and stones 
thrown from the height above them, by the people of the 
pueblo. One of his companions died from the effect of 
the attack. The officer plainly feared an outbreak or up- 




At Work; Measuring 




At Work; Bust Making 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 137 

rising, and was nervous and uneasy, though Don Guil- 
lermo assured him that in his house there was absolutely 
no danger. Finally, we quieted down and all went to bed, 
we with the intention of an early start the next morning. 

After an uneasy night, I awoke about five o'clock. Just 
as I was thinking of calling my companions, I felt a faint 
trembling, which rapidly increased to a heavy shaking, of 
the house in which we slept. There was a moment's 
pause, and then a second shaking, which began stronger 
than the other, but which lasted about the same time. It 
was the most serious earthquake shock we ever experienced 
in Mexico. Had the house been made of brick and plas- 
ter, considerable damage might have been done. Every- 
one was wide awake in an instant. The whole town was 
in excitement. The church-bell was rung and the people 
flocked out into the street. The shock passed at exactly 
5:20, and, in other towns, notably in Oaxaca, it did consider- 
able damage. 

Two days before, we had sent word to the authorities 
at Cuquila, that we should breakfast with them on our way 
back to Tlaxiaco, and ordered them to be ready for our 
coming. This was the opportunity which had been prom- 
ised them for redeeming themselves and avoiding complaint 
to their jefe. Arriving at the town at 9:40, we were met 
at the roadside by some of the officials, who led us at once 
to the town-house. Here the whole town government was 
gathered to greet us; politely each one, stepping forward, 
removed his hat and kissed my hand; they then invited 
us to sit down at the table and breakfast, — whereupon 
eggs, chicken, tortillas and jrijoles — the best the town could 
supply — were set before us. The whole government sat 
by, looking on as we ate. 

Immediately after breakfast, in accordance with our 
order previously sent, we were taken to see a potter at work. 



138 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Cuquila is famous for two lines of manufacture, pottery 
and woolen garments. The pottery here made is skill- 
fully shaped into wonderfully large vessels of different forms. 
The product goes throughout this whole district, and even 
down to the Pacific coast, a hundred miles distant. Along 
the roads it is a common thing to meet parties of three or 
four men carrying great loads of water-jars, large bowls, 
etc., for sale or trade. While we were inspecting the pot- 
ter's work, a slight shock of earthquake, almost too gentle 
to be noticed, passed through the place. 

At Cuquila, we found that we should not meet Senor 
Cordova at Tlaxiaco. He had passed through the town the 
night before, on his way to Juxtlahuaca, with a band of 
soldiers to assist his neighboring jeje in maintaining order. 

Leaving our Cuquila reprobates in friendly and gentle 
mood, we started for Tlaxiaco, where we arrived at half- 
past two. Something after four o'clock, we heard a violent 
ringing of the church-bell and saw the people flocking out 
onto the streets; looking up at the church-tower, although 
we did not feel the shock, we saw that the whole church was 
being violently shaken, and that the ringing bells, which we 
had heard, were not moved by human hands. This third 
shock of the day was more strongly felt in other districts, 
than with us. In the City of Mexico, three hundred miles 
away, it was the most severe of the day. 

The whole town was in commotion; people threw them- 
selves upon their knees in the streets and prayed to the 
Virgin for protection. Later in the day, we saw a priest 
and a saint's figure passing through the streets, and as they 
passed the people paid reverence. Surely the little proces- 
sion, illegal though it was, must have been successful, for 
there were no further shocks. We found here a most inter- 
esting superstition, which we had not met before, but which 
we heard several times later, in other districts. We were 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 139 

assured that the earthquake was but one of many signs that 
the world was coming to an end. We discovered that 
thousands of the people expected the ending of the world 
in 1900, and when we asked why, were reminded that this 
was the last year of the century. This is certainly a sur- 
vival of ancient superstition. The old Mexicans did not 
count their years by hundreds or centuries, as we do, but by 
cycles of 52 years each. It was believed that the world 
would come to an end at the close of a cycle, and impor- 
tant ceremonies were conducted to avert such a catastro- 
phe- It is clear that the old idea, of the destruction of the 
world at the close of a cycle, has been transferred to the 
new mode of reckoning time. 

From Tlaxiaco to Teposcolula, there was a cart-road, 
though it was possible that no carreta ever passed over it. 
It presented little good scenery. We passed the pueblos 
of San Martin Jilmeca, San Felipe, and San Miguel. Just 
before reaching the first of these towns, the road passes over 
a coarse rock mass, which weathers into spheroidal shells. 
At Jilmeca and some other points along the day's route the 
rock over which we passed was a white tufaceous material 
loaded with streaks of black flint. Sometimes this black 
flint passes into chert and chalcedony of blue and purple 
tints. Here and there, along the mountain sides, we caught 
glimpses of rock exposures, which looked snow-white in 
the distance. Between Jilmeca and San Felipe there was 
a pretty brook, with fine cypresses along the banks, and a 
suspension bridge of great logs. Having passed through 
San Felipe and San Miguel, a pleasant road, through a 
gorge, brought us to the valley in which Teposcolula lies. 
The great convent church, historically interesting, is strik- 
ing in size and architecture. The priest, an excellent man, 
is a pure-blooded Mixtec Indian, talking the language as 
his mother tongue. With great pride he showed us about 



I40 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the building, which was once a grand Dominican monas- 
tery. The old carved wooden cupboard for gold and silver 
articles, used in the church service, is fine work. The gold 
and silver articles for which it was built have long since dis- 
appeared. In the patio are many old paintings, most of 
which are badly damaged, and some of which have been 
repaired with pieces cut from other pictures, not at all like 
the missing piece. Among these pictures is a series of 
scenes from the life of Santo Domingo. Of the figures in 
the church, two are fairly good; one, which is famous, 
represents Our Lady of the Rosary. In a little chapel are 
buried the remains of the old friars; here also is a beau- 
tiful old carved confessional. In front of the old church 
is a great court surrounded by a stone wall, which is sur- 
mounted here and there with little, pointed, square pillars. 
To the right of the church is a mass of masonry, in reddish- 
brown freestone, consisting of a series of arches, now more 
or less in ruins. When the convent was at the height of its 
splendor, the crowd of worshippers was too large for the 
church itself, and these beautiful arches were erected to 
receive the overflow. In the church itself, the plaster in the 
domes of the towers and the coloring on the walls and domes 
had chipped and fallen, on account of the earthquake, the 
day before. In the ruins of the upper rooms of the convent 
proper, stone and mortar, dislodged from the decaying walls 
by the same shocks, lay in little heaps on the floor. 

The cura had ten churches in his charge. He says 
there are 2,000 people in Teposcolula, few of whom are 
Indians. In his ten churches, he has 12,000 parishioners. 
He seemed a devout man, and emphasized the importance 
of his preaching to his congregation in their native tongue 
and his. So convinced is he that the native idiom of the 
people is the shortest road to their heart and understanding, 
that he has prepared a catechism and Christian doctrine 




Triqui Children; Chicahuastla 




MiXTEC Potter; Cuquila 



IN THE MIXTECA ALTA 141 

in the modern Mixtec, which has been printed. The town 
itself is desolate; the plaza is much too large, and dwarfs 
the buildings which surround it, and signs of desolation and 
decay mark everything. With the fondness which Mexi- 
cans show for high-sounding and pious inscriptions, the 
municipality has painted, upon the side of the town-house, 
in full sight for a long distance, the words, "Nations to be 
great and free must be educated." From here to Noch- 
ixtlan there was nothing of special interest. For some four 
leagues the road was through a gorge; from this valley 
we mounted to the height, just before reaching the town of 
Tiltepec, from which we caught an extensive view down 
over the great valley in which Nochixtlan and this town lie. 
From Tiltepec we had a rather tiresome, hot, and painful 
ride, passing San Juan Tillo and Santiago Tillo. By half 
past one we were again in the city of Nochixtlan. 



CHAPTER XII 

THE MIXES REVISITED 
(1899) 

AFTER resting at Oaxaca, from our trip into the high 
Mixteca, we made preparations for our new journey, 
leaving at three o'clock in the afternoon for the land of the 
Zapotecs and Mixes. Our late start compelled stopping 
at Tule for the night. In the morning we went on to Tla- 
colula, w^here we nooned, in order to see the jefe in regard 
to our work. He is a competent man, showed great inter- 
est in our plan, and gave valuable advice, in addition to the 
orders to his officials. He warned us that we might meet 
some difficulty at ^lilta, where we were planning to make 
our study of the Zapotecs, on account of the fiesta then in 
progress. He told us to notify him at once in case matters 
did not go well there. 

The fiesta at Milta should have been a three days' 
affair. This year, however, it began on Sunday with the 
result that it filled four days. Reaching there in the after- 
noon of ISIonday, we found the whole town in great excite- 
ment and dissipation. The plaza had been enclosed with 
a fencing of poles, and toros were the amusement of the 
afternoon. The country sports with bulls are different 
from the regular bull-fights of the cities. Any one takes 
part who pleases, and while there is little of trained skill, 
there is often much of fun, frolic, and daring. The bull 
is led into the ring from outside by a lasso. It is then lassoed 
from behind and dragged up to a post or tree, to which it is 

firmly tied to prevent its moving. A rope is then tightly 

142 




In Ti,ac()i.ui-A 




t^ 



Typical Zapotec House; Tlacolula 



THE MIXES REVISITED 143 

cinched about its middle and a man mounts upon the back 
of the beast, fixing his feet firmly in the rope below, between 
it and the animal, and winding his hands into it above. 
The ropes which hold the bull are then withdrawn so as to 
set it loose. Dozens of men and big boys, with jackets 
and serapes, then torment the beast, which, plunging and 
dashing at them, scatters them in every direction. Some- 
times the angry animal attempts to break through the 
fence, causing excitement and consternation among the 
crowds who have been hanging to it and looking over. 
When, as sometimes happens, he does break through, 
there is great scattering before him, and closing in behind 
him, until he is again captured. The man riding on the 
bull's back clings as long as he can, in spite of the plunging 
and other frantic efforts of the animal to unseat him; com- 
paratively few stay long in their uncomfortable position, 
and when they are thrown, much agility is required to 
escape from the furious animal. 

As we rode into town these sports were in full blast; 
everyone, save the bull-fighters, was drunk. Now and then 
a tube of iron filled with powder was exploded. A band 
in front of the municipal house was supplying music. A 
little group of men with pitos and tambours strolled from 
place to place, playing. Much selling was in progress in 
the booths, the chief articles offered being intoxicating 
drinks. A cluster of drunken vocalists, sitting flat upon 
the ground, but almost unable to hold themselves upright, 
were singing horribly to untuned guitars. In front of the 
town-house a bench had been dragged out by the authori- 
ties for the benefit of the cura, who, seated thereon, was 
watching the sports with maudlin gravity. The presidente 
and other officials were standing by the padre, and all were 
drinking at frequent intervals. Thinking the moment 
opportune, I approached the party and handed them my 



144 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

documents; but both presidente and priest were far too 
drunk to realize my needs. Surveying the drunken town, 
I felt that it was necessary to act promptly and firmly if we 
were to accomplish anything before the fiesta ended. The 
only member of the government who was not extremely 
drunk that afternoon was the sindico. Calling him to 
me, I addressed him, scorning both priest and presi- 
dente. I refused to drink with them, saying that they were 
already too drunk to know their duties, and that both 
should be ashamed of their condition. At this time the 
cur a asked me if I were a clergyman. On my replying no, 
he remarked that I looked like one. I told him yes, that I 
was frequently mistaken foi* one; that a priest in the Mix- 
teca had even thought that I was a bishop. He then 
drunkenly inquired whether I were married, and on my 
replying no, made the astonishing observation that then, it 
was certain that I could not be a priest, — that every priest 
had one wife, bishops two, and archbishops three. This 
drunken priest had just been making certain observations 
to the presidente calculated to interfere with my work, 
and I felt that I now had my opportunity. So, turning 
upon him, I gravely reproved him for his remark. I told 
him that, in his language and his drunkenness, he was set- 
ting a bad example to his parish ; that he should go at once 
to the curato, and not venture forth during the time that we 
remained in the town. Half -sobered by my order, he arose 
without a word, went to his house, and did not again appear 
for four days. Having gotten him out of the way, I turned 
to the drunken officials and told them that, early the next 
morning, I should begin my work, and that they must make 
the needful preparations; that I wished to measure, photo- 
graph, and make busts of the population. I told them 
that at present they were too damk to aid me, but that the 
following morning things must be different; that enough 



THE MIXES REVISITED 



H5 



at least to attend to my orders must be sober. After sup- 
per, attracted by the noise and hubbub, we set out to see 
the plaza. Torches were flaring in every direction, and 
considerable business was being done at all the booths. 
Crowds of drunken people were squatting on the ground 
in all directions; at the town-house the band of music was 
playing the jarabe, and 40 or 50 persons were dancing this 
lively dance. Old and young, men and women, boys and 
girls, all were taking part; no one paid attention to any 
other person, but each seemed to be trying to prove himself 
the most agile of the party. All were drunk, some aston- 
ishingly so. Occasionally a dancer would bump against 
such an one, who would fall head over heels. Immediately 
picking himself up, he would go at it again, with even 
greater vigor; sometimes one fell, of himself, in a helpless 
heap, and lay where he fell, until kicked out of the way 
or until the music stopped. All around was pandemonium; 
yelling, singing, cursing, fighting were in progress; the jail 
was crowded, but every now and then a new case was 
dragged up; for an instant the door was opened, and against 
the crowd, pushing from within, the new prisoner would 
be crowded into the cell. At one time in the evening a cry 
arose that a murder was being committed in the jail. The 
door was opened, the policemen crowded in, and the two 
men who had clinched and were battling were torn apart. 
One was dragged outside and thrown into the woman's 
jail, and for a time the air was blue with the most insulting 
cries. Convinced that no work could be done in the after- 
noons, we labored with the greatest possible diligence each 
morning. The first morning, going to the town-house, we 
ordered subjects to be brought. The presidente was drunk; 
the sindico also; still, some of the town officials were found 
in a condition able to do our bidding. Having measured a 
few of the officials, we proposed to take such prisoners as 



146 IN INDIAN MEXICO 



still remained in the jail, from the batch of the preceding 
day. There were eighteen of these, and with them we made 
a good beginning. Among the prisoners we found our first 
subject for modelling. Oiling him, we began to make the 
moulds. The back-piece had been applied; the second 
piece, covering the lower part of the face and upper chest, 
was hardening, and we were busily engaged in putting on 
the final application over the upper part of the face. At 
this moment the presidente staggered into the jail. When 
his eyes fell upon our subject, he stopped aghast; for a 
moment he was unable to speak; then he groaned out the 
words, "O horrible spectacle! To think of seeing a son 
of this town in such a position! " As I was beginning to 
laugh and ridicule him, the old mother of the young man 
came bursting into the jail, weeping and trembling, to see 
what fate had overtaken her son. Wringing her hands, 
the tears rolled down her face, and her voice was choked 
with sobs, as she asked pitifully whether he must die; she 
told me that he was her only support, and that, without 
him, she was absolutely alone. Taking the old woman 
outside, while the mask should be completed, I chatted 
with her, Eind as soon as the pieces of the mould were re- 
moved, delivered her precious son, unharmed, into her 
hands. 

Just as we were ready for a new subject, a young fellow, 
better dressed than most, passed by. We called him to 
come in and be measured, but with a somewhat insolent 
manner, he walked by, paying no attention to our words. 
Sending the policemen for him, they soon returned with the 
report, "No quiere^^ (He does not care to come). To 
allow a first refusal was not to be thought of, so we ordered 
his return. Again the policemen came back with no result. 
Thereupon I declared that no more work should be done 
until he came; that time would be lost thereby, and the 



THE MIXES REVISITED 147 

jeje^s order would be disregarded, but that it was not our 
fault. Upon this the presidente informed us that the order 
was not explicit; it did not state that people must be meas- 
ured; he would consult the civil code to see whether any- 
one but criminals must be measured. "Very good," said 
I, "do as you like; but unless that young man is brought 
in we shall send complaint to the jefe; send for a messen- 
ger at once to carry my report." At this stage, the police- 
men returned, telling me that the young man wanted did 
not belong to this town; that he could not be found, and 
probably had gone home. We told them that we did not 
believe them, but that we would proceed with our work; 
however, I said, that, if he really were a stranger but ap 
peared again, I should order his immediate arrest and jail- 
ing. To this they all agreed; and we continued work until 
the t6wn was again too drunk for anything to be done. 

About the middle of the afternoon, when the bull-fight- 
ing was at its height, the young man wanted appeared in the 
ring as the chief fighter and attraction of the day. Step- 
ping at once to the policemen I told them that he must be 
brought immediately to the town-house, — that the bull- 
fight must cease while our matters were arranged. With 
much grumbling and complaint they obeyed. The young 
man dismounted from his bull and was brought by the 
policeman before us. Here we asked the sindico the name 
and residence of the young man; and, as we supposed, he 
belonged in Mitla. Asking him why he had not come to be 
measured when he was told to do so, he replied that we had 
already measured him. Telling him that lying would not 
save him, I commanded him to appear the following morn- 
ing for measurement, — that otherwise he would be sent a 
prisoner to Oaxaca. In the morning he did not appear 
until ofi&cials were sent to bring him. After he had gone 
through the ordeal of measurement he swore eternal friend 



148 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ship to me, and at no time afterward was I able to pass him, 
on the street or in the square, without his begging me to 
drink tepacke with him. 

Mitla is famous for its weaving; fine manias of wool 
are made there in two chief styles — one a long strip of 
black or blue-black cloth, the other a rich red, sometimes 
banded or striped with black. These Mitla manias are 
widely sold to Zapotecs, in all the district around, and form 
the characteristic women's dress. The Zapotecs of this 
district wear something on their feet that more nearly 
resembles true shoes than the footgear of any other Indians 
in southern Mexico. The sandal of the man has a pro- 
jecting heel-flap which is bound around the ankles by means 
of thongs, and forms a good protection to the hind part of the 
foot. The women have not only such a flap, even higher 
than that used by the men, but also a broad strip of leather 
over the forward part of the foot, leaving the toes peeping 
out in front; between the heel flap and the toe covering, 
the foot is quite as well enclosed, excepting for the toes, as 
in a white man's shoe. 

It was quite impossible, with the amount of work we 
had to do, and the difficulties under which we labored, to 
give the least attention to the ruins. We arranged, however, 
to make a photograph of the town authorities standing in 
the great court of one of the fine old buildings — a court 
the walls of which are covered with beautiful mosaic deco- 
rations, betraying taste and skill. The motley crew of 
half-drunk officials, miserably dressed, degraded, poor, in 
this scene of past magnificence, called up thoughts of the 
contrast between the government of old Mitla and the 
present, — of past magnificence and modern squalor. 

Having accomplished all we wished at Mitla, we again 
struck eastward toward the land of the Mixes. Late in 
starting, we made no attempt to go further than San Loren- 



THE MIXES REVISITED 149 

zo that afternoon. The old road was familiar, and from 
there on, through the following day, everything came back 
to memory. Even individual trees, projecting rock masses, 
and little streams, were precisely as we remembered them 
from our journey of three years earlier. We reached 
Ayutla in the evening a little before sunset. Riding directly 
to the municipal house we summoned the town govern- 
ment. We had not provided ourselves with orders from 
the jeje of the district, as Villa Alta, the jejatura, lay far 
out of our course. We planned to use our general letter 
from the governor. When the officials assembled we pre- 
sented our order and explained it; we told them what we 
needed for the night, and arrangements were at once made 
for supplying us; we then told the presidente of the work 
we had before us, and informed him that, because his town 
was small, we should ask for only thirty-five men for meas- 
urement, and that these must be ready, early in the morning, 
with no trouble to us. 

The presidente demurred; he doubted whether the peo- 
ple would come to be measured; we told him that they 
would not come, of course, unless he sent for them. When 
morning came, although everything had been done for our 
comfort, there was no sign of subjects. That no time might 
be lost, we took the presidente and three or four other offi- 
cials, who were waiting around the house ; then, with firmness, 
we ordered that he should bring other subjects. The offi- 
cials were gone for upwards of an hour, and when they 
returned, had some ten or twelve men with them. "Ah," 
said I, ''you have brought these, then, for measurement? " 
"On the contrary, sir," said the presidente, "this is a com- 
mittee of the principal men of the town who have come to 
tell you that the people do not wish to be measured." "Ah," 
said I, "so you are a committee, are you, come to tell me 
that you do not wish to be fneasured?" "Yes." Wait- 



I50 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ing a moment, I turned to the officials and asked, *'And 
which one particularly does not wish to be measured of this 
committee?" Immediately, a most conservative-looking 
individual was pointed out. Addressing him, I said, "And 
so you do not wish to be measured? " "No sir," said he, 
•'I will not be measured." "Very good," said I. "What 
is your name? " He told us. I marked it down upon my 
blank, and wrote out the description of his person. Then, 
seizing my measuring rod, I said to him quite sharply, 
"Well, well! Take off your hat and sandals. We must 
lose no time! " And before he really realized what we were 
doing, I had taken his measurements. Having finished with 
him, I turned again to the presidente. "And what other 
member of the committee particularly objects to being 
measured?" As I spoke, another man was indicated. 
Turning to him, I said, "Let us lose no time. Take off 
your hat and sandals while I measure you." In an instant 
the thing was done. The operation was carried through. 
Before I had finished with the second case, the others began 
to smile and snicker, and when I was ready for my third 
subject I simply asked, "Who next? " and they came one 
after another without complaint. Having measured all 
the members of the committee, I soberly addressed them. 
"Now, if there is any harm in this that I have done, you are 
all as badly off as can be. If I were you, I would try to get 
as many other people in the same position as I could; go 
out and bring in others." Before noon the work was done, 
and we were ready to go on to Juquila. 

We rested, however, the balance of the day, and spent 
a second night at Ayutla. The day had been given to drink- 
ing, throughout the town. It will be remembered that the 
village proper lies on a terrace, upon a slope above the 
town-house. As we sat before the house, in the afternoon 
and evening, we heard from time to time yells and cries 



THE MIXES REVISITED 151 

above. Some policemen, who were standing up there to 
keep order, would then appear upon the edge of the slope, 
and, waving their hands, would loudly cry for help; then 
the policemen from the town-house would run to their 
assistance, and in a little time the party would return, drag- 
ging one or more victims to the jail. This operation con- 
tinued from early in the afternoon until late at night; fully 
fifteen or twenty persons were brought down from the vil- 
lage to the jail during that time. 

We had hoped to find the valley of clouds, and the great 
cloud cataract, on the road to Juquila, but were doomed to 
disappointment. When we stood upon the summit, looking 
down into what before had been the sea of mist, the whole 
place was clear, and everything, to the very bottom of the 
valley, was visible. The further journey seemed more tedious 
than before, and the latter part of the road seemed truly 
endless. There was not a breath of air; the sun poured 
its hot rays down mercilessly. Long before we reached 
Juquila I felt, for the first time in Mexico, that I was suffer- 
ing from fever. After seven and a half hours on the road, 
we reached the town at i :3o in the afternoon, and went at 
once to the town-house, where we were well received, and 
arrangements were made for our comfort. When they 
saw that I was suffering, they brought out hammocks, of 
which I made no use. Making myself a bed of blankets 
upon the floor, I lay down in my misery and covered myself 
from the world, a blanket over my head. After some hours, 
I felt that we were losing time, and that we must, at least, 
make arrangements for the work of the following day. It 
was now dusk. I sent for the officials, and when they 
appeared, told them that, notwithstanding my suffering, 
I could not lose time, and that early in the morning they 
must bring persons for measurement. There was a good 
deal of discussion over the matter. The officials were dis- 



152 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

satisfied that my order was not signed by the jeje of their 
district and dated from San Carlos. They suggested that 
we send a messenger to San Carlos to inquire whether the 
order was all right. I replied that four days would be con- 
sumed in going and coming; that time was precious, and 
that it was impossible for us to wait. Seeing that they were 
likely to refuse to do what I wished, I made a little speech, 
in which I told them they had better do what I asked, and 
that promptly. No one so far had recognized me as having 
been there before. I told them that they had never had 
better friend that I; that this was not the first time I had 
visited Juquila; that when I came before I had had diffi- 
culty; that my companion, presenting an order from the 
governor, had been badly received by their presidente, wha 
tried to do him violence; that if I had reported this inci- 
dent, they knew well what would have happened; that, 
however, being their good friend, I had never reported 
it. Having jogged their memory regarding the past, I 
suggested to them that a report of the previous occurrence, 
with their present disregard of orders, might be serious. 
I told them that they knew what I desired ; that they might 
at once inform me whether it would be done or not ; if they 
decided in the negative, the secrctario and my mozo must 
start at once on foot to Oaxaca, carrying my complaint to 
the governor; that, as for me, having started them upon 
their journey, I should leave early the following morning 
going to some to^m where the people knew w^hat obedience 
to the law meant. They at once promised that no time 
should be lost, and that, the following morning, I should 
have the subjects for whom I asked, viz., thirty-five men 
and twenty-five women. Nor was it simply promises; 
having told tliem that I would begin early in the morning 
whether I were well or ill, and that I wanted no delay, we 
found our thirty-five men waiting, at seven o'clock. 




4* 






THE MIXES REVISITED 155 

At Juquila the system of public crying from the plaza 
is fully developed. The town lies in a valley, and most of 
the houses are on slopes surrounding the little plain or ter- 
race upon which the plaza is situated on which the govern- 
ment house is built. When aid was needed by the town 
authorities, whether zacate for our horses, food for our- 
selves, objects for inspection, or what not, one of the offi- 
cers, whose business it seemed to be, stepped out upon the 
plaza, and, raising his voice would cry out what was needed 
by the authorities. Whoever had the things desired, com- 
ing out before their houses, would cry back the amount, 
description and variety of the articles they could supply. 
This we found to be the constant practice. 

Nothwithstanding the clearness of the preceding day, 
our day of working was cold, damp, and foggy. The sea 
of cloud and cataract of mists must have been in full opera- 
tion. Where we were, a heavy wind was blowing and, 
before night, rain falling. We had not thought of the possi- 
bility of heavy storms or damaged roads at this time of the 
year, but, before night came, the people of the village ex- 
pressed surprise that we should talk of leaving the next 
morning. They assured us that at Quezaltepec and 
Ixcuintepec it was surely raining heavily, and that the roads 
would be wet, slippery and impassable. Long before we 
went to bed, a gale was blowing and wc felt doubts re- 
garding further progress. In the morning it was still wet 
and chilly; all told of terrible roads and risks in proceed 
ing; we delayed. Finally, we decided to press on at least 
to Ocotopec. We had tried to send the mozos forward with 
our baggage, but it was plain they would not move until 
we did. Finally, somewhat after nine, we started. It was 
still heavy and chilly; we found the road much better than 
we feared ; at some points it was slippery, but not for long 
distances. Until we were on the final descent to Ocotopec 



154 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

we were sheltered from the cold wind. To be sure, here 
and there, where the road passed little funnel openings along 
the crest, we felt fully the cold wind loaded with mist. 

We noticed, what on the other trip escaped my attention, 
the profound difference in vegetation between the two sides 
of the hill upon the crest of which we were travelling. 
The one slope, cold and damp, was densely forested with 
trees, loaded with air-plants and orchids. The other slope, 
warmer and drier, was far less heavily grown, and in large 
part, with pines. Among the plants noticed by the roadside 
was a species of pinguicula which was very common on 
damp clay-cuttings. Its leaves form a close, flat rosette 
upon the ground, from which a slender stalk rises, with a 
a single crimson flower. When we reached the final descent 
to the town, we caught the full force of the cold, mist-laden 
wind, which struck our faces and made us shiver. Yet it 
was on this very slope, so frequently cold and wet, that the 
oaks, covered with air-plants and blooming orchids, were at 
their finest. Ferns in astonishing variety, from the most 
delicate, through giant herbaceous forms, to magnificent 
tree-ferns; lycopods of several species, and selaginellas, 
in tufts, covered the slopes; and great banks of begonias, 
in fine bloom, showed themselves. Before we reached the 
village we were forced to dismount, on account of the slip- 
pery condition of the road, and entered town on foot. 

In our other journey Ocotopec made no impression on 
us. It is really one of the most picturesque and interesting 
of the Mixe towns. It is built upon a slope, which is cut and 
built into a series of little terraced gardens; clusters or 
groups of houses stand on the terraces. The houses are 
rectangular, built of adobe brick and heavy thatch, with a 
thick comb of thatch riding the ridge. Unlike most Mixe 
churches, the church at Ocotopec is entire, and in good 
condition. It is built of stone. The town is purely Indian, 



THE MIXES REVISITED 



^5S 



and the type is the best we had seen. Had there been light 
for photographing, we should have stopped there and done 
our work, instead of passing on to Ixcuintepec. As it was, 
we spent the night, and were well treated. Leaving early in 
the morning, we hurried to Quezaltepec for dinner, the road 
being better than we had anticipated. The town is prettily 
distributed upon a curved crest; the houses are neat, built 
of adobe or of poles daubed with mud. Much fruit is 
grown here, and coffee is an important crop. In almost 
every yard mats were spread out, on which coffee was dry- 
ing, or being sorted by people squatting on the ground. 
Considerable cotton is woven at this point. 

Leaving at 3 40, the evening ride through the forest was 
magnificent. The flora was such as we have before de- 
scribed. As we rode through the higher forests, we con- 
stantly heard birds, notable among which were the clarins, 
with their fine clear notes. It was dark before we reached 
Camotlan. Nowhere had we been better treated. We 
were shown at once into a clean room, and were soon sur- 
rounded by bustle and preparation for our comfort. There 
are but 143 inhabitants, of whom six — four men and two 
women — have goitres. We had been previously in- 
formed that the whole town was goitrous. There were 
three deaf-mutes, but no idiots, in the town. Inquiring for 
books printed in the Mixe tongue, we were informed that 
the choir-master had one. On expressing my desire to 
see it, they sent to bring him. We were astonished at his 
appearance. The messengers who brought him carried 
him in their arms, and set him down upon the floor, when 
we saw that he had been bom without legs, and with sadly 
deformed arms and hands. Yet, when once placed upon 
the floor, he moved about easily, and had a cheery face 
and sunny temper. He was delighted to show us his book 
and took the greatest pride in reading from it. It is truly 



156 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

remarkable that he can do this. The book was written in 
the dialect of Juquila of more than 170 years ago. The 
dialect of Juquila was no doubt then different from that of 
Camotlan, and during the 170 years there have been great 
changes, even in that town itself. As I watched the man 
read from his book, I noticed that he pronounced parts of 
words differently from the way in which they were spelled; 
how he had worked out for himself, unaided, the proper 
meaning and purport of the words was a myster}'. I had 
intended to purchase the book, but found him so attached 
to it that I gave up the plan. Had he been a normal man, 
I should have insisted; but then, if he had been a normal 
man, he would not have had the book nor known how to 
read it. 

From Camotlan we rode steadily for five hours to reach 
Ixcuintepec. There were considerable stretches of slip- 
pery road to be passed. The two gorge rides, the bridges 
of vines, and the houses along the way, were beautiful as 
ever, but the magnificent mountain forests were left entirely 
behind us. The old church at Ixcuintepec is visible on tlie 
high crest for a considerable distance. As we made tlie 
final climb, the boys noticed in the trees structures one 
and a half feet or two feet in diameter, and somewhat dome- 
shaped. I should have taken them for wasps' nests, but 
the party insisted that they saw parrots come out of them, 
and that no doubt young parrots were in the nests. Imme- 
diately there was great excitement, for Manuel had all 
along wanted to capture a parrot to take home with him. 
The party stopped, and stones were thrown to drive out 
the birds, but with no result. Finally Mariano climbed the 
tree, creeping out along the branches almost to the nest; 
just at that moment an unusually well-aimed stone struck 
the nest, but instead of parrots, out streamed a great 
cloud of wasps, which flew straight towards the mozo^ 




O" 



THE MIXES REVISITED 157 

who lost no time in getting down from his precarious 
position. 

We found Ixcu in tepee almost deserted; hardly any of 
the town officials were there. Almost everyone was off, 
working in the coffee fincas. We quickly saw that we had 
made a great mistake in waiting for our remaining sub- 
jects until this town. Not only were men conspicuous by 
their absence, but the women were extremely hostile. 
They objected to our photographing their houses or them- 
selves. They drove the messenger whom I had sent to 
measure a house, for the purpose of making a miniature 
reproduction, off the premises with clubs. The mozos, 
who had accompanied us thus far, had no intention of going 
farther, and the problem of getting carriers — which had 
troubled us ever since we had left Mitla — assumed serious 
proportions. It was with great difficulty and much bluster 
that we secured the food we needed and the mozos. When 
the mozos came, three out of the four whom it was necessary 
for us to employ, were mere boys, the heartiest and best of 
whom was scarcely ten years old. In vain we declared 
that it was impossible for such little fellows to carry the 
burdens that needed transportation. It was plain that they 
were our only resource. Starting the three boys upon a 
short cut to San Miguel, the oldest mozo and ourselves went 
by another road to Coatlan. It was fortunate for us that 
the school-teacher at this town was interested in our work. 
We took possession of the school-house, showed our orders 
to the officials, and, after much difficulty, obtained our 
wishes. The town was almost as deserted as had been 
Ixcuintepec, but after infinite difficulty, we succeeded in 
getting sufficient subjects to complete our work. 

We had thought ourselves unfortunate at Ixcuintepec 
and Coatlan; the worst lay before us. We found San 
Miguel deserted. Our three mozos who had been paid, and 



158 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ordered to go simply to that village, and there to leave 
our things, had left before we arrived. The man who 
had come with us, we had dismissed before we realized con- 
ditions. The coffee had been gathered for the season ; the 
chief man of the place was in the mountains; there was no 
town government; neither prayers, threats, nor bribes pro- 
duced food for ourselves and our horses; two or three men 
around the place would not be hired as mozos. We finally 
were forced to leave our busts, plaster, photographic outfit 
and plates on a bench under an open shed, and go on alone 
to Santiago Guevea. It was a bitter disappointment, be- 
cause our previous experience at San Miguel had been so 
pleasant and interesting. 

When we left Coatlan that morning, it had been through 
clouds and drizzling rain. When we passed through San 
Miguel, conditions were but little better. From there, we 
went through a gorge road, everywhere passing little planta- 
tions of coffee, bananas, and tobacco. Finally, we began 
our last mountain or forest climb. The wind with the 
rain became colder and more penetrating. At the summit, 
we found a typical norther raging, and at points our animals 
and ourselves were almost blown from the crest. In good 
weather the road is long, but through this it was dreadful. 
Few towns compare in beauty of location, and appearance 
from a distance, with Santiago Guevea. It was nearly 
five when we drew up in front of the crowded town-house. 
It will be remembered that this town is Zapotec, Coatlan 
being the last Mixe town. The school-teacher interested 
himself in our welfare, securing for us a real sleeping-room 
with cots, putting our horses into the corridor of the school- 
house, and arranging for our meals. Chocolate and bread 
were at once furnished, and at eight o'clock a good supper 
was sent to our room. In the plaza outside, the wind was 
blowing a hurricane and the cold cut like a knife; but, tlie 



THE MIXES REVISITED 159 

house in which we slept was tight and warm. In the morn- 
ing, we found the wild weather still continuing. It had 
been out of the question to send mozos to San Miguel the 
night before, and it seemed wicked to start them out in such 
a storm of wind, fog, rain and cold. Still, our time was 
precious, and we ordered men sent to the place where our 
stuff had been left, to fetch it; meanwhile, we decided to 
wait until they should appear. Our animals had had 
nothing to eat the previous day, except a litde com we had 
brought with us from Coatlan. We therefore ordered 
zacate brought for them. The night before, I had inquired 
regarding the acquaintances we had made at San Miguel 
in our previous trip. I learned that the man had died 
less than a month before, but that the widow, the four 
boys and the little girl, having finished their work at the 
coffee finca at San Miguel, were in town. Accordingly we 
called at the house. The woman immediately recognized 
me, and asked after Don Ernesto. The boys were sleeping, 
bedded on piles of coffee, but were routed from their slum- 
ber to greet us. At first, none of them remembered me, but 
the little girl did, and soon Castolo also. Their house was 
comfortable, and piles of com, coffee, and bananas were 
stacked up in the place. They invited us to stop with them, 
but we were already well housed by the authorities. As we 
left, the woman went to the comer, and, from a pile of simi- 
lar objects, took two things neatly wrapped in com-husks. 
On opening them, we found that they were eggs, which are 
frequently wrapped in this way for storage, in all the indian 
towns. Although we had ordered food for the horses, at 
seven o'clock it had not appeared. We called at the town- 
house several times, but still no zacate. Our dinner came, 
and the aftemoon passed, but still no fodder for the horses 
was produced, and the poor animals had eaten nothing, prac 
tically, for two whole days, although subjected to hard work 



i6o IN INDIAN MEXICO 

and the pelting storm. We anxiously watched for the com- 
ing of the mozos with our equipment. The storm, though 
still raging, was abating, and we could see well down the 
road. When, at half past three in the afternoon, there was 
no sign of either men or fodder, we called the town authori- 
ties to account. We told them that we would wait no 
longer in a town where our animals could only starve; that 
they must forward our boxes, plaster and busts promptly to 
Tehauntepec; that we should hold them responsible for 
loss or delay, and that all should be delivered at the office 
of the jefe. Paying no attention to their entreaties that 
we should wait a little longer for the fodder, which they 
promised, as they had so many times before, would come 
soon, we saddled our animals, and at 4:20 left the town. 
Just as we started, little Castolo appeared with two bunches 
of zacate sent by his mother, as a present to Don Federico. 
Certainly, there must be a new and better road from 
Guevea to Santa Maria than the one we traversed in our 
other journey, and which again, following from memory, 
we used. It was a fearful trail, neglected and ruined, over 
slippery rock and rough, sharp-splintered stone. Still we 
pressed on rapidly, making even better time than we had 
been assured at the town that we might expect to make. 
Never were we more happy than in reaching Santa Maria, 
lovely in the moonlight, with its great church, fine munici- 
pal-house, cocoa-nut trees and thatched huts. Here was 
no sign either of the norther or the rain. The next day's 
journey was over the hot dusty road with glimpses now and 
then of the distant Pacific and Tlacotopec for destination. 
The following morning we pressed on toward Tehuantepec, 
through the dust and heat, reaching the city at noonday. 
To our great surprise, we found the mozos, with the plaster, 
the busts, and the boxes of plates, waiting for us since four 
o'clock in the morning. 



CHAPTER XIII 

ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 
(1899) 

SINCE our former visit to Tehuantepec, that hot and 
dusty city had suffered terrible misfortune. Through 
a period of several months it v^as subject to frequent shocks 
of earthquakes; for a time these were of daily occurrence, 
and on one occasion there were seventeen in a single day. 
The town still showed the destruction produced by these 
earthquake shocks, although for some months past there 
had been none. Houses, stores, churches, all presented 
great cracks and bare spots from which plaster had fallen. 
Many of the people had left the city permanently; those 
who remained were completely discouraged and unwilling 
to spend trouble and money in the repair of their houses. 
Tehuantepec is, of course, a city of considerable size; sit- 
uated on a railroad, it has lost its importance since that 
thoroughfare was constructed. It was, formerly, the nat- 
ural point through which all the produce of the surrounding 
country passed; the railroad has given similar opportunity 
to other places, to the loss of Tehuantepec. Between 
earthquakes, the damage resulting from the railroad, and 
the location of the military forces at Juchitan, not far dis- 
tant, the town is declining. It is still, however, the cahe- 
cera, and the jefe is a man of some force and vigor. Shortly 
after our arrival, I visited his office, delivered the governor's 
letter, and stated our purpose in visiting his city. He 
seemed interested, and at once stated that there would be 

no difficulty in carrying out my plans; that I would find 

161 



i62 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

plenty of women for measurement in Tehuantepec itself; 
that the loo men had better be secured at San Bias, which, 
although independent in government, adjoins Tehuante- 
pec. I suggested that it would be well to measure the 
women in the court-yard of his palace; he, however, re- 
plied, "By no means; it will be much better to go directly 
to the market, where the women are gathered in great 
numbers; a regidor will accompany you to arrange the 
matter with your subjects." 

Although convinced that his plan was bad, we arranged 
to begin work the following morning; with instruments 
and regidor we presented ourselves in the market, picking 
out a suitable spot and preparing for work. Then I told 
the regidor to bring a subject. The market-place was 
crowded, probably two or three hundred women being there 
gathered. Approaching the nearest of them, the regidor 
politely asked her to step up and be measured. We were 
not, however, dealing with Triquis. The women of Te- 
huantepec are certainly the heads of their houses; the men 
occupy but an inferior position. Possibly, they are really 
larger than their husbands, but, whether that be true or not, 
they give that impression to the spectator. The lady indi- 
cated lost no time in assuring the regidor that she had no 
intention of being measured, and he returned crest-fallen to 
report results. He met with no sympathy. I told him he 
had been sent to bring the women, that my business was 
simply to measure them; that if he would do his duty, I 
would do mine. He made two other efforts, equally futile, 
and finally returning, said he thought an order would be 
necessary. I told him, if he had not already an order 
I did not know what an order was; that the jeje had dis- 
tinctly told me what he was to do; that he was not doing it. 
He then said he had better go to the palace a moment; 
would I kindly wait. I waited. He soon reappeared, and 



ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 163 

started in bravely with a new subject, but was again re- 
pulsed. Returning, he said that we had better go up to the 
palace and interview the jeje again. I replied that I had no 
time to spare; that we had already lost two hours at the 
palace, waiting for the jefe to appear, and that I did not 
propose to lose more time; that he knew what I expected, 
and must either do it, or I would return to my hotel. He 
helplessly remarked that we had better see the jefe, where- 
upon I picked up my instruments and departed to the hotel. 
Leaving my instruments at the hotel, I decided, while mat- 
ters were adjusting themselves — for I had no thought of 
bothering myself further — to call upon the bishop. Sally- 
ing from the hotel, I met upon the street the regidor and two 
other town officials, who were awaiting me. "Sir," said 
he, "will you not measure the women?" "No," said I, 
"I am going to call upon the bishop. I have no time to 
waste. We went once to measure the women, but you had 
no power; your jeje plainly is a man without authority." 
"No, sir," cried he, "the jefe has issued a strict order that 
the women must be measured." "No matter," I replied, 
"I have no time to waste. I shall make my call." With 
this I entered the bishop's palace, and had an interesting 
visit with that prelate. When leaving the palace, I found the 
regidor and four town ofi&cials, awaiting my appearance. 
He at once demanded whether it was not my intention to 
measure the women. He said that he had been to see the 
jefe, and that the jefe said my wishes must be obeyed. I 
asked him where it was proposed to measure the women, 
and he replied that it should be wherever I pleased. "Very 
good," said I. "We will measure them in the court-yard 
of the jefe's palace; have subjects brought there at once, 
and send a man to my hotel for my instruments." 

To the palace we went, and thither shortly four police- 
men brought a woman from the market. With bad grace, 



i64 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

she submitted to be measured, after which the four police- 
men went again to the market, and soon after reappeared 
with a second subject. So the work went on, with four 
policemen to each woman, until our full number was finally 
secured and the work completed. 

Three years ago, on my return from Guatemala, I met 
in this city an English doctor named Castle, who has lived 
here for many years — a man of scientific tastes and interests, 
who has employed his leisure in studying the botany, zool- 
ogy, and indians of the district. He is well-informed, and 
one of the few persons acquainted with the Juaves. I 
counted on his help in approaching that curious and little- 
known tribe. The doctor's house is full of pets; eight 
different kinds of parrots, a red and yellow macaw, a bril- 
liant-billed, dark-plumaged toucan, an angora goat, a 
raccoon, dogs and cats, are a part of the happy family 
that prowls at large in his house. A little creature, an in- 
dian, no more than eight years old, has adopted the doctor 
for her father. She had come to him as a patient for a 
trouble by no means uncommon here — night-blindness; 
in caring for her, he gained the little creature's heart, and 
she will hardly hear of leaving him to return home. The 
doctor accompanied us on our first visit to San Bias, and 
told us many things, not only of the Juaves, but of the Za- 
potecs and other indians of the region. 

From the hotel, in the heart of Tehuantepec, to the town- 
house of San Bias, is a walk of only twenty minutes. Here 
for three days we did our work, returning to our hotel for 
meals and lodging. The work went easily, the men pre- 
senting little or no objection to our operations; measure- 
ments, busts, portraits — all were taken. On the whole, the 
Tehuantepecanos do not present a simple, pure Indian type. 
The women seemed to be purer than the men. The sccretario 
at San Bias has been to school. He is one of the few indians 



ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 165 

of the district who has taken an interest in the study of his 
native tongue. He has already pubHshed a grammar of 
the Zapotec, as spoken in his village. He has also printed 
a little tract for lovers, in which high-sounding phrases are 
translated from the Spanish into Zapotec. He has also 
prepared, and holds in manuscript, a dictionary of the 
dialect containing some 4,000 words. 

The visit to the Juaves we considered one of the most 
important and interesting of our journey. These people 
are conservative, and among the least known of the native 
populations of Mexico. There are but four towns, with 
a total population of probably less than three thousand 
persons. These towns are situated at a few leagues' dis- 
tance from Tehuantepec, near the Pacific, upon narrow 
tongues of land, washed by salt lagoons. The nearest, 
largest, and according to Dr. Casde, the most conserva- 
tive of the four towns, is San Mateo del Mar. We had 
hoped that Dr. Castle might accompany us on our journey. 
This, however, was impossible, but he suggested that he 
would go with us part of the way. To avoid the great heat, 
we travelled by night, as there was moonlight. Hiring a 
carretero at San Bias, we loaded our materials and instru- 
ments into the cart, and started it upon its way. At about 
four o'clock in the afternoon, we rode from Tehuantepec, 
taking a roundabout road in order to sec the hill which gives 
name to the town. It was Sunday, and many women and 
girls had been visiting the cemetery, carrying bowls filled with 
flowers to put upon the graves of friends. We saw num- 
bers of young fellows sitting by the roadside, and learned 
that they were the lovers of the young women, awaiting 
their return from the cemetery. 

The name Tehuantepec means the mountain of man- 
eaters. These man-eaters were not men, but tigers, or 
ocelots. The story runs that long ago this mountain was 



i66 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

infested with wild beasts who destroyed the people of the 
neighboring villages. Fearing extermination, the people 
of the town decided to consult the Juaves, who were famous 
for their naguales, or witches. The oldest and most skilled 
nagual of the tribe was employed. Having performed his 
incantations, he told them they might expect immediate 
deliverance; that he had conjured a deliverer from the sea. 
Soon there came forth from the water a gigantic turtle, who 
made his way slowly inland, until he reached the bottom of 
the hill, which was the home of the tigers. The dangerous 
animals were just descending from the mountain in a double 
line, but the moment they caught sight of the mammoth 
sea-monster, their bodies froze with terror and they were 
turned to stone. Terrified at the power of the creature he 
had conjured, the old nagual quickly made use of his 
most powerful incantation, with the result that the turtle 
also was transformed into stone. The proof of the truth 
of the story we saw in the lines of stone tigers on the moun- 
tain side and the stone turtle at the foot of the hill, as we 
rode by. 

The doctor suggested that it would be well to take a 
guide with us from San Bias as far as Huilotepec, as there 
were many side-roads before we reached that town, and 
that, from there, we would need no help. We followed 
his suggestion. The road was almost level. It passed 
through a district covered with a dense growth of brush 
and thorny trees, except where the land had been plowed 
for planting corn. In the early evening we saw many 
birds. Flocks of parrots rose from the trees as we passed 
by; at one point Manuel shot a little eagle, which fell 
wounded to the ground. Our guide concluded to carry it 
on alive. All went well for some time, but at last, with no 
warning, the bird made a vicious dash, and with its claws 
tore through the trousers of the guide, making a great gash 



ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 167 

in his leg. The man promptly decided it was better, on 
the whole, to carry it further dead than living. 

The doctor turned back at sunsest. We reached Huilo- 
tepec something before eight, and found it a large pueblo 
with houses built of bamboo or cane. Here we had a good 
supper, and dismissing our guide started out, by brilliant 
moonlight, for the last part of our journey. Shortly beyond 
the town, the road turned, for a moment, into the river, 
and after passing for a few rods in the river-bed, struck up 
again onto the bank. At this place we made a fatal blunder. 
When the road went down into the river, supposing that 
we were about to ford, we kept straight across the stream. 
Finding a road upon the other side we had no suspicion 
but what we were going well and travelled onward. For a 
long time we found trails of varying degree of badness. 
Sometimes the branches formed a complete tangle which, 
even in the daytime, would have required careful watching. 
As it was, the faces of the party were well scratched with 
thorns. Sometimes, we seemed to be on a good road; at 
others, we had hardly found a trail. At one place we passed 
a ranch — Corral de San Diego. A host of barking dogs 
announced our coming, and we cried out to the old man 
living there to tell us the road. His directions were not 
clear, but in attempting to follow them, we retraced our 
trail, and then struck into another road. Keeping to it 
until we really could not follow it further for the tangle, we 
retraced our steps until we came to a cart-road crossing 
that on which we were. We started first to the right upon 
this; then, concluding we were wrong, turned about and 
went the other way. We soon found ourselves off the road 
again, and travelling blindly through the brush. Coming 
to a round patch of clear sand, to which the trail on which 
we were seemed to have led us, we could find no way out. 
Convinced that we were hopelessly lost, we camped out upon 



i68 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the sand for the night. Fortunately we had a little com 
with us which we gave to the horses, after which we tied 
them to the trees. As we lay upon the sand in the bright 
moonlight, we could hear the dashing of the sea waves not 
far away. The heat was intolerable and the mosquitoes 
venomous. We secured no rest, and, at the first signs of 
day, were ready for our start. The two boys went out to 
hunt a rabbit, but returned with most discouraging reports. 
While they were absent, Don Anselmo and myself were 
left in camp. Suddenly he cried out that our horses were 
running away; such was really the case. The last one was 
just disappearing in the brush and Anselmo started after 
them, leaving me to keep the camp. When the other two 
returned, they, too, started in pursuit. After a hard chase, 
the animals were captured and brought back. By seven 
we had mounted and were on our way. We retraced our 
trail of the night before, going back to the cart-road. A 
little before eight we came upon a ranch, the Ranchito del 
Boca del Rio. Here we asked our way, and found that we 
were still as far from San Mateo, as when we left Huilo- 
tepec the night before. Eating a light breakfast, we secured 
a guide who took us, by the shortest way across the river, 
back to the main trail for San Mateo, where he left us. 
The road was long and hot and sandy. Our horses could 
hardly keep up a decent walk. It seemed that we would 
never reach the town. More than an hour before we 
arrived at the town, we encountered little ranches belong- 
ing to it. Everywhere we saw flocks of sheep, cows and 
horses. Curiously, the Juaves have always had herds, 
since our first records of them, but they eat no meat. The 
country was more tropical than any through which we had 
passed. Clumps of palmtrees were to be seen here and 
there. Pools of standing water, where horses and cattle 
stood cooling themselves, were frequent. The people whom 



ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 169 

we met wore little clothing. Men frequently had nothing 
but the breech-clout and hat. Women wore a skirt, but no 
upper garment. Children up to ten and twelve years of 
age ran naked. Reaching San Mateo at twelve o'clock, 
we found the village excited at our non-appearance. Our 
carrciero had arrived long before with our luggage. He had 
told the presidente of our intended coming, and men from 
the town had been sent through the by-roads to seek for us. 
The town lies on a level stretch of sand, and the houses are 
built of canes and thatched with palm. Most of the trees 
in the village are palms; some, cocoa palms. The plaza 
is a large open space. On one side of it is the church, of 
stone and brick; on another side is the town-building made 
of brick, covered with plaster, and consisting of three por- 
tions, — the presidencia, curato, and jail. A brick-paved 
corridor, roofed above, runs before the whole building. We 
were given the jail and presidencia with the corridor. 
Here hammocks and a bed of palm stalks were prepared 
for us, and orders issued that eggs and tortillas should be 
brought us. The Juaves raise no crops. They are fisher- 
men, and their food and living come from the sea. Their 
dried fish and shrimps, and the salt, which they make from 
the brine-soaked bottoms of dried lagoons, go far and wide 
through the country, and for these they get in trade the 
com, coffee, chocolate, and raw cotton which they need. 
We have already spoken of their cattle, which is a source of 
income, though, as stated before, the Juaves rarely eat 
meat food. 

The Juaves present a well-defined physical type. They 
are of medium stature or tall. Their noses are the largest 
and most prominent in indian Mexico, and are boldly aqui- 
line. The men are rarely idle; even as they walk, they 
carry with them their netting, or spindle with which they 
spin cord for making nets. It seems to be law, and is car- 



lyo IN INDIAN MEXICO 

tainly custom, that persons coming to the plaza are expected 
to be more fully dressed than when travelling on the road 
or when in their homes. Usually white cotton drawers 
and shirt are worn in the plaza; outside, practically nothing 
but the breech-clout. 

There is an interesting commerce carried on in Juave 
towns by Zapotec traders from Juchitan. As might be 
expected, this is entirely in the hands of women. Some 
women make two journeys weekly between the two towns. 
They come in ox-carts, with loads of corn, fodder, coffee, 
chocolate, cotton and the like. These they trade or sell. 
When they return to Juchitan, they carry with them a lot 
of salted and dried fish, shrimps, salt and eggs. Upon 
these expeditions the whole family accompanies the woman; 
the traveling is done almost entirely by night. These 
Zapotec women are shrewd at bargaining. They must 
be doing a paying business. It was interesting to see the 
primitive devices for weighing. The scales consisted of 
two tin pans of equal size and weight hung from a balance 
beam. The only weight was a stone weighing a pound. 
In case a Juave woman wished to buy a quarter-of-a-pound 
of cotton, the procedure was as follows : The weight was put 
into one pan of the scales and a pound of cotton weighed 
out into the other; the weight was then removed and the 
cotton divided, so as to balance in the two pans; one of 
the pans was then emptied, and the remaining cotton again 
divided, with the result that a quarter-of-a-pound of cotton 
had been weighed. 

One curious feature, which we had not seen elsewhere, 
but which Dr. Castle had warned us we should find, was the 
nightly guard set upon us. As we lay upon our beds at 
night, looking out upon the white sand in front of us, we 
could see, by the moonlight, at some little distance, a circle 
of eight or ten men who spent the night sleeping within 



ABOUT TEHUANTEPEC 171 

■call. Another striking feature was the music which we 
heard in the late evening and early morning. In the early 
morning, five o'clock or earlier, and at sunset, there was 
service in the church. Later on, at eight, there was again 
singing in the churchyard, lasting until quite a late hour. 
One evening, on investigating, we found eight or ten men 
kneeling on the sand before the church door, singing in the 
moonlight. They were practicing for the procession and 
special service of the second Friday of Lent. 

The water-life of the Juaves is at once picturesque and 
curiously tame. The men spend much of their time on 
or in the water. They make great dugout canoes from large 
tree trunks. There are usually no paddles, but poles are 
used to propel the craft sluggishly over the waters of the 
lagoon. Few of the men can swim. The fish are chiefly 
caught with nets, and both seines and throw nets are used. 
The lagoons are said to abound in alligators, and the men, 
when fishing, generally carry with them spears with long 
iron points which are said to be used for protection against 
attacks of these reptiles. Great respect is shown the alli- 
gator, and curious superstitions prevail regarding it. 

Between San Mateo and the nearest of the great lagoons, 
the country ceases to be level and is covered with sand dunes. 
On these dunes there are great numbers of hares of a species 
peculiar to the locality. They make excellent eating, and 
Manuel kept our larder supplied with fresh meat, which was 
welcome, and which we could not otherwise have had among 
these non-meat-eating folk. An old Zapotec woman, 
seventy years of age, with snowy hair and gentle face, was 
deputed by the town authorities to do our cooking. Her 
relatives live in Juchitan, and why she had chosen to live 
among these people I do not know. She took a motherly 
interest in all our party. Nothing was too good for us. She 
spent her whole time in hunting supplies and cooking and 



172 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

serving food. Not only did she insist on all our purchases 
being supplied at cheapest rates, but her own charge for 
help and service was ridiculously small. From early morn- 
ing until late at night the poor old soul was busy in our 
behalf. On our leaving, she took my hands between her 
own, and kissing them, begged that we would send her a 
picture as a remembrance. 

The road to Tehuantepec at night was one of no adven- 
ture. We were impressed with the great number of families, 
travelling in ox-carts over these roads in the cool night air. 
It was a custom and habit of which we had before no reali- 
zation. It lacked but ten minutes of one o'clock when 
finally we rode up to the hotel in Tehuantepec. From the 
hostler w^e learned that every room was full, — five persons 
in some cases sleeping in a single room. So we were com- 
pelled to lie down upon the porch outside until the mornings 



CHAPTER XIV 

ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD 
(1899) 

A FTER a day or two of rest, we started from Tehuan- 
-^^ tepee upon our return to Oaxaca. For the first 
time, we were to follow the usually travelled high-road. 
Our hearts failed us, as we thought of thus neglecting the 
lovely land of the Mixes, but it was on our program to see 
the Chontals. Starting at seven, we lost a little time in 
having a photograph of our party taken as we left the city, 
so that it was really 8:15 before we were on our way. Our 
plaster had been sent by carreta to Xalapa. We had a hot, 
hot, hot ride over a heavy, difficult sand road. At least 
half a dozen times we forded the Tehuantepec river, and 
everywhere at places which would have justified the name, 
Xalapa, "the sandy water.'' Finally, arriving at Xalapa 
at four o'clock, we found it a large town, of the usual hot, 
dusty Zapotec kind. The authorities bestirred themselves 
vigorously to locate us in comfortable quarters, with an old 
lady of regal apppearance and dignity. From the start, we 
feared that this royal appearance and dignity would be paid 
for, but the opportunity for comfort was not to be neglected. 
One of the houses of her royal domain was vacated for our 
use, and two good cots and a hammock were put at our dis- 
posal. The supper was abundant, and capital in quality, 
and there was plenty of food for the horses. Strolling 
down to the river after supper we found it broad but very 
shallow; it did not reach our knees at any point, when 
we waded across it; the bottom was, as we imagined it 

173 



174 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

would be from the name, moving sand. After a bath in 
the much too shallow stream for swimming, we returned 
refreshed to our comfortable beds. As anticipated, we found 
the bill, when presented in the morning, truly regal; after 
some demur, our queenly hostess reduced it slightly, but, 
even so, we were reminded of the summer-resorts of our 
own country. 

Tequixistlan, perhaps the largest of the Chontai towns, 
we found without an official head. While we were in Te- 
huantepec the jeje received notice of his father's death. 
This notice had been duly sent to all the villages and towns 
within the district, and, on a certain day, the presidente 
and other chief officers of the different pueblos gathered at 
Tehuantepec to express their sympathy by speeches and to 
present flowers to the official. It was for this errand that 
the presidente of Tequixistlan had gone to the cabecera. 
Had he been at home, perhaps we would have had no diffi- 
culty, but as it was we found the government disjointed 
and nerveless. Constant nagging and harrying were neces- 
sary in carrying out our wishes. The town itself was not 
bad. It stands upon a sort of terrace, at a little height 
above the neighboring river. The town-house is a long 
building, occupying the whole upper end of the large rec- 
tangular plaza; at the lower end is the fine church and 
curato. Along the sides were tiendas, school, etc., well 
built adobes and plastered over with tinted plaster. Be- 
hind the church beyond the river rises a handsome back- 
ground of mountains. The long corridor in front of the 
municipal-house was fine and broad, with a high roof and 
brick pavement. Oleanders bloomed before this corridor. 
The view from it was fine, and the air cool there even in the 
middle of the day. We accordingly took possession of it, 
working and sleeping there. So far as personal comfort 
was concerned, we were well cared for. We had good 



ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD 175 

meals, comfortable cots, plenty of food for the horses, but, 
as we have said, the work lagged, and it was only with the 
greatest difficulty that we could accomplish it. 

There is little distinctive about the Chontals, as we saw 
them. The women dress much like the Zapotec women 
in the neighboring towns. The men present nothing 
notable in dress. Outside the plaza, the houses were built 
of light materials, and resembled the ordinary cane- walled, 
thatched huts of the Zapotecs. The people appeared to be 
badly mixed, and this not only with white, but also with 
negro blood. Nevertheless, as we worked upon subject 
after subject, a fairly defined type seemed to grow upon us. 
We could see that the Chontals are tall, with rather well- 
shaped faces, though somewhat high cheek-bones, with 
light complexions, and with wavy or curly hair. When the 
work was finished, we had great difficulty in securing car- 
riers to bear our burdens to San Bartolo. Enormous 
prices were demanded, and at last, angry over the attempted 
extortion, we threatened to leave all our stuff behind us, 
and hold the town responsible, reporting them to the authori- 
ties when we should reach Oaxaca, demanding that dam- 
ages should be collected. These threats had the desired 
effect. The secretario, who had been the only member of 
the town government displaying energy in our behalf, 
promised by all that was sacred that our goods should be 
delivered promptly at San Bartolo; that if they were not 
already there on our arrival, we might safely arrange for 
further transportation from that town, convinced that the 
goods would come before we left. 

That we might not be too much delayed by this palaver 
regarding carriers, I had started the balance of the party 
ahead, and rode on alone after them. They had left at 
10:15, 2.nd we all had a hot, dry, dusty, thirsty mountain 
ride until five o'clock in the afternoon, when we reached the 



176 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ranch, Las Vacas. It consisted of a dozen houses. We 
rode to the last one in the place, which consisted of brush 
and leafy branches, and had an enclosed corral adjoining 
it, where we asked for lodging. The owner was a young 
Zapotec, who, with his wife, was strikingly neat and clean. 
A little girl of seven was the only other member of the 
family. The house had but a single room, but there was 
a coro, or cane platform, and loft. Having fed our horses 
and eaten our own supper, I mounted to the loft, despite 
the advice of all the members of the party, who predicted 
smoke, heat, mosquitoes, fleas and other trials. They 
stayed below. There is no question that they fared worse 
from all the sources mentioned than myself. The woman 
worked until midnight, making tortillas and cooking chicken 
for us to carry as luncheon on the road. We had started by 
four in the morning, and pushed along over a mountain 
road. The first portion of the road was well-watered, but 
afterward it became hot, dry, and stony. Having gained 
the pass looking do^m upon the valley, we could see, at its 
further side, lying on a terrace, the pueblo of San Bar- 
tolo, stretching out in a long line near the front of a mighty 
mountain, upon which plainly our way would pass. It 
was almost noon when we reached the municipal-house, 
and found that our carriers had already arrived, and left 
the luggage. Here things were really quite as bad as at 
Tequixistlan, but here fortunately we had no work to do. 
The town was Zapotec. One might suppose, from its being 
upon the main high-road, that they would be accustomed 
to see strangers. We have hardly found a population at once 
so stupid and timid. It was with great difficulty that we 
found food to eat. Here we had to pay for beds (made of 
sticks tied together), belonging to the municipality, a thing 
which we had never done at any other town in Mexico. 
The people wear curious and characteristic garments. 



ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD 177 

All the stuff used for clothing is woven in the town, and not 
only the women's camisas, but the men's camisas and trous- 
ers, are decorated with elaborate designs — birds, animals, 
and geometrical figures — worked in various colors. Even 
in purchasing examples of these clothes, we were compelled 
to make a vigorous display of our civil and religious orders. 
After some bickering, we arranged for carriers to San Carlos, 
which is the cabecera of the district. Starting by moonlight, 
at two o'clock in the morning, we struck out over the enor- 
mous mountain mass to which we have already referred. 
Roads in the Zapotec country do not go directly up the hill- 
side, as in the land of the Mixes, but zigzag by gentle 
diagonals up the slopes. The road was largely composed 
of jagged rock; two hours and fifteen minutes were neces- 
sary for the ascent; the descent was bad enough, but a 
distinct improvement. At one place, however, we wandered 
from the main- travelled road, and found ourselves in an 
abandoned portion of the road, full of great holes which 
were filled with drifted fallen leaves, so that their presence 
was not betrayed until our horses fell into them. The 
latter part of this descent was slippery, being over hard 
stone, which was worn almost to a glassy smoothness by 
the passage of many hoofs. A little before reaching Man- 
teca, as we looked down from the height, we saw an immense 
train of pack-mules coming. In the good old days, before 
there were railroads, such trains as this were frequent. 
From Manteca the road penetrated into contracting valleys, 
until finally it might, with propriety, be called a canon road. 
At half past eight we reached San Carlos, a mean town 
with no meson or other regular stopping-place. We left 
the horses under the shady trees with the old farrier. While 
we rested and waited for breakfast, I called upon the jeje 
politico, who had received several communications from 
me, and had become interested in my work. Our luggage 



lyS IN INDIAN MEXICO 

was all at his office, and he promptly made arrangements for 
its further transportation. At breakfast, we received the 
cheerful news that ]Mr. Lang's horse had the lockjaw and 
showed signs of dying. On inspection, this proved to be 
quite true; the poor animal was in great pain, and could 
eat nothing, though making every effort to do so. Our 
first thought was a shot in the head to put it out of misery-, 
but the old farrier wished to try a remedio. He did his 
best, and it looked as if the animal might recover; it was 
plain, however, that he could not be used again that after- 
noon. Accordingly, an extra horse was rented for Mr. 
Lang's use. The remainder of the party was started on 
the road at 1 150, while I waited to give the remedio a chance 
to operate and the beast an opportunity to rest. At three 
I started, leading the sick horse. We had a fine ride in the 
cool of the evening, over a mountain road past the little 
ranch El Quemado, beyond which we found an immense 
ascent. When we reached the summit, it was fast darken- 
ing, and I pressed on as rapidly as the led horse would per- 
mit. Finally, I reached Escondido at seven. Several 
large parties of packers, with their trains of mules, had 
already settled for the night; campfires were burning. 
Here and there drinking had been going on, and there was 
noise of loud laughter, singing and dancing. Our part}^ 
was already eating supper when I arrived, and my own 
meal had been ordered. Shelter was supplied us adjoin- 
ing the house, where we spread our blankets and spent a 
comfortable night. We were late in starting, and were not 
upon the road until seven in the morning. We found tlie 
high-road most uninteresting. For long distances we 
descended, passing a ranch and emerging finally into a deep, 
hot gorge. By the time we reached Pichones we were 
tired, hot and thirsty. There, however, we could get no 
water, for man or beast, for love or money; suffering with 




Our Party Leaving Tehuantepec 



• A^xY'- V'''^■'' 




Zapotec Women and Girls; Tlacolula 



ON THE MAIN HIGH-ROAD 179 

thirst, the road seemed long to the river near Totolapa, 
where we refreshed ourselves with water, but a heavier road 
than ever had to be traversed. Much of the way we fol- 
lowed the stream-bed, fording repeatedly; the remainder 
was through deep sand and over rolling pebbles. Passing 
Juanico, on a high bank overlooking the river, at noon- 
day, we were delighted to strike upon a rock road, high on 
the river bank. Keeping to this trail, passing from planta- 
tions of bananas lying at the river level below us and catch- 
ing many pretty views of valley and of mountain, we at 
last reached Totolapa, completely worn out with the jour- 
ney and the heat. Here we rested until the heat of the day 
should be past. 

We had expected at this town to secure a muleteer, as 
the one we hired from San Carlos had agreed to come only 
to this town. Here, too, we had expected to rent a new 
horse for Mr. Lang. Our muleteer, however, was much 
taken with the party, and declared that he should hire him- 
self to continue with us to Tlacolula. We quickly arranged 
with him, and at four o'clock prepared to leave. The sick 
horse was then at its worst; it had lain down, and for a time 
we believed it was really dead; it was out of the question 
for it to go further; so, calling one of the villagers, I told 
him that he might have the horse, and if there was any possi- 
bility of curing, it, he should do what might be necesssary. 

From four to seven it was a tiresome climb, largely 
through stream-beds to Carvajal. It is a large rancho, but 
we stopped at the first house we came to, a miserable place, 
where, however, we got coffee, bread, beans and eggs, and 
some mats for beds, which we laid out upon the ground, 
under the open sky. Taking early coffee and tortillas, we 
were again mounted at four and on our way. It was the 
last ascent. The moon was shining brightly, and we could 
see that the road followed the edge of a fine gorge. When 



i8o IN INDIAN MEXICO 

we once reached the summit, there was no further descent 
to make. We were on the high, flat, table-land of Oaxaca, 
and from here to the capital city of the state, the road is 
level, and passes through a rich agricultural district. Pass- 
ing San Dionisio at seven, we pressed on as rapidly as possi- 
ble to Tlacolula, where we arrived before noon, ready for 
the good meals and comfortable quarters which we well 
knew awaited us there. 

Tlacolula is a large town, in the midst of a dusty valley. 
Its houses are large, rectangular constructions, well built 
of poles, with fine thatched roofs. They stand in yards, 
which are enclosed by fences of organ-pipe cactus. The 
people dress well, and at almost every house they own an 
ox-cart and a yoke of animals. While photographing 
there that afternoon, we suggested that we w^anted a group 
of girls and women in native dress. "Very well; I will 
take you to the house, where you can get one." Arrived 
there, the policeman at once led out five women and four 
children, whom he placed in line. After the picture was 
taken, we expressed our satisfaction and surprise that so 
good a group had been so readily secured at a single house. 
"Oh, sir," he replied, "we struck a lucky time; there is a 
funeral going on there." 



CHAPTER XV 

CUICATLAN 
(1899) 

BETWEEN Tehuacan and Oaxaca the railroad passes 
through a low, deep valley which is ever hot. Few 
people on the train pass through this valley without feeling 
its depressing influence. It would seem that travelers 
would hardly stop at stations within its limits, unless im- 
pelled by actual necessity. The most important of the towns 
in this valley is Cuicatlan. Little of it is to be seen from 
the railroad, but in reality it is a notably picturesque village. 
It is the cabecera of a district in which dwell three most 
interesting tribes — the Cuicatecs, Chinantecs, and Maza- 
tecs. We had time to visit only the nearest of the Cuicatec 
towns. Cuicatlan itself is situated near one side of a valley, 
through which runs a considerable stream. The distant 
bank rises in two magnificent mountain masses. The 
nearer bank, at the very base of which the town nestles on a 
series of little hills, rises into almost sheer precipices of 
purple conglomerate. These cliffs are hundreds of feet 
high, and are, apparently, due to a gigantic landslide. The 
mass which fell must have measured fully two miles in 
length, and still lies, broken and heaped up, at the base of 
the cliffs. The face of the cliffs, and the fallen masses of 
rock at its base, are cut into narrow gullies and gaps by 
water. The town consists of several clusters of houses, 
scaled along the slopes of little hillocks and settled into the 
spaces between them. Gigantic cactuses surround the 
town, and cocoa palms rise to great heights within it. 



i8a IN INDIAN MEXICO 

It is customary for travelers to emphasize the slowness 
of the Mexicans. Either we have been exceptionally fortu- 
nate, or the reputation is largely undeserved. We have been 
rarely delayed by sluggish action. Here, however, we found 
a jefe who would surely satisfy the most complaining. He 
was mild in manner, gentle in speech, fond of brilliant 
plans and schemes, all of which, however, were to be put 
in operation to-morrow and not to-day. It was with diffi- 
culty that we impressed upon him our necessity. We told 
him that we wanted animals to carry us to Papalo. In 
reply, he told us that Papalo was but a poor town, and he 
outlined a journey the traveling alone in which would 
occupy some eight or ten days. When we assured him 
that we had no time for such an enterprise, he said that it 
would be much better for the towns to come to us in Cuicat- 
lan. He proposed sending to-morrow to those to-wms, and 
assured us that, at the end of a week's time, we would have 
all the subjects we needed. So, when we suggested that 
this, too, w^as loss of time, he had other brilliant plans, all 
quite as useless. With the utmost difficulty we finally 
succeeded in getting him to arrange for animals to go to 
Papalo. From the very start, the road w^as up-hill. Pass- 
ing first through a section covered with a magnificent 
growth of tree cactuses of two species, in fine fruit and 
flower, we found the vegetation varied as we mounted, and 
at last came up among the pines. There was a great var- 
iety of landscape and geological formation. Purple-red 
conglomerate, with horizontal layers weathered into mas- 
sive forms; granitic schistose rocks, over which we later 
passed, gave their peculiar scenic outlines. We climbed 
steadily for fully four hours, and then looked do^vm, along 
a gently sloping hill trail, to our to\Mi, perched upon a 
slightly lower hill. Just at the edge of the to-^Mi, we passed 
a gang of men and boys at work, making a level platform 



CUICATLAN 183 



for the new plaza and town-house. We congratulated our- 
selves that we should have no difficulty, here, in finding 
subjects. The town claimed three thousand population. 
Many of them were certainly away upon their fields and 
ranches, scattered through the mountains, and working 
^ncas for wealthy landowners. The town itself is pictu- 
resque in the extreme. Notable among its features is the 
ruined church, the roof of which has fallen in; the walls 
still stand, bare and broken, but the decorations, some 
richly carved and gilded, are still unmoved within the 
demolished edifice. The damage was recent, and repre- 
sented a double catastrophe — lightning and earthquake. 
We could not begin work until the mozo came with the 
instruments. Finally, at four o'clock in the afternoon, we 
began measuring with no great difficulty. Before night, 
fifteen subjects had passed through our hands and one bust 
had been made. Even when we arrived, at midday, it was 
too cold for us to stay with comfort in the town-house, 
though it was hot enough outside in the sunshine. When 
night came, it was bitter cold, and we went to bed early 
in hope of keeping warm, a hope without foundation. 
Early the next morning, we were ready for our work. 
Every one had disappeared, except those whom we had 
measured the night before. We requested the town authori- 
ties to bring in subjects. A few stragglers were dragged 
in and measured, and some pictures taken. Notwithstand- 
ing the poor way in which they had done their work, the 
policemen struck, declaring that they would not bring 
others until they had been paid. It was plain the town 
needed a lesson. We promptly paid the demand made 
upon us, and, then, calling the presidente and the secretario, 
we told them that we must have a receipt for the payment 
to show the jeje. We said that such a thing was unheard 
of; that, for town officials to demand pay, before they 



i84 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

would agree to obey the order of their chief, was mutiny. 
At first they flatly refused to give the receipt, but after a 
little consultation were anxious to return the money, and 
threats were freely made to throw the whole police-force 
into jail. We said that this was not our desire; we were 
surprised at the demand, but, having met it, we insisted 
upon having our receipt. A meeting of tlie town authori- 
ties being held to consider the matter, our request was again 
refused, but attention was called to the fact that some sub- 
jects were waiting outside to be measured and photographed. 
I thereupon refused to measure or photograph any person 
until my demand had been met. I showed them, clearly, 
the position in which they had placed themselves; I stated 
that when they had done a WTong, and a stranger demanded 
an ofiicial statement of the case, their duty was simple and 
clear. By this time my own. party was in arms; photog- 
rapher, plaster-worker, Manuel, all were scared. They 
insisted that our throats would be cut that night. They 
called attention to the ugly manner and black looks of the 
town authorities. They declared that we had better flee, 
while yet there was opportunity; they insisted that they 
had not left comfortable homes to be murdered in cold 
blood; they begged that I would, at least, retreat from the 
position taken, and consent to measure the subjects who 
were waiting. I assured them that it w-as far more impor- 
tant to teach the town a lesson regarding their duty to their 
higher officials, than to measure a few^ indians. Finally, 
after hours of uncertainty, black looks, mutterings, and 
refusals, the town capitulated, and the receipt w^as in my 
possession. Having gained my point, I called the attention 
of the town officials to the bearings of the case. I empha- 
sized their duty to the jeje. They knew, quite w^ell, that 
it was out of place to demand money for obeying his order; 
I stated that I appreciated w^hatever w^ork the policemen 




^'.■mkiMiyom-'^' 



CUICATLAN 185 



might have done, and that, in due season, I might have 
recognized it by a gift, but that demands were quite another 
thing. I showed them how important it was, that, when 
trouble rose between them and a stranger, they should 
furnish any statement of the case he might, in justice, ask. 
Having stated the matter fully, I consented to receive back 
the money, and tore up the receipt much to their relief. 

Still the work went slowly. No one was left in town 
but the officials and some women. The latter locked and 
barred their doors, at the approach of any of the town 
authorities, and neither threats to burn their houses above 
their heads nor bribes would bring them forth. It was 
only after three days of hard work that eighty men and 
twenty-five women were secured. By that time, it was plain 
that the other men were safely out of reach, and we concluded 
that naught remained but to return to Cuicatlan, to com- 
plete our work with representatives from other towns. 
This we did, although we found our jefe still gentle, mild, 
and slow. 

Once in the hot valley, we concluded that we might as 
well see more of it. Leaving Cuicatlan at noon, a few min- 
utes' ride brought us to the station at Tecomavaca, perhaps 
the hottest of the hot valley tovms. Within it are ruins 
which have been strangely neglected by all tourists and 
investigators. Probably, the great heat has killed what- 
ever little enthusiasm may have been kindled in those who 
have seen aught of these ruins. When we reached the 
station, in the hottest portion of the day, the valley seemed 
to glow; all looked hot and desolate. There were no 
mozos to help in carrying baggage, though the town was- 
fully half a mile from the station, behind bare, hot, sandy 
hills. It is one of the poorest and meanest of the Mexican 
tovms. A dreary plaza is surrounded by miserable adobe, 
or adobe-plastered, buildings. The only edifices that looked 



i86 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

clean and neat were the school, jail, and towTi-house. We 
found shelter at a sort of a meson, where we could get no 
supper until nine, or possibly till ten. Rather than go inside 
the rooms, we took possession of the corridor, and there, 
with two cots, a table, and the floor, lay down, to rest. But 
not to sleep! The town, smaU as it was, had twenty cases 
of la grippe. The woman of the house where we were 
stopping was one of these. Her husband, who came back 
from the mountains long after dark, appeared to have an 
affection and solicitude regarding her, w^hich, under other 
circumstances, might have been quite touching, but w^hich, 
then, was thoroughly exasperating. While he cooked his 
o"v\Ti supper, made chocolate for her, and heated hot water 
for her use, he kept passing back and forth, between the 
kitchen and the sick chamber, until later than two o'clock 
in the morning. The noise which he made, and these 
repeated movements, kept us all awake the whole night 
long. The night was hot and close, and new and unknown 
insects troubled us extremely. We were glad to be dressed 
and mounted, the following morning. Riding across the 
river, we made the ascent to tlie sunmiit, on which were 
the ruins of Tecomavaca Viejo. The ascent was so ab- 
rupt that our horses were repeatedly compelled to stop for 
breath. The trail passed through cactuses, and spiny 
shrubs and trees, which tore our clothes more than all we 
had endured during weeks of travel. The ruins are un- 
questionably old. The hilly slope presents a succession of 
terraced platforms, one behind the other, at different heights. 
The rock walls bet^'een these are banked up and faced with 
rock, coated with plaster and mud; there are many p>Ta- 
mids and mounds; there are also curious subterranean, 
stone-faced, graves. Many curious disks of stone were 
found, a foot or eighteen inches in diameter, and three or 
four inches thick; these were all reddish grit, and had 




Cactus Near Cuicatlan 




View in a Tlaxcalan Barranca 



CUICATLAN 187 



plainly been piled one upon another to form pillars. Along 
the forward edge of some of the terraced platforms, we 
found the lower discs of some columns still in place. While 
the amount of work, represented in these cut terraces, 
banked rocks, and subterranean constructions, impressed 
us greatly, it was difficult to get a clear idea of the relation- 
ship of the parts. 

When, however, we found ourselves at the station, wait- 
ing for the train, we looked back across the river to our 
three ruin-crowned hills. Then, for the first time, having 
visited the spot, we could clearly make out the relations. 
Three natural mountains or hills, the greater, central one 
flanked on both sides by lesser, had been utilized by the 
old builders; the natural rock masses had been cut and 
walled, until they practically formed masses of construction, 
rising terrace behind terrace, to the very summit. When 
the terraces were entire, with their temple-crowned pyra- 
mids, and with embankments and walls in full repair, these 
vast constructions must have been indeed impressive. 



CHAPTER XVi 

IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 

(1900) 

A STREET-CAR line, running for most of the dis- 
-^^- tance do^^^l hill, connects Santa Ana with Tlax- 
cala, the towns being separated by seven miles. When 
making this little journey to Tlaxcala in January, 1897, 
we noticed in the car with us, a stout, purely indian man, 
who seemed anxious to engage us in conversation. Know- 
ing a few words of English, he was particularly anxious to 
practice them. He called our attention to the various vil- 
lages, streams, and mountains in the country through which 
we were passing, and took delight in analyzing the native 
names and explaining their meanings. When we were 
returning in the afternoon, we met a gentleman who had 
been in the same car with us in the morning, and we in- 
quired regarding our indian acquaintance. He told us 
that he was a full-blooded indian, whose native tongue was 
Aztec, and who lived in Santa Ana. Being the child of 
poor parents, the state had assisted in his education; he 
was now studying law in the city of Puebla. He was also 
a musician, and on this occasion had been upon his way to 
a public appointment, where he was to sing. 

Later, in Puebla, we called upon this gentleman, whose 
name we found was Quechol, meaning a bird with a crooked 
neck, perhaps a flamingo. He was interested in our study, 
and said we ought some time to visit the indian towns of 
his people upon the slopes of Malintzi. In January, 1900, 
having been delayed in our plans, we decided to spend a 

i<S8 



IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 189 

few days in Tlaxcala, and secured his company. Our 
preparations were made at Santa Ana; at the home of his 
parents we were hospitably welcomed, and chocolate and 
bread were furnished, before we started on our journey. 
While this refreshment was preparing, we visited the old 
church, in front of which stood an aged cypress tree, hung 
with gray moss and blazing with red flowers. We also 
entered some of the houses, where, on domestic looms, the 
serapes for which the town is famous are manufactured. 
We visited also a private school for girls, established by a 
Seiior Barela, who is noted as the first to introduce the in- 
dustry of weaving wool into this community. While the 
memory of this gentleman is held in high esteem by this 
people, that of his wife is by no means savory. It seems that 
she was an avaricious, vain and selfish woman, with no 
sympathy for his schemes for the betterment of the people. 
Her feeling was well known, and she died heartily hated 
by all. When the time came for her burial, the grave was 
prepared, and her body placed within it. But the earth 
twice refused to receive the corpse. It was then carried to 
to the Sawapa, near by, and thrown into its waters. The 
stream overflowed its banks, and tossed the body upon the 
ground; again the effort was made to thus dispose of it, 
but again it was thrown upon the shore. It was then sug- 
gested that it be carried to "the Cuezcomate," an extinct 
geyser-crater, famous through all the country, and popu- 
larly believed to be the mouth of hell; when the body was 
thrown into this opening, it is said the devils were seen to 
swarm upward to receive it. 

It was almost noon as our little party started on foot in 
the direction of Malintzi. Our indian friend, his brother, a 
white friend, our photographer, our Mexican boy and ourself , 
made up the party, and we were followed by three mozos on 
foot carrying supplies of food. We struck out over a sandy 



I90 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

plain, where the foot sunk deep into dry sand, until we finally 
reached a well-built wall of stone, considered in the district 
a notable piece of engineering. It was constructed to turn 
the course of a little stream which, in times of flood, has fre- 
quently done damage to the town. From here, our trail 
led us on through the sandy pine-scrub, broken now and 
then by narrow gullies, called barrancas, with almost verti- 
cal sides. In every case, we were obliged to descend into 
these gullies and climb out upon the other side. After one 
and a half hours of walking we reached the village of San 
Pedro, where we stopped for dinner. The two Americans 
accompanying us lay down upon the ground, completely 
tired out, and were fast asleep within five minutes. Man- 
uel assisted the local cook in preparing dinner, while we 
talked with visitors until the meal was ready. The houses 
of San Pedro are well constructed of stone, set in adobe, and 
have well-thatched roofs. The granaries, or cuezcomates, 
are of unusual size and well built. They range from six 
or eight feet in height to twelve or more, and are shaped 
like great urns, open at the top, which is protected by a 
thatch, generally two-pitched. The temascals were also 
unusually well built of stone, and frequently were neatly 
covered with white plaster. Soon after leaving San Pedro, 
in the afternoon, we came upon two Indian boys digging 
in the ground. Inquiring what they were doing, we learned 
that they were hunting honey-ants, and in a moment our 
whole party was engaged in the same operation. These 
ants were found some inches below the surface, either 
singly, or in roundish holes containing half a dozen or more ; 
the abdomen was swelled until it was as round as a pea and 
as large as a fair-sized currant, and was filled with honey. 
To get the sweet liquid, one takes the insect by the head or 
forward body and pressing the honey bag sucks out the con- 
tents. It is sweet and rich, with a little twang, as if fer- 



IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 191 

mented, and people in the district call it honey-wine. Three 
quarters of an hour brought us to San Francisco, though 
we had to go down and up two large barrancas before we 
reached the town. It was almost sunset when we arrived. 
Sitting down before the town-house, we sent for the agente. 
Soon after our arrival the church- bell rang furiously, and the 
din and clangor was kept up a long time. While waiting 
for the official, supper was prepared, though we had had 
some difficulty in arranging for it, and were in doubt as to 
where we were to spend the night. Before supper was 
ready, a motley crowd poured into the room in which we 
sat. One large fellow carried a great sword strapped at his 
side, another bore a short sword, another a knife, another 
a large and ancient gun. Probably there were other 
weapons not in sight. This group of Indians was the 
agente and his guardia. We were objects of suspicion, 
and much argument, and an abundant supply of huitzatl — 
strong drink — were necessary, before we secured permis- 
sion to spend the night at the house where we were to have 
supper. No sooner had this company withdrawn and 
supper been eaten, than we prepared for bed. One wooden 
bed, with a mat of rushes, served for Senor Quechol and 
myself. A second mat, laid on the floor, formed the bed 
for our four companions. In the morning, we took a walk 
to Akxotla, where we wished to see an ancient painting. 
Here we encountered greater suspicion than before, and, 
after wasting the greater part of the day, accomplished 
nothing. It is true an Indian made a camalpa for us. 
This is a stringed musical instrument; though the name is 
Aztec, it is unlikely that it was known before the coming of 
the Spaniards. Quechol says the word means mouth-harp, 
coming from the Aztec cam, mouth, and the Spanish harpa, 
harp. We returned to San Francisco for our dinner, and 
at four o'clock again started on our journey. 



192 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

It was after five before we reached San Bartolome. 
As we drew near the village, we saw a magnificent double 
rainbow, brilliantly displayed upon the eastern sky against 
a cloud of almost inky blackness. Looking westward, as 
we entered the village, we saw the sun setting in a sea of 
gold, between Popocatapetl and Ixtaccihuatl. Watching 
this magnificent sunset, we sat down before the old church, 
and almost instantly a crowd gathered to see what the 
strangers might want. Don Romualdo, in wandering 
through the village, found a temascal in use, and hurrying 
to us, led us to see the method of its use. It is a dome- 
shaped structure, with an entrance so low that one must 
crawl upon his hands and knees in entering; it is a sweat- 
bath, used for cleanliness and health. A quick fire, built 
inside, heats it thoroughly, after which water is thrown upon 
the hot stones to produce steam. Four persons, of both 
sexes, were in the one in question, taking a sweat-bath. 
When we returned to our companions, sitting before the 
church, an Indian of the village, accosting Don Romualdo, 
claimed to know him; he also claimed my acquaintance, 
and reminded me that he had been one of the subjects I 
had measured two years before in Tlaxcala. A score or 
more of natives had gathered, in the moonlight, around our 
party. Having heard some indians singing, we tried to 
get these to sing some native songs. Only after Louis and 
Frank had sung some English songs, which were well 
received, were we able to hear Aztec songs in exchange. 
After a long delay, we were taken to the school-house for 
supper and the night, and spent the balance of the evening 
in taking down a native song. The Tlaxcalteca, and wit- 
nessing a dance which accompanied it. A bed was made 
up for the party by putting various benches and tables 
together. 

Most of the following day was spent in visiting in the 




Tlaxcalax House uitii Tkmascal 




The Mapaho in Use; San Juan Zautla 



IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 193 

village, purchasing idols and in making notes on life and 
customs; at four o'clock in the afternoon, we set out for 
Ixcotla. Near sunset we reached the house of QuechoPs 
uncle, old Isidro. Almost eighty years of age, he was 
straight and lithe as a man of thirty. His house and all 
the lesser buildings of his place were excellent and in fine 
condition. A flight of steps led to the flat roof, from which 
we watched the sunset. In the yard, were half a dozen 
hives for bees, made from the stocks of the maguey. The 
old man was rich, and o^vned other houses, but he lives 
alone, his wife being dead and his daughters married. He 
is a master of the Aztec, and uses it in its most poetical 
and figurative style. He does not speak like common men, 
but his conversation abounds in metaphor and flowers of 
speech. When once one spoke to him of his lonely and 
solitary life, he said, "Alone and solitary! No, we are 
three! There are here myself, my good angel, and my 
bad angel. I am never alone." Isidro knows all the 
boundaries of the fields, and can trace all the titles, and is 
frequently appealed to in land disputes, and even in law 
cases, is summoned to give testimony. He received us 
heartily, offered cigarettes and ordered supper. To re- 
fresh us, he broke fresh leaves from the orange-tree and 
steeped them in hot water, sweetening with sugar. After 
supper, good beds were made upon the floor, with plenty of 
mats and blankets. 

We had hardly risen in the morning, when the village 
was thrown into great excitement by the appearance of a 
band of soldiers. They had come to arrest a young man 
supposed to be a leader in the local opposition to Governor 
Cahuantzi. This opposition was just at fever heat; the 
election was approaching, and a fierce effort was being 
made to oust the governor. Forty-four towns were in open 
rebellion, among them, all of those which we had visited. 



194 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

There had been new laws passed regarding land and taxes; 
these had been resisted. The governor had threatened 
to send engineers to make new surveys, and to bring land- 
titles into question. The suspicion and distrust which we 
had met were doubtless, in large part, due to these meas- 
ures, and the fear that we were government spies. So great 
was the discontent, and so openly expressed, that it was 
said that on the Saturday preceding, in the Plaza of Tlax- 
cala itself, there was a riot, with cries of derision and con- 
tempt, and firing of guns upon the palace. We were told 
that the nearest haciendero, who was friendly to the gov- 
ernor, was marked for assassination and would be killed 
within the next few days. 

Leaving at ten next morning, we skirted Santa Ana, 
and, having passed through San Pablo, came out upon 
the banks of the Sawapa. This pretty stream has reputed 
remedial power, and in May hundreds of people bathe in 
its waters, to protect themselves against smallpox. As 
we crossed the great stone bridge, we met a drunken Indian 
who attached himself to our party. Between him and the 
Mexican members of our party, there arose hostility and 
an exchange of angry words. To us, personally, he was 
maudlinly affectionate and respectful. Finally, shaking 
him off, after climbing a considerable height, we stopped 
at Belen for a noonday rest and lunch. Dinner having 
been ordered, we seated ourselves in the shade, when our 
drunken friend again appeared upon the scene, and in great 
excitement, begged me to move, as it was certain death 
for a heated and perspiring person to sit in the shadow of 
a Peru tree. So persistent was he, that Quehcol and Man- 
uel lost all patience, and ordered the local officials to arrest 
him. 

About the middle of the afternoon we were again upon 
the road; having passed the bare, fortress-like church of 



IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 195 

San Mateo, and descended a long hill, toward evening 
we crossed a fine bridge over a gorge of black basaltic rock, 
and shortly reached Santa Maria Atlihuitzia, where we 
planned to spend the night. Here is a fine old church, 
with a fafadc absolutely covered with elaborate carving; 
a square tower rises at one comer. The great altar is a 
magnificent piece of carving and gold work; the windows 
are set with thin slabs of onyx. Within, near the church- 
door, are two paintings representing the scene of mayrtr- 
dom for which the town is famous. These pictures are 
ancient, and represent some interesting details of Indian 
life at the time of the Conquest. The head-dress and 
mantle of feathers worn by the old chieftain, the dress and 
hair-dressing of his wife, war weapons and buildings are 
all shown. Here, in 1527, the boy Cristoval, child of the 
great chief Acxotecatl and his wife Apalxitzin, was killed 
by his father because he would not renounce Christianity. 
The little lad was only thirteen years of age, and had been 
trained by Spanish priests. He was the proto-martyr of 
the new world, and the story of his martyrdom and the early 
church in Tlaxcala, have been charmingly narrated by 
Mendieta. Close by the church stand the ruined walls 
of the monastery, impressive for their massive construction 
and the enormous space which was enclosed. It was dark 
before we finished the examination of these quaint and 
interesting old buildings, and we were glad enough to go 
to the house of the secretario, where we found good beds 
and elaborate furniture. In the room where we were to 
sleep there was a nacimiento, made in connection with the 
Christmas season. The table was covered with little land- 
scapes, scattered over which were figures of many kinds, 
including a group of San Jose, Maria, and the infant Christ. 
Santa Maria is purely mestizo. In the morning, finding 
breakfast somewhat slow, we started for a walk, and pass- 



196 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ing by the old church, came shortly to the spot where the 
boy martyr was killed. From here we descended, over a 
long slope of gray tufa, to a pretty stream flowing through 
black basalt. The rock is hard and shiny with cells or 
air-bubbles scattered through its mass. Close by the 
water's edge we were shown some curious impressions, on 
the nearly level surface of the rock, which were said to be 
the imprints of the knees of the Holy Virgin as she knelt 
here to wash clothes in the brook; there are also grooves 
made by the Virgin's fingers as she scrubbed the clothing 
on the rock; by the side of these impressions are two hol- 
lows, marking the spot where the Holy Child sat with its 
mother as she worked. On the rock behind is the impres- 
sion of a mule's foot. Formerly there were two of these 
impressions, but in 1888 a tornado broke away the mass of 
rock, on which was the other impression. Just below this 
place the stream leaps in a pretty cascade which, with its 
white foam, contrasts strikingly with the black rock. The 
trail followed by Cortez on his way from Vera Cruz to Tlax- 
cala was pointed out to us and we were told that Atlihuit- 
zia in those days was an important city, numbering five 
thousand solteros (unmarried men). On the way back to 
the village, we visited the arhol huerfano — orphan tree — a 
cypress, so called because it is the only tree of its kind in this 
district. Quechol says that a long line of such trees, at a 
distance of several leagues apart, was planted by the Span- 
iards, and he and the villagers mentioned a number of them 
in different places. Passing once more by the spot of 
martyrdom, a white capulin was pointed out, as being the 
very tree represented in the picture of the killing. 

It was now almost ten o'clock and we found breakfast 
waiting. At Quechol's request, it was a purely Mexican 
meal, consisting of Aztec dishes. We had tamales, atole, 
and, for the first time, champurado. The latter is atolc 



IN TLAXCALAN TOWNS 197 

— com gruel — mixed with chocolate, and is really an 
excellent dish. After breakfast, we left our friends of Atli- 
huitzia and hastened back over the same road past San 
Mateo, Belen, San Pablo, and Santa Ana. The way was 
long and the sun was hot, but the road was beguiled with 
many stories regarding the places that we passed, for the 
whole state of Tlaxcala abounds in legend. 



CHAPTER XVII 

IN THE CHINANTLA 
(1900) 

ONCE more we found ourselves in picturesque Cui- 
catlan. Walking up the familiar street, we again 
found lodging with Dona Serafina. Having settled, and 
taken a look out over the beautiful landscape visible through 
our windows, we interviewed the jefe politico, whom we 
we found the same nerveless, well-meaning individual as 
ever. After grumbling, and insisting that it was impossible 
to fit us out on such short notice, he finally promised that 
all should be ready the next morning. It was a sorry outfit 
that we found ; one medium-sized mule for myself, and four 
small burros for the other members of the party. A boy 
from the jail was sent with us as mozo to carry our instru- 
ments. It was still early when we started through the hot, 
sandy, flat land, covered with gigantic cactus trees, which 
swarmed with little birds of many beautiful kinds. We soon 
began to climb the great, red rock cliffs, up, and up, and 
up, endlessly. We had forgotten how long the road was; 
but it was longer than ever on account of the beasts we 
rode. Long before we reached Papalo, Manuel and Louis 
were on foot, rather than longer submit to the torture of 
riding their little burros. As we neared the town, we were 
surprised to find a cloud effect almost as fine as that near 
Juquila in the Mixe country. Had it had clearly defined 
banks on both sides, its resemblance to a cataract would 
have been complete. As it was, there was no boundary 
back of the side towards us, and the clouds plunged over 

198 



IN THE CHINANTLA 199 

and downward as well as in the direction of the flow of the 
main mass. No one in the town recognized us. Supper 
and a night's lodging were readily supplied, but when we 
wished to secure new animals for the onward journey, there 
was difficulty. They were promised, indeed, for seven 
o'clock, but it was long after eight before we saw any signs 
of their appearance. Remonstrating, we were told that 
there was other business to attend to, and that the town 
officials could not devote themselves to us. With great 
difficulty, by 10 o'clock all preparations were made, and we 
started on the journey. The animals were not bad, but 
we had been told that there were eight leagues of hard road 
between us and Tepanapa, and six more from there to San 
Juan Zautla, our destination; we were told that we should 
spend the night at Tepanapa, reaching Zautla the second 
day. As we left the town we overtook a funeral procession 
on its way to the little hill-crest cemetery which we passed 
soon after. At first the road was good, gradually ascend- 
ing. It led us up a rising pine-covered crest, with a little 
hollow of deciduous trees in the midst. We were again 
getting into a region where the great hills presented two 
differing slopes, one dry, pine-clad; the other moist and 
covered with the dense tropical forest. We soon found our- 
selves upon the damp slope in a forest, almost the counter- 
part of those with which we were familiar in the land of the 
Mixes. Great oaks were loaded with bromelias and dotted 
with orchids; ferns of many beautiful kinds grew along the 
roadside. Unlike the forest of the the Mixes, the trees here 
were hung with masses of golden-yellow moss, presenting a 
curious and mysterious aspect. From here, the trail de- 
scended rapidly over surfaces of slippery stone and patches 
of mud; the air was heavier and heavier with moisture. 
Ferns abounded, and presently great tree ferns were to be 
seen, here and there, in all directions. Shortly, our road 



200 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

was through a true gorge, where the footing for the horses 
was precarious. Great masses of lycopods of several species 
covered the rocks and httle round tufts of a dark green plant 
with feathery foliage dotted the decaying tree trunks. 
The descent seemed endless, and for more than two hours 
we descended deeper and deeper into the dampness and 
darkness. It was six o'clock when we came out upon a 
slope where the trail was easier and almost level, and it 
was after dark before we reached the jQrst hut of the miser- 
able ranchito of Tepanapa. Checking our horses, we 
called, but received no answer. Sending our mozo to the 
house, we asked for food and shelter, but were refused 
everything, as they said that they were in bed. A little 
lad, however, agreed to show us to the next hut, and we 
followed him as well as we could in the darkness and over 
the slippery road, some rods further. We found there two 
empty huts within an enclosure, and, taking possession of 
one, brought in our things out of the mist, and soon had a 
fire built and a candle lighted. In vain we urged our moza 
to hunt for food. He said that all the houses were empty, 
and, if perchance one were occupied, no one would turn out 
so late to supply us. All were extremely hungry, as we had 
eaten nothing since morning except a tortilla or two with 
some eggs as we rode along. Manuel, Louis and Frank 
slept in the loft, Ramon and I upon the floor below. The 
two mozos with the saddles slept in the other hut. The 
night was cold and the damp air penetrating. We arose 
early to go upon our way, but unfortunately yielded to the 
request of Louis and Ramon, permitting them to go in 
search of food. Two full hours passed before they returned 
with a few tortillas and two eggs ; so that it was half-past- 
eight when finally we started. 

The road was slippery and muddy, descending constant- 
ly; a large portion of the way was through woods: at the 



IN THE CHINANTLA 201 

bottom of the slope we found ourselves by a fine brook, 
which we forded. Then began an ascent as precipitous, 
slippery and unpleasant. The trail followed the bank of 
the stream. Passing through a dense jungle of vegetation, 
where the air was hot and wet, the flora was characteristic. 
Trees with large, coarse, broad pods enclosing two or three 
great seeds, trees with acorn-shaped red fruits, quantities 
of sensitive plants covered with pink flowers, occasional 
orchids bearing flowers of brilliant flame color, and vines 
with lovely blue pea-flowers made up the bulk of the tan- 
gled growth through which we passed. At two places we 
crossed pretty streams, with cascades and narrow gorges, 
opening on to the gorge along the sides of which we were 
travelling; where these streams crossed our trail there were 
great masses of caladiums with their leaves of green velvet. 
We passed two little coffee plantations, the first of which was 
sadly neglected and overgrown with weeds, the second 
neatly kept. From this we rose again, and having gained 
the summit, looked down upon the village of San Juan 
Zautla. 

Riding to the town-house, we met the presidente and 
secretario, the latter an intelligent feUow, who told us that 
the town was dwindling, numbering at present but 80 con- 
tribuentes. He ordered a capital dinner for us of chicken, 
fried bananas, eggs, jrijoles, tortillas and coffee. Though 
the secretario was intelligent, the presidente was otherwise. 
He was good-natured, but a fool. With pride he frequently 
remarked, ^^yo soy presidente'^ (I am president). Then 
he whispered and mumbled, kissed my hand, assumed an 
air of great intelligence, and walked off with a peculiar totter- 
ing movement. These performances took place not once 
or twice, but every time the official made his appearance. 
Having fed us, the secretario disappeared, and did no more 
for us. While waiting for him, our attention was attracted 



ao2 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

by a curious drumming noise. It was due to women who 
were beating cotton. At the first house we visited we found 
three women all busily occupied. An old woman sitting 
in the doorway was spinning thread; a second, somewhat 
younger woman with a baby in a blanket on her back, 
sitting on the ground, was weaving cloth; a third woman 
sat, with a great cushion of moss in a bag of matting on the 
ground before her, over which was spread a deer-skin on 
which was laid raw cotton, which she briskly beat with 
beaters made of five or six divergent sticks fastened together 
at one end. Such beating sticks are called mapaho; one 
is held in each hand, and the beating is briskly done, alter- 
nately with one and the other; the beating is intended to 
spread the raw cotton into a thin and even sheet before it 
is spun into thread. Returning to the town-house, we began 
our work, but were soon interrupted. The town is sit- 
uated on a slope over which the houses are scattered. From 
the porch of the municipal house where we sat, we could 
see several huts upon the slope above. Groups of women 
and children gathered on the little terraces before the houses 
to look down upon us at our work. The presidente and 
other officials had gone to bring us subjects, when we heard 
an outcry upon one of these terraces. A man cried out to 
the officials; struggled, apparently with a woman, then 
fell. The police rushed up the path. A moment later a 
surging crowd of a dozen persons were struggling together 
with cries and shouts. In spite of the commands of the 
segundo secretario, we started for the scene of the dis- 
turbance, but long before we reached the spot, met a big 
topil with his head cut open and blood streaming down his 
face, soaking his garments. His arm was thrown around 
another man's neck, whose wrist he held, dragging him 
thus a prisoner toward the jail. Two others followed, 
holding a bad-looking little man between them. The two 



IN THE CHINANTLA 203 

had fought, and when the topil tried to take them, the httle 
man, seizing a rock, spht open his head. The two persons 
were thrust into the jail and a guard set. Great effort 
was made to find the stone with which the blow was dealt, 
in order that it might be used as evidence. The secretario 
told the topil not to staunch nor wash the wound. With 
natural curiosity, the presidente and other men were clus- 
tered around the jail, looking in at the prisoners, when the 
segundo secretario ordered them from the door. 

This man is a strange one. He is a Cuicatec, who mar- 
ried a Chinatec wife. He is little, but important. He ever 
carries a queer old sword. When he first appeared before 
us, he impressively said, "No tengas cuidado^' (Have no 
care.) He told us that our comfort and our orders should 
be cared for, even though we were in a pueblo of mere 
brutes, unreasoning beings; he should charge himself and 
the officials with our needs. There were scarce three hours 
of daylight in the afternoon, and night set in chilly and 
damp. Meantime, the secretario, the segundo, the presi- 
dente and the to pits, all had disappeared. In vain we 
urged that arrangements should be made for fuel, for beds, 
and for a mozo, whom we had ordered should be supplied 
to accompany the man from Papalo back to that town with 
the horses. It was now dark and late, with no sign of 
attention to our wishes. Through the darkness, we picked 
our way over a muddy road, slippery and soaked with 
water, to the secretario^s house, where we forcibly made 
known our wishes, and said that attention must be paid to 
them. Before we got back to the town-house our shoes were 
soaked with water and heavy with mud, while our clothing 
was soaked through with moisture from the air filled with 
mist and drizzling rain; and this in the midst of the dry 
season ! 

During the afternoon, we had seen a curious- looking 



204 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

indian, dressed in a red flannel shirt, white drawers and a 
cap, but with the regular red Chinantec neck-cloth. He 
was a Mixtec from San Francisco Huitzo, who is in charge 
of the well-kept little coffee finca which we passed upon 
the road. He showed us a bottle of coffee essence of his 
manufacture. It was a heavy, oily, clear liquid which I 
understood he had distilled from a weaker and darker 
coffee extract. It was exceedingly strong, and was sup- 
posed to be used for making coffee, a small quantity of the 
essence being put into a cup with hot water and sugar. 
He desired us to test this, but a look at it was quite suffi- 
cient. He was a handy fellow, and did much to hasten the 
fulfillment of our orders. Under his direction, sleeping 
mats were brought, and he, himself, served our supper, 
when finally it was ready. We were so tired that directly 
after supper we laid down upon the mats spread on the 
damp earthen floor. We had hoped to start our man from 
Papalo back with our horses early; the officials had prom- 
ised that the mozo to accompany him should be ready; but, 
of course, neither breakfast nor mozo was to be seen. So 
we again started for the secretario^s house. The secre- 
tario himself was lying drunk in bed, and the segundo was 
almost as bad. In vigorous words I made known my dis- 
satisfaction. The segundo, with his sword in one hand and 
tortillas in the other, almost too drunk to walk, led us to 
the town-house and summoned the people before him. 
He thundered forth his orders: ''You dogs, children of a 
degraded race! Wretched brutes! What do you mean? 
Why are you not bringing in breakfast for these gentlemen ? 
Eggs, tortillas, jrijoles, chicken? Why are you not sup- 
plying them? Obey his order. FulfiU your duty. You 
hear? If you do not fulfill your duty, you shall be pun- 
ished. Hear and obey at once." Under this impulse the 
men started and breakfast was soon disposed of. 



IN THE CHINANTLA 205 

Work being slack, the boys went bird-hunting. Manuel 
fetched in a vara avis, a little old man of 95 years, who had 
an extra thumb on his right hand. Notwithstanding the 
small population of the town, there were three cases of extra 
digits. In addition to this old man with his extra thumb, 
two persons in the town each had an extra toe upon one 
foot. We have already stated that the presidente of the 
village was a fool. He had plenty of companions. One 
of the men, who made himself quite useful to us was an 
imbecile; he crossed himself, kissed our hands, nodded his 
head, and told us the most surprising things in regard to 
the subjects whom he brought before us. In connection 
with each case he cried and carried on at a great rate, and 
finally insisted that he was going to bring me a raw egg as an 
offering of friendship, which he did. One of his subjects 
was his cousin, who was both idiotic and a deaf-mute. My 
impression was that there were several cases of deaf-mutism 
in the village. One man, whenever any of our party spoke 
to him, or in any way turned our attention to him, piously 
and vigorously crossed himself, grimaced and gesticulated 
as if in a fit. One man, who seemed exceptionally intelli- 
gent, after he had seen us make a plaster bust of one of his 
townfellows, stated with great delight, that it was an idol, 
representing Jesus Christ, and that we were going to use it 
in the church. Unlike any other Indian town we have 
visited, there is not even the pretence of an open school in 
this place. Nowhere else have women and children showed 
so great a fear of us and our work. From the moment that 
I showed an interest in the mapaho, the beating of cotton 
ceased, and the village was quiet. At no time during our 
stay did women or children come to the town-house. Short- 
ly after sending back our horses to Papalo, we found that 
there were no animals for riding in San Juan Zautla. 
Fortunately, our next point, San Pedro, was but two leagues 



2o6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

distant, and rather than wait until animals could be brought 
from Cuicatlan, we decided to walk. The night before we 
were to leave, we made arrangements for our carriers. The 
secretario had set the price at two reales a man; four were 
ordered, and an early hour set for the departure. When 
the time came, our men were in open rebellion. They 
refused to go upon the journey. We told the town officials 
that, if these men failed us, they themselves must do the 
work. The men were really scared, and stated that the 
people of San Pedro had threatened to kill us all, if we came 
to their town. In vain we argued — they were sure that 
the whole party were going to their doom. For such a 
paltry sum no man would risk his life. At last, however, 
the officials decreed obedience, and our party started. At 
first we led the company and the carriers came behind. 
The road led straight down the mountain-side to a brook, 
and then up the opposite side to the summit, just beyond 
which lay our goal. As we started, he who had recog- 
nized the bust of Jesus insisted upon accompanying us a 
way for friendship, and on the journey made various wise 
remarks regarding the busts. Hardly had we started when 
our men again rebelled; they would not make the journey 
for the price agreed upon, the risk was too great; they 
must be paid more, if they went at all. I felt that patience 
had ceased to be a virtue. Telling them that we would no 
longer go ahead, we ordered them to take up their burdens 
and precede us, at the same time threatening to shoot them, 
if they stopped without permission. After marching along 
in this new order for a time, they indicated a desire to par- 
ley. They would carry their burdens to the foot of the hill, 
where they would leave them by the brook-side. We could 
then go on to the village of San Pedro and send back car- 
riers to bring them. To this proposition we gave no en- 
couragement. The descent was abrupt. At the bottom 



IN THE CHINANTLA 207 

was a fine brook, with a hanging bridge of vines swinging 
from tree to tree across it. Here we stopped to drink the 
fresh cool water, cut some sugar-canes, catch butterflies, 
and take views. One of the trees from which the vines 
hung was a perfect mass of ferns, orchids and bromehas 
of many kinds. On the great slope back of us, toward the 
gap through which the brook had broken, were great cliffs 
of massive rock; otherwise the whole mountain slope was 
a sheet of richest green. The ascent was long and difficult, 
and the party went slowly, with many rests. It was amus- 
ing, how, even at this distance, as we mounted the slope, 
we could hear the constant beating of the mapaho in the 
village behind us, as if in rejoicing at our departure. As 
we neared the summit, our carriers again made signals of 
a desire to converse. They would fulfill their whole duty, 
and would carry their burdens to the town-house in San 
Pedro, but would we have the kindness, from here on, to 
take the lead? Oh, yes, we answered, we would take the 
lead, and they should see that nothing would happen. No 
one would harm us; we were not about to die. 

To make a favorable impression, we asked for a drink 
of water at the first house we came to, and passed a greeting 
with the few men, women and children whom we met on 
our way into town. The greater part of the population 
was at church, where we found a service in progress, and 
we were obliged to wait until it was over before we saw the 
town officials. I told the secretario to summon the town 
government to the municipal-house, which was a small 
affair, no more than 15 or 18 by 20 feet, with walls of lashed 
poles and a palm roof. A narrow bench ran around the 
four sides, and two tables, one long and one short one, set 
at right angles, occupied the greater portion of the open 
space. A long wide bench was placed alongside of the 
larger. At one end there was a santo^ in a little shrine 



2o8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

decorated with flowers and leaves. A little fire was built 
upon the floor, over which wax was melting, in which can- 
dles were being dipped. 

The secretario chanced to be a man whom I had met 
at Cuicatlan the year before. He recalled our work, and 
taking us to his own house, we soon had an excellent din- 
ner. He seemed to be well-to-do, and had two houses built 
of slabs lashed vertically together. Nets full of jicaras, 
great stacks of corn neatly laid out, good tableware in 
quantity, and a kerosene-lamp, all were evidences of his 
wealth. We ate at a good table, in the house, where the 
corn was stored. The most astonishing thing, however, 
in the house was an old-fashioned piano, long beyond use. 
How it was ever brought over the mountains to this village 
is a wonder. When we asked him, what we were to pay 
for the dinner, he replied, nothing; that we would begin 
to pay later. The impression made upon us by San Pedro 
was more agreeable than that produced by Zautla. The 
town government is large and vigorous, comprising a dozen 
well-built young fellows. On account of the church festi- 
val, plenty of subjects had been brought together. We 
did not understand what the secretario expected, and 
therefore took up our quarters at the town-house. We 
paid dearly for our misunderstanding. We waited long 
for supper, but none came. The presidente and the older 
men were at church. The secretario was nowhere to be 
found. While we were waiting, the young fellows who 
were making candles, and a crowd of boys, crouched about 
the fire and watched the work. Presently they lay down 
a couple of scrapes on the floor, and the whole group, 
eighteen or twenty in number, dropped down upon them, 
a perfect mass of humanity, packed close together in the 
most curiously twisted attitudes, and were fast asleep in 
no time. They had no covering, but seemed to keep each 




Chinantec Girl Spinning; San Juan Zautla 




Chinantec Wearing; San Juan Zautla 



IN THE CHINANTLA 209 

other warm. After they were fast asleep, some of the other 
men appeared, and we urged the bringing in of supper. A 
handful of tortillas and two fried eggs were not a hearty 
meal for six hungry persons, nor were our sleeping accom- 
modations satisfactory. With difficulty we got some mats, 
and I lay down upon the smaller table, Frank on the larger, 
Louis and Manuel rolled up on the ground below the latter, 
and Ramon and the mozo on the long bench. Half a 
dozen of the older men remained sitting about the fire. It 
can be understood that the room was fairly full. The men 
made no pretense of sleeping until past ten o'clock, and 
two or three times during the night they broke out into loud 
conversation. 

Just outside the town-house, under a thatched shelter, 
a group of old women were cooking atole in great ollas until 
a late hour. This gruel they ladled out to those men and 
boys who had been working, and doled out to them drinks 
from black bottles. The men and boys, with their red 
head-cloths or neck-cloths, went forth from time to time in 
groups upon some public errand. Towards evening, eight 
or ten little fellows came from the forest with bundles of 
firewood upon their heads and great machetes hanging at 
their sides. In the morning, the same group of youngsters 
came in loaded with bunches of green leaves and holly to 
be used in decorating the church. At eight o'clock there 
was a procession in the churchyard; the saint, dressed in 
flowing garments, was carried about, accompanied by ban- 
ners and a band of music. During the festival, everyone 
drank; even the little boys of eight or nine years, who 
brought in their loads of wood, received their spirits, which 
they drank like old topers. There was no evidence of bad 
temper as a result of this drinking, but an increasing stu- 
pidity. When, in the morning, we found our breakfast to 
consist of nothing but coffee, we realized our mistake of the 



2IO IN INDIAN MEXICO 

night before, and promptly betook ourselves to the house 
of the secretario, where we spent the following day. The 
demands of the church during the day were so heavy that 
we did little work. The day itself was dark and dismal. 
In the late morning the boys brought in great loads of poin- 
settia, from which they fashioned brilliant rosettes and gar- 
lands for the church. At night, a wooden platform was 
brought in for a bed, upon which Louis, Manuel and I 
slept, while the others made a bed of broad boards upon the 
floor. Being behind with his developing, Louis set to work 
as soon as the lights were out, and kept at it until half-past- 
one. Scarcely had he come to bed and promptly fallen 
asleep, when there was a pounding at the door, which was 
almost immediately after broken in. Rising, I called out 
to see what was wanted, and four or five Indians, all very 
drunk, came staggering in. The oldest of the party carried 
a great machete, and one of them closely hugged a bottle 
full of spirits. After begging pardon for disturbing us, 
they built a smoky fire, near the drying negatives. Fearing 
that their drunken movements and the smoke would work 
disaster, I made them change their place of rest and fire, 
moving them to the other end of the room. There they 
built another fire, and, before morning, they had consumed 
three bottles of spirits. What with the firelight and smoke, 
the noisy laughter, the loud talking and constant move- 
ment, it was impossible for me to sleep. Only for a single 
hour, when they fell back upon the floor in drunken slum- 
ber, and their fire burned down, did I get a bit of rest. It 
seems that they were an official guard put to watch the town 
store of grain which was kept in the building, and which 
was subject to the depredations of animals. During the 
following viay we completed our work upon Chinantecs. 
The type is one of the best marked. In the child, the nose 
is wide, flat at the tip, with a straight or even concave 



IN THE CHINANTLA an 

bridge; the eyes are widely separated and often oblique; 
the mouth is large, the lips thick and the upper lip projects 
notably beyond the lower; the face is wide, and flat at the 
cheek-bones. With age, this type changes, the nose becomes 
aquiline, and of moderate breadth, the upper lip becomes 
less prominent, the skin lightens. 

For two days more, days of darkness, rain and cold that 
penetrated to the marrow, we remained prisoners in the 
village, waiting for the horses for which we had sent the 
day of our arrival. It was impossible to make photographs, 
nor was it feasible to look around the town, or into the ad- 
joining country. The secretario, indeed, showed us the way 
in which spirits are distilled from the sap of sugar-cane, 
and we had ample opportunity to examine the dress of the 
people and the mode of weaving. All the women dress 
in garments of home-woven cotton, and the red head-cloths, 
so characteristic a feature of the dress of men and boys, 
are woven here from thread already dyed, bought in other 
places. The little figures of animals or birds or geometri- 
cal designs worked in them in green or yellow worsted are 
woven in, at the time of making the cloths, with bright bits 
of wool. 

At last our animals appeared. They had been sent 
from Papalo, and we made arrangements, as we supposed, 
for using them through to Cuicatlan. The animals arrived 
at 9:30 in the morning and the mozo with them reported 
that the roads were bad from the constant rains of the past 
several days. We decided to leave that afternoon, stopping 
at Zautla for the night, and then, making an early start, to 
push through in a single day. The presidente, alcalde, 
and other tov^n officials accompanied us to the border of 
the village, where they bade us adieu, begging for a real 
for drink. As we left, the sky was clear and the mists were 
rising from the valleys. For the first time we gained some 



212 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

idea of the beauty of the country all around us. The houses 
of the town are well built, with walls of poles or narrow 
slabs neatly corded together in a vertical position. The 
roofs are thatched with palm; they pitch sharply from a 
central ridge and the ends pitch also from the ridge in 
independent slopes. The top is crested with a comb of 
thatch, neatly applied. Off to the right from the village 
lay a magnificent valley, with massive rock walls clad with 
green forest. The low masses of clouds and great banks 
of mist but emphasized the impression made by those parts 
of the scene that were visible. Soon we had passed the 
ridge and looked do\\Ti again into the Zautla valley. The 
road was not as bad as we had anticipated. As we made 
our upward climb, we found tliat the flame-colored orchids, 
few when we last passed that way, were out in quantity. 
They are a terrestrial species, and the colors are a beauti- 
ful combination of flame-red with chrome-yellow. The 
other day only the outer and lower flowers of the racemes 
were blo\Mi, but on this occasion the whole cluster was in 
bloom. We noticed strikingly, what had before suggested 
itseK to us, that throusrh this district flowers of certain colors 
mass themselves together. Thus, on this slope, the hun- 
dreds of bunches of flame-colored orchids were rivalled by 
clusters of a tubular flower perhaps an inch in length, of 
almost the same hues. .Aiong the glen-road near Tepanapa 
all sorts of flowers seemed to be pink or flesh-colored, 
while along the jungle-bank, near the coffee plantation, 
everything was blue or purple. When we reached Zautla, 
neither the presidente, the secretario nor the segiindo was 
in iovm. The big topil, whose head was healing, did the 
honors of the place. We had intended to make an early 
start, but it was hah past six before we mounted and were 
on our way. Going back over the old road, we soon reached 
the little coffee fitica in charge of our ]Mixtec friend, and 



IN THE CHINANTLA 213 

here we left the familiar trail, for what our guide insisted 
was a better one. We struck up and up and up the slope 
to avoid little ravines which he assured us were very bad. 
At last, when it was certain that he had completely lost his 
way, we started down into the forest. For a time we fol- 
lowed a bad and disused trail, but soon even this disap- 
peared, and we tore our way through the tropical vegeta- 
tion as best we could. Often the men had to cut the way 
with their machetes; sometimes we slid for yards over the 
wet mud; frequently our heads were caught by hanging 
vines, and faces and hands were scratched with brambles. 
When at last we came out upon a cleared space, we found 
ourselves at the Chinantec village of Santa Maria. Per- 
haps there were four houses in the village. Our appearance 
caused great excitement. Our pack-animals bade fair to 
destroy the maize and other plantings in the field. In the 
trail were oxen, which had to be gotten out of our way for 
fear of being driven to frenzy by our mere passing. They 
assured us that we were on the road to Tepanapa, so we 
completed the descent to the brooklet and started up a trail 
which at any time would have been steep, stony, slippery, 
all at once. We were compelled, finally, to dismount and 
lead our animals; Frank, before he did so, tumbled his horse 
three times down the bank. At one place two of the horses 
fell together in a struggling mass, and for a moment things 
looked serious. All the animals but my own fell, at least 
once, before we reached the summit. From there, it was 
an easy ride over a level district until we were in sight of 
Tepanapa, which, by sunlight, presented a most attractive 
appearance. The houses are spread over a gentle slope, 
to the very edge of a little barranca. Each had a little 
enclosure, with a group of banana plants. Butterflies of 
brilliant hues lazily flew about, and a few birds uttered 
their characteristic cries. We could not, however, delay. 



214 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Before us lay a tremendous ascent; the first part, which 
we had passed after dusk, we found rougher than we real- 
ized; rock masses here were covered with a thick cushion 
of brilliant crimson moss, a kind of sphagnum. The guUy 
trail had not been improved by the recent rains, and it 
taxed our animals severely to reach the summit. Arrived 
in the district of the trees loaded with beards of golden- 
yellow moss, we caught a magnificent view back over the 
vaUey. With one sweep of the eyes, we could almost follow 
our whole round of wandering. The ridges on which lay 
San Juan Zautla and San Pedro Soochiapan both were in 
sight, as were the valleys in which Santa ^Nlaria and Tepa- 
napa lay. But the only actual feature which we could see 
and recognize was the little coffee pica this side of Zautla. 
The combination of green mountains, blue ridges and bare 
rock cliffs was grand. Here our road forked, and at this 
point we had a moment's excitement. We met an old 
Indian man with a baby tied upon his back, and his old wife, 
carrying a burden, followed after. Before them a black 
bull was calmly walking. The moment the old man saw 
us, he waved his arms and cried out, in great excitement, 
''Toro, muy bravo! ^' (Bull, very fierce!) and hastened 
forward to catch the lasso wound round the horns of the 
beast to lead him out of our way. Just then the bull took 
matters into his own control, and, with a snort and plunge, 
started wildly away, dragging the old fellow at a wild run 
down the trail, finally whirling him and the baby into a 
heap by the road-side, while he himself took up the moun- 
tain-side. It was after dark before we reached Papalo. 

After much grumbling, supper was prepared and a 
solemn promise given that we should leave at seven in the 
morning. When we were ready, no animals were to be 
seen. The presidente asserted that the price which we 
had paid was only to that point, and that if we wanted 



IN THE CHINANTLA 



215 



animals for Cuicatlan we must make a new arrangement. 
This was sheer blacls:mail, because there had been no mis- 
understanding in the matter, and a liberal price had been 
paid. After wrangling for an hour, we shook the dust of 
Papalo literally from our feet, and started to walk to Cui- 
catlan, telling the town authorities that our burdens must 
be taken by mozos to the cabecera before three o'clock, and 
that we should pay nothing for the service. Probably we 
should not have been so ready to take this heroic action if 
we had not remembered that the road was down hill all the 
way, and good walking. Still, fifteen miles is fifteen 
miles, and the sun was hot, and though we left at 8:30, it 
was two o'clock before we entered Cuicatlan. We had no 
adventures by the way, except the killing of a coral snake 
which lay in the middle of the road. At three the mozos 
with their burdens arrived, and felt it very hard that we 
kept our promise of paying nothing for their service. 



CHAPTER XVIII 

TO COIXTLAHUACA 

(1900) 

FOR a day we rested at Cuicatlan to make arrange- 
ments for a trip to the land of the Chochos. We 
complained bitterly to the jeje politico regarding the mis- 
erable animals which had been supplied us for our last 
journey, and demanded something better. 

Frank had had enough of practical anthropology, and 
left us, so there were but four to be provided. At 
eight o'clock the following morning, four decent horses and 
two pack animals were waiting at our door. A mounted 
arriero was in charge, to accompany us. Although he had 
been inefficient on the preceding journey, the same jail- 
bird was sent with us, as mozo, whom we had had before. 
At 8:30 our party of six persons started; passing the river^ 
which we forded, an excellent road took us, for a league, 
over the sandy plain, which was fairly grown with trees, 
supplying a little shade. The great pitahayas were in 
bloom, and their white flov/ers looked well against the ugly, 
stiff green branches. The roadside was bordered with 
acacias which, in full bloom, presented masses of golden 
balls and perfumed the air with their delicate odor. Pass- 
ing a considerable sugar hacienda, the trail struck into the 
mountains, and for three hours we made a steady ascent. 
The road itself was excellent but the sun beat down with 
fearful force, and the heat was reflected from the bare road 
and the rock cliffs along which we travelled. At one place 

the vegetation consisted of a curious mixture of gigantic 

216 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 217 

cactuses, rising as single stalks as high as telegraph poles 
but larger in diameter, and palms. Arriving at the crest, 
we saw a long plain stretching before us, presenting a min- 
gled growth of palms and pines. At the very border of 
the ridge stood a hut of poles, where we stopped to drink 
tepache and to eat broiled chicken which we had brought 
with us. We found the old woman, an Indian — neither 
Cuicatec, Chinantec, Mixtec, nor Zapotec, as we might ex- 
pect — but a full Aztec from Cordoba. She was bright 
and shrewd, and, as we chatted with her, we noticed a little 
chicken a few days old awkwardly running about with 
curiously deformed feet. Upon my noticing it, the old 
lady remarked that the moon made it so. I inquired what 
she meant. She said, "Yes, w^e know it is the moon which 
shapes the bodies of all young animals." We followed 
the road a long distance over the hot plain, passing San 
Pedro Jocotepec to our left, and shortly after, struck up the 
mountain side and had another long and steady climb, 
until, at last, we reached the crest of all the district. Here 
and there, we encountered bits of limestone, which always, 
in this southern country, makes the worst roads for travel. 
The rain erodes it into the oddest of forms, leaving pro- 
jecting ridges almost as sharp as knife-edges, with irregu- 
lar hollows pitting the surface, so that it forms a most inse- 
cure and unpleasant foot-hold for the animals. Not only 
so, but the surface, rough as it is, is frequently as polished 
as glass, and, whether wet or dry, is slippery to the tread. 
Walking over these jagged surfaces of limestone is destruc- 
tive to any shoes. A single afternoon of this will do more 
wear than a month of ordinary use. Troublesome as these 
limestones are, as roads, they are ever interesting, because 
the masses by the roadside present the most astonishing and 
beautiful forms of waterwear; upon a mass eight or ten 
feet across, there will be worn a system of ridges and inter- 



2i8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

vening channels, which, in miniature, seems to reproduce 
the orographic features of the whole country. 

While we were passing over one of these limestone 
stretches, a little before reaching the summit, we found a 
spot of unusual difficulty. The two pack animals were 
together, one tied to the tail of the other; the second had 
several tim^es acted badly, but in passing over this bit of 
road, he jumped and plunged, so that his pack loosened 
and slid to one side. Plunging, kicking, and falling, he 
dragged down the unfortunate beast to whose tail he was 
tied; the old rope tugged and creaked, and, for a moment, 
we expected to see the very tail of the forward animal 
pulled out, and both packs destroyed by the struggling 
beasts. Fortunately, at this mom.ent, the rope itself broke. 
The forward animal was loosened and quickly quieted; 
but the other one kicked and struggled, with our load of 
plates and developing trays under him. Quickly cutting 
the ropes that held the burden, we tried to release the ani- 
mal, but it lay exhausted, and, for a moment, we thought it 
dead. Really, however, it was not hurt at all, and the loads 
themselves appeared undamaged. The burdens having 
been repacked, we again started on the journey. At several 
places on this road, we had noticed cairns, or heaps of peb- 
bles. On inquiring from Don Manuel — the funny little 
man, who had the animals in charge — we learned that 
every Chocho Indian passing the place adds a pebble to 
the heap, to secure good luck and insure his safe return 
home. At the summit, we found one of these piles of stone 
surmounted by a cross, and learned that when the Cho- 
chos reach this spot, they always stop, repeat a prayer, and 
dance for good health and fortune before the cross. It 
was now almost dark. Soon we saw the downward slope, 
at the foot of which Huautla lay. We hastened down the 
slope, passing through a grove of oak trees, heavily loaded 





y 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 219 

with bromelias ; at the foot of the slope, we crossed a stream 
of clearest water, bordered with handsome cypress trees, 
and passing several houses, came to the one where we 
planned to stop for the night. It was now dark. There 
was no opportunity for sleeping in the hut, and so we pre- 
pared to lie down outside. The people in the house pre- 
pared tortillas and beans, and, after eating, we rolled up 
in our blankets and lay down on some dried corn-husks on 
the ground. It was a night of suffering; the cold was so 
great that our blankets furnished no protection, and the 
place swarmed with fleas innumerable. At last, at four 
o'clock, two hours before sunrise, we started on our journey 
in the hope of getting warm. The air was damp and heavy, 
and, until the sun rose, we had a desolate journey. We 
were again upon a limestone district, with interesting feat- 
ures of scenery, and with few difficulties in the road. We 
passed many oblong hills of limestone, the horizontal layers 
of which upon the slopes present tiers of steps, one behind 
the other. These hills were astonishingly overgrown with 
trees, and formed masses of the darkest green. There was 
a great deal of subterranean water, and sink-holes produced 
by caving over such streams were frequent. The soil gen- 
erally was a residual red or brownish clay. Flocks of gray 
pigeons were startled from their roosts by our passing; and 
little doves were plentiful; great hawks and small eagles 
were seen in pairs, hovering high in the air. We passed 
several little ranches, to one of which the name of El Zapato 
is given from a foot-print which is said to be painted on the 
rocks at that point. Finally, we saw before us the hill 
behind which, Don Manuel assured us, lay Coxitlahuaca. 
To mount and drop down behind it seemed a simple thing, 
but we had to traverse the whole length of the rather irregu- 
lar ridge, which seemed interminable. The road which led 
up to it was called the Rio Blanca — white river — an 



220 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

appropriate name, as it was broad and deeply worn into the 
soft rock of which the ridge consisted. When we reached 
the crest, we found the ridge extending as a flat plain of 
light, buff-colored tufa, with many trails worn deeply inta 
it, and giving out, under the bright sunshine, a frightful 
reflection of light and heat. Long before we reached the 
end of this dreary stretch, we saw Coixtlahuaca and its ad- 
joining indian villages, Nativitas and San Cristobal. As 
we drew nearer, the view was striking. The town is broad, 
but of little depth; its streets are laid out with regularity^ 
its great church, with masses of ruin on either side, is con- 
spicuous; the plaza is large for the size of the town. To 
one side of it are the portales and the town-house and 
jefatura. To the right of the town and behind it is a 
large, walled cemetery with many gravestones. Back of 
all, rise hills of tufa, such as we had just traversed. The 
houses, similar to those at Huautla, and in the country be- 
tween there and here, appear to be constructed with a 
view to cold. At least, two houses usually occur in one 
inclosure; the one, more important, corresponds to the god- 
house of the Aztecs and the other to the cook-house. The 
former is better built, and has low, carefully constructed 
walls, and a high abruptly four-pitched, heavily thatched 
roof. Going to the jefatura, the young clerk there was 
much impressed by the documents we presented, and asked 
us if we would accompany him to the jefe^s house, as thus no 
time would be lost. Upon arriving at the house of the 
jeje, we found that a wedding was about to be celebrated 
in the church. The jeje received us with magnificent 
promises; we should room at the palace, arrangements 
should be made for boarding at a private house, beds and 
other proper furniture should be brought immediately, and 
the following day we should journey on horseback through 
all the indian towns of the vicinity. This was all very 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 221 

fine, but we told him that meantime we were hungry — 
we had eaten nothing since the night before and then had 
fared badly — and that we must unload our animals, which 
we had left with the rest of our company, standing in front 
of the palace. The unloading was done at once and we 
were given the school-house for our quarters, at the rear of 
the patio of the palace. At this moment, however, every- 
thing else was neglected for the wedding. This we all 
attended, and it was, indeed, an occasion. The bride in 
white, with veil and orange-blossoms, was accompanied 
by her mother, god-mother, and other female friends. She 
was really a pretty and wholesome indian girl, and the 
groom was a decent young mestizo, with gray wool som- 
brero, and linen jacket, cloth trousers, etc. He and his 
god-father were bustling about attending to all sorts of 
preliminaries. In the solemn procession which took place 
to the church, the company of ladies preceded; the jeje 
and myself led the line of male friends, and, when we filed 
into the church, the building was fairly filled. The special 
friends, including our party, moved in procession to the 
high altar, where the ceremony was performed. The 
bridal company knelt with candles in their hands. Other 
candles, some of enormous size, were burning in various 
parts of the church. The priest, with much ceremony, gave 
the sacrament of the communion to the couple, and then 
fastened two golden chains, crossing, about both their 
necks. A scarf of satin was placed upon them so as to 
cover both, passing over the head of the woman, and the 
shoulders of the man. From the church, our procession, 
dwindled to the particular friends and guests of honor, 
walked through the village to the justice-court, where the 
civil ceremony was performed. The matter having been 
accomplished with full respect to the requirements of the 
law, we thought again of dinner. The jeje told us that 



222 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

to-morrow we should go to our boarding-place, but that 
to-day we were to dine together in state. Time passed, 
hour after hour lagged by, until the mozo and arriero struck 
for money, with which to buy themselves something to eat. 
Meantime, we waited. Finally, at three o'clock in the 
afternoon, we were summoned, and the jefe, myself, and 
our companions, started down the hot, dusty, main street. 
On and on we walked, until, at last, the jeje himseK impa- 
tiently demanded of our guide how far we had to go. At 
last, we heard the strains of music, and, shortly, found our- 
selves in a yard crowded with people, among whom two 
bands of music were present, one with stringed instruments 
and the other with brass. It was the house of the bride, 
and after a moment's waiting in the yard, we were ushered, 
by the jeje^s clerk, into the building. It had been cleared 
of all its contents and a long table, set in the middle, ran 
lengthwise of the place. Benches were placed beside it. 
A line of vases, filled with bouquets, occupied the middle 
of the table and between these were bottles of wine, cata- 
Imi, mescal, pulque, tepache, beer, etc. The ladies were 
already seated; we took the remaining seats. The com- 
pany consisted of the bride and groom, their parents, god- 
parents, families, and particular friends. And then, we 
had a dinner which amply compensated for the thirty-six 
hours through which we had been fasting — good bread, soup, 
stews, broiled meat, mole, mole prieto, chicken, beans, sweet- 
meats, coffee, with the beverages before mentioned. Dishes, 
when they came in, were politely passed across the table to 
the ladies opposite; no one ate till all were served, and 
when we were through, the place was cleared, and another 
room full of friends sat down to the bountiful repast. And 
then a third, and then a fourth, till everyone had feasted, 
even to the commonest, and the musicians, to whom abun- 
dance was carried after those invited in had eaten. Through 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 223 

all this lengthy feasting the bands of music alternated with 
each other. When all had eaten, the women quickly- 
cleared the house, the tables were moved, and all the chairs 
of the neighborhood were set stiffly around the walls, after 
which dancing began, continuing through the night. 

After having eaten, we stepped outside to visit with the 
crowd. Among them, several drunken men showed spec- 
ial friendliness. One of these insisted upon showing us 
an idol, which, from his description, should have been a 
rather beautiful piece. It turned out to be a very crudely- 
made head, wrought in coarse, cellular lava. Considering 
the material, the work was really fine; nor was it a fragment 
broken from the body, as there had never been more than 
what we saw. From here, a yet more drunken dulcero 
insisted on our going to his dulceria and bake-shop, where 
he told us that he had a much finer piece. We found he 
really had an enormous head, made of coarse, but rather 
bright, red stone; it was another example of the same type 
of separate head, a type which must be characteristic of the 
district. 

Nothwithstanding the fine promises, we found no beds 
or other furniture when we returned to our room. This 
was not, perhaps, surprising, in view of the excitement over 
the wedding, which might drive lesser matters out of the 
mind of the great official. With difficulty, we secured some 
mats from the chief of police, and made our beds with these 
upon the desks and benches of the school room. But, 
though we remained in Coixtlahuaca several days, no beds 
were forthcoming, though we referred to them often enough; 
nor did the private boarding-house materialize. We, how- 
ever, found a little place in the village where we got plenty 
of good food cheaply. Nor did the ride on horseback 
through the neighboring villages, which had been so pleas- 
antly suggested by the jeje, materialize. However, each 



224 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

day of our stay we were assured that all arrangements had 
been made for it to take place on the morrow. 

We have already mentioned the plaza as large in pro- 
portion to the size of the town. On Sunday it was crowded, 
and while many things were bought and sold, the trade in 
sombreros surpassed all others. This is a specialty of all 
the district; throughout the Chocho towns, they make an 
excellent grade of palm-hats and everyone engages in the 
making. Both men and women braid palm, and in every 
yard there is excavated in the soft, tufaceous rock, a cueva, 
or cave, in which they work. Here the palm is left between 
times, and here two persons generally work together, each 
braiding at a hat, while a little cross, cut in the rock-wall, 
looks down upon the work, for good luck. These caves 
have a narrow opening upward and are scarcely large 
enough to admit the two persons who sit at their work. 
The object of the cave is to keep the work moist, as the 
plaiting cannot be well done, if the palm dries out. 

The Monday we were there, the victory of February 
5th was celebrated. The day began with music by the 
brass-band, from the roof of the presidencia. The band, 
a large one, consisted almost entirely of boys about fifteen 
years of age. Only the director and one among the players 
were men gro\\Ti. At sunrise the national flag was raised, 
and at seven the church-bells were rung. Through the 
afternoon, games of ball and cock-fights furnished amuse- 
ment. Among the crowd, at the house of the bride, we had 
met a little, stout man of about twenty-five or thirty years, 
who considered himself superior to the other people, and 
who variously attempted to make himself familiar. At 
several times during our measuring and bust-making, he 
had hung around, making smart remarks, but we had never 
invited him to submit to measure, as he did not seem to be 
a really full-blood Indian. He had made a nuisance of 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 225 

himself, but, finally, one day, when he was standing in the 
crowd, which was looking on, he called my attention to a 
friend of his, remarking that here was a good subject. On 
calling this young man to be measured, we met with unex- 
pected resistance. He was purely Indian, short, well- 
dressed, and well-mannered, but he refused to be meas- 
ured. We had had some little trouble with our subjects 
that afternoon, and therefore insisted that he should under- 
go the operation. He refused. Of course, the officials were 
on our side, and the police led him off to jail. When he saw 
that there was no escape, he consented to be measured, and 
they brought him back, under guard, until the operation 
was performed. So much feeling had been raised by the 
matter, that his foolish friend, to whose jocularity he owed 
the unpleasant experience, thought best himself to be 
measured. Accordingly measures were taken, although 
it was after dark, and a candle had to be used in reading. 
As our day's work was done, we returned to our room, 
making ready to go to supper. The crowd had departed. 
To our surprise, we found these foolish fellows at our door 
awaiting us. "Sir," they said, "we would speak with you 
a moment." Going aside with them, I asked their wishes. 
They then launched out, with weeping and groans and much 
wringing of hands, into a dreary tale. They were young 
teachers waiting for appointment; one of them had a little 
family; it would be a dreadful thing for them to be taken 
away and forced into the army. It was impossible to con- 
vince them that there was no harm in the matter. After 
long discussion and elaborate explanations, they cheered 
up somewhat, but insisted that I must go to the house of one 
of them, the one who had given trouble, to take pulque. 
We went, three abreast, each one of them taking one of my 
braziios queridos — " beloved little arms; " as we went, they 
alternately indulged in admiring exclamations — "Ah, 



226 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Severe, what a maestro 1 how fine a gentleman! how 
amiable! Say Manuelito, was there ever such a one." At 
the house, which was neat and clean, I met the mother and 
two little ones, who would be left behind in case Severo 
were forced to go into the army. Then the pulque was 
brought in and sampled. As I was leaving to go to supper,, 
they said, no, I must go to my room; they would ac- 
company me. In vain I reminded them that my companions 
were waiting for me at the eating-place; I must be seen 
back to my very door, then I might go where I pleased; 
but with them I had gone forth, and until they saw me 
home again, they would be responsible for my person. 

Coixtlahuaca itself is largely a mestizo town. But 
immediately in its neighborhood, and on its outskirts, are 
Indian villages. All Chochos know Spanish, and but few 
talk their own language. There is little of interest in their 
life and nothing characteristic in their dress, which is that 
of mestizos in general. But the physical type is well de- 
fined. The stature is small; the face is short and broad;, 
the nose is wide and flat, with a fat, flattened tip; the 
hair is somewhat inclined to curl, especially on top behind. 

Despairing of the promised trip through the villages^ 
we issued orders for our animals to be ready early one morn- 
ing. Only after vigorous complaints and threats were they 
actually ready. The owner of the beast which I, myself, 
mounted went with us on foot, and a mozo was supplied 
for carrying instruments. In spite of fair promises that 
we would leave at three, it was 4:40 before we started, 
though we had risen at half -past- two. Our arriero was the 
best we ever had; far from sparing his good horse and 
grumbling at our speed, he was continually complaining 
at our slowness. "Why don't the boys want to go fast? " 
he would say. "Don't you want to get there at a good hour? 
Why do you go so slowly? " And then, striking the horse, 




.■'k-:^'-jis&^.^ C- 



I 



TO COIXTLAHUACA 227 

he trotted along at wonderful speed. We reached Huautla 
at half-past-eight, stopping an hour to feed our horses and 
to eat beans and tortillas. We then pushed on down the 
slope, and out over the long ridge, passing the hut of our 
Cordoban Aztec woman. It was the hottest hour of the 
day when we descended the broad road, over the hot rocks, 
and saw Cuicatlan in the distance. Thanks to our arrierOy 
we drew up at Dona Serafina's when it was but 3 40 in the 
afternoon, having been upon the road eleven hours. 



CHAPTER XIX 

HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 
(1900) 

A SHORT ride upon the train, through the hot and 
^^ dusty valley, brought us to the miserable station of 
San Antonio, from which, we had been assured, a coach ran 
daily to Teotitlan del Camino; arrived at the station, no 
stage was in sight, and we were told that it sometimes came 
and sometimes not. Accordingly, leaving my companions 
at the station in care of the baggage, I walked to the village, 
half a mile away, to see what arrangements could be made 
for transportation. It was hot, and it seemed difficult to 
arouse interest on the part of the town authorities. Neither 
conveyance nor animals were to be had. Accordingly, a 
foot messenger was sent to Teotitlan, which is a cabecera, 
asking that some arrangement be made for transporting us. 
As there was no hurry, and it would be some time before 
we could receive an answer, I sat under the thatched roof 
in front of the town-house, resting and enjoying the little 
breeze which had sprung up. Suddenly the belated coach, 
itself, came into sight, bound for the station. Starting 
to mount, the driver told me it was better for me to remain 
sitting comfortably in the shade, and that he would pick up 
my companions, of whom, I told him, there were three, and 
that I could join the company, as they passed. As arrange- 
ments had already been made regarding the transportation 
of the baggage by mules, the advice seemed good, and I 
remained where I was. A long time passed, and when, at 

last, the coach arrived, it contained but one passenger, a 

228 



HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 229 

dignified licenciado. When I asked the driver where my 
companions were, he answered that they had refused to 
come because I had sent no written order to that effect. 
I suggested that we should turn back and get them, but to 
this proposition he gave refusal. Not only so, but the 
licenciado expressed vexation at the delay which he was 
suffering, and demanded that we should go on at once. 
Argument, persuasions, threats were all of no avail, and, 
as it was necessary that I should see the jeje at the earliest 
possible moment, I was forced to mount the coach and 
leave my unfortunate and obedient companions to their 
fate. For an hour and a half the coach lumbered slowly 
over a hot and dusty road, which passed between small, 
bare, gray or brown rock hills, rising to a higher level only 
a little before we reached Teotitlan itself. 

Hastening to the jefatura, I discovered that the jeje 
had gone to Mexico, leaving the presidente of the town as 
his lieutenant. This man was neither willing, interested, 
nor efficient. He had little authority, even with his own 
policemen and townsmen. I requested that the first thing 
should be to send for my companions and bring them to 
town within the briefest time. Orders were sent by the 
policemen to the driver of the coach, that he should return 
at once to the station; to these orders, he sent the false 
reply that his coach had broken down, one wheel being 
completely ruined. After some wrangling and delay, the 
presidente sent a foot-messenger to San Antonio with orders 
to the authorities of that village to supply three animals 
for the travellers. The messenger left at five in the even- 
ing. Meantime, we arranged with difficulty for beasts 
for our further journey. Although we were assured that 
no animals from the town could accompany us further than 
the first ranchito in the mountains, named San Bernardino, 
they assured us that fresh animals could be obtained there 



230 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

for the remainder of the journey. Going to the regular 
hotel in the village, we found the prices higher than in 
Oaxaca or Puebla, and equal to those of a first-class hotel 
in Mexico itself. As the landlady seemed to have no dis- 
position to do aught for us, we decided to look elsewhere. 
At a second so-called hotel we found a single bed. At this 
point, a bystander suggested that Don Pedro Barrios would 
probably supply us lodging; hastening to his house, I 
secured a capital room, opening by one door directly onto 
the main road, and by another, opposite, onto the large patio 
of his place. The room was large and clean, and four 
good cots were soon in place. Having ordered supper 
at a little eating-house, for four persons, to be ready at seven 
o'clock, I spent a little time in looking at relics found in the 
neighborhood. Pottery figures and heads are quite com- 
mon and frequently painted brilliantly; small heads and 
ornaments of green-stone are not uncommon; curious clubs 
of stone for beating bark-paper aretalso found; objects 
of gold and silver have been found in ancient graves, near 
the foot of the mountains, on the outskirts of the village. 
These were of curious forms and excellent workmanship, 
and included large ornaments for the ears and pendants 
for the neck, made of thin sheets of gold ; turtles and human 
skulls cast in a single piece; and most curious of all, odd 
pieces of filagree where the gold-wire was coiled into 
strange human heads. One of these was made half of gold 
and half of silver wire. 

At seven, no sign of my companions had appeared. 
A policeman went to tell the keeper of the eating-house that 
we would eat at eight, and, putting my chair outside the 
open door, I sat in the cool air and watched the people 
passing in the moonlight. Eight o'clock came, and no 
companions. The supper hour was postponed to nine. 
Between nine and ten, Don Pedro and I talked over various 



HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 231 

matters, and at last, yielding to his solicitation, I went to 
supper, he promising to send my comrades in case they 
should arrive during my absence. I had just finished 
supper, at half-past ten, when my three hungry companions 
arrived, with big appetites for their own meals, and it was 
after eleven before the party was through its supper. 

They, themselves, had by no means spent a dull after- 
noon. The station agent and his lady wife had indulged 
in a vigorous battle. Both were drunk, shot revolvers 
recklessly, bit one another, tore hair, and clubbed most 
vigorously. The man finally took $6,000 in money out of 
the company's safe and left the station, vowing that he 
would never be seen again. Though the authorities at 
San Antonio had received the order to supply animals at 
six o'clock, it was after nine before they had the beasts 
ready for the travellers. 

After an excellent night's rest we started our pack-ani- 
mals, and were ourselves ready for the journey at nine, 
when we found that no arrangements had been made for 
a foot mozo to carry our instruments. This again caused 
delay and trouble, but at last we were upon the road, and 
started out through the little village towards the mountains. 
My animal appeared a beast of vigor and spirit, and my 
hope ran high. The moment, however, that we struck the 
climb, matters changed. He then stopped every few yards, 
breathing as if it were his last gasp. This he kept up for 
the whole ascent, and there seemed doubt whether he would 
ever reach the summit. For a long distance, the road fol- 
lowed the side of a gorge in which a fine brook plunged 
and dashed. We passed and repassed picturesque groups 
of Mazatec indians with their burdens. The women wore 
enaguas, the lower part of which was brown, the upper 
white. Their huipilis are among the most striking we have 
seen, being made of native cotton, decorated with elaborate 



232 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

embroidered patterns of large size, in pink or red. The 
favorite design is the eagle. Men wore cotones of black 
or dark blue wool. We had been riding steadily for two 
hours before we reached San Bernardino, where the mozos 
and pack animals were changed, and where we rested for a 
few minutes. We then rode for a long time, gently ascend- 
ing through forests of pine or oak. Here and there the air- 
plants on the oak trees were notable. Finally, we mounted 
to a road along a narrow ridge, like a knife's edge, and from 
here on had one of the most remarkable roads that I have 
ever travelled. Keeping continuously upon the crest, we 
had upon the one side the dry slope, with the pine forest, 
and on the other the damp slope, densely grown with low 
oaks, heavily clad with orchids and bromelias and weighted 
with great bunches of gray moss. The road passed up and 
down gentle and abrupt slopes separated by level spaces. 
When we first caught sight of Huauhtla it looked so near, 
and the road to be traversed was so plain, that we expected 
to reach the towm before three o'clock; but the trail proved 
drearily long. True, the scenery was magnificent. The 
great mass of mountains; curious ridges extending out 
from their flanks; tlie multitude of horizontal, parallel 
long roads following these; the little towns, San Geronimo, 
San Lucas — all were attractive. From the great slope 
opposite Huauhtla, the view of the town was most impres- 
sive. Before us opened a narrow valley, the depth of which 
we only realized after we had traversed it. An hour and 
a haK was necessary for making the descent and the up- 
climb. From the point whence we were looking, the church, 
town-house, and clustered houses of the village were above 
us. Below stretched a line of nublina, and beneath it the 
whole great mountain flank was checkered with the irregu- 
lar browTi and green fields belonging to the villagers. It 
was already five o'clock when we began the descent from 




■%^ ^ 



f < 


J 

1 
i 

• i 


E - 




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•4 


fee3 


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HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 233 

this fine view-point, and, on our way down the slope and 
up the opposite slope to the village, we met great numbers 
of drunken Indians, — as it was Sunday, — usually a man and 
woman together. Two of the men we met had been fight- 
ing, and were covered with blood; the face of one of them 
was livid with the blows which he had received. Many 
of the parties were noisy and quarrelsome, and some of them 
showed a tendency to meddle with us, as we passed. 

The greater portion of the journey had been over fine, 
dry roads; after we reached the knife-edge ridge, how- 
ever, whenever there was a descent or ascent, we found the 
road of clay, moist and slippery; in the rainy season these 
bits would be bad enough. At this time of year they are 
due to the nublina, great masses of which we saw from the 
time we reached the crest-road, and, at times, we passed 
through great sheets of it which cut off all view and which 
soaked our clothing. Upon our last descent and ascent, we 
were almost discouraged, and the last half-hour of our 
journey was made by the light of the moon, struggling 
through nublina. Though it was dark, when we reached 
the village, we were impressed with the fineness of the 
municipal-house, the best constructed we have seen in an 
Indian town. Its location, near the edge of the mountain 
slope, giving a magnificent outlook over the great valley, is 
very fine. The houses of the Mazatecs are picturesque. 
The walls are built of mud, or slabs or posts daubed with 
mud, while the roofs are thatched with palm. The ridge 
pole extends, at both ends, in projections which themselves 
are thatched, forming curious and striking horns. This 
same mode of thatch, picturesque in the extreme, is also 
used above the little granaries which are raised, on poles, 
several feet above the ground, in order to keep the con- 
tents from the attacks of animals. Huauhda is a large 
town. The village and its immediate dependencies have 



234 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

a population of 7000. Until lately the town was jealous of 
visits from outside, and little inclined to hospitality towards 
travellers. If this were formerly true, it has ceased to be so. 
We were received most heartily; the large and enthusiastic 
town government, after learning our errand, expressed their 
willingness to aid us in every way. They at once cleared 
a fine large room in the town-house for our occupancy, 
prepared four beds of boards covered with petates, and 
brought from the priest's house, hard by, blankets, sheets, 
and pillows for my own use. Arrangements were also 
made for our eating with the priest, Padre Manzano, with 
whom we fared in truly regal fashion. In the days we 
stayed at Huauhtla, there were no delays in our work and 
everything went in orderly fashion. It is true, our subjects 
for busts were an awkward and trying lot. The first sub- 
ject broke the back-piece of the mould to fragments, and, 
when the plaster was being applied to his face, he opened 
his mouth and talked, opened his eyes, and drew out his 
nose-tubes, with the result that eyes, nose and mouth were 
all filled with the soft mixture, and it was all that we could 
do to clean him without damage. As for trying to take his 
bust again, that was quite out of the question. The second 
subject was all right, until the last application had been 
made, when he turned in the partly hardened mould with 
truly disastrous results. The third one acted so awkwardly, 
that a piece of mould, which should have come off singly, 
was taken off in ten fragments. 

The dress of the Mazatec women is elaborate and 
striking, both £nagua and huipil being made from the cot- 
ton woven by themselves. At the base of the enagua is a 
broad and heavy band of wool, embroidered in geometrical 
patterns, the color being cochineal. Above these bands, 
there are embroideries in the same colored wool, 
animal and human figures, and geometrical designs. Un- 



, i' 




^ m' 




Aif^ 



HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 135 

fortunately, cochineal, while brilliant, is by no means perma- 
nent, a single washing of the garment spreading the color 
through the white texture. The huipilis are ornamented 
frequently with red, purple and crimson ribbons, bought 
in stores in the town, which are sewed to the garment in such 
a fashion as to divide it into rectangular spaces. These, in 
turn, are occupied with the elaborate large patterns in pink 
representing the eagle and other designs already described. 
It is uncommon among Mexican Indians to fmd a native 
use of silk. Here, however, silk-worms are reared and carry- 
cloths, kerchiefs and belts are woven from their product. 
These are worn by both men and women. The mode of 
wearing the hair among the Mazatcc women is in two broad, 
flat braids hanging down the back. The women made no 
demur whatever to being measured, but everyone, who pre- 
sented herself for the ooeration, came dressed in her best 
clothing, with her hair elaborately braided, and showed seri- 
ous disappointment and dissatisfaction if not invited to be 
photographed. 

The town has a most curious reputation, as devoted to 
commerce, and not to manual labor. In fact, it is considered 
disgraceful for a man of Huauhtla to indulge in work. The 
people of San Lucas, the nearest town, and a dependency, 
are, on the other hand, notably industrious, and it is they 
who carry burdens and do menial work for the lordly 
Huauhtla people. Mrs. de Butrie told us that she tried in 
vain to get a cook in the village. The woman was satisfied 
to cook and found no fault with the wages offered, but 
refused the job because it involved the carrying of water, 
and she feared lest she might be seen at such ignoble labor. 
Mr. de Butrie a while ago bought a set of shelves from a 
man who had them in his house. As they were dirty, he 
suggested that they must be cleaned before he would receive 
them. The seller said, very well, he would send for a man 



236 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

of San Lucas to clean them. It was only lately that they 
condescended to carry stuff to Teotitlan to sell. In the town- 
house they cherish two much-prized possessions, the titulo 
and mapa of the town. The former is the grant made by 
the Spanish government to this village, in the year 1763. 
It is an excellently preserved document in parchment 
and the old writing is but little faded. As for the mapa, it 
is a strip of native, coarse cotton cloth, seven feet by three 
feet nine inches in size, with a landscape map of the sur- 
rounding country painted upon it in red, yellow, black and 
brown. It is a quaint piece of painting, with mountains 
valleys, streams, caves, trees, houses, churches and vil- 
lages represented on it with fair exactness. It was probably 
painted at the same time that the titulo was given to the 
village. 

The morning after our arrival, we witnessed a quadruple 
Indian wedding in the church at seven. The brides 
were magnificent in the brilliant huipilis, and the godmothers 
were almost as much so, with their fine embroideries. The 
ceremony was much like that at Coixtlahuaca, already 
described. The bride put a silver ring upon the groom's 
finger, and he did the same by her; the priest put money 
into the man's hands, he transferred this to the woman, 
and she to the priest; single chains were hung about the 
neck of each of the party, both men and women; the cover- 
ing sheet or scarf was stretched over all four couples at 
once, covering the heads of the women and the shoulders of 
the men. 

Near the town-house, along the main street, is a series of 
sheds or shacks used as shops, altogether numerically dis- 
proportionate to the population. Great was our surprise to 
find that one of these was kept by a Frenchman, who spoke 
excellent English, and who is married to an English lady. 
They were the only white people living in this great Indian 



HUAUHTLA AND THE MAZATECS 237 

town. Monsieur de Butrie has a coffee plantation in the 
valley a few miles away, at Chichotla, but he finds the cli- 
mate bad for himself and lady. Accordingly, they had 
moved up onto the high land, and it is easy for him, when 
he must give attention to his p,nca, to go to it for the neces- 
sary time. They have some pretty children and are doing 
well. We called at their house, quite like the others of the 
town, and were hospitably received with chocolate and 
sweet English cakes. During our stay, this gentleman 
and his wife did their utmost for our comfort, and gave us 
many interesting bits of information regarding the people, 
their customs and their superstitions. We have elsewhere 
described in detail their witchcraft practices, their belief in 
transformation into tigers, and their ideas regarding the 
destiny and condition of persons after death. 

Just across the way from the town-house, was a large 
house of the usual fashion, which we quickly learned was the 
rendezvous and practice-place of the town band. This con- 
sisted entirely of boys, none of them more than twenty years 
of age, and numbered upwards of thirty pieces. The 
leader was a man of forty, a capital trainer. The daily 
practice began at 4:30 in the morning, and was kept up 
until noon ; then ensued an hour's rest. At one, they were 
again practicing, and no break occurred until long after 
dark. During the days that we were there, a single piece 
only was being practiced. It was our alarm clock in the 
morning, beat time for our work throughout the day, and 
lulled us to sleep when we retired for the night. Senor 
de Butrie insists that during the year and more than he has 
lived in the village, several boys have blown themselves, 
through consumption, into early graves. Our pleasant 
stay at Huauhtla came to an equally pleasant termination. 
Having stated the number of animals and human carriers 
necessary, and the hour at which we wished to start, we 



238 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

found every preparation made on awaking in the morning, 
and at 6:25, after an excellent breakfast with Padre Man- 
zano, we sallied forth. Six human carriers bore our busts 
and baggage, and four capital horses carried us rapidly 
over the good road. It was a magnificent morning, but 
later in the day, as the sun rose, it became hot. We arrived 
at three in the afternoon with our carriers close behind. 
The following morning we forgave the crabbed cochero at 
Teotitlan sufficiently to take his stage coach for San Antonio, 
where we arrived in fifty minutes, having two hours to wait 
before the north-bound train took us towards Puebla. 




r ' 




•fir !^ 




CHAPTER XX 

TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 
(1900) 

T EAVING Puebla on the early morning train, and 
■■— ' taking the Pachuca branch at Ometusco, we 
changed cars at Tepa onto the narrow-guage Hidalgo road 
for Tulancingo, which took us by a winding course through 
a great maguey country. After two hours of riding, in the 
latter part of which we were within sight of a pretty lake- 
let, we reached Tulancingo. Broad avenues, bordered 
with handsome trees, connected the station with the town, 
in the plaza of which we shortly found ourselves. This 
plaza consists of a large square, planted with trees, with an 
open space before it, and is surrounded by various shops 
and the great church. It is pretentious, but desolate. In 
front of the treed space, were temporary booths erected for 
the carnival, in which dukes, aguas frescas, and cascarones 
were offered for sale. Hawkers on the streets were selling 
cascarones, some of which were quite elaborate. The 
simplest were egg-shells, dyed and stained in brilliant 
colors, and filled with bits of cut paper; these were broken 
upon the heads of persons as they passed, setting loose the 
bits of paper which became entangled in the hair and scat- 
tered over the clothing. Some had, pasted over the open 
ends, little conical caps of colored tissue-paper. Others 
consisted of a lyre-shaped frame, with an egg-shell in the 
center of the open part. Some had white birds, single or 
in pairs, hovering over the upper end. The carnival was 
on in full force, and we saw frequent bands of maskers. 

239 



240 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

They went in companies of a dozen or so, dressed like clowns, 
with their clothing spotted and striped with red. Their 
faces were concealed by cloth. They walked rapidly, 
almost ran, through the streets. They spoke to no one, 
and did nothing except to keep up a loud and constant 
trilling of the most ridiculous kind. Packs of youngsters 
chased behind and crowded upon them; they also pelted 
them with stones, and the head of one of the maskers was 
bleeding quite profusely, but he still kept up his headlong 
run and trilling. We had counted upon the assistance of 
the jefe, but found him too dignified to receive us outside 
of ofhce hours, and therefore we arranged the matter of our 
transportation to Huachinango. The price was high, the 
coach inconvenient, and the cochero unaccommodating. 
In vain we tried to have all of our plaster taken in the load 
with us; only one-half could go, the balance must follow 
the succeeding day. Finally, at about ten in the morning, 
we lumbered heavily away, and were soon out of the town, 
passing through a brown, hilly district, at first devoted to 
pulque plantations, but further along becoming fine pasture- 
land. Neat fields, separated by bands of yellow, unplowed 
stubble, and true farm-houses of good size, were striking 
features. We passed through quantities of pine groves, 
and everywhere a cold wind blew strongly in our faces. 
At one place, we were obliged to dismount and walk, on 
account of the sharp descent, and found ourselves upon an 
ugly piece of limestone or sandstone rock, which soon, to 
our surprise, we found replaced by a solid mass of obsidian. 
The cochero, says that the place is known as itzlis — the 
obsidians, the knives. It was 2:30 when we reached 
Aguazotepec, where we called upon the presidente, and 
engaged a mozo, for a peso, to convey our instruments the 
balance of the journey, as we were completely tired out 
with carrying them upon our knees. We also arranged 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 241 

with that official to forward the balance of our stuff to 
Huachinango the following day. We also arranged to pay 
for horses from Aguazotepec to Huachinango. Having 
eaten an excellent dinner, when ready for resuming our 
journey, we discovered, with surprise, that the stage was 
still our conveyance to Venta Colorado, only a league from 
Huachinango. There we were to secure the animals for 
which we had paid, though we were warned that only three 
could be supplied. Manuel and Louis at once tossed 
coins to see which should ride first. Although we had paid 
the full cost of the coach, two other passengers were crowded 
in upon us, and the man, for whom we had paid the peso 
to carry our instruments, ran alongside the coach on foot, 
throwing stones at the mules, while we had again the 
pleasure of carrying the instruments and boxes on our 
knees. The country through which we rode was much 
as before. For some time we passed through a fine pine 
forest; then we made a deep descent into a valley, at the 
bottom of which flowed a large stream, which was bridged 
by a grand old structure of stone and cement. This de- 
scent, and the opposite ascent, we were obliged to make on 
foot, as the approaches were bad. We have been impressed 
strongly with the fact that everywhere in Mexico the worst 
bits of road are those which, in old Spanish days, were 
handsomely and well paved; and which, during the dis- 
turbed period of the early Republic, were neglected and 
allowed to go to decay. It is depressing to see so many 
evidences of past magnificence and present poverty. It 
was almost dusk when, after skirting the edge of a deep 
gorge, we reached a piece of bad road, where the coach 
with difl5culty made its way, with frightful jolts and pitch- 
ings, till we drew up at Venta Colorado. Here the coach 
was finally abandoned. Our animals were packed and 
mounted, and after fussing and quarreling with our ugly 



242 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

cochero as to whether he or we should carry the bulk of our 
baggage, we started. The distance was not great. It was 
down hill, and we had to pick our way with great care over 
the rough road, filled with loosened and separated blocks 
of ancient paving. 

This district, in one respect, reminded us of the Taras- 
can country. Every house along the road was a sales- 
place, where drinks, cigarettes, fruit and bread were offered, 
and each had the little boarded window, open when sales 
were solicited, and closed when business stopped. The 
houses, too, were log structures with shingled four-pitched 
roofs, and the houses in the town were well built, cement- 
walled, with low-sloped, far projecting tile roofs supported 
on trimmed beams. One might as well have been in Patz- 
cuaro, Uruapan, or Chilchota. Again the cochero; we 
had told him that the stuff should go to the jefatura, and 
not to the hotel; he told us with great insolence that the 
jefatura was closed, and that it would be impossible to see 
the jeje and that the stuff would remain at the hotel; he 
followed us, when we went to the jeje^s house, and great 
was his surprise when he found our order efficacious. We 
had a long talk with the jefe, who told us that few indians 
lived in the town, and that none of them were Totonacs; 
he assured us that, though there were no Totonacs in 
Huachinango, we could find them in abundance at Pahuat- 
lan, to which he recommended us to go. The nearest 
Indian town to Huachinango is Chiconcuauhtla, but it is 
Aztec. The next day was spent in town, waiting for our 
other baggage, and for the jeje to arrange our orders and lay 
out our journey. My day of fever was on, and I spent it 
mostly in bed. There were many indians in the market, 
most of whom were Aztecs, though a few were Otomis. 
The men wore dark brown or black cotones; the enaguas of 
the women were wool and were dark blue or black. Many 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 243 

carried on their shoulders carry-pouches, consisting of 
two rectangular frames of sticks, corded together along the 
lower side, and kept from opening too widely, above, by a 
net of cords at the ends. The Indians of Chiconcuauhtla 
are easily recognized by their little flat, round caps. Late 
in the afternoon the bands of maskers, here called the hue- 
huetes, were out. There were a dozen of them, dressed in 
absurd costumes; a bewhiskered Englishman in loud 
clothing, a gentleman, a clown, a lady, etc. These all went, 
by twos, on horseback ; a clown and a devil and a boy with 
a prod, on foot, accompanied them. The duty of the latter, 
who remotely resembled death, was to prod the unhappy 
devil. They were accompanied by noisy crowds the sev- 
eral times they made the rounds of the town, keeping up 
the peculiar trilling, which we had noticed at Tulancingo. 
At dusk, these maskers dismounted and promenaded in 
couples about the plaza. 

Nowhere, as in this region, have we had so much diffi- 
culty with regard to animals. The demands were so exor- 
bitant that we insisted upon the jeje making the arrange- 
ments. He received us in anything but a pleasant mood, 
but acceded, and finally we secured four horses and four 
mules, for which we were to pay for two full days, and a 
foot mozo to whom we also were to pay two full days' wages. 
As the jefe himself had made this arrangement, we consented 
to it, but the man who was outfitting us then demanded 
pay for the mozo who went to bring back the horses and for 
the fodder of the animals. At this, even the jefe balked, 
declaring that he was not in favor of really robbing the 
gentlemen. Paying him the seventeen dollars and twenty- 
five cents, in order that there might be no further discus- 
sion, we started. Just as we left, the man who supplied the 
animals decided that our loads, which before had been so 
large, were really not too large for three mules, which num- 



244 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ber was actually sent with us, though we had paid for four. 
We were ready for starting at seven, but it was ten before 
we left. Meantime, clouds had gathered, and just as we 
started, rain began. There were first several separate 
showers, and then a steady downpour, which lasted almost 
till we reached Pahuatlan. All the blankets had been 
packed away, and we rode through the rain until our clothes 
were drenched through and through. For three hours this 
continued, and it was impossible to see anything of the 
country through which we passed. Finally, however, as 
we reached a great crest, and looked down into the valley 
beyond, the sky was clear and we could see something of 
the scene about us. The descent we were to make, and 
the slope in front, were covered with sugar-cane, broken 
here and there by great patches of pineapples. With each 
plantation of sugar-cane there was a little shelter of poles 
under which was a sap-trough or boiling-tank, while at the 
side of and behind the shelter was a rude mill, the power 
for which was furnished by a yoke of oxen. Boys fed the 
fresh cane between the crushing rollers, and the sap, as it 
ran out, was carried in little troughs to vats. Not at all 
these little shelters was sugar-making in progress, as we 
passed, but over both slopes many columns of smoke indi- 
cated places where, the work was going on. The fire in 
the vat kept the sap boiling, and a man standing near with a 
great ladle, pierced with holes, kept dipping up and pour- 
ing out the hot sap. When we started up the great ascent 
we had no hint of Pahuatlan, and, when we reached the 
summit, could see nothing of it. But hardly had we 
begun the descent before we saw the large and handsome 
town below, but still with a long slope and a sharp ascent 
to be passed, before we could reach it. From the brook- 
side, at the bottom of the valley, almost to the village itself, 
we passed through a dense growth of bananas, which seemed 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 245 

to have suffered some damage, as many were dry and yel- 
low, and individual leaves were curiously tattered and jagged. 
Among them grew other plants, coffee, orange-trees, peaches, 
and cane. When we reached the town, my heart sank; 
a church with handsome dome and modern tower, a 
planted plaza with central fountain, buildings, of two stories 
with gaudy fronts and portales, surrounding three sides of 
the square, augured better for comfort while we were in 
the place, than for work on Totonacs. We rode up to the 
municipio, where we found the presidente, a rather stylish 
young fellow, who was interested in our work and helpful. 
The town controls fourteen thousand persons, and its name 
is derived from that of a large ahuacate, the Aztec name of 
which is pahuatl. The presidente assured us that there 
was no Totonac town, properly speaking, within the limits 
of the municipio. For all this district, Orozco y Berra 
makes many errors. Atla, which he lists as Totonac, is 
really Aztec. The presidente, upon a local map, showed 
us the interesting way in which natural barriers limit 
idioms. Two little streams, coming together at an acute 
angle, may divide three languages — one being spoken in 
the angle and one on either side. In Tlaxco, a small 
village in this municipio, four idioms are spoken — Aztec, 
Otomi, Totonac and Tepehua. 

Two years before, just as my work was ending, we were in 
the great Otomi town of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. 
While resting at midday, I noticed a neatly-dressed and 
clean young Indian, plainly not Otomi, with whom I con- 
versed. He was an Aztec, and much interested in the work 
we were doing. In our conversation, he told me that I would 
find much of interest in the state of Hidalgo, and particu- 
larly called my attention to the making of paper from bark, 
which he had observed in the town of San Gregorio, two 
years before. This particularly interested me, and I then 



246 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

made notes regarding the method of getting to San Grego- 
rio. I was advised by him, in case of going to that place, 
to talk with Don Pablo Leyra, of Huehuetla, who was him- 
self an indian and a man of consequence in the district — a 
sort of cacique among his people. Several years ago, I 
had first learned from Senor Eurosa, a Mexican Protestant 
clergyman, that in the little town of Tlacuilotepec, there 
still survive interesting pagan practices. In planning our 
present journey, I had arranged to visit San Gregorio and 
Tlacuilotepec for the purpose of investigating this manu- 
facture of paper and these pagan customs. Inquiring of 
the presidente of Pahuatlan about his Indians, I asked 
regarding paper- beating, and discovered that it was done 
at the nearest indian village of San Pablito, Otomi. We 
were told that bark of several species of trees was used — 
jonote, dragon, and mulberry; that the paper is usually made 
secretly and in-doors; that the passing traveller can hear the 
sound of light and rapid pounding as he passes through the 
village; that it is made in every house, and the proper season 
is when the sap runs, April to June ; San Pablito is the only 
village in the municipio where it is made. It is used in 
brujeria (witchcraft); other paper can be bought much 
cheaper, but only this kind is serviceable. It is cut 
into munecos; representing human beings and horses and 
other animals, and these are used to work injury to human 
beings and beasts, being buried in front of the house or in 
the corral. The judge, who was sitting by, told us that a 
prisoner brought before him for trial was found to carry 
such a paper figure, which was sewed through the body 
with thread and had its lips sewed also; he learned that 
this figure represented himself, and that the lips were sewed 
to prevent him from pronouncing judgment on the pris- 
oner. They assured me that the nearest point for finding 
Totonacs or Tepehuas, in sufiScient numbers for my pur- 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 247 

pose, was in the district of Tenango del Doria, where, at 
Huehuetla, we would find the largest Tepehua town, and 
that in Pantepec, which is in the district of Hauchinango, 
and near Huehuetla, we would find Totonacs. We had 
had such ill success in locating Totonacs so far, that, at our 
suggestion, they telephoned to the jefe at Tenango inquir- 
ing regarding the populations of Huehuetla and Pantepec, 
with the result that we decided to visit those towns. 

At Tulancingo, we had been snubbed by the jeje, who 
would not treat with us outside of office hours. When 
the presidente of Pahuatlan took us to the house where 
arrangements had been made for our accommodation, we 
found a garrulous, simple-minded, individual who was set 
to clear our room and make our beds. To myself, as leader 
of the company, he was attentive and ceremonious in the 
highest degree, and on several occasions he took my com- 
panions to task for their ignorance regarding the proper 
deference to display toward me. He inquired whether we 
were acquainted with Sefior Arroyo, jeje politico of Tulan- 
cingo, and then informed us, with pride that that gentle- 
man was his ''Sefior Padre." " If so, Senors, you may well 
ask why you see me thus dressed in calzoncillos. For two 
reasons: first, I am not a legitimate son, no, Sefiors, my 
lady mother, who bore me was an Otomi Indian, but I am 
the acknowledged illegitimate son of my honored Senor 
Padre. Second, I had the misfortune to be involved in 
trouble in the district of Del Doria, which forced me to 
flee from that district to escape the je]e. But, sir, my Sefior 
Padre said to me, 'son, I am the jeje politico of Tulancingo 
and the governor of the State is Pedro L. Rodriguez; I 
am his intimate friend, and we shall succeed in ousting 
that jeje in Tenango del Doria who has ordered your arrest.' " 
He also told us of one time, when his Sefior Padre and an 
inspector visited that unfortunate district as an investigat- 



248 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ing committee, and found the jeje guilty and put him in jail 
incomunicado. He also told us of the band of Pahuatlan, 
justly famous, which made so great an impression in one 
town it visited, that it determined to go to Tulancingota 
serenade the jeje of that district, his honored Senor Padre. 
"And I was invited, sir, not that I am a musician or know 
one note from another, but because I am of the family of 
the gentleman who was to be honored, and as a mark of 
distinguished favor to both members of the family. The 
band played so beautifully, that it was not allowed to stop 
until half-past-eleven at night, when it retired in great 
triumph." All this was very interesting, the first time it 
was told us, but the natural son remained while we ate 
supper, and afterwards, following us to our sleeping-room, 
kept up the repetition until two were already in bed and 
asleep and the others wished to be, when, finally, we turned 
him out and locked the door upon him for the night. We 
have stated that we paid for four animals to bring our bag- 
gage hither, while but three were actually employed; the 
animals, both pack and passenger, started on their journey 
for Huachinango at half-past-four in the afternoon, though 
we had paid both beast and man two full days' wages. 

Tlacuilotepec is a dependency of Pahuatlan. We 
started for our day's trip thither on a good lot of animals, 
at eight o'clock in the morning, with two foot mozos for car- 
riers. The journey was delightful. For a little, we fol- 
lowed a trail down the left-hand bank of a fine ravine. 
Nearly at the foot we struck to the left, through a little 
cut, and were surprised to find ourselves upon the right-hand 
slope of another gulf of immense depth. A few minutes- 
later, we reached the point where the two streams united. 
And from there on, for a long time, we followed the bottom 
of a great gorge. The rock walls were bold and often sheer, 
and the upper line of mountain horizon was graceful and 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 249 

varied. The cliffs were mostly limestone, and presented 
remarkable examples of folding and dislocation. The 
long roots of trees, following exposed rock surfaces down- 
ward for yards, and twisting and bending to find lodgment 
in the crevices, were curious. Great tufts of a plant with 
long, narrow, light-green leaves hung down along vertical 
rock faces. In little caverns, at the foot of cliffs, were damp 
spots filled with ferns and broad-leaved caladiums, and 
brilliant clusters of begonias in bloom. At several places, 
the water of springs or underground streams gushed forth, 
in natural rock-basins, or from under projecting ledges. At 
one spot, there was a dainty basin of limestone into which a 
pretty veil of spring water fell gracefully. We crossed 
and recrossed the stream many times. Everywhere we were 
within sound of the creaking sugar-mills, and in sight of 
the ladling of boiled sap; everywhere we met arrieros 
driving animals loaded with little loaves of native sugar; 
everywhere the forest was broken with little patches of 
sugar-cane, growing on the slopes. Here and there, we saw 
cables slung across the streams, for passing cargoes at high 
water. At one place was a fine display of basaltic columns, 
the position of which was horizontal, the flow having come 
up as a sheet injected from below, and not as a surface 
out-flow, where the jointage would have been vertical. 
Finally, leaving this beautiful ravine, we made a rapid 
ascent, passing a little village consisting almost wholly of 
a school, noisy with study, and a church, with a separate 
square tower. Shortly after reaching the summit, and 
dipping slightly, we found Tlacuilotepec. It is not a large 
town. At its center mestizo, it has charge of several Indian 
villages. We had been referred for information concern- 
ing surviving paganism to a Sefior Martinez. We were 
interested in finding that the presidente of the town was 
a brother of this gentleman, and that both were Protestants- 



250 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

We were received with great cordiality, not only on account 
of our official introduction, but also because we brought 
an unofficial introduction from Protestant friends. Two 
charming beds were arranged in the little meeting-place in 
Senor IMartinez's own house, and two others, almost as good, 
were secured for the others of the party, in the Yitthmeson 
of the village. As we chatted, we were refreshed with a 
delicious orange-wine, which is made here, and during 
our days spent with Don Quirino, we had meals fit for a 
king. The Indians under his charge are Otomis, and in 
one little village, Santa Maria, Totonac. When we came to 
inquire regarding the pagan practice for which we were 
searching, we learned that it was peculiar to the Otomis, 
and formed their annual costumhre — custom. They be- 
lieve that Montezuma is to come again. Meantime, from 
him come health, crops, and all good things. Their cos- 
tumhre is a feast given in his honor, of which he is believed 
to partake. A jacal — hut — is prepared in a retired spot; 
a table is constructed full length of the house within, and 
upon this a feast is spread of which all partake. 

Upon this table they place many munecos of paper; 
formerly these were made of the bark paper, but they are 
now made of ordinary paper bought in the stores. There 
may be so many of these that they cover the table an inch 
or two thick. The f casters shove money, usually small 
pieces of silver, beneath these figures. They then kill 
turkeys and bens and chickens, and sprinkle the blood 
■ from the headless bodies over the munecos. This they 
do that Montezuma may be propititated, and give them 
what they desire; the money and the munecos, sprinkled 
with blood, are left upon the table after the feast, the former 
being stolen by passing mestizos. 

The presidente stated that, at the puehlito of Santa Maria, 
where we should go upon the morrow to see some Toto- 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 251 

nacs, they had just celebrated their annual costumbre. He 
said that it might be somewhat similar, as they had sent him a 
headless turkey, as a gift. In the morning, we visited 
this village accompanied by the two brothers. A half 
hour's ride brought us to the spot, from which one gets one 
of the most lovely views in all this picturesque country. 
Standing on the end of a little spur upon which the village 
lies, one sees the handsome river below, which separates 
this municipio from that of Villa Juarez. To the left, rise 
magnificent mountains covered with brilliant green vegeta- 
tion, broken here and there by bare rock faces, from the 
base of which gentle slopes, extending down to the river, 
are covered with little corn-fields. Cuauhtepec, a Totonac 
pueblo, where all are said to dress in white, lies upon this 
stream, and immediately back from it the cultivated fields 
of the village stretch up to the very crest. To the right, 
is seen the little ranch Tanchitla, with its fields, a strip of 
green forest separating these from the fields of the next 
village, Tlapajualla. The stream abounds in fish of various 
kinds, which form an important food supply. They are, 
however, rapidly being destroyed by the practice of explod- 
ing dynamite cartridges in the water, by which not only the 
adult fish, but the young, of all ages, are killed. Unless the 
practice soon ceases, and there are rigid laws against it, 
there will soon be no fish left in any of the streams of this 
whole region. This particular stream bears different 
names in different portions of its course — thus it is called 
Tanchitla, Pahuatlan, San Marcos, Caxones, Xico, etc. 

Having noticed that here, as at Pahuatlan, the banana 
trees were badly injured, we learned that this havoc was the 
result of two recent hail-storms, which were felt over a wide 
area, and which were of almost unexampled severity. By 
the time we had enjoyed the outlook, and learned a little of 
the village, the messenger who had been sent to call the 



r 



252 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

people together had performed his duty, and a picturesque 
group of our long-sought Totonacs were at hand. The 
women wear quichiquemils of native cotton cloth, the neck 
opening of which is over-hemmed with black wool. Lines 
of crosses, rosettes, birds, etc., are worked in various-colored 
wools upon them. Many of them have a broad line of color, 
in geometrical combinations, running vertically up the 
middle. The men wear cotones of black and white. 

Twenty-five or thirty of the more important .men of the 
village were now taken to the school-house, where the 
presidente inquired, for me, in regard to the costumbre. 
At first a little hesitancy was shown, but soon all were inter- 
ested and talked freely. The costumbre comes at about 
the same time each year, though not upon a fixed date. 
Its purpose is to secure health, good weather and crops for 
the coming year, though it may be held on the occasion of 
pestilence. Everyone, even widows and old maids, brings 
something for the feast. The celebration is held in some 
large house, and lasts through two days ; floral decorations 
are arranged in the four comers of the room, candles are 
lighted, and copal is burned. The first day, each person 
brings a handful of earth from his field, which is placed 
in a heap upon the floor. Fowls and animals are slaughtered 
for the occasion; their heads are cut off and their blood is 
sprinkled upon the earth. After feasting and drinking, a. 
dance follows, the dancers wearing crowns and necklaces 
of yellow arnica flowers, and carry in their hands wands 
made of pine-splints wrapped with corn-husks, and with a 
flower of arnica tied to each end. The second day, com on 
the ear and beans are brought instead of earth, and these are 
sprinkled with blood. On both days, blood-sprinkled ma- 
terial is carried home, and the seed and earth are later put 
into the field. In the f easting-room, two paper lantems 
are hung from the ceiling; these are stuck over with gilt 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 253 

and colored paper disks and stars. They represent the 
sun and stars. Upon these lanterns a cross of blood is 
made, at the time when the earth and seed are sprinkled. 
After the dance ends on the second day, children shoot at 
the lanterns with small arrows and try to break them. 
Disappointed that no mention had been made of bark 
paper in connection with this ceremonial, we asked whether 
they ever used it. They answered promptly in the affirma- 
tive. For what? To wrap ocotes. With this, the man 
who told me hastened out and came back with a little 
parcel in his hand. This consisted of twelve little sticks of 
pine about three inches long; they were tied together with 
a band of thread or bark fibre, and were stained with blood ; 
these were wrapped in a piece of green banana leaf, the 
upper face of the leaf being placed inside and the base of the 
leaf kept downward. When it had been thus carefully folded, 
it was carried to the field and buried in a hole, carefully dug, 
so that the top of the package was close to the surface of the 
ground, and the face of the leaf wrapping was directed toward 
the rising sun. To anyone who has studied American indian 
religions, these two costumbres suggest much of interest. 

The young man who had been most interested in our 
proper understanding of the costumhre was anxious that we 
should see the village idols. These are kept concealed, 
apparently in a cave, though it is possible that they are 
buried in the ground. At all events, they exist, and in 
considerable number. A lively discussion ensued as to 
whether it would be proper to show them to us, and it was 
decided that nothing ought to be done until the old woman, 
who is at the head of the pagan practices of the village, should 
be present. It seems that in the costumhre, already described, 
there are four priests or leaders. One of these is the old 
woman just mentioned, and the other three are men. She 
was sent for, and while we waited, we were told that, if we 



254 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

desired to see the lanterns that were used in the last cos- 
tumhre, they were still preserved in the santocalli. Santo- 
calli is a mongrel word — from Spanish santo, saint, and 
the Aztec calli, house. It was a little structure of adobe 
and canes, close to the school-house, and fronting with it 
upon the little plaza of the village. It had a two-pitched 
thatched roof and a single door in the front. After some 
demur, it was opened, and we entered. It consisted of a 
single plain room with two benches made of beams along the 
wall. At the back was a terrible Christ and Virgin, and, 
to the right and behind, another Virgin. These Virgin 
figures were both small and unattractive, and both wore 
quichiquemils. In front of the Christ and larger Virgin 
was a simple altar built against the wall. In the floor, 
directly in front of it, were four small hollows. To the 
right of the altar, a flat stone was set into the floor. In 
front of the altar stood a small table on which were censers 
and candle-sticks. Underneath this table, the space be- 
tween the four legs was occupied by a heap of ashes; in 
front and behind this were ill-defined basin hollows. To 
beams in front of these were hung the almost globular paper 
lanterns already mentioned. When we had seen these 
lanterns, and were about to leave, the old bruja appeared, 
with her female acolyte. She was furious over the dese- 
cration of strangers entering the santocalli, without her 
presence. She was a striking figure; very small, with a 
wrinkled, shrewd and serious, but not unkind, face; her 
white hair was almost concealed by her rebozo, which was 
folded square and laid upon her head with a portion flowing 
behind. The most striking thing was her great devotion, 
and complete unconcern regarding all around her. Enter- 
ing, she hastened to the altar, knelt, — touched her forehead 
to the edge — and in a clear but not loud voice crooned an 
impassioned cry to Christ, to San Jose and to the Virgin. 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 255 

Imperiously turning to her acolyte, she seized the censer 
filled with copal, and, having lighted it, incensed the figures. 
Turning to the presidente, she asked whether he were 
going to placate the saint for invasion by giving aguar- 
diente and candles, both of which appeared, as if by magic, 
when she was given money. Pouring aguardiente from the 
bottle into a glass, she poured into the four basins in the 
ground before the altar, before the Virgin, before and behind 
the heaps of ashes under the table, and then placed it to the 
lips of the Virgin and Christ, lovingly requesting them to 
partake. She then compelled each of the three men priests 
to make the same libation. Taking the unlighted candles, 
she made passes with them, over and across the figures, 
first to one side and then to the other, brushing the wicks 
against them. This, too, had to be done by the three 
assistants, after which the old lady began to make vigorous 
personal use of the bottle of spirits, though she was not 
at all selfish, urging, not only her acolytes, but the presidente^ 
his brother, and the chief guest, to partake. It was too 
late to suggest a visit to the idols, but the curious scene we 
had witnessed gave sufficient food for thought. Hurrying 
back to Tlacuilotepec, we ate a last excellent dinner, which 
had been long waiting, and at three left for Pahautlan. 
Our host, who had been unremitting in his attention, refused 
all money. At certain indian houses which we passed upon 
our homeward way, we saw curious pouches made of arma- 
dillo-shells, hanging upon posts or on the house walls. We 
learned that they were used at planting-time for holding 
seed-corn. When the shell is freshly removed from the 
animal, it is bent into the required shape, and then packed 
full with wet ashes, to make it retain its form in drying. 
Though it was half-past three when we left, the way was 
so cool and delightful that we made the journey in three 
hours. 



256 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

During our day at Pahuatlan, with a guide furnished by 
the presidente, I made the journey on foot to Atla, an 
Aztec town, famous for the Httle cotton sacks with red wool 
patterns, which are almost universally carried by men 
throughout this district. White cotones, with narrow, dark 
stripes and a transverse band of red decoration at each end, 
and white quichiquemils, decorated with brilliant designs 
in red wool, are also made here. Our object was not so 
much to see the village and the garments, as to visit a famous 
witch's cave, situated in the noble pinnacle of rock, plainly 
visible from Pahuatlan. The whole party started out from 
Pahuatlan, but at the bottom of the great slope, I left my 
companions to swim, while the guide and I, crossing a pretty 
covered bridge, scarcely high enough for a man of my 
height wearing a sombrero, went on. It was a long climb to 
the village, but, when we reached there, my mozo with great 
glee called my attention to hrujeria directly at the side of the 
church. In front of the building, to the right of the door 
as one enters, is a hole in the ground, into which a few 
large stones have been clumsily thrown or laid. Here chick- 
ens, flowers, eggs, etc., are buried, in order to secure good 
luck or to restore health. Carefully removing some of the 
stones, we saw ample evidences of such offerings, in bones, 
Jbits of egg-shells, and dried flowers. From here, the climb 
was easy to the crest overlooking the village, and to the 
curious tower-like mass projecting conspicuously from it. 
The cave is situated in tliis mass of rock and faces almost 
east; it is a shallow cavern, well-sheltered and dry, perhaps 
fifty feet wide along the cliff's front, though only the eastern 
third, which is the more completely worn out, is used for 
ceremonies; it is, perhaps, no more than eight or ten feet 
deep, and has greater height than depth. Within the cave 
itself we found a little table, a small chair, and two blocks 
for seats. On either side of the table, a pole was set obliquely 



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The Pagan Priestess and her Acolyte; Santa Maria 



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The Witch's (' \\ i \i Ati.a 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 257 

against the wall. The upper end of the left-hand pole was 
tied with a strip of palm which was looped through a hole in 
the rock wall. At two or three other places, strips of palm 
had been slipped through natural holes in the wall, behind 
bars of stone, and then tied. To the left, were a censer and 
two candle-sticks, behind which, lying obliquely against the 
wall, were twenty-five or thirty dance-wands. These were 
sticks wrapped with corn-husks and tufted with clusters of 
flowers tied about the middle and at each end. The flowers 
used were mostly the yellow death-flower and purple ever- 
lastings. Two or three of them were made with the yellow 
death-flower — cempoalxochil — alone. A few were made of 
xocopa leaves. While only twenty-five or thirty were in 
position, hundreds of old ones lay on the bank to the left. 
Three small crosses of wood were placed near the wands; 
much white paper, clipped and cut into decorated designs, 
was lying about, as also wads of cotton, colored wools, long 
strings of yam, and bits of half-beaten bark fibre. Near 
the front edge of the cave was a hole with large stones; 
here, with a little scratching, we found feathers and bits of 
bone of turkeys and hens, that had been sacrificed, as well 
as splints of pine tied together with bark string. Wooden 
spoons, probably used in the banquets of the witches, were 
stowed away in crevices of the rock. Chains of the yellow 
death-flower were looped up against the waU. It is said 
that the people of the town never enter here, but only 
brujas. Nor is it the exclusive property of the witches of 
Atla, of whom there are but two or three, but those of 
several pueblos make their rendezvous in this cave. In 
fact, from the crest, we could see two other little towns 
that are interested in this cave, though located in another 
valley. 

Don Antonio, at whose house we stayed, told us that San 
Pablito is worse for brujeria than Atla. He says the people 



258 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

of that town make use of munecos of wood, of various sizes. 
For these he makes many little shoes, for which he charges 
five or six reales a pair; at that time he had orders for three 
pairs, and showed us the little forms or lasts he employs, 
and the special leather; they are particular about this, using 
black for shoes for males and red for females. He says 
they also use little hats, serapes, enaguas and quichiquemils, 
for their munecos. Some of these dolls they place on the 
altar in the church, and consider them as sacred, though 
they remove them when they expect the priest. Others 
they take to a lake in the district of Tenango, near San Pablo 
el Grande, and leave them there as offerings. They also 
throw money and other offerings into the lake. 

We started at eight o'clock the following morning, bound 
for Tenango del Doria. For a little time, after leaving Pa- 
huatlan, we mounted, soon finding ourselves at the top of a 
magnificent crest. From here the descent was rapid and 
profound; in front of it rose an equally abrupt slope to an 
even greater height; toward the left this presented a wonder- 
ful knife-edge crest, jagged and toothed astonishingly, 
and on this great slope, below the level where we were, we 
saw San Pablito, prettily located. As it was Sunday, most 
of the people were on their way to market, and we saw many 
Otomis, whose dark color and broad faces reminded us of 
those in the state of Mexico, though they did not present 
so marked a type. The enaguas of the women consisted 
of an upper white strip and a lower striped one, the colors 
in the latter being blue and white, or white with a broad 
band of purplish blue, in which were woven white designs. 
Their quichiquemil was usually rather plain; white with a 
broad band of red, magenta or purple, parallel to the edge. 
It might, however, be decorated with a number of very 
small geometrical, floral, and animal figures, worked in brown, 
purple and blue, which were never so crowded as to destroy 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 259 

the white background. At 9 :3o we reached the school-house 
and called out the teacher, to whom we delivered a letter 
which the presidente of Pahuatlan had given us for him. 
He summoned the town authorities and we made known 
our wish to see some of the bark paper. At first there was 
some hesitancy, but, at last, an old woman produced two 
sheets v/hich, she said, she made the day before. At our 
wish she then brought out the tabla, or board of wood on 
which the beating is done, and the stone for beating. The 
latter was smaller than the ancient beating-stone, and not 
grooved upon the beating surfaces; it had, however, the 
side notches for convenient holding in the hand. The 
board on which the beating is done is smooth, and is con- 
stantly cleaned and soaped. Two kinds of bark are used, 
moral and xalama, the former giving white, the latter a pur- 
plish paper. The bark is thoroughly washed with lye-water 
taken from soaked maize; it is then washed with fresh 
water and thoroughly boiled; it is split into thin strips 
which are carefully arranged upon the board. First the 
border is laid out the size of the sheet to be made; then, 
within this, strips are laid lengthwise, side by side. All 
of this is then beaten with the stone until the sheet of paper 
results. The paper when finished, presents two sides quite 
different from each other; one, smooth and finished, is the 
surface that was below in the beating, while the other, 
rougher, is the one that was beaten with the stone. The 
sheets are dried in the sun, carefully folded into convenient 
size, and done up in packages of a dozen, which are sold 
to the Indians in all the country round about. We secured 
seventeen dozen sheets of this paper, and samples of the 
bark, and the board and stone used in the beating. 

While arrangements were being made for showing us 
these details regarding paper-making, we visited the village 
church, which was very mean and bare; we were disap- 



26o IN INDIAN MEXICO 

pointed to find nothing suspicious in the way of munecos. 
It was suggested that we should visit the oratorio, where we 
found more. Here they held their costumbre in June, or 
thereabouts. Saints were arranged in the back of the room 
on a raised altar; in front of this, running through the 
middle of the room, was a table on which stood censers and 
small candlesticks of rude pottery. Upon the wall, over 
the saints, were decorations of rushes. Here the whole 
village feast and dance. There were no munecos present, 
but we found plenty of cut paper, most of which was prob- 
ably decorative; the most curious was cut into groups of 
human figures, some of which had crowns and horns, or 
tufts of hair, upon the top of their heads. These were said 
to be decorations for Montezuma, in whose honor the feast 
was given. Leaving San Pablo at eleven, we rapidly made 
what remained of the great ascent. As we neared the 
jagged crest of rock, it appeared more irregularly gashed and 
pinnacled than ever. At the crest, leaving the old road, 
which passed directly through the fantastic mass of rocks, 
we reached San Nicolas, from which, on looking backward, 
we gained a magnificent view of the valley and a fine water- 
fall, which shone like a sheet of polished metal, far up the 
mountain side. From here our road descended gently, 
but winding, in and out, through a series of narrow valleys, 
lying between parallel ridges. As we passed the crest, we 
saw a level field of green com, which looked as if we must 
reach it in a few minutes. But the curves of the road 
proved frightfully long. It was after two o'clock before 
we reached the green field, and, just below it, Tenango del 
Doria, and made our way to the jejatura. 

When the jefe came, we found, to our surprise, that he 
was the Don Pablo Leyra of whom Xochihua had told us 
two years before. He is a pure indian, tall, smooth-faced, 
of gentlemanly manner, and with all the reserve character- 




Indians Fishing in Stkkam 




Paganism and Christianity 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 261 

istic of his race. He has lived at Huehuetla since boy- 
hood, forty-four years, till just now, and has but recently 
come to take the position of jeje politico. He has not yet 
moved his family from Huehuetla, and occupies a single 
room in his office-building. He secured us a pleasant 
room, with good beds for the older, and good mattresses 
for the younger, members of our party, in a house near-by 
upon the hill. The jefatura fills one side of the little plaza; 
around the other side are tiendas, with high-pitched single 
roofs, and private houses. The town suffers much from 
nublina, and is cold most of the time. 

We asked Don Pablo about the lake, concerning which 
we had heard. He says it is not as much visited as form- 
erly. While used by Otomis, and others of this district, 
it is most favored by the Huaxtecs, parties of whom go 
there from long distances. They visit it when there is 
drought, for fear that the siren, who lives in it, is annoyed 
at their neglecting to make gifts ; when there is too copious 
rain, they visit it to beg her to desist from sending more, 
and, when crops have been destroyed, to placate her anger. 
Sometimes two or three hundred Indians are in these com- 
panies. They bring munecos of wood, cloth, clay, or even 
metal; such are shod, clad and hatted. They leave these 
upon the shore. They also bring seeds and strew them in 
the water, and some throw money in. They also make 
offerings of turkeys and hens. Sometimes these bands 
spend several days on the shore, dancing and eating. 

We found that Don Pablo had arranged all our plans. 
We were to leave at nine, dine at twelve at San Bartolo, 
leave there at one, and reach Huehuetla between five and 
six. It was really only a quarter-past-nine when we did 
start, and the jeje, himself, saw us on our way. The jour- 
ney was uneventful; the descents were gradual; we saw 
San Bartolo long before we reached it; and, between it 



262 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

and us, there lay a valley, like a narrow gash, down which 
we had to go, and up the other side of which we had to climb. 
We passed Santa Maria, an insignificant town, just before 
reaching the edge of this gully. From there we saw, in the 
mountain ahead, above and behind San Bartolo, a great 
cavern which we believe must belong to witches. Arriving 
at San Bartolo, we found the market in full progress, and 
had ample opportunit}' to see the characteristic dress of 
the women, with the little black, red and purple designs 
embroidered upon the white ground. We were impres- 
sively received at the town-house, for Don Pablo had tele- 
phoned them to be ready. Still, we waited a long time for 
the promised dinner, but at hah-past-one climbed up a 
steep hill, in the rear of the town-house, to the home of the 
prcsidente's father, where a ver}' elaborate meal had been 
prepared, with wine and luxuries. All pa}Tnent was refused, 
and, after we had rested and refreshed ourselves, we left at 
half-past- two. The road was long; it followed the side 
of a great gorge, into which it descended abruptly; in this 
gorge we saw magnificent vegetation. The trees were 
heavily hung with long vines and ferns; parasitic fig trees, 
hugging victims whose life sap they were stealing, were 
abundant. The countr}- was of limestone. On the whole, 
the road was good, but, here and there, were patches where 
we traveled over sharp and jagged out-croppings of rock, 
and near Huehuetla we were forced to make some stiff 
climbs up the cliff sides. Flocks of parrots were numerous, 
especially toward evening. The stream was a handsome 
one, with clear, deep water ; we crossed and recrossed many 
times. The foot-paths rarely crossed, bemg cut sometimes, 
as a narrow trail, in the rock of the cliff. Noticeable were 
numerous silver}^ lines of water falling over the cliff, several 
of which must have been hundreds of feet in height; these 
little threads of water were imipregnated with lime, and 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 263 

deposited material in a sheet upon the bank over which 
they flowed, so that trails of brown tufa marked their loca- 
tion; the lower ends of these deposits expanded into fan- 
like masses of tufa, over which the water trickled, dripped 
or fell. Where there was not sufficient water to produce 
a stream and fall, but enough to keep the tufa moist, the 
growth of ferns, and other delicate vegetation, was brilliant 
and striking. We passed a number of coffee and sugar 
ranches on the road. It was dark long before we reached 
Huehuetla, and had it not been for the moonlis:ht struMing 
through the clouds, we should have had difficulty in travel- 
ing the last portion of the road. At 7:35 we arrived, and 
went at once to the large and handsome house of Don 
Pablo himself, where we were expected, and where an elab- 
orate supper was being made ready. The largest room 
in the house was put at our disposal and good beds and 
cots, beautifully clean and carefully made, were ready. 
Formerly, Don Pablo was the presidente of the town. His 
successor was at the house to meet us, within five minutes 
after our arrival, and took supper with us. It is needless 
to say that in this town we met with no delays in our work. 
To our surprise, we found a fellow countryman, a civil 
engineer named Culin, from Philadelphia, who has done 
and is doing much work for the pueblos of this region. 

Huehuetla is a large town, occupying a long valley 
hemmed in between mountains and bordering a stream. 
The streets are regular, and the view from the hills about, 
looking down upon the well-built houses and the intersect- 
ing streets, is very pretty. The houses have substantial 
walls of stone and mud, and many of them are white-plas- 
tered outside; all have a thick and heavy thatch. The 
plaza lies before the house where we stopped, and, to the 
right, the large church stands on a terrace somewhat above 
the town. A large school building, finer than many of the 



264 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

best in some large cities, was just being finished; its con- 
struction was due to Don Pablo's influence, and it was soon 
to be occupied. Meantime, the children were given instruc- 
tion in the church, and at noon and evening, when their 
lessons were closed, they marched in double file, down 
the flight of steps in front of the church and across the plaza, 
where they separated and made their way home. During 
the time that we were working at this town, when the school 
children filed past, they always removed their hats in the 
most respectful manner. While there are many mestizos 
in the town, it may truly be called an Indian town, the 
largest of those belonging to the Tepehuas. According 
to Orozco y Berra, Tepehua is not related to any other lan- 
guage in Mexico. We have not studied it sufficiently to 
be sure that he is right; it is, however, certain that the lan- 
guage has been much affected by the Totonac, if it is not 
related to it, and many words in the two languages are the 
same. The people of this tribe have a great reputation, 
more or less deserved, for cleanliness; probably it is com- 
parative, contrasting with the neighboring Otomis, rather 
than positive. However that may be, both men and 
women are usually dressed in clean white clothing. The 
enaguas of the women are plain white; their belts have a 
foundation of white cotton, but raised designs of black 
wool are so thickly worked upon them that the white is 
quite inconspicuous. 

The camisas and quichiquemils are generally white, with 
a vertical band of red, and with a few animal figures. 
Women wear many necklaces of bright beads, and braid 
their hair into two braids, which end with tapes of various 
colors, — brown, red, green, maroon, and black. These 
braids are brought together over the head and knotted in 
place. We secured no women for measure until we had 
practically completed the work with men, when they caine 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 265 

with a rush, the whole twenty-five at once, dressed in their 
best clothing, and insisted that the work must be done 
inside the school-house, out of sight, instead of on the street, 
where we had operated on the men. We had no oppor- 
tunity to see any of the popular danzas, in some of which, 
we were told, songs were sung in the Tepehua language, 
but we did see examples of the little teponastls, or drums, 
used on these occasions; they are made from a round block, 
perhaps ten inches long and three inches in diameter; 
these are hollowed out below, so that two thin lips only are 
left above, which, when struck, give out far more musical 
tones than one might expect. The two nights that we were 
at Huehuetla, we saw men and women fishing in the stream; 
carrying blazing torches in their left hands, they waded 
out into the water and watched to see the dark bodies of 
the fish against the pebbly bottom of the stream; in the 
right hand they carried a machete, about a foot in length, 
with which they stabbed the fish, rarely missing. 

We were now ready for the last tribe of the season, the 
Totonacs of Pantepec. Pantepec is in the district of 
Huachinango, and we had no order from the jeje; Don 
Valentino, the presidente of Huehuetla, said, however, 
that the presidente of Pantepec was his friend, and that he 
would give us a letter of introduction, which would serve 
all purposes. As we were to return by Huehuetla, we left 
the busts which we had made, and all but our most neces- 
sary baggage, at Don Pablo's house. Though we started 
at ten, we took the journey slowly, photographing and 
hunting birds. The road was a trail in a ravine, with all 
the beautiful scenery with which we now were so familiar. 
At one point we saw a curious phenomenon. The cliff rose 
vertically from the water's edge, at a place where the stream 
made a right angle; this cliff consisted of almost horizontal 
strata of varying hardness, so that some of the layers were 



266 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

worn a little more than others, leaving these projecting. 
In the space between these projecting layers, round river- 
pebbles, from the size of hen's eggs up to the size of a man's 
fist, were firmly wedged, so that it was with difficulty that 
they could be dislodged. Not a few, but hundreds of the 
pebbles, were thus wedged, so regularly and firmly that 
we could not believe the work to be that of nature, but sus- 
pected human hands. We learned, however, that nature 
really had done the work, on the occasion of a flood, the 
result of a cloud-burst, which swept into the valley two or 
three years before. At several places in this stream, we 
saw groups of from two or three to ten or twelve Totonac 
Indians, who were fishing with little nets. Our trail led 
back and forth across this stream many times, and before 
we reached Pantepec we had made thirty-nine crossings. 
From our last crossing, we climbed a steep ascent, passing 
the little village of Tenasco, and found ourselves at Pan- 
tepec. We rode at once to the town-house, and were told 
that the presidente was sleeping; we went then to his house, 
where we were informed that he could not be disturbed. 
We left word that we must see him as soon as possible, 
and that he would find us at the municipio. Nearly three 
hours passed before he put in his appearance. Inasmuch 
as we had seen this man's y'e/e, and he knew our errand, we 
told the secretario to send a message for us to him at Hua- 
chinango. We carefully wrote out the message for for- 
warding, in which we told the jeje, that we had waited three 
hours for attention from the town officials, and asked how 
much longer we should put up with delay. We never 
heard his answer, but in less than ten minutes, the presi- 
dente, covered with perspiration, was waiting for our orders 
and every policeman or the force was ready for our bidding. 
The message he received from the jefe must have been 
vigorous, for not only was everything done for our com- 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 267 

fort, but work was rushed. During the next day we meas- 
ured ninety-eight men, photographed twelve subjects, and 
made moulds for all our five busts — an unparalleled day's 
labor. We were fortunate in one respect — that the men 
had been summoned that day for public labor. So far 
as men v^rere concerned, they gave no difficulty as subjects. 
With the women it was different, and full half a day was 
taken in getting together our twenty-five types; not but 
what there were plenty of them, for our second day at Pan- 
tepec was market-day, and the plaza was gay with women, 
but they did not wish to be measured, and the whole town 
force, from presidente to the meanest topil, was afraid to 
meddle with them; at first, too, we had none but the 
most wretched cases, women broken down and worn out 
with years of labor. When nearly half our number had 
passed through our hands, and all presented this same 
unsatisfactory type, we were forced to make a sharp remon- 
strance, and only so did we get fair samples of young and 
middle-aged women. 

At Pan tepee the centre of the town is mestizo; the Indians 
consist of Otomis, of whom there are thirty households, 
and Totonacs forming the bulk of the population. It is 
easy to distinguish the women of the two tribes by the 
difference in dress. The quichiquemils are particularly 
picturesque. Both are more heavily loaded with embroidery 
than any Indian garments we had ever seen, but the styles 
of the two decorations are completely different. The 
quichiquemils of the Otomis are smaller and completely 
covered with red and black embroidery; those of the Toto- 
nacs are much larger, and portions of the white foundations 
may still be seen, notwithstanding the heavy patterns in 
brilliant colors — red, green, yellow and blue. Mothers put 
babies onto one side, with their little legs astride a hip, 
and then tie them firmly in place with an ayate, or carry- 



268 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

cloth, of cotton, thus leaving their hands free for work 
or other burdens. If we had difficulty measuring the 
Totonac women, we had still greater difficulty in photo- 
graphing satisfactory groups of them. Neither pleadings 
nor bribes on our part, orders nor threats on the part of the 
officials, had much influence. 

Pan tepee is a large town, situated near the edge of the 
great mountain mass, and looking across a valley, which is 
backed by what appears to be a flat-topped, straight-edged, 
table mountain. The houses of the town are scattered over 
a considerable area upon the slope. The walls are of poles, 
heavily daubed with mud which is neatly and smoothly laid 
on. The corners of this mud covering are rounded, instead 
of angular, as usual elsewhere. The thatch is heavy and firm, 
and squarely cut along its lower edge, where it projects far 
beyond the walls. The plaza is above the town-house, and is 
extremely ugly; a kiosk, which certainly can lay no claim to 
beauty, stands in the centre; ugly shacks, used as tiendas, 
border a part of it along the main road. Striking, at this time, 
in the village were the colorin trees, some of which occurred 
in almost every enclosure; they were in bloom, and had long, 
slender, flaming-red, cigarette-shaped flowers, which ap- 
peared before the leaves, from trunks that were gnarled and 
brown and almost branchless. Many popular danzas are cele- 
brated here, but none was taking place during our stay. San 
Gregorio, the town of paper-making, is not far from Pante- 
pec, and large quantities of the bark paper are beaten in 
the little village of Ixcoyotla, which belongs to this municipio. 
Asking an old Otomi whether he knew about this paper, he 
answered us, with great cunning, that we probably knew 
as much of it as he did. He finally condescended to state 
that the munecos of it were used in curing disease; that 
anyone who has a disease secures one of these munecos and 
applies it to the diseased part. The presidente insisted 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 269 

that this paper was not made from jonote, but from uli, 
and that formerly it was much used in making strong and 
durable belts. 

In starting back the next morning, we went down a dif- 
ferent slope from the one by which we had come, with the 
result that we had to cross the stream five times more than 
before, making the full forty-four crossings, of which we 
had been warned by Culin while we were at Huehuetla. 
We made our way leisurely, stopped when we pleased, and 
at one point noticed a cave, which we had not seen before, 
just across the stream, at a point where it was at its deepest. 
The cave was so near the water's edge, that it could only 
be approached from the stream. The boys swam across 
and entered it to see if perchance they might find some of 
the paper figures used in brujeria. They found little of 
interest within; the walls and rocks were marked with 
crosses, and on the floor were hundreds of little sticks cut 
to various lengths. We were glad, indeed, to reach Don 
Pablo's house, to eat his good supper, and to occupy his 
good beds. Before we went to bed, Dona Panchita sug- 
gested that we ought to see certain munecos kept by a man 
named Diego, and used as idols by the village. Accordingly, 
she sent orders that the man should bring his munecos to 
the house for us to see. To this request, he returned the 
proper reply, that he would not do so; that they would be 
offended ; that they were not toys to be carried about at the 
nod and beck of everyone. This greatly increased our 
interest, and we arranged for a trip to his house. We first 
sent a messenger forward, with word that we were coming, 
and ordered him to stay there to see that Diego did not 
run away or hide the idols. After supper, Dofia Panchita, 
our company, Mr. and Mrs. Culin, and one or two others, 
picked our way by moonlight across the stepping-stones and 
foot-bridge, up a trail by coffee groves along a purling 



270 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

brook-side. We were soon at the house, and after some 
hesitation, Diego led us to the Holy of Holies. The munecos 
were kept in a little house, which contained an altar built 
of boards, with fresh flowers for decoration. At the back 
of the altar, against the wall, were prints of Christian 
saints; on the altar were censers and an open bundle of 
copal. Two wooden boxes were at the right end of the altar, 
against the wall. These contained munecos which, for some 
time, Diego hesitated to produce. Finally he took out an 
idol of rather fine-grained, brownish-gray stone; the head 
was large and infantile, with the Mongolian cast of counte- 
nance; its badly shaped and scrawny arms were raised so 
as to bring the hands together on the chest; the body was 
shapeless. This figure was clad in a suit of unbleached 
cotton, much too long and slender for it, and the arms of 
the camisa, and the legs of the calzones hung limp. When 
we had duly admired this figure, a second was produced — 
a pottery female-head, fairly shaped, with no body to speak 
of; this had glass earrings fastened in the ears. Next, a 
small headless figure was brought out; it was old, though 
probably made after the Conquest, and we agreed that it 
represented a pctdre. Next was a simple pottery head. 
Last was a figure, with small head and pointed cap, made 
apparently of pottery; the body had been pieced out to 
disproportionate length with wood, and ended in a pair of 
wooden feet; this was dressed in black velvet, and wore 
a black hat. These, Diego asserted, were all he had. After 
having expressed our delight with them, and our regret 
that we had not known what we were to see, that we might 
have brought with us some fine white copal as incense for 
these gods, we set them up in a straight line on the edge of 
the altar to make a flashlight picture. As we left, we gave 
Diego two reales to spend for the benefit of his gods. After 
we left, we were assured that he had finer ones of black 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 271 

stone, which he dresses in red, but we were content with 
the ones we had seen. These figures are particularly used 
on September i6th, San Miguel's day. They are also used 
at sowing-time, at harvest, and at the first cutting of sugar- 
cane. On these occasions, incense and candles are burned, 
the idols are taken in the hands, and to the sound of music, 
worshippers move the figures, causing them to dance. 
Pleased with this, they give good rains to the faithful wor- 
shippers. When there is too much rain, they go in pro- 
cession to the river, playing music and dancing dolls; 
when arrived, they peg douTi many ayates and sacks, 
made for the purpose, into the water against the flow. 
These are dams, to stay the flood. On the other hand, 
when there is drought, a procession carries the idols to a 
cave, where a feast is given and a dance, with wands of 
flowers carried in the hands, indulged in. 

Though the price for animals from Huehuetla to Las 
Tortugas was exorbitant, we had agreed to pay it — but 
told the man that, if he left later than six, it should be cut 
two dollars. It was long after eight before they appeared, 
and then it was only our own animals that were ready. 
We were forced to leave the packing to be done by the man 
himself without direction; we ourselves hurried along the 
trail, hardly stopping at San Bartolo on the way, arriving 
at Tenango at 4:15. Our animals were fagged, and we 
were soaked to the skin, having travelled through nublina 
most of the afternoon. Don Pablo received us with his 
usual courtesy, and had arranged for us to sleep at the same 
house, where we had been before. At bed -time, our man 
with the mules had not appeared, and we had received most 
contradictory and discouraging statements regarding him. 
He had started at nine with two mules and left half our 
stuff for another day; he had been seen at the river near 
San Bartolo with two mules heavily loaded, unable to 



272 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

proceed; he had concluded to stop at San Bartolo for the 
night, to push on to Tenango the next day, and reach Las 
Tortugas on the third. Dissatisfied and uncertain, we went 
to bed; still, we determined to leave at five, and so gave 
orders to our mozo. We rose at 4:15 and the horses were 
ready before five. Contradictory stories were again told us 
regarding our animals. Some said the man had passed 
with them at five o'clock; others that he had not yet come; 
others that he had spent the night at Santa Maria. Our 
foot mozo did not come, and sending the rest ahead, I waited 
for him. Hardly had they started, when Ramon galloped 
back to announce that the man was in town, that he had 
three animals and was nearly ready to leave. As he, him- 
self, had told us that he must leave Tenango at three in 
order to reach Las Tortugas in time for the train, this was 
not reassuring. Ramon hastened on with the party. At 
six the mozo appeared and started at once. In a few min- 
utes we passed our arriero who was packing, but not ready 
to start. I urged him to hasten, but did not wait. Mist 
had settled during the night, but it was now rising, and we 
could see the scenery, which, in wildness and beauty, was 
almost the equal of anything in Mexico, though with a charac- 
ter quite its own. Our trail ran along the side of a preci- 
pice; to our left rose great cliffs presenting almost vertical 
faces of smooth rock; the summits were jagged, and sug- 
gested that the mass consisted of stratified rocks tilted up 
on end. Just as we left town, two narrow and lofty parallel 
rocks suggested a gate- way. Further down, a mass was 
worn out into a sharp column, a little separated from the 
rock mass behind. On the right, was the precipice, ever 
abrupt, and sometimes the almost vertical bank of a yawning 
chasm. After an hour and a half over the fairly good road, 
we came to a grand ascent. It was magnificent, though 
difficult. In some spots the road was muddy, and at others 



TEPEHUAS AND TOTONACS 273 

it was a series of rough stone steps; at still others, it was the 
unmodified bed of a mountain torrent. As we followed 
up this gorge, side-gorges joined it, in which we glimpsed 
pretty cascades, pits worn by little falls, trees, the trunks 
of which were covered with thick sheets of green moss, 
quantities of tree-ferns blighted by the late frost, cliffs, and 
wild forms of rock, in wonderful variety. At last I reached 
the summit and overtook Manuel, whose horse was com- 
pletely fagged, and who had been forced to drop behind; 
for some time we saw the others before us, but somewhere 
they took a different trail, and we saw them no more. After 
a considerable descent, we made our final but easy rise. 
From here we were on a level road, which constantly im- 
proved until near Mepetec, while beyond it, we came to a true 
cart-road. From here a fine view presented itself, over a forest 
of pine trees to the clean brown plain so typical of Hidalgo, 
swept, as we soon found, by the equally typical Hidalgo 
wind. We rode rapidly from the herreria of the Trinidad 
to Metepec, and then to Las Tortugas, where we arrived at 
1 1 40, having been five hours and a half upon the road. To 
our surprise, Louis and Ramon were not there. Having 
waited some time, as it was almost the hour for the train, we 
ordered dinner for two, but before we had begun to eat the 
others appeared. They had taken a short road, which 
did not go by Metepec, and travelled slowly that we might 
overtake them. After a good meal, we waited for our man 
with the pack animals. Meantime the train was preparing, 
and we watched it, realizing that if we missed it, we had a day 
of dust and scorching sun and heavy wind before us. The 
train's crew made all ready, the cry of " Vamonos'' was given, 
and we settled down in desperation to await our tardy man. 
An hour after the train left, he arrived, received his fee less 
the two dollars, and started homeward. Twenty-three hours 
later we took the train, and our season's work was done. 



CHAPTER XXI 

IN THE HUAXTECA 
(1901) 

THE scenery on the Tampico branch was at its best, 
as there had been recent rains, and everything was 
fresh and green. At Tampico, we resisted the attractions 
of the hotels "where Americans always stop," and went 
to the unpretentious Pan Cardo. Here we were comfort- 
ably located, and early the next morning tried to define our 
plans. We were in uncertainty as to what towns we should 
visit in order to examine the Huaxtecs. The ancient Huax- 
tecs were among the most interesting of Mexican tribes. 
They are a northern offshoot of that great family, of which 
the Maya of Yucatan is the type. The linguistic relation- 
ship is evident upon the most careless comparison. The 
ancient area occupied by the Huaxtecs was near the Gulf 
of Mexico, and on both sides of the Panuco River, near the 
mouth of which some of their important centres were 
located. To-day Mexicans divide the Huaxteca into two 
parts, — the Huaxteca Veracruzana and the Huaxteca 
Potosina — the former in the state of Vera Cruz, the latter 
m the state of San Luis Potosi. At first, we thought to visit 
the latter, but the difficulty of reaching it was presented so 
forcibly, and the ease of reaching the Huaxteca Vera- 
cruzana so emphasized, that we determined upon the latter, 
and selected the town of Ozuluama for our central point. 
We could go by canoes across the river to Pueblo Viejo, 
where we could secure horses for the further journey. We 

were led to believe that it would be easy to make the trip 

274 



IN THE HUAXTECA 275 

in a single day. We had arranged for a canoe over night. 
It belonged in Pueblo Viejo, and it was to come over early 
in the morning; we were at the wharf at six, ready to start, 
but no canoe was in sight. Not only so, but a norther was 
blowing, and comforters, lounging on the wharf assured us 
that no canoe would come from Pueblo Viejo until the storm 
ceased, which would not be for twenty-four hours. We 
were loath to believe this information, and brought all 
our baggage from the various storing-places, where we had 
left it, out onto the wharf. Time passed; the norther 
continued, and no canoe from Pueblo Viejo came. Think- 
ing that it might be possible to secure a canoe from here 
to Pueblo Viejo, we dickered with a boatman at the wharf. 
W^e had agreed to pay for the canoe ordered $1.00 for the 
journey, which was something more than the regular price. 
The man with whom we now were talking declared that 
he would not take us across for less than $3.50. We were 
on the point of yielding to necessity, when a rival appeared 
and ofifered to do the work for $2.50. Such is human per- 
versity that we now insisted that he must go for $2.00, 
which he finally agreed to do. Hurrying away to get his 
canoe, he soon appeared, and our hearts sank. The man 
who had demanded $3.50 had a large, well-built boat, 
which should stand any wind and water. The man whom 
we had engaged had a canoe so narrow, low, and small 
that we doubted his ability to perform his contract; how- 
ever, he assured us that all would be well, and showed 
himself so skilful in packing our stuff into his boat, that we 
ourselves embarked, and started down the little lagoon in 
his canoe. So long as we remained in this narrow, sheltered 
stream, all was well; but when he poled from its mouth out 
to the open river, we found it a different matter. More 
than this, we saw two or three canoes dancing over the 
white caps, and managed with great difficulty, although not 



276 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

loaded. The courage of our boatman was a little dashed; 
he susrofested that we leave Ramon, Louis, and Manuel on 
an old scow standing on the bank and fast going to ruin, 
while he poled myself and the luggage over, after which he 
would return for my companions. This seemed good sense, 
and the boys were left behind. It was interesting to see 
the skill with which the man handled our rather awkward 
craft, loaded at it was almost to the water's edge. He had 
no motive power but his long pole. We did not ship a 
single drop of water, and at last entered the quiet, broad, 
canal-like lagoon on the other side of the river. A moment 
more, and we were unloading our luggage onto the shore. 
To do this, we were forced to wade through mud up to the 
knees. But at last all was safe, and with his empt>' canoe, 
our boatman started merrily back for his other passengers. 
When they arrived, only a few minutes were necessary for 
reloading the canoe, and we started up the lagoon. Little 
side lagoons opened frequently into tlie one through which 
we passed. At their mouths were V-shaped weirs of stakes, 
driven into the bottom and watded together with flexible 
twigs. These were open at the mouth, and in the openings 
were set dip-nets, which could be lowered into the water. 
Just now, with the hea\y norther blowing, thousands of 
camaron (shrimps) were driven into the nets, and at each 
one we saw fishermen busily occupied. The lagoon 
abounded in water-birds of many kinds, and hardly had 
we entered it, when Louis shot a prett\', small white heron. 
Believing that the o\s-ner of animals to whom we had 
been referred was demanding too high a price for his horses 
and mules, we decided to see what the town authorities 
would do for us, and went to the munkipw. The presi- 
dente told us, with delight, that the ]eje politko of Ozu- 
luama was there with his family, rusticating, and at once 
summoned him to meet us. He was a gentlemanly fellow, 



IN THE HUAXTECA 277 

who told us that the price demanded was regular, but ad- 
vised us to travel in a different way. ''Here," he said, "you 
can get a large canoe; starting now, you can travel all 
night; reaching La Llave in the early morning, you can get 
horses and go the seven leagues remaining comfortably. 
Take a little something to eat before you start, and carry 
something for the way." This seemed an opportunity 
for a new experience, and, though the price was little, if 
any, less than we were asked to pay for animals, we decided 
to try it. Arrangements were begun at once, breakfast 
ordered, and a light lunch prepared for carrying. Mean- 
time, the jeje told us that there were few indians in Ozu 
luama, but that in Citlaltepec we would find abundance. 
He gave us orders to his secreiario, who represented him dur- 
ing his absence, and bade us god-speed. We left at one 
o'clock, in a great canoe, a heavy, timber-framed boat, 
propelled by long poles, by oars in quiet and deep water, 
and by a clumsy sail. A framework of poles, covered with 
matting, roofed over the middle of the boat, and a piece of 
matting was spread upon the floor. Hanging blankets 
to shelter ourselves from the heavy wind yet blowing, we 
busied ourselves variously, the boys skinning birds which 
they had shot, and I making up my various notes. The 
lagoon which we now entered was a large stretch of open 
water. We raised our sail, and made easy work. Having 
crossed the large lagoon, we entered the mouth of what 
probably would be considered a fair-sized river, which at 
first was closely bordered by a tangle of trees and vines, and 
presented a truly tropical appearance. Palms were abun 
dant, and, here and there, one of unusual size towered high 
above the rest. The other trees were densely hung with 
long gray moss. Now and then, we disturbed alligators 
along the banks, and we were told that snakes were abun- 
dant in the grass. The quantity of water-birds was aston- 



278 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ishing — great and small white herons, large blue herons, 
little blue herons, the curious, dark wry-necks, and ducks 
by thousands. The positions and attitudes of these long- 
necked and long-legged birds, in the water and on the trees, 
were curious and striking. The boys kept busy shooting 
and skinning birds all the afternoon. In the evening, the men 
built a fire with charcoal in a tin-lined box in the end of the 
canoe, and toasted tortillas and made coffee. The awning 
was scarcely large enough to cover the whole party com- 
fortably, when we lay down to sleep, but we wrapped up in 
blankets and spread mats for beds. We suffered intensely 
with the cold, sleeping little. At five o'clock our boat 
came to a stop along the bank, and at six it was light enough 
to disembark and explore. Climbing up a little bank of 
clay, we found ourselves on a flat meadow, covered with 
grass and weeds, through which narrow trails ran to a few 
scattered palm.-thatched huts. With a letter from the 
jefe, we called at Seiiora Mora's house. This lady was a 
widow, whose husband had but lately died; she was well 
to do, and promised to supply us with animals after we 
should have had our breakfast. This was long preparing, 
but at last good coffee, fine enchiladas and cheese were 
served, and, after eating heartily, we found six animals 
ready for us. When we asked for our account, the good 
lady replied that the bill was $2.00. It was plain that she 
had made no charge for either breakfast or animals, but only 
something for the boys whom she sent along to bring back 
the beasts. At about eleven, we started on what was called 
seven leagues, but what was certainly the longest nine 
leagues we had travelled for a long time. We had excellent 
horses that kept up a steady jog. Still, it was after five 
when we reached Ozuluama. The journey was for the 
most part over a llano, thicket-covered and sprinkled, here 
and there, with groves of palm; the soil was dark clay, 



IN THE HUAXTECA 279 

which in spots, wet by recent rains, was hard travelling 
for the animals. We caught sight of the town, prettily 
located upon a hill-slope, about an hour before we reached 
it. From it, we looked out over an extensive stretch of 
dark green plains, broken, here and there, by little wooded 
hillocks, none of them so large as that upon which Ozu- 
luama itself is situated. Riding to the town-house, the 
secretario was at once sent for. He ordered supper, and 
put a comfortable room, behind the office, at our disposal. 
On the back porch, just at our door, was chained a tiger-cat. 
It belonged to the jeje, and was a favorite with his little 
children, but since they had been gone, it had been teased 
until it had developed an ugly disposition. It was a beau- 
tiful little creature, graceful in form and elegantly spotted. 
But it snarled and strove to get at everyone who came near 
it. The secretario at once told us that Citlaltepec was 
not the point we ought to aim for, as it was purely Aztec; 
our best plan was to go to Tamalin, where we would find 
one congregation of Huaxtecs. From there, if we needed 
further subjects, we might go to Tancoco, although it did 
not belong to this district, but to that of Tuxpan. In the 
course of our conversation, I was reminded that Ozuluama 
is the home of Alejandro Marcelo, a full-blooded Huaxtec, 
who once published a book upon the Huaxtec language. 
Expressing an interest in meeting this man, he was sent 
for. He is far older than I had realized, celebrating his 
74th birthday that very week. He was a man of unusual 
intelligence and most gentle manner. At nine o'clock 
next morning, supplied with new animals, we started for 
Tamalin, said to be thirteen leagues distant. We were well 
mounted, and the journey was much like that of the preced- 
ing day. For three hours we were impressed with the lone- 
liness of the road; no people were to be seen anywhere. 
Here and there, set far back from the road, were country 



a8o IN INDIAN MEXICO 

houses. The road itself was an extremely wide one, cut 
through a woods, which consisted for the most part of low 
and scrubby trees, with scattered clumps of palm trees 
here and there. Usually the trail was single, but where 
we came on mud patches, many little trails were distributed 
over the whole breadth of the road. Here and there, where 
there were particularly bad spots, into which our horses 
would have sunk knee-deep, we were forced to take trails 
back among the trees. While the earlier part of the 
journey was through rolling country, we came at noon into 
a true plain, though wooded. We found many cross- 
roads, broad and straight, cut through the woods, and were 
impressed by the great number of dry barrancas into which 
we had to descend, and out of which we had to climb- 
Most of these were actually dry, but many of them con- 
tained a dirty pool of stagnant water. At many places, 
the road was bordered with plants, the leaves of which 
somewhat resembled those of the pineapple. They were 
light green in color, narrow and long-pointed at the upper 
end, and spiny along the sides. This plant, named gua- 
mara, bears spikes of yellow fruits which are pointed at the 
upper end, but in color, size, texture, structure and taste 
reminded us of podophyllum, though it leaves a prickly 
sensation in the mouth, much like that produced by fresh 
pineapples. There were also many trees bearing little 
limes or lemons, of which we gathered abundance for mak 
ing lemonade. At two o'clock our man pointed out a. 
ranch-house near the road, in front of which two men sat 
eating, and told us we could procure food and drink there 
if we wished, and that we had plenty of time for stopping. 
We found the men at the table to be the parish priest of 
Tantima and his servant. The priest informed us that 
Tamalin was three and three-fourths leagues away, while 
Tantima was four. The road for the greater part of the 



IN THE HUAXTECA 281 



distance to the two places was the same. We had an inter- 
esting conversation with the good priest, and for the first 
time we met the curious prejudice, which exists throughout 
this portion of the Huaxteca, against the Huaxtecs, and in 
favor of the Aztecs. We were kept waiting some little time 
for our dinner, but by three o'clock were again upon our 
way. Just as we started, we crossed the first true stream 
which we had met, but during the balance of the journey 
we crossed one or two others. Soon, leaving the main 
road, we bore off to the left, and found several bad spots 
of stiff black mud, into which our poor animals sank fright- 
fully. After five o'clock we saw, from the slope on which 
we were, for we had left the llano and were again in rolling 
country, a little village, and higher and further to the left, 
a second. The first of these was Gutierrez Zamora, which 
is Huaxtec, with a few Mexican families living at one side; 
the second was our destination, Tamalin. We passed 
through Gutierrez at six, and reached Tamalin at seven. 

The alcalde of the village was not there; in fact, we 
suspect that he but rarely is. The secretario, likewise, was 
absent. We finally prevailed upon his brother to help us to 
find an Indian girl to cook our meals, and a room in the 
secretario' s house. In this room there was but a single bed, 
and our helper thought me very particular in demanding 
that petates should be brought as beds for my companions. 
He assured us that, when he traveled, he slept upon the 
floor, without petates. It was long after 10 o'clock before we 
had supper and secured a resting-place. We had planned 
to push out from here the following morning; no sign, 
however, of our baggage had appeared, and we were forced to 
spend two days at Tamalin waiting for its coming. Here, 
too, we found that there were no Huaxtecs, the town being, 
so far as it was Indian, purely Aztec. We decided, there- 
fore, to try Tancoco, returning, if need be, to Gutierrez. 



282 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Both Gutierrez and Tancoco were in the district of Tuxpan. 
Fortunately, we still carried our last year's letter from the 
governor of Vera Cruz to serve us with the local authorities, 
as it would be most inconvenient to go to Tuxpan for orders. 
Seeing that it was impossible to leave that day, I walked in 
the afternoon to Tantima to visit the priest. Between the 
two towns rises a fine, high rock hill. The ascent from 
Tamalin was in three slopes, with short levels between; 
the crest was but a few yards wide; the descent to Tantima 
was abrupt and short. From the summit we looked down 
upon the pretty, level, enclosed valley occupied by a rather 
regular town, built about a large plaza which, the day being 
a market day, was gay with booths and people. I met 
almost the whole population of Tamalin on my way over, as 
they returned from market. All the men were drunk; 
some were so helpless that they sprawled upon the road, 
while others were being helped by their more sober com- 
rades. I reached the plaza just thirty-seven minutes after 
leaving Tamalin, and at once telegraphed to Ozuluama 
about the baggage. When I inquired for the priest's 
house, the telegraph operator informed me that the padre 
had told him all about us and our errand and that he would 
accompany me to the curato. Crossing the square, we 
found the padre living in a comfortable place, close by 
the great, pretentious, stone church. We were warmly 
welcomed, and orders were at once given for cofifee. The 
Aztec servant hastened to bring some, piping hot, and was 
quite abashed at being sharply reproved for offering it 
directly to me. No, indeed, a gentlemen so distinguished 
was not to be thus served; the table was moved up before 
my chair, a clean cloth spread, sweet cakes were sent for, a 
glass of fresh milk placed, and then the coffee was set upon 
the table. Thus, in solitary grandeur, I sat and ate and 
drank, while the priest and operator took their cups of coffee 



IN THE HUAXTECA 283 

in their hands. Though we had ordered horses for the 
following morning, the baggage had not come, and we 
waited all the day. Strolling around the village, we found 
it a pretty place, through which ran a fine stream, 
separating the houses into groups or clusters. It is a 
true Aztec town, and the houses are well-constructed. 
Several houses are set irregularly within a single enclosure; 
the walls are built of poles set upright, but these are so 
heavily daubed with a mixture of mud and chopped straw 
that they are strong and durable. In applying this daub, 
the hand is used, and a simple block of wood of rectangular 
form, with a projecting edge extending midway of the upper 
side, is used as a trowel for spreading it, and giving it a 
smooth finish. The thatchings are thick, and project far 
beyond the walls; they are of palm, and neatly cut at the 
edges; a cresting, thin, but evenly placed and firmly pegged 
down, projects over the ridge, down either slope, and its 
edges form the only break in the smooth surface. Many 
of the houses had temascals, differing considerably from 
those of Puebla and Tlaxcala. They are rectangular; the 
walls are built of poles, set upright, close together, and 
strengthened by being lashed to a horizontal timber set 
midway of their height. The roof is a round vault or arch of 
poles set lengthwise. The whole is neatly plastered over 
with a mixture of mud and chopped straw, and in the front 
a cross is worked in the clay mixture, to insure good fortune. 
The women here wove cotton in the usual Indian fashion, but 
few wore the old dress, and those few were mostly aged. 
We noticed quantities of pottery here, and throughout the 
Huaxteca, but none of it is local in manufacture. Most of 
it has come from the two towns, Huejutla, an Aztec town, 
and Panuco. We were forced to spend a third night at 
Tamalin. The secretario had been at home for two days 
and had fairly done his duty; still, our animals were late when 



284 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

we were ready to start the following morning, and we were 
not off until 9 :30. It was a steady climb, over a long series 
of ascents, until we reached a crest from which Tancoco 
could be seen. We made a long descent and then a little 
upward climb to the town, which is notable for its cleanli- 
ness and the industry and cleanness of its inhabitants. The 
town is situated upon a little hill, from which one looks out on 
a sea of green forests, with little rocky hillocks covered with 
trees rising from it, here and there, like wooded islands. 
Between us and Tamalin rose a semi-circle of ridges, 
sweeping from us off to the left and forward in the distance. 
In front, near the top of this curve of ridges, two leagues 
distant, lay Amatlan, clear and impressive, from this point. 
Riding up to the little town-house, which had a portico 
enclosed by a neat railing and supplied with pine benches, 
we dismounted, and, with some doubt as to its reception, 
presented our old letter. The secretario was an intelligent 
mestizo from Tuxpan. He sent at once for the alcalde^ 
who was a good-natured, little Huaxtec, of pure blood, 
thoroughly dependent upon his subordinate officer. We 
were promised everything. The school-house, remarkably 
clean, was put at our disposal, and a messenger was sent to 
notify an old woman named Guadelupe that she was to 
prepare our meals. Before four o'clock, work was under 
way, and during the two days that we remained, there 
were no difficulties. The houses of the town are somewhat 
like those of Tamalin, but less well built. The single 
industry is the weaving of hats from palm. On the house- 
roofs, and on the ground before the houses, palm was drying. 
Some of the work was extremely delicate, and the four 
grades of hats sell for from four pesos upward. Men, women 
and children are all occupied in the manufacture, and as 
they sit in their houses or at the door of an evening, or as 
they walk through the village on errands, their hands are 



IN THE HUAXTECA 285 

ever busily occupied with the plaiting. There is absolutely 
nothing characteristic in dress, both men and women 
dressing like mestizos in the important cities of the Republic. 
Almost every one wears shoes; women, those with high 
French heels. A resident tailor makes the bulk of the 
clothing for the more particular men of the town. In our 
school-room we were supplied with good kerosene lamps, 
an experience almost unique. Few, if any, of the houses in 
the village were without the same mode of light. Many, 
if not all, of the women had sewing-machines. 

We were more than ever impressed with the anomalous 
condition of these people in their own land. They were 
the cleanest, most industrious, best dressed and most pro- 
gressive Indians whom we had seen in any part of Mexico; 
but in the Huaxteca, the land which bears their name, they 
are being crowded by the less progressive Aztecs. Mestizos 
and Aztecs both speak of them with contempt, and treat 
them like dogs. As for their language, it is neglected and 
despised; while many of them know both Spanish and 
Aztec, neither mestizo nor Aztec considers it worth while 
to know a word of Huaxtec. While we had no trouble with 
the men, we began to feel that the women would fail us. 
It was after five o'clock, the last day of our stay, before a 
single one appeared. Then they came in a body, accom- 
panied by the full town force, and each with her husband 
as a guard, to our quarters. They were dressed in their 
best calico, muslin, silk and satin, with laces and artificial 
flowers, earrings, necklaces, and with shoes the heels of 
which measured from thirty to thirty-five millimeters. They 
were perfumed; their hair was heavily oiled with odorous 
greases. Each shook hands with our whole party, greeted 
us politely, and sat down on the long school-benches, waiting 
for her turn for measurement. Notwithstanding this 
rather oppressively lady-like mode of procedure, we were 



286 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

assured by old Guadelupe that our errand and work in the 
town had caused much terror and doubt, the women par- 
ticularly feeling sure that it boded UI. It was said that they 
recalled the fact that years ago certain of their old men 
predicted that strangers would eventually come to the 
\dllage, who would bewitch the people and destroy the town. 
It was cormnonly believed that we were now fulfilling this 
prediction. 

The physical t}^e of the Huaxtecs seems to be well 
marked. A peculiar gray tint underlies the brown color 
of the skin. The head is short, broad, and curiously com- 
pressed behind; the eyes are wide apart, and frequently 
oblique; the mouth is large, with thick but not projecting 
lips. 

We had planned to leave about the middle of the after- 
noon, and at 3:50 the best animals we have ever had 
were ready for our use. A magnificent horse, the special 
pride of the alcalde himseK, was put at my disposal. When 
we came to settle for the animals, all pa}TQent was refused, 
their use being the voluntar}' ofi'ering of the town officials. 
The animals made nothing of the journey, and within an 
hour and a half we had again reached Tamalin. 

We found that .A^tec town as disagreeable as ever. 
Solemn promises had been made that various danzas should 
be ready for us, and that there should be no delay regarding 
animals. Of course, we found nothing doing. The only 
satisfactor}' memor}^ connected with the town is our cook, 
Porfiria. She was a master hand, and with trainins;, should 
make a reputation and a fortune. A pure Indian, we 
would rather eat at her table than at that of any hah-breed 
cook in all that section. She always had quantities of 
food, and no two meals were alike. Unless we expressly 
ordered something we had had before, it is doubtful whether 
she would have repeated a single dish. Her enchiladaSy 



IN THE HUAXTECA 287 

seasoned with cheese and onions, were the best we ever had, 
and after the first experience, we insisted on having them 
at every meal. Her masterpieces were in simple maize. 
Her tortillas were good, but tortillas one finds everywhere; 
she served cocoles, chavacanes, and pemoL Cocoles are round, 
flat biscuits or cakes of maize, a couple of inches across 
and half an inch in diameter; they contain shortening, and 
when served hot, are delicious. Chavacanes are thin, flat 
square crackers of corn-meal with shortening and eggs; 
they are good even when cold, but are best when hot from 
the griddle. Pemol is a corn-cake, crumbly, sweet, and 
baked; it contains sugar and shortening, and is made up 
into the form of rather large cakes, shaped like horse-collars. 

As the result of vigorous remonstrance, the secretario 
really had the danza of los Negros at his house that night. 
Music was furnished by pito and huehuetl. The two per- 
formers, one representing a Spaniard and the other a negro, 
were masked. The action was lively, and the dialogue 
vociferous — both players frequently talking at once. The 
dance was kept up until nearly ten o'clock, after which, 
as we planned an early start, we were soon in bed. Just 
as we were dropping off to sleep, we heard the whistling 
and roaring of the norther outside, and the cold air found 
its way through every crack into our room. From our house 
the musicians and the dancers had gone to the syndico^s, 
where they stayed some time; but, between one and two 
in the morning, they came back to our house and played in 
the room next to ours, with the door wide open. Our 
interest was not great enough to lead us forth again. Finally 
they left, but at four o'clock the musicians, now quite 
drunk, appeared again, and for a long time the secretario, 
his lady, and the school-master, danced in lonely grandeur 
up and down the room. 

Don Leandro, the secretario, had promised to accom- 



288 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

pany us the following morning as far as San Geronimo. 
We had decided to go on horseback to Paso Real, a little 
distance beyond San Geronimo, and there take boat for 
Tampico. When morning came, we expressed surprise 
over Don Leandro's charging rent, in addition to the rather 
large price which we had already paid for beds. This 
seemed to hurt his sensitive feelings, with the result that we 
started without his company. The ride was monotonous, 
over a road which made few ascents or descents, and pre- 
sented little of variety or interest. Little green hills bordered 
the road on either side, and on many of them were ranch- 
houses, some of rather good construction. In a little 
stream over which we passed, we saw a great idol's head, of 
stone, a foot or more across, and well made. San Geron- 
imo we found to be the comfortable country-house of the 
alcalde of Tamalin and all the ranches among which 
we had made our journey. It was a fine old place, with 
high airy rooms, good verandas, and as old-fashioned tiled 
roof. Our journey had been hot, and we found a fine 
breeze blowing through the house. The alcalde knew all 
about our errand and was ready to be helpful. He was 
a tall, slender, mild-mannered and polite mestizo. After 
we had eaten, he rode with us to Paso Real to arrange about 
a boat and point out various objects of interest on the way. 
Chapapote, from which chewing gum is made, is an impor- 
tant product here, and among those interested in it as a 
business is an American dentist. We sav/ many birds, 
among which doves were conspicuous; the alcalde says that 
six or eight species occur here, the different kinds singing 
at different seasons; one of them had a peculiarly sad and 
mournful song, and is heard in the early morning. An- 
other bird, the primavera, seems to be like our mocking- 
bird, imitating the notes and cries of many other birds and 
animals. At two places we passed black lines of fora- 



IN THE HUAXTECA 289 

ging ants, and he told us that insects, frogs, toads, and even 
snakes, encountered by these hnes, are helpless, being 
promptly overcome and devoured. Arrived at Paso Real, 
the alcalde arranged for our boat. He told us that loaded 
boats require three days for making the journey to Tam- 
pico, but that ours, being empty, would probably go through 
in twenty-four hours. The boat he arranged for had been 
partly loaded, but its ovmer had agreed to unload in order 
to receive us. As a favor to him, we consented to permit five 
or six not large boxes to go along. Having ordered supper 
for us at the house upon the summit from which the road 
descended to Paso Real, the alcalde left us. Supper was slow, 
but at last was over. Our baggage had already been carried 
to the boat, and we strolled down to take our passage. 
Less room was left for us than we had expected the boxes 
would leave, but it was dark and we raised no question. 
We waited an impatient hour for our canoemen to take 
their supper, being almost devoured by mosquitoes, but at 
last were off at nine o'clock. Our force consisted of two 
men and a little lad. It was with difficulty that two could 
be accommodated beneath the awning, and Manuel and I 
took our places outside. For my own part, sleep was im- 
possible. Now that we were in motion, the mosquitoes 
ceased to trouble us. The stream was narrow, and on 
account of the curves, we were forced to move slowly. We 
floated out under and beneath bamboos, which hung far 
over the water and outlined themselves like lace-work 
against the sky. At first, there was moonlight. Later, 
the moon set, but the stars were brilliant. The early morn- 
ing was cold, and a heavy dew dampened everything out- 
side the awning. During the day our men stopped on every 
pretext to rest and sleep, and whenever we came to a con- 
siderable stretch of water, any sign of storm or cloud was 
heralded. Just before daybreak, we had reached the be- 



290 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ginning of the first large lagoon. Here our sail was hoisted, 
though it was of little use, while we poled along near shore, 
following all the long curves. Our first stop, on account of a 
norther, was exciting; from the anxiety of the men, we 
expected to be instantly upset. We ran into the mouth of 
a little stream and lay to, and the men were almost instantly 
asleep. Our party went out exploring ; our landing place was 
a heap of shells, whether artificial or natural I am not sure; 
the place was a favorite spot with hunters of caimans, or 
alligators, and we found numbers of almost complete skele- 
tons and skulls lying on the banks. The boys picked 
up quantities of scales and teeth, and it was interesting 
to see how the new conical teeth grow up under the hollows of 
the old ones. We killed a duck or two for supper. One or 
two large caimans were seen, as we strolled along. Finally, 
I insisted upon the men starting again. We were travers- 
ing a system of great lagoons which opened one into an- 
other. Poling was our only mode of progress. That night 
Manuel and I occupied the shelter. When we rose, we 
found the great lagoon, through which we were then passing, 
quite different in its character from those preceding it. 
Thickets of mangroves bordered the shore; the display 
of aerial roots was interesting, and here we were able to 
examine the curious smooth tips of the roots which are to 
penetrate the soft mud bottom. We landed at one place 
to get wood and to catch a glimpse of the sea, whose roar- 
ing we had for hours heard. We left our boat in the lagoon, 
and walked a short distance over sand dunes, thickly grown 
with trees, to the beach, which only appeared in sight when 
we reached the top of the last dune. It was a gently slop- 
ing sandy stretch, upon which a fine surf was beating. 
There were no pebbles save bits of water-worn coral and 
shell. Quantities of sea-gulls were flying about and flocks 
of little snipe ran down over the retreating surf, catching 




Our Canoe for Sixty Hours; The Lagoons 




Mangrove Roots 



IN THE HUAXTECA 291 

food, turning and running rapidly in before the coming 
wave. A single shot into the flock killed thirty-one of the 
little creatures, which later in the day supplied us an excel- 
lent meal. From this lagoon of mangroves, we finally 
entered the great lagoon of La Riviera, which pretty town 
we passed a little before three o'clock. From here we 
knew that, by hiring horses, we could reach Tampico in 
two hours; had we really known what lay before us, we 
would have done so. Having passed La Riviera, we entered 
a narrow canal, bordered for the most part with tall, flat 
rushes and a great grass much like our wild rice. Here 
again we saw large herons and great kingfishers; the boys 
had repeatedly tried to shoot one of the latter birds, but 
with no success; finally, one was seen standing on the 
branch of a tree hanging over the stream; this one was 
shot, and when we picked it up, we found it to be curi- 
ously distorted, the breast being strangely swollen. When 
skinned, this swelling proved to be due to a fish which 
the bird had eaten, and which was almost as large as itself. 
Weighted with this heavy burden, it is no wonder that the 
bird had been shot so easily. At dusk we found ourselves 
at a landing-place, where we left the boxes, which turned 
out to be eight in number, each of which weighed one hun- 
dred and twenty-five pounds. They contained chapapote. 
Our men had talked much of the canal, to which, for 
some time, we had been looking forward. At this landing, 
arrangements were made for helping us through the canal, 
a little canoe being despatched after us, to help unload us. 
When we reached the canal, narrow, shallow and straight, 
cut for the most part through the solid rock, the moon was 
shining brightly. Our great canoe was soon aground, and 
whole party, seven in number, climbed out into the water 
to push and pull. We dislodged it soon, but shortly came 
to a complete standstill. Here for the first time, we real- 



292 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ized the cargo which we carried, which before had been 
carefully covered so that we really were in ignorance of it. 
Eighty half-dozen cakes of sugar were unloaded into the 
little canoe, which paddled away. We waited, noting with 
regret that the falling water, probably due to tide, was fix- 
ing our canoe more and more firmly in the mud. Finally, 
the little canoe came back, taking another eighty half-dozen 
cakes of sugar on board. Our canoe having been thus 
lightened, we made another effort to move it, and, after 
many struggles and groans, finally found ourselves in deeper 
water, embarked, and poled off. Having reached the place 
upon the bank where the canoe loads had been left, we 
stopped to freight again. To our surprise, we found here 
once more the eight boxes of chapapote, which, apparently, 
had been carted across. We were now able to calculate 
the load which our "empty" canoe, hired at thirty pesos, 
in order to take us quickly through to Tampico, was 
carrying : 
120 dozen cakes of panela, of 2 lbs 2,880 lbs. 

8 boxes chapapote, of 125 lbs 1,000 lbs. 

6 sacks of beans, of 100 lbs 600 lbs. 

Total 4,480 lbs. 

In other words, we had been crowded and delayed by 
more than two tons of cargo. Perhaps, had we been 
actually alone in the boat, it might have made its journey 
in the twenty-four hours promised, instead of the sixty of 
accomplishment. It was nine o'clock when we were again 
aboard, and we made the boatman travel all night long. 
At the stroke of half-past-three we heard the bells of Tam- 
pico, and drew up along the waterside-landing of that city. 
For two full hours we lay there, listening to the buyers 
bartering with the boatmen for their load of maize, jrijol 
and panela untill daylight, when we gave orders to unload. 



CHAPTER XXII 

IN MAYA LAND 
(1901) 

AXJE had planned to go from Tampico to Chiapas, and 
^ ^ from there to Yucatan, where we were to finish our 
work for the season. We found, however, that there was 
no certainty in regard to a boat for Coatzacoalcos, while 
the Benito Juarez was about to sail for Progreso the next 
day. Not to lose time, we decided to do our Yucatan work 
first, and to let Chiapas wait until later. We were busy that 
day making arrangements for departure, and in the afternoon 
hired a canoe to take our stuff from the wharf to the boat, 
which was standing out in the river, beyond Dona Cecilia. 
There was a brisk wind against us, and we almost arrived 
too late to have our luggage taken aboard. The next 
morning, we took the first train to Dofia Cecilia, and were 
on board the boat at nine o'clock. We had been told that 
the sailing would take place at ten, but, on arrival, found 
that they were waiting for cattle which were being brought 
across country. One hundred and twenty head were to 
make our chief cargo, and they were expected at six a. m. 
Nothing, however, was to be seen of them in any direction. 
We had taken breakfast, and it was almost twelve o'clock 
before the first signs of the animals were to be seen. Mean- 
time, at eleven, a norther appeared, and we were informed 
that it would be impossible to leave short of twenty-four 
hours. Besides our company, there were three first-class 
passengers — a sort of German-Austrian baron and his 
lady, and a contractor, who was taking a force of hands to 

293 



294 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Yucatan for farm labor. Eighty-three of these hands were 
our tliird-class passengers; they had been picked up all 
along tlie line of the Tampico Branch of the Central Rail- 
way, and few of tliem realized the hardships and trials 
which lay before them. We were assured that more than 
haK of them would surely die before the end of their first 
year in Yucatan. As we could not leave until the norther 
passed, it was decided not to take tlie catde on board until 
next day. Thus we spent a day as prisoners on the boat, 
standing in the river. In the morning the water was still 
rough and tlie wind hea^y, but at 9:30 tlie loading of the 
animals began. They were brought out on a barge, about 
one-half of the whole number to a load ; tackle was rigged 
and the creatures were lifted by ropes looped around their 
horns. The first few were lifted singly, but after tliat, two 
at once. While it sounds brutal, it is really a most con- 
venient method, and tlie animals, though startled, do not 
seem to be injured in the least, nor indulge in much kicking. 
By 1 1 140 all were loaded and we were ready for our start. 
We had to wait until the customs-house inspector should 
come on board to discharge us, and this was not done until 
half-past one. We sailed out, bet^veen the jetties, at two 
o'clock, and found the Guh rough, and a high wind, which 
continued through most of our voyage. The smell from 
tlie cattle was disagreeable, and bet^veen it and the rough- 
ness, all were seasick before the first afternoon was over. 

Captain Irs-ine is the youngest captain of tlie Ward 
Line, being but twent}'-six years of age. He has followed 
the sea since he was tliirteen years old. A Nova Scotian 
by birth, he has sailed this coast for some little time, and is 
a competent ofiicial, doing his utmost for the pleasure and 
convenience of his passengers. The journey was uneventful. 
There was some excitement among tlie third-class passengers, 
many of whom were drunk and quarrelsome. The first 



IN MAYA LAND 295 

evening, two of them were fighting, with the result that the 
head of one was spHt open and had to be dressed by the 
captain. When we had been some forty-eight or fifty 
hours at sea, we found ourselves off the Campeche banks, 
in quieter water. Those who had suffered from sickness 
were again quite themselves. It was 4:30 Sunday morning, 
February 3, after we had been almost three days and three 
nights at sea, and four days on the boat, that the Progreso 
light was sighted, and not long after we came to anchor. 
We waited from six o'clock until almost ten for lighters and 
the doctor. After he had made his inspection, we piled 
off with all our baggage onto a little steamer, which charged 
three dollars, each passenger, for taking us to the pier, 
which was close by, and to which our own boat could easily 
have run. This, however, was but the beginning of Yuca- 
tecan troubles. When we found ourselves on the wharf, 
the customs officials insisted upon our going to the general 
office for inspection, on account of the character and amount 
of our luggage. Arrived there, we found that we had no 
clearing papers for our stuff, and forty dollars duty was 
required for material which had already paid duty in enter- 
ing Mexico, and which had only gone from one Mexican port 
to another, as baggage. In vain we argued and attempted 
to explain matters. The officials advised us to bring the 
American consul and have him straighten matters; but his 
office was shut, as it was Sunday. Meantime, we saw the 
train, which we had expected to take at 1 1 130, leave for 
Merida, and at twelve o'clock the customs-house offices were 
closed, and we were forced to leave the business for another 
day. Fortunately, there are two railroads from Progreso 
to Merida, and we were able to take an afternoon train over 
the narrow-gauge line for the capital city. The station was 
an enormous, wooden, bam-like structure; the cars were 
weather-beaten and dilapidated to a degree — except the 



296 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

first-class car, which was in fair condition. Passengers 
were gathering, but no particular signs of tlie starting of a 
train were evident. Boys at the station were selling slabs 
of pudding, squares of sponge cake soaked with red liquor, 
pieces of papaya, cups of sweetened boiled rice, and oranges. 
The oranges were unexpectedly high in price, two selling 
for a medio] the seller pares off the yellow skins and cuts 
them squarely in two before selling; the buyer eats merely 
the pulp, throwing the white skin away. As train-time 
neared, interesting incidents occurred. The ticket-agent 
was drunk and picked a quarrel with a decent, harmless- 
looking Indian; the conductor dressed in the waiting-room, 
putting on a clean shirt and taking off his old one, at the 
same time talking to us about our baggage-checks. A 
fine horse, frisky and active, was loaded into the same 
baggage-freight car with our goods. The bells were rung as 
signals, and the station locked ; the whole management — 
ticket-agent, conductor and baggagemen — then got upon 
the train and we were off. At one of the stations the ticket- 
agent took his horse out from the car, and riding off into 
the country, we saw no more of him. 

The country through which we were running was just 
as I had imagined it. Though it was supposed to be the 
cold season, the day was frightfully hot, and everyone was 
suffering. The country was level and covered with a 
growth of scrub. There was, however, more color in the 
gray landscape than I had expected. Besides the grays of 
many shades — dusty trees, foliage, bark and branches — 
there were greens and yellows, both of foliage and flowers, 
and here and there, a little red. But everywhere there was 
the flat land, the gray limestone, the low scrub, the dust 
and dryness, and the blazing sun. There were many 
palm trees — chiefly cocoanut — on the country-places, and 
there were fields of hennequin, though neither so extensive 




Loading Cattle; Dona Cecilia 




Mayas, Returning ikum Work; Santa Maria 



IN MAYA LAND 



297 



nor well-kept as I had anticipated. It resembles the 
maguey, though the leaves are not so broad, nor do they 
grow from the ground; the hennequin leaves are long, 
narrow, sharp-pointed, and rather thickly set upon a woody 
stalk that grows upright to a height of several feet. The 
leaves are trimmed off, from season to season, leaving the 
bare stalk, showing the leaf-scar. The upper leaves con- 
tinue to grow. In places we noticed a curious mode 
of protecting trees by rings of limestone rock built around 
them; many of these trees appear to grow from an elevated, 
circular earth mass. At Conkal, the great stone church mag- 
nificently represented the olden time, but it bore two light- 
ning rods and was accompanied by two wind-mills of Ameri- 
can manufacture. Everywhere, in fact, the American 
wind-mill is in evidence. One can but wish that the poor 
users of the old cenotes might come to life, and, for a little 
time, enjoy the work of the winds in their behalf. Every 
where we saw plenty of Maya indians and heard something 
of the old language. All travellers to Yucatan comment on 
the universal cleanness of the population; notable in the 
indians, this marks equally well the mestizos, whites and 
negroes. They are not only clean, but all are well dressed. 
Men wear low, round-crowned, broad-brimmed palm 
hats; trousers are rarely of the tight-fitting Mexican kind; 
indians who work at heavy labor protect their clean white 
shirts and drawers with a strip of stuff, like ticking, wrapped 
about them. Women wear two white garments, both ample, 
hanging from the neck, bordered with black or colored bands. 
They generally wear long necklaces or rosaries, the beads of 
which are spaced with gold coins, and a cross of gold or 
a medal of the same material hangs at the bottom. Women 
of middle age are usually stout, and march with quite a 
stately tread. 

Merida itself is much larger and better built than we 



298 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

had expected. Many of the houses, especially on the out- 
skirts, are elliptical in section, and have walls of small 
stones closely set in mud plaster. In the center of the town 
the houses are covered with painted plaster and are in the 
usual Latin-American style. Great numbers of quaint 
little coaches, with a single horse, were waiting at the station. 
As we walked up to the center of the town, we found but 
few places open, practically nothing but barber-shops 
and drug-stores. Of both of these, however, there were 
a surprising number. 

Having been directed to the Hotel Concordia, we were 
disappointed when the old lady in charge stated that she 
had no rooms, and directed us across the way to the Hotel 
de Mexico. As we had arranged for the delivery of our 
stuff, we did not care to look elsewhere, and therefore 
inspected the rooms in this hotel. To reach them, we went 
through a barber-shop into a narrow patio, and, mount- 
ing some rickety stairs, found our quarters, which were 
filthy, vile-smelling, hot and uncared for. Yet for these 
choice quarters, with two beds in each of two rooms, leaving 
no space practically between, we were expected to pay 
four dollars. Upon remonstrating with the proprietor at 
the price demanded, he cooly said, " Oh, yes, everything here 
costs high; but there is money to pay it with." This 
really stated the fact. Conditions in Merida are the most 
abnormal of any place which I have visited. Owing to the 
war in the Philippines, and interference with the trade in 
hemp, the fiber of the hennequin is in great demand, and 
money is plentiful. At good restaurants each plate costs 
thirty cents, instead of ten or twelve, as in the City of Mexico 
itself. No coach will cross the street for less than fifty 
cents; for a cooling drink, such as in the capital city would 
cost three cents, one here pays twelve. The shortest street- 
car line charges ten cents; and everything else is in propor- 



IN MAYA LAND 299 



tion. What the hotel-keeper said, about there being money 
to pay these frightful prices, was equally true. We paid 
cargadors four times, draymen three times, more than we 
have ever done in any other part of Mexico. In the restau- 
rants we saw cargadors calling for plates at thirty cents, 
boot-blacks eating ices at one real, newsboys riding in 
coaches, and other astonishing sights. In the plaza, good 
music is played on Sunday nights, and every one is out in all 
his finery; fruits, sweetmeats, refreshing drinks, are hawked 
everywhere, and are much indulged in ; under the corridors 
are little tables, where ices, iced milk and drinks are served. 
At the hotel we passed a night of horror, suffering from the 
heat, dust, ill-placed lights, mosquitoes and other insects. 
Leaving my companions I went the following morning to 
Progreso to attend to the unlucky baggage. For variety, 
I took the broad-gauge road, but found little difference in 
the country through which we passed. The number of wind- 
mills was astonishing, and most of them were Chicago 
aeromotors. At one station a great crowd of pure indians 
got off and on the train. The American consul at Progreso 
is too much interested in archaeology to be found at his 
office, but his Mexican vice-consul was present. To him 
our difficulty was explained, and on his advice we deposited 
the forty dollars demanded for duty, and signed various 
documents of remonstrance, upon which we paid almost 
four dollars more for stamps. We were then permitted to 
take out enough plates for immediate use, leaving the 
balance in Progreso until we should be ready for our return 
journey. 

Acting on the advice of the vice-consul, we changed 
quarters in Merida from the Hotel de Mexico, to the Moro- 
muzo, kept by an American who had been many years 
in the country, and where, though we paid even more for 
rooms, we had some comfort. By industrious search, we 



300 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

found a Chinese restaurant, where prices were not high 
and service quite as good as in the aristocratic place where 
we had dined before. The day before we called at the palace, 
hoping to see the governor, though it was Sunday, He 
was out of town, and we were asked to call the following 
day. Accordingly, in the afternoon, after returning from 
Progreso, I repeated my call but was told that the governor 
had gone out of town again and that I should come the fol- 
lowing day. The third day, again presenting myself at 
the office, I learned that it was a holiday and that the gov- 
ernor would not be at the palace; the secretary recom- 
mended that I try to see him at his house. To his hoUse 
I went, and sending in my card and my letters from the 
Federal authorities was surprised, after having been kept 
waiting in the corridor, to be informed that the governor 
would not see me, and that I should call at the palace, the 
next day, in the afternoon, at two o'clock. Sending back a 
polite message that we had waited three whole days to see 
his excellency, and that our time was limited, my surprise 
was still greater at receiving the tart reply that he had 
stated when he would see me. We spent the balance of 
day and all the morning of the next, looking about the town. 
Having failed in my visit to Governor Canton, I took 
a street-car to Itzimna to see the bishop, to ask him for a 
letter to his clergy. The well-known Bisdop Ancona had 
lately died, and the new incumbent was a young man from 
the interior of Mexico, who had been here but a few months. 
He had been ill through the whole period of his residence, 
and seemed frail and weak. He received me in the kindest 
way, and after reading the letters I presented, asked whether 
I had not been in Puebla at a certain time two years before; 
on my replying in the affirmative, he remarked that he had 
met me at the palace of the bishop of Puebla and had then 
learned of my work and studies. He gave me an excellent 



IN MAYA LAND 301 

letter to his clergy, and as I left, with much feeling, he urged 
me to be careful of my health and that of my companions 
while we were in the country. When he came from Puebla, 
only a few months before, he brought three companions 
with him, all of whom had died of yellow fever. He told 
me that, though this was not the season for that dread dis- 
ease, cases of it had already broken out in the city; at the 
same time he stated that more than eight hundred cases of 
small-pox were reported in Merida, and that many of them 
were of the most virulent. Sunday we had walked through 
dust ankle-deep upon the roads; Tuesday and Wednesday 
it was with difficulty that we could cross the streets, which 
were filled with mud, and, part of the time, with muddy 
water a foot and more in depth. This is a frequent occur- 
rence, and foot-passengers who desire to cross the street 
are often forced to hire a coach for that purpose. As one 
walks the street, he runs constant risk of being splashed 
with mud and water from passing vehicles and street-cars. 
During the four days we spent in Merida we met several 
persons interested in literary lines, and visited a number 
of institutions, among which the most interesting was the 
Museo Yucateco, of which Sefior Gamboa Guzman is in 
charge. It is by no means what it should be, or what, with 
but small outlay, it might be. But it contains interesting 
things in archaeology, in local history, and in zoology. It 
is of special interest to Americans because Le Plongeon 
was interested in its foundation and early development. 

An old gentleman, clerk in the diocesan offices, advised 
us to visit Tekax and Peto for our study. The governor 
had set the hour of two for our reception. Merely to see 
when he would come, we seated ourselves in the garden of 
the plaza, so that we could watch the entrance to the palace. 
Two came, but no governor. At 2:30 several gentlemen 
were waiting near the office door. At three no governor 



302 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

had arrived. At five minutes past three, we noticed that 
hum of excitement and expectation which usually heralds 
some great event, and looking down the street, saw the 
governor pompously approaching. As he passed, hats were 
removed and profound salutations given. Waiting until 
he had entered the office, we walked up to the reception 
room, where we found ten or twelve gentlemen waiting 
audience. The great man himself had disappeared into 
an office which opened onto this reception-room, but the 
door of which was not closed. All waited patiently; from 
time to time the usher-secretary crept noiselessly to the 
office door and peeked through the key-hole to see whether 
the executive was ready. Finally, at 3:35 the word was 
given, and the privilege of the first audience was granted 
to myself. During these days of waiting — something 
which has never occurred with any of the many governors 
of states in Mexico upon whom I have called — I had 
expressed my surprise to a gentleman of wealth and prom- 
inence in the city, at the governor's compelling me to wait 
for audience. With some feeling, this gentleman replied, 
"But, sir, you are fortunate; you are a stranger, and bring 
letters from cabinet officials; many of the best gentlemen 
in this city have been kept waiting months in order to see 
Governor Canton in regard to business of the highest con- 
sequence to themselves and to the public." I will do the 
governor justice by saying that he listened with apparent 
interest to my statement, and that he gave orders that the 
letters which I wished, to local authorities, should be pre- 
pared without delay. Thanking him, I withdrew, and by 
five o'clock the secretary handed me the desired documents; 
we had lost four days. Early the following morning, as 
no cargadors were at hand, our little company resolved 
itself into a band of carriers and we took our baggage and 
equipment to the Peto station. The securing of tickets 



IN MAYA LAN D 303 

and the checking of baggage was quite an undertaking, 
and if the train had started at the time announced, we should 
have missed it; however, we were in good season, and left 
something less than an hour late. The country through 
which we passed was an improvement upon what we had 
seen before. The trees were greener, and many flowers 
were in bloom. From the train, we saw a group of pyra- 
mids at one point, and an isolated pyramid at another. 
Some of the indian towns through which we passed, with 
curious Maya names, were interesting. So, too, were the 
vendors at the station. Hot tamales, '^ pura masa^^ (pure 
dough), as Manuel said, slippery and soapy in feeling and 
consistency, done up in banana leaves and carefully tied, 
seemed to be the favorite goods; far better were split tor- 
tillas with beans inside and cheese outside; beautiful red 
bananas and plump smooth yellow ones were offered in 
quantity. We lost an hour at the station where trains met, 
reaching Tekax at eleven. We walked up to the hot plaza, 
where we found the town offices closed, and had difficulty 
in even leaving our stuff with the police. At a restaurant 
we had a fair breakfast, for which we paid a peso each 
person. As there were no signs of the town officials, we 
dropped into the curato to see the priest, to whom we pre- 
sented the bishop's letter. He was a Spaniard, who had 
been in this country only a few months, and despises it 
heartily. He was sitting at table with two young men, 
who had accompanied him from Spain, and who love Yuca- 
tan no better than he. He greeted us most heartily, and 
was interested in our plan of work. He sent at once for 
the judge of the registro civil, who could tell us many 
curious things about the Indians, and, as soon as the old 
man came, the good priest ordered chocolate to be served. 
We chatted for some time, when, seeing that the jeje^s 
office was open, I suggested that I had better go to present 



304 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

my letters. The cura and the judge at once began to abuse 
that official roundly for his sins of commission, and par- 
ticularly for those of omission, and told me that I should 
have him summoned; that it was much better than to 
trouble myself by going to his office, where I had already 
been twice in vain; it was but right that he should attend 
to business; he ought to be in his office when visitors came 
to see him. Accordingly a messenger was sent and the 
jefe summoned. 

He seemed a rather nice young fellow, and was much 
impressed by the letter from his governor; he expressed 
himself as ready and anxious to serve us in every way, and 
made arrangements for us to begin work in the town-house, 
where, before dark, we had taken fifteen sets of measure- 
ments. This was a capital beginning, but the next two 
days our work fell flat. It was necessary to keep constantly 
at the jeje, and it soon became plain that he was making no 
great effort to secure subjects for us, on the assumption 
that we had better wait until Sunday, when there would be 
plenty of people without trouble to the police. 

It was useless to urge effort, and we spent the time 
talking with the old judge in regard to the habits and 
superstitions of the indians and in walking with the judge 
of primera instancia up to the ridge which overlooked the 
town, and which was crowned by a little hermita. The 
population of Yucatan is still, for the most part, pure In- 
dian of Maya blood and speech. The former importance 
of this people is well known; they had made the greatest 
progress of any North American population, and the ruins 
of their old towns have often been described. They built 
temples and public buildings of stone and with elaborate 
carved decorations; they ornamented walls with stucco, 
often worked into remarkable figures; they cast copper 
and gold; they hived bees, and used both wax and honey 



IN MAYA LAND 305 

in religious ceremonial. They spun and wove cotton, 
which they dyed with brilliant colors; they had a system 
of writing which, while largely pictorial, contained some 
phonetic elements. They are still a vital people, more than 
holding their own in the present population, and forcing 
their native language upon the white invaders. Nominally 
good Catholics, a great deal of old superstition still sur- 
vives, and they have many interesting practices and beliefs. 
The cura presented me a ke'esh of gold, which he took 
from the church, where it had been left by a worshipper. 
It is a little votive figure crudely made, commonly of silver; 
the word means ''exchange," and such figures are given 
by the Indians to their saint or to the Virgin in exchange 
for themselves, after some sickness or danger. 

The ridge overlooking the town is of limestone, and is 
covered with a handsome growth of trees and grass. The 
terrace on which the hermita is built is flat and cleared; 
it is reached by a gently graded ascent, with a flight of wide 
and easy steps, now much neglected. The little building 
is dismantled, though there is some talk of reconstructing 
it. Behind it is a well of vile and stagnant water, which is 
reputed to cure disease. From the ridge a pretty view of 
Tekax is to be had, bedded in a green sheet of trees. The 
town is regularly laid out, and presents little of interest, 
though the two-storied portales and the odd three-storied 
house of Senor Duarte attract attention. There are also 
many high, square, ventilated shafts, or towers, of distil- 
leries. From the terrace where we stood, in the days of 
the last great insurrection, the Indians swept down upon 
the town and are said to have killed 2,500 of the people, 
including men, women and children. 

The school-teacher of the town is a man of varied 
attainments, being also a photographer, watch-maker, 
medical-adviser, chemist, and so forth. His house is full 



3o6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

of scientific instruments — a really good camera, a fine 
aneroid barometer, several thermometers, including self- 
registering maximum and minimum, etc., etc. All seem 
excellent in quality, but I could not learn that he makes 
any use of them, except the camera. The cura and the 
judge deride his possession of the instruments, doubting 
whether he knows how to use them. They assert that he 
has an apparatus for projection, for which he paid looo 
pesos, which has never yet been unpacked. When we 
called on him he showed us, by his hygrometer, that the air 
was very humid, though the temperature was at 86° Fahr., 
and told us, what probably is true, that in this heavy, hot 
weather, every wound and bruise, however trifling, is likely 
to become serious. In illustration of this fact, the cura 
mentioned that his Spanish carpenter, who merely bruised 
his leg against the table, has suffered frightfully for three 
months, having now an ugly sore several inches across, that 
makes walking difficult. Great care is necessary with any 
injury that breaks or bruises the skin. We ourselves had 
already experienced the fact that insect-bites became ugly 
open sores that showed no signs of healing; as a fact, none of 
us succeeded in curing such for several weeks after leaving 
Yucatan. In the afternoon, the priest, the judge of primera 
instancia and myself took a coach to ride out to a neigh- 
boring hacienda, where there was a great sugar-mill, Louis 
accompanying us on horseback. Our road ran alongside 
the ridge and consisted of red limestone-clay. It was fairly 
good, though dry and dusty, and closely bordered with the 
usual Yucatecan scrub. The ridge, along which we were 
coursing, is the single elevation in the peninsula; beginning 
in northeastern Yucatan, it runs diagonally toward the 
southwest, ending near Campeche, It is generally covered 
with a dense growth of forest, unless artificial clearings have 
been made. Covies of birds, like quail, were seen here and 



IN MAYA LAND 307 



there, along the road, and at one point a handsome green 
snake, a yard or more in length, glided across the way. Snakes 
are said to be common, and among them several are venom- 
ous — the rattlesnake, the coral-snake, and most dreaded 
of all, a little dark serpent a foot or so in length, with an 
enormous head, whose bite is said to be immediately fatal. 
There are also many tree-snakes, as thick as a man's arm. 
In the forest, mountain-lions are rare, but "tigers" are 
common. We found Santa Maria to be an extensive 
hacienda^ and the sugar-mill was a large structure, well 
supplied with modern machinery, and turning out a large 
amount of product. We saw a few of the indian hands, 
went through the factory, and were shown through the 
owner's house, which has beautiful running water and baths, 
though there is little furniture, and nothing of what we 
would consider decoration. It was after dark before we 
started to town, and when we got there we found two wedding 
parties waiting for the padre's services. 

The promised crowd filled the market Sunday, and our 
work went finely. Between the town officials and the priest, 
subjects were constantly supplied. Among the Indians 
who presented themselves for measurement was old Manuel, 
sacristan from Xaya; he is a k'men, and we had hoped 
that he would show us the method of using the sasiun, or 
divining crystal. He is a full-blood, and neither in face 
nor manner shows the least emotion. Automatic in move- 
ment, he is quiet and phlegmatic in manner; having as- 
sumed the usual indian pose for rest, a squat position in 
which no part of the body except the feet rests upon the 
ground, or any support, he sat quietly, with the movement of 
scarcely a muscle, for hours at a time. He sang for us 
the invocation to the winds of the four quarters, which they 
use in the ceremony of planting time. Though he is fre- 
quently employed to say the "milpa mass" and to conjure. 



3o8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

he claims that he never learned how to use the sastun, but 
told us that another h^men in his village knew it well. 

One of the padre's companions has been ill ever since 
he came to Yucatan; Sunday he suffered so greatly that a 
doctor was sent for in haste. Nothing was told us as to 
what his trouble might be, but personally I suspected that he 
had the small-pox. In connection with his illness, we 
learned for the first time that another companion of the 
priest, brought from Spain, died in the room I was occupy- 
ing, less than two weeks before, from yellow fever. We 
had known that one of his companions had died of yellow 
fever, but supposed it was some months earlier. Toward 
evening the priest was sent for by a neighbor, who needed the 
last service. On the padre's return, we learned that this 
person was believed to be dying from vomito. For a moment 
we were in doubt what was best to do, especially as the police 
had told us that the padre had permitted no fumigation of 
his premises after his comrade's death, simply sprinkling 
holy water about the place. That night the young man in 
the next room suffered greatly, and I could not help but 
wonder what ailed him. However, I decided that what 
danger there might be from the disease we had already 
risked, and as we expected to remain but one or two more 
days, it seemed hardly worth while to make a change. Mon- 
day we planned a visit to San Juan and Xaya. The horses 
had been ordered for five o'clock, but mass had been said, 
chocolate taken, and all was ready, long before they appeared- 
Six, seven, eight all passed, and at last, at nine, only three 
animals appeared. This decided us to leave Ramon behind 
to pack the busts which we had made, while the others of 
the party, with the padre, mounted on his own horse, should 
make the journey. A foot mozo carried the camera. The 
road was of the usual kind, and was marked at every quarter 
league with a little cross of wood set into a pile of stones 




Maya Dance; San Juan 




Thk ii'iiKN wLiH His Sastun; San Juan 



IN MAYA LAND 309 

and bearing the words, De Tekax L. As we passed La 

Trinidad we noticed great tanks of water for irrigation before 
the house, and tall trees with their bare, gray roots running 
over and enveloping the piles of stones on which they had 
been planted. There were no other plantations or villages 
until just before the ninth cross — two and a quarter leagues 
— we came to the hennequin plantation of San Juan. The 
mayor domo was delighted to see the padre and greeted us 
warmly, taking us at once to the great house. We rode 
between long lines of orange trees, loaded with sweet and 
juicy fruits, and were soon sitting in the cool and delightful 
hallway. It is impossible to say how many dozens of those 
oranges four of us ate, but we were urged to make away 
with all we could, as the daily gathering is something more 
than five thousand. Soon an elaborate breakfast was 
ready for us, but before we ate we took a drink of fresh milk 
from cocoanuts cut expressly for us. We had salmon, eggs, 
meat-stew, beans, tortillas, and wine. But the mayor domo 
expressed his regret that he did not know we were coming, 
as he would gladly have killed a little pig for us. As des 
sert a great dish of fresh papaya cut up into squares and 
soaking in its own juice, was served. Sitting in the cool 
corridor, after a good breakfast, and looking out over 
a beautiful country, with promises that all the subjects 
necessary for measurement should be supplied, the idea of 
riding on to Xaya lost attractiveness, and we sent a foot- 
messenger with an order to the town authorities to send the 
h'men with his sastuns without delay to see us. 

This was our first opportimity to see the industry of 
hennequin, which is the chief product of this haciettda. The 
leaves, after cutting, are brought from the field tied up in 
bundles. These are opened, and the leaves are fed into a 
revolving, endless double chain, which carries them on 
iron arms upward and dumps them onto a table, where 



3IO IN INDIAN MEXICO 

three men receive them and feed them into the stripper. 
This consists of a round table, into the inner, excavated, 
circular face of which a round knife with dull edge fits closely, 
though at only one place at once; the leaves, fed between the 
table and knife, are held firmly by them at about one-third 
their length. The projecting two-thirds of the leaves 
hang downward; as the table revolves the leaves thus held 
are carried to a vertical revolving rasp which strips out the 
flesh, leaving the fibre masses hanging. These taken out 
from between the table and the knife are fed again to a 
second revolving table which holds the masses of fibre, 
leaving the unstripped portion of the leaves exposed to a 
second rasp, which strips it. The hanks of fibre are dropped 
from the second table onto a horizontal wooden bar, where 
they are rapidly sorted over by a man who throws inferior 
and spotted bunches to one side. The whole operation 
is rapid and beautiful. The fresh fibre is then hung over 
bars, in the southern wind, to dry, after which it is baled 
in presses for shipment. 

We had no trouble in completing the measurement of 
subjects from the Indian hands on the place, and made por- 
traits and photographs of native dancers. In the afternoon 
the h^men appeared. He was an extremely clean and neat 
indian of forty-five, and carried at his side a little sack, 
within which, carefully wrapped up in a handkerchief, were 
his sastuns. There were five in all; three were small round 
balls of glass, broken from the stoppers of perfume bottles; 
one was somewhat barrel-shaped and of bluish color, while 
the other, the largest of all, was rather long, fancifully 
formed, and with facets ground out upon it; it was yellowish 
in tint. The two latter were apparently from toilet bottles. 
Telling him that I was anxious to learn about something 
which had been stolen from me, I asked what was necessary 
in the way of preparation. He demanded a candle and 



IN MAYA LAND 311 



aguardiente. A great taper of yellow wax and a bottle of 
spirits were supplied. Taking these in his hand, he entered 
the little chapel of the hacienda, considering it a good place 
for conjuring. He piously kissed the altar tables and the 
bases of the crucifixes and saints; then picking out a dark 
comer he opened his cloth, took out his glasses, lighted the 
candle and squatted for his operation. Taking one of 
the crystal balls between his fingers, he held it between the 
flame and his eye and looked intently into it, as if seeking 
something. One after another, the five crystals were care- 
fully examined. Finally, laying the last aside, he shook 
his head. He could see nothing, nothing whatever, that 
interested the gentleman, unless indeed sickness; this he 
pointed out in one of the little balls; redness, fever. Being 
urged to try again, after an interval he got down to real busi- 
ness; he took the aguardiente, dipped the crystals into the 
liquor, repeating formulas as he did so, and again made 
the test, but with no better result. He could see nothing, 
absolutely nothing, of stolen property; there was nothing 
in the crystal of interest to the gentleman, except fever; 
that there was, he was certain. This practice of divining 
by means of crystals is a survival from the old pagan days. 
It is probable that there is no Indian town of any size in 
Yucatan where some Ji'men does not make use of it. 

We had now finished our work with Maya Indians, 
except the measurement of a few women and the making of 
a single bust. Upon rather strong representation to the 
jeje, a desperate effort was made by the policemen and 
the women were secured. Among the village police-force, 
one man had attracted our particular attention, as repre- 
senting a type of face, quite common among the Mayas, 
which we have called the serpent-face. It is round and 
broad, with retreating chin and receding forehead, and with 
curious, widely-separated, expressionless eyes. We had 



312 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

already measured and photographed the subject, but, be- 
cause he was a policeman and had been useful, we thought 
we would not subject him to the operation of bust-making. 
Seeing, however, that no other equally good subject had 
presented itself, we decided to make his bust, and told him 
so. To our surprise he refused. The jefe, for once, acted 
promptly and without hesitation issued an absolute order 
that the man's bust should be made. The order had no 
effect. The officials scolded, threatened, but Modesto Kan 
was immovable. The jefe ordered that he should be 
thrown into jail, which order was promptly obeyed, but all 
to no purpose. Our subject said we might whip him, fine 
him, keep him in jail, or kill him, but he would not have his 
bust made. Hours passed, and neither remonstrance nor 
threats on the part of the jefe or ourselves were of the least 
avail. On my last interview with him, I found him lying 
on a mat with so high a fever that I dared not urge the matter 
further, and we desisted from our efforts to secure him. 
It was the only subject among 3,000 Indians, with whom we 
failed to carry out our work. 

A story which the old judge had told us had its influence 
in my permitting this subject to escape. These Mayas 
often die for spite, or because they have made up their 
mind to do so. Don Manuel at one time was summoned 
by a rich Indian with whom he was well acquainted. The 
man was not old, and had land, good houses, many head 
of cattle, much maize, and many fowls. He had three 
children, and owned the houses near his own in which they 
lived. Everything was prospering with him. Yet the 
message to the judge was that he should come at once to 
hear this Indian's last words. With a companion he has- 
tened to the house, and found the man in his hammock, 
dressed in his best clothes, waiting for them. He seemed 
in perfect health. When they accosted him, he told them 



IN MAYA LAND 313 



he was about to make his will, and say his last words. They 
told him that a man in health had a perfect right to make 
his will, but remonstrated with him for saying that he was 
about to speak his last words. He insisted, however, that 
he was about to die. In vain they argued with him; he 
had had his dream. He gave to one child, house, animals, 
com, poultry; to the second, similar gifts; to the third, the 
same. Then, having bidden them all farewell, he lay down 
in his hammock, took no food or drink, spoke to no one, 
and in six days was dead. Such cases are not uncommon 
among Maya Indians of pure blood. 

When we reached home that night we found Ramon 
unwell. Next day, the last of our stay at Tekax he was suf- 
fering with fever. He had done no work while we were 
absent the day before, and all the packing and doing-up 
of plaster fell upon the others of the party. As for him, 
he collapsed so completely that it scared me. The ordin- 
ary mestizo has no power of resistance; no matter how 
trifling the disease, he suffers frightfully and looks for 
momentary dissolution. It was plain from the first mo- 
ment that Ramon believed that he had the yellow fever; 
instead of trying to keep at work or occupying himself with 
something which would distract his attention, he withdrew 
into the least-aired corner of a hot room and threw him- 
self onto heap of rugs and blankets, in which he almost 
smothered himself, cut off from every breath of fresh air. 
In vain we urged him to exert himself; in the middle of 
the afternoon we took him to the doctor, who assured us 
that the case was in no way serious — at the worst nothing 
more than a. light attack 01 malaria. In the afternoon the 
jeje, neglecting the padre, invited the judge of primera 
instancia and myself to accompany him upon a little expe- 
dition to the neighboring Cave of the Fifth of May. We 
went in a coach, taking Louis, who sat with the driver, as 



JI4 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

photographer; on the way, we visited the town cemetery, 
which we found a dreary place, with no effort at adorn- 
ment and with an air of general neglect. We passed a 
number of places where they were boiling sugar, and at one 
we stopped to see the mode of dipping calabashes for 
dukes ] the fruits are gourd-like, but have considerable 
soft pulp within the thin, hard crust; several holes are bored 
through the external shell and the calabashes, slung by 
strings into groups at the end of a pole, are dipped into the 
boiling sap or syrup; the dipping is done two or even three 
times, and the clusters are removed and allowed to drip and 
dry between dips. The loose flesh is soaked through with 
the syrup, making a rich, sweet mass, much used for des- 
serts. Finally, we turned into another place where sugar 
was being made, and found it the cleanest and neatest of 
its kind. Here we sampled little cakes of clean brown 
sugar, and were treated with similar cakes in which peanuts 
and squash-pips were embedded, making a delicious con- 
fection. We were here supplied with a clean, fresh jicara 
cup, and, walking along the path a few rods, ascended 
slightly to the mouth of the cave, which was far hand- 
somer than we had expected. The limestone of Yucatan 
abounds in caves and subterranean water-courses, espe- 
cially near the base of the ridge already mentioned. The 
mouth of the cavern was fringed with ferns and other 
vegetation. A flight of rustic steps led down to the nearly 
level floor of red cave-earth. The light from outside 
entered sufficiently to show the greater portion of the cave. 
The rock walls, opposite the opening, were brilliantly 
green with some minute growth; from the floor rose a heap 
of stone upon the top of which was set an olla of large size 
to catch the water dripping from the roof; it was full of 
most beautifully clear, cool water, which we dipped out with 
our jicara and drank. At two or three other places on the 




Fkesiilv-dipped Calabashes; near 1 




The Coach that Carried Us to the Station; Tekax 



IN MAYA LAND 



315 



floor, and on projections from the side walls of the cave, 
were other ollas, or broken water-troughs of stone, for 
catching water. Lighting our candles we went behind a 
pendant veil of thick stalagmite. At some spots hummocks 
of snow-white crystalline matter, with a reticulated surface, 
had been deposited by dripping water. A few great masses 
of stalagmite rose from the floor, and there were some 
columns of the same material. On returning from the 
cavern, nothing would do but we must breakfast with the 
je/e, which we did, in state, though at our usual boarding- 
house. 

The three great industries about Tekax are sugar, 
hennequin, and liquor. Father Juan insisted that we should 
visit one of the local distilleries, of which there are fourteen 
in Tekax. Sugar, ground with water into a thick syrup, 
is drawn off from the mill into great vats, where it is per- 
mitted to ferment; it is then taken into the still, where it is 
heated and vaporized, and the vapor carried up into high 
towers for condensation. These three-storied, square, 
wooden towers, with ventilator-shafts, re one of the charac- 
teristic features of the town. 

Padre Juan insisted on supplying a coach for our leaving, 
in the morning. This coach, like those at Merida, was an 
extremely small affair, for a single horse. Under any cir- 
cumstances it would scarcely carry three persons, without 
luggage, besides the driver. When it is remembered that 
our party, (consisting of four), the stout padre, four satchels, 
measuring- rod, tin pan and blankets, made up the load, 
it can be easily appreciated that the little coach was full. 
We rode slowly, and the poor, creaking vehicle threatened to 
fall to pieces every moment, but we reached the station 
safely. It was scarcely ten when we arrived at Merida and 
took our old quarters at the Moromuzo. Our invalid at 
once lay down, and neither threats nor bribes would move 



3i6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

him; he looked as if he suffered, but he insisted on doing 
so; going to the nearest drug store we described his symp- 
toms to the apothecary, who assured us that the case could 
not be serious, and supplied a remedy which was rapid 
and energetic in its action, though our sick man insisted 
that he was not improved. 

We were now but waiting for notice of a vessel sailing 
from Progreso for Coatzacoalcos. Writing, errands, visits, 
filled up the time, but it was dreary waiting. The muddy 
streets, the heavy, moist, fetid air, the outrageous prices, 
the mosquitoes — all combined to make a disagreeable 
experience. We worried through three days, and still no 
announcement of a boat. In a visit made to the bishop, to 
tell him of our kind reception in Tekax and to make in- 
quiry regarding books printed in the Maya, we were again 
warned by the prelate to be most careful of our health; 
that day, he told us, two of our countr3mien, working at the 
electric-light plant, had been stricken with yellow fever 
and would surely die. The second day we were in town 
the boys met Don Poncio, one of the Spanish comrades of 
the padre at Tekax, who, with another of the household, 
had run away, leaving the good priest alone, as the young 
fellow who had been ill in the room next ours developed 
a full case of yellow fever the day we left, and was dead 
before night. 

One day we went to a cenote for a bath. Passing through 
a house into a rather pretty garden, we came to a stairway, 
partly natural and partly cut in the solid rock, which we 
descended; we found ourselves in a natural cave, with a 
pool of blue, transparent water. A paved platform surround- 
ed one side of the cave, and near its rear edge was a bench 
of masonry, which was continued along the side of the 
pool by a similar bench, cut partly from the living rock. 
The water was so clear that we could see, by the light coming 



IN MAYA LAND 



317 



from above, to its very bottom, and could detect little black 
fishes, like bull-heads, against the sand and pebbles. The 
pool was irregular in shape, so that a portion of it was out 
of sight behind the rock-wall, beyond which we found that 
there was a paved floor and benching similar to that in the 
portion which we had entered. We had a delightful and 
refreshing swim in this underground pool, but it was no- 
ticeable that, after we came out into the air, there was no 
evaporation of water from the body, and towels were abso- 
lutely necessary for drying. Such cenotes are found in 
many parts of Yucatan, and form the regular bathing- 
places, and are often the only natural supplies of drinking- 
water. Of streams above ground there are practically 
none in the whole peninsula. 

The last day of our stay in Merida we saw the xtoles. 
These are bands of Indian dancers who go from house to 
house during the carnival season; they are dressed in 
costumes which reproduce some features of the ancient 
Indian dress. In the little company which we saw were 
fifteen dancers, including the standard-bearer; all were 
males, but half of them were dressed like females and took 
the part of such. The male dancers wore the usual white 
camisa and drawers, but these had a red stripe down the side 
of the leg; jingling hawk-bells of tin or brass were attached 
to various parts of their dress; a red belt encircled the 
waist; all wore sandals. The "female" dancers wore 
white dresses of the usual sort, with decorated borders at 
the arm and neck; also necklaces of gold beads and gold 
chains with pendants. Two of the dancers were little 
children, but the rest appeared to be young men up to about 
thirty-five years of age. All wore crowns upon the head; 
these consisted of a circlet of tin, from which rose two curved 
strips, which intersected over the middle of the head; from 
the circlet rose four feathers — either natural or made of 



3i8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 



tin. Two of the crowns of special size, with real feathers, 
marked the king and queen. Under the crowns, covering 
the top of the head and hanging down from the shoulders, 
were gay handkerchiefs of red or blue. All the dancers 
were masked. The men wore bandoliers of cotton, worked 
with bright designs representing animals, birds and geo- 
metrical forms; the square ends of these were hung with 
marine shells. In their hands, the dancers carried curious 
rattles and fans, which they used in making graceful move- 
ments as they danced. The handle of the fan consisted 
of the leg and foot of a turkey, while the body was composed 
of the brilliant and beautifully spotted feathers of the ocel- 
lated turkey, a bird peculiar to Yucatan and the adjacent 
country. There were two musicians, one with a long pitOy 
or j5fe, and the other with a huehuetl or drum, which he struck 
with his hand. Hanging to the side of the drum near the 
top was a turtle-shell, upon which the drummer beat, from 
time to time, with a deer's horn. A standard was carried by 
the company, which bore a representation of the sun, with 
dancers and a serpent; the pole by which it was carried was 
surmounted with a tin disk representing the sun's face. The 
music was apparently of Indian origin and the words of the 
song were Maya. The dancing itself was graceful and 
accompanied by many curious movements. Mr. Thomp- 
son, our American consul to Yucatan, believes this dance is 
ancient, and thinks he has found representations of it painted 
on the walls of ancient ruins at Chichen Itza. 

Merida prides itself upon its carnival, which, it claims, 
ranks third, — Venice and New Orleans alone surpassing it. 
It was admitted that the celebration of this year was far 
below that of others. The cause of this dullness was 
generally stated to be the great amount of sickness prevalent 
in the city. However that may be, it certainly was a tame 
affair. On the 15th two processions took place, one in the 




The Xtoles; Merida 



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The Xtoles; Merida 



IN MAYA LAND 319 

morning, the other in the afternoon;, these were arranged 
by two clubs of young people, and each desired to surpass 
the other. We saw that of the afternoon, and found it not 
particularly interesting. A number of private carriages, 
drawn up in line, passed through the streets; within were 
gentlemen, ladies and children, but few of them wore masks, 
or were otherwise notable; besides these, in the procession, 
were five allegorical cars. One represented a gilded boat 
containing pretty girls; it was arranged to seem to rise 
and fall upon a billowy sea. A second float represented 
the well-known ancient statue, the Chacmool ; an Indian, in 
the attitude of the figure mentioned, held an olla upon his 
breast, while one or two others stood near him as guards 
or companions. The most attractive float was loaded with 
the products of Yucatan, and a group of figures symbolizing 
its industries and interests. Upon the fourth, a female figure 
stood erect in a chariot drawn by lions. The fifth was 
comic, and represented marriage in public and private — 
a vulgar couple indulging in affectionate display before a 
partition, and in a conjugal quarrel behind it. These 
floats were scattered at intervals through the procession, 
which was of no great length. 

By this time Ramon had suffered violent agonies, and 
had become so weak that assistance was needed when he 
walked. The second day in Merida we had sent for a 
competent physician, who assured us that nothing was the 
matter excepting an unimportant attack of bilious fever, 
and that with a day or two of treatment he should be entirely 
recovered. On his second visit he was much irritated, as 
the young man had not made the promised improvement, 
and assured us that there was no cause for his collapse. 
During our first visit to Merida, in hunting through the 
city for Protestants — a practice in which he invariably 
indulged whenever we reached a town of consequence — 



J20 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Ramon had happened on an interesting little man who 
represents the American Bible Society in this district. By 
name Fernandez, this gentleman was born in Argentina, 
educated in Spain, and has served as colporteur in the states 
of Chiapas, Tabasco and Yucatan for upwards of a dozen 
years. He was stout, active, and vivacious; he claimed to 
have been in every town in Chiapas, and gave us much 
advice regarding our journey to that state; he called upon 
us several times during our stay, and shared the general 
disgust over our sick man, who, he assured us, had nothing 
serious the matter, and only needed to arouse himself to throw 
off the bilious attack from which he suffered. On the 
streets we met the baron who had been with us on our 
voyage from Tampico. He told us that after one day in 
Merida, he and his lady decided that they preferred Progreso, 
and were stopping there, going down upon the day-train 
when they wished to visit Merida. He also warned us that 
we need never expect to see the forty dollars which we had 
advanced through the vice-consul, as whatever disposition 
should be made of our complaint regarding customs charges 
by the government, no such money was ever known to leave 
his hands. Following events entirely confirmed this gentle- 
man's dire prophecy ; neither Mr. Thompson nor Seiior Solis 
have paid the least attention to communications regarding 
the matter sent after our return to our own country. It 
is little likely that the Mexican government refused to 
refund the payment; but we shall probably never know. 

The remarks of the baron suggested a new line of action. 
Why longer wait in Merida for our boat? Progreso is 
cleaner, cooler, enjoys a sea breeze, and gives as good living 
for less than half the price we were paying. For comfort, 
for the benefit of our sick man, for the advantage of our 
pocket, we would be better off at Progreso than in Merida. 
While there were cases of smallpox in the little seaport, 



IN MAYA LAND 321 

there were none of yellow fever. In every way it looked 
attractive, and on Monday morning we left, and found 
ourselves, before noon, comfortably located in the curious 
little hotel. La Estrella de Oro, in Progreso. To be sure, 
our rooms were mere stalls, being separated from each 
other by board partitions scarcely eight feet in height, and 
without ceiling, so that it was impossible to escape the con- 
versation in neighboring rooms at night. The table, how- 
ever, was excellent, and the price, compared with what we 
had been paying, economy itself. Having seen my com- 
panions comfortably located, I returned to Merida, where 
there was still some business demanding attention. This 
time I found a room in the Hotel Concordia, which was the 
most comfortable I enjoyed in Merida, although the price 
of $4 for the mere room was high. The day before, we had 
seen the Battle of Flowers of the carnival. No flowers 
figured in it; it consisted of a long procession of carriages, 
mostly private" and mostly good; they were filled with well- 
dressed young people, of whom few were masked ; all were 
supplied with confetti, which was thrown in handfuls by 
those in the carriages upon those in carriages going in the 
other direction, for the procession was double. Usually, 
girls and ladies threw at men and boys, who reciprocated 
the compliment; the ladies had their hair loose and flowing, 
and wore no hats ; so that in a little time it was filled with the 
brilliant bits of paper. Everyone, also, had long strips of 
colored paper, rolled up like ribbons, which were now and 
then launched, either with no direct aim or at some person; 
as these strips unrolled they trailed prettily in the air, and 
everyone caught at the trailing streamers. Crowds of poor 
children chased along, beside and behind the carriages, 
catching at the showers of bits of paper, and at the long 
streamers, which they kept, or, in turn, hurled at passers. 
The balconies of all the better houses were filled with people, 



322 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

as were the seats and raised platform fronting the town- 
house, and those in the balconies and on the seats rained 
down paper upon those in the carriages. Many children in 
the balconies were masked, and wore grotesque costumes, but 
few grown persons were so decked out. While pretty and 
characteristic, the Battle of Flowers disappointed us, lacking 
the life and "abandon" which one usually associates with 
the idea of carnival. It was all reserved, and respectable, 
and unenthusiastic. The only persons who really seemed 
to enjoy it were the poor children, with their loads of bright 
paper and long streamers. Monday afternoon, the most 
striking function of the carnival, so far seen, took place. 
This was an enormous procession of vehicles; private car- 
riages, with elaborate equipment, were filled with finely- 
dressed gentlemen and ladies; common rented coaches were 
in line, and some of them were loaded to their full capacity 
with common people — four, five, or even six, in one; in one 
were four brawny, young cargadors; in another an old 
grandmother, her two daughters, and some grandchildren, 
pure indians, rode complacently, enjoying the admira- 
tion which they knew their best clothes must attract; in 
some of the fine private coaches, no one but Indian nurses 
or favored servants rode. Even here, few of the parties were 
really dashing, lively or beautiful. The whole thing was 
constrained, artificial and sedate. An occasional group 
seemed to really enjoy the occasion. One bony horse 
dragged an ancient buggy or cart, which might well be 
that of some country doctor, and in it was the gentleman 
himself, commonly dressed, but with a whole family of little 
people, who were bubbling over with enjoyment. Another 
happy party was that of a common carter, who had his 
own dray in the line, with his children, neatly but commonly 
dressed, as its only occupants; in two or three carriages 
were maskers, though none of them appeared funny; one 




Carnival at Progreso 




Carnival at Progreso 



IN MAYA LAND :i'22 

drayman's cart had been hired by a crowd of loud and 
boisterous youngsters, who performed all kinds of pranks 
and bawled nonsensical remarks to the crowd. 

My chief errand was to see the leader of the xtoles, to 
purchase from him some of the objects which they had 
used in their dance. Just as I was starting, at evening, 
for the address he had given me, I met Senor Fernandez 
in the plaza, and he agreed to accompany me to the place. 
We went some little distance on the street-car, and, dis- 
mounting at the comer of a narrow lane, were about to start 
through it, when someone touched my companion on the 
arm, and greeted him. He recognized the owner of the 
little shop before which we stood. Heartily invited to enter 
the tienda, we did so and stated the object of our quest. 
The shopkeeper at once said that we must have a lantern, 
as the road was dark, and ordered his clerk to accompany 
us with one, for which we were truly thankful. We came, 
finally, to the house where Don Gregorio, the leader of the 
dancers, lived. Fernandez was friendly and voluble, greet 
ing every company of girls and women that we met, or who 
were at the house, as "lindas,^^ and passing compliments. 
He was, however, uneasy, continually glancing around and 
asking repeatedly when Don Gregorio would appear. The 
dancers were still absent, but expected every moment; 
in fact, we could hear their music in the distance. When, 
finally, they did appear, their leader, who was very drunk, 
insisted that he could not treat in the matter until after 
the next day, which would be the culmination of the carni- 
val, and their chief day for dancing. The instant that we 
received this answer, Fernandez seized the lantern, which the 
clerk had left, and, grasping me by the arm, we started ofiF 
at breakneck pace. As we almost rushed down the stony 
road, he looked furtively to right and left, and told me that 
there were, no doubt, persons in the neighborhood who had 



324 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

recognized him, and said that, more than once, in this very 
neighborhood, he had been stoned when seUing bibles, and 
that any moment we ran our chances of a night attack. 
Apparently, however, people were too much excited over 
carnival to waste their time in baiting Protestants, and we 
heard no whizzing missiles, and soon, reaching the corner 
shop, left the lantern, and went home. There had been 
doubt as to whether trains would run the following day, 
Tuesday, on account of carnival. I found, however, that 
the train on which I had counted, leaving at seven in the 
morning, went as usual, though it was the only train of 
the day for Progreso. My companions were delighted to 
see me, and I found our sick man sure that death was im- 
minent; to tell the truth, he was constantly spitting black 
blood, which oozed from his gums, and which gave me more 
concern than any of his previous symptoms. We found the 
carnival at Progreso more natural and unpretentious, 
but also far more lively and amusing, than anything in 
Merida. To be sure, some of the performances bordered 
on the indecent, but on the whole, it was jolly, and scarcely 
gave cause for Manuel's pious ejaculation that there were 
many abusos. Groups of men and boys went through the 
streets decked with ribbons and flowers, and with their 
faces painted or daubed; many carried handfuls of flour, 
or of blue paint, which they dashed into the faces or over 
the clean clothes of those they met; bands of maskers 
danced through the streets; companies of almost naked 
boys, daubed with colors, played toro with one who was 
inside a frame of wood. One man, completely naked, 
painted grotesquely, pranced through the streets on all 
fours; young fellows, dressed in women's clothes, with faces 
masked or painted, wandered about singly, addressing per- 
sons on the street in a high falsetto voice with all sorts of 
woeful stories or absurd questions. Very pretty was a 



IN MAYA LAND 325 

company of trained dancers, — with a standard, leader, 
music, and fancy costume, — each of whom carried two 
staves in his hands; these performed a variety of graceful 
movements, and sung a song in Spanish; this was interestingly 
like the song of the xtolcs, and the movements were almost 
precisely theirs. In the evening, we attended the baile dc 
los mestizos — dance of the mestizos^ where the elite of the 
little city was gathered, and the place was crowded. Very 
little of it was enough, for while the music and dancing were 
all right, the heat, the tobacco-smoke, and the perfume, 
were overpowering. 

To our joy, on Wednesday, the "Hidalgo" appeared, 
bound for Coatzacoalcos. All day Thursday we waited 
for it to unload its cargo, and on Friday morning, we loaded 
into a little sail-boat at the wharf, which we hired for a 
price far below what the regular steamer would have charged 
to take us to our vessel. The luggage had been weighed 
and valued, and an imposing bill of lading, and an official 
document, had been made out, to prevent our paying duty 
a third time when we should reach our port. At 10:30 
we were on the ''Hidalgo," ready for leaving. It is the 
crankiest steamer on the Ward Line, and dirty in the ex- 
treme. The table is incomparably bad. The one redeem- 
ing, feature is that the first-class cabins are good, and on the 
upper deck, where they receive abundance of fresh air; 
there were plenty of seats for everyone to sit upon the deck, 
a thing which was not true of the "Benito Juarez." Of 
other first-class passengers, there were two harmless Yuca- 
tecan gentlemen — one of whom was seasick all the voyage, 
— and two Americans, brothers, one from St. Louis, Mo., 
and the other from Springfield, 111. The captain of our 
vessel was a Norwegian, the first officer was a Mexican, the 
chief engineer an American, the purser a low-German, the 
chief steward an Oaxaca indian, and the cook a Filipino. 



226 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Never was I so glad to reach a resting-place, never so 
relieved, as when we got our baggage and our sick man safely 
on board. As to the latter, he at once lay down, and, prac- 
tically, was not on his feet during the voyage. We had 
expected to make the run in thirty hours, but were hindered 
by rough weatlier, catching portions of two northers; the 
second was so bad tliat, when almost in sight of our destina- 
tion, we were forced to put to sea again, and lost many hours 
of time and miles of distance. On tlie morning of the 
third day, however, we had dropped anchor, and on looking 
from the cabins at five, caught sight of Coatzacoalcos; but 
it was not the Coatzacoalcos of 1896. Prodigious changes 
had taken place. The Pearson Company, having taken 
possession of tlie railroad, had made great improvements; 
their pretentious general-offices, located at the wharf, had 
recently been completed; the railroad station had been 
improved; the old shack, where we slept in 1S96, had been 
torn dowm, and a construction track occupied its place; on 
the little rise behind, a pretty and large hotel had been 
erected ; on the higher land, to the right, a line of well-built 
houses, making some pretension to architectural effect, 
had been constructed. It was only after landing, and walk- 
ing tlirough the older portions of the town, that any familiar 
scenes were recognized. Though we were ready to land 
at five, and wished to catch the train at seven, w^e were 
forced to wait for the official inspection, and saw the longed- 
for train — and there would be no other for two days — 
pull out before our eyes. Finally, at nine o'clock, we were 
permitted to land. To my surprise, my shipping document 
was called for, but, being produced, we were subjected to 
no difficulty. The balance of the day was spent in wander- 
ing about the village, meeting former acquaintances, at- 
tending to odds and ends of shipment, and strolling on the 
familiar beach, which was still covered with scurrying crabs 



IN MAYA LAND 327 

and sprinkled with white "sand dollars." During the 
night, a terrific norther blew, and the next day, cold, dull 
gray, rainy, kept us indoors. By this time, the purser of 
the "Hidalgo," who had himself had yellow fever, and 
said he was familiar with it, had convinced us that Ramon 
really had had a slight touch of that dread disease, but having 
passed his tenth day of sickness, was destined to recover, 
and would be no serious menace to other people. 



CHAPTER XXIII 

OX-CART EXPERIENCES 
(1901) 

/^N the following morning, at seven, we took the rail- 
^^ road train, and at five at night had reached Tehuan- 
tepec, and were pleasantly located in our old hotel, the 
Europa. On February 28, we visited the market, called 
at the house of the jefe politico for a letter to the town 
authorities of Huilotepec, and visited Dr. Castle, whom 
we found much the same as ever. We failed to find the 
jeje at his office, though we went there several times, but 
found him sitting in a tienda much the worse for drinking. 
He was charmed to see us, embraced us warmly, and told 
us that his thoughts had frequently been with us since our 
former sojourn in his district. New supplies of wine, 
and, on the appearance of certain ladies, of champagne, 
were ordered in witness of his satisfaction. In regard to 
our desires, he was delighted to learn that Louis was shoot- 
ing birds, declaring that we were just in time; that he had 
a damnable order from Mexico to send on skins of all the 
birds of his district for the National Museum, and that he 
had not known what to do in the matter; we must prepare 
them; if we did so, willingly, we should be handsomely 
paid; but if not, he would be compelled to force us. The 
jail was ready, and men die easily in Southern Mexico. 
With this, he made some suggestions that it was easy for a 
person to be officially reported as accidentally killed, or 
dead from vomito. He insisted that we should not go alone 

to Huilotepec, but that he himself would accompany us 

328 




Manuel and an Ignana; Tehuantepec 




Market Women; San Blas 



"t'i 






OX-CART EXPERIENCES 329 

and make sure that everything was done according to our 
wishes. All these dire threats and great promises were 
completely forgotten on the following day, when we sallied 
forth alone. 

In the jeje's office we learned that during the past year 
not only Coatzacoalcos, but Tehuantepec, had suffered 
frightfully from yellow fever. Of course, the disease is no 
rarity on the Gulf coast, though it was never worse than in 
the last season; but in Tehuantepec, and on the Pacific 
coast, it is a thing so rare as to be almost unknown. So 
true is this, that, when it was first reported from this dis- 
trict, the federal government did not believe the story, and 
sent a commission to investigate. We learned that the 
commission arrived at evening, and, finding two persons 
dead in their black vomit on the street, made no further 
investigation, but started for Mexico on the following 
train. The spread of the disease to the west coast is gen- 
erally attributed, and no doubt correctly, to the railroad. 
The disease was particularly fatal, in both places, to Ameri- 
cans and Englishmen, and it was whispered that 90 per 
cent of the employes of the new railroad management suc- 
cumbed. The chief clerk in the jeje^s office told us that, 
while many cases occurred here, no pure indians were 
taken, and that none of the mestizos who were affected 
died — the mortality being confined to the foreigners. 

Dr. Castle had moved, but his place was as interesting 
as ever. For pets, he had three hairless dogs, a mapachtl, 
two macaws, two parrots, and a lot of doves, one of which 
he had taught tricks. He v/as much interested in cactuses, 
and had established a garden in which he planned to have 
all the species of the district. We had purchased some 
iguanas in the market, and Louis had been skinning them. 
The Doctor said that there were three species of iguanas 
in the district, the largest being green, changing to orange 



330 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

or gray, and its flesh not being eaten, as it is too sweet; 
the second species is of medium size, and gray or black in 
color; the third is rarer, smaller, and is striped lengthwise; 
it lives among the rocks near the coast. The two last 
species are both eaten, and are often sold in market. Here 
we learned, by a casual remark which Manuel dropped on 
seeing the ugliest of the hairless dogs, that these are believed, 
not only here, but in Puebla, and no doubt elsewhere through 
the Republic, to cure rheumatism. In order to effect a cure, 
the dog must sleep for three nights with the patient, and the 
uglier the dog the more certain the cure. Through Dr. 
Castle, we also learned that the Zapotec Indians hereabouts, 
have many songs, of which the sandunga is a great favorite. 
Questioning an indian friend of mine, we afterwards learned 
that there are many of these pieces of music which are held 
to be truly indian. The words are largely Zapotec; Spanish 
words are scattered through the song, and the sentiment 
is largely borrowed. Most of the songs are love-songs, 
and they abound in metaphorical expressions. Our little 
trip to Huilotepec was for the purpose of photographing the 
curious and interesting mapa belonging to the village. We 
rode out over the hot and dusty river-bed road, arriving 
at noon. Sending for the agente and secretario, we ordered 
breakfast and made known our errand. Though it plainly 
was not to their taste, the mapa was brought out for our 
inspection. It is painted on a piece of coarse cotton cloth, 
of native weaving, in three colors — blue, red and black. 
The places around Huilotepec are indicated by their ancient 
hieroglyphs. Several personages of the ancient time are 
represented in the conventional manner commonly used in 
Zapotec writings before the Conquest. After eating, we 
placed the mapa against the wall, wrote out a description 
of it, and photographed it. Dismay now filled the soul of 
the agente, and the one principal whom he had summoned 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 331 

for advice. They talked long and earnestly with me about 
the mapa, and begged me to assure the jeje that it was no 
good; that it was not autorizado ; that it was mudo. To 
quiet their fears, I was compelled to write a letter to that 
effect to be delivered to the jeje; if it ever came to hand, 
he certainly found it incomprehensible. Mrs. Seler, in her 
book, describes the trouble that they had in seeing this 
mapa, and the interest which their examination of it aroused. 
Dr. Castle told us that, several years ago, he accompanied 
a Mr. Werner and a priest to Huilotepec to see the mapa, 
and, if possible, to secure a picture of it. For a long time 
they were unable to secure a glimpse of the old document, 
and it was only when the priest assured the indians that 
the doctor was an American engineer, who had been com- 
missioned to survey the line in dispute between the village 
and the Juaves, that they were allowed to see it. Before 
permission was then given, a general meeting of the princi- 
pales was held, and none of the guests were permitted to 
touch the document. Mr. Werner made an exposure, 
which he sent to the States for development; it was lost or 
destroyed. It is thus possible that ours is the only picture 
of it in existence. 

We had been told that a coach went regularly from San 
Geronimo to Tuxtla Gutierrez, making the journey in two 
days. This seemed too good to be true, and no one at 
Tehuantepec knew anything of such an arrangement, but 
we took the train the following morning for San Geronimo, 
hoping to get off without delay. All that the traveller sees 
upon descending from the train is the station, the place of 
Seiior Espindola, and the little Hotel Europa. To our 
surprise, we found that our baggage had not yet come from 
Coatzacoalcos, although we had seen it loaded on the train 
ourselves. Still worse, we were informed that frequently 
fifteen days were consumed in transportation of freight 



332 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

from that point hither, and that we had no right to expect it 
so promptly. Inquiry regarding the coach revealed the 
fact that no such vehicle existed. Six hard days of horse- 
back riding would be necessary for the journey, and, though 
Ramon admitted himself to be much better, he was too weak 
for such an undertaking. This had had its influence in 
determining us to go by coach in the first place. When 
in doubt as to what we should do, Seiior Espindola sug- 
gested that the journey could be made by ox-cart in ten or 
eleven days. Though this seemed slow, it was better than 
to run risks with our invalid, and we determined to journey 
in that fashion as soon as our luggage should appear. 

The station is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, 
constantly swept by heavy winds. While we were there, 
this wind was hot, and loaded with dust. In the afternoon, 
we walked through the Indian town, which extends over 
a considerable area. The houses are rectangular, with 
adobe walls, mostly whitewashed, and with steep, pitched 
roofs. We met a funeral procession in the road, with the 
usual band in front. The coffin open, so as to show the 
child, was carried on the shoulders of several men. The 
mother, in contortions of real or simulated grief, was sup- 
ported by two women, and the mourners brought up the 
rear, wailing now and then. Among the mourners was a 
.jvoman who suffered from black pinto, notably developed. 
The principal industry of the town is pottery. The clay, 
which is of a greyish-black color, is stiff and hard, and is 
first broken up with a mallet. When worked into a stiff 
paste, it is built by hand into great ollas and plates, one and 
a half or two feet in diameter. These ollas we saw at many 
houses, and sometimes they were lashed to carts, plainly 
for bringing water from the stream. A single olla thus 
lashed, practically filled a fair-sized cart. 

The little hotel at the station is a new venture, and 




Drying Pottery; San Geronimo 




Cart and Olla; San Gekunimu 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 2^3 

deserves complete success. At few places in Mexico have 
we found meals so good and cheap. In the evening, more 
from curiosity than expectation, we watched the train come 
from the east, and to our surprise and satisfaction, found 
our luggage. We had really made up our minds that we 
must spend some days in waiting; on the whole, the quiet and 
comfort of the little tavern would not have been unpleasant; 
but we hastened at once to Senor Espindola, and urged 
him to make instant arrangements for our leaving in the 
morning. To this he replied that no carretero would be 
likely to start on Sunday, and that we would have to wait 
until the following day. Matters turned out better than 
anticipated, and before nine, the following morning, our 
arrangements had been made. Two carretas were hired, 
at twenty-eight pesos each, to make the journey; our driver 
agreed that, without counting that day, he could get us 
to Tuxtla in eight days; in order to encourage him, we 
promised to pay five pesos extra for each carreta, in case we 
reached the city of Tuxtla on Monday the nth. His name 
was Eustasio; he was a good-natured little Zapotec, from 
Juchitan originally, but living now at Guviiio, Union Hidalgo. 
He warned us that, for the first day, we would have to put 
up with some discomfort, but that, upon reaching his home, 
he would fit us out magnificently. He promised to start at 
four that afternoon, and we were ready; of course, he was 
not, nor was he at five; so we went back to the hotel for a 
last good supper, and finally at 5:50 started. There were 
four teams and carts in the company, loaded with freight 
for Hidalgo. The night was clear, with a fine moon. The 
road was over heavy sand. Sometimes we walked in the 
moonlight, passing Ixtaltepec at 8:30, and reaching Espinal 
at ten, where we lost three-quarters of an hour in load- 
ing freight. From there all went well, until a-quarter- 
of-two in the morning, when we were passing through a 



334 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

country covered with scrub timber. Here we constantly 
met many carts heavily loaded; the road was narrow, and 
several times collisions, due to the falling asleep of one or 
other of the carreteros, were narrowly escaped. Finally, one 
really did take place, between our second cart and a heavily 
loaded one going in the other direction. The axle of our 
cart was broken, and the vehicle totally disabled. Two 
hours and a quarter were consumed in making repairs and 
in reloading. Here, for the first time, we were impressed 
with two characteristics in our driver: first, his ability 
to swear, surpassing anything that we had ever heard; 
second, his astonishing skill and ingenuity in repairing any 
accident or break, which happened on the road. Before 
our journey was over, we learned that both these qualities 
are common to his profession. It was four o'clock in the 
morning before we were again upon our way. All hope of 
reaching Union Hidalgo at the promised hour disappeared. 
Before sunrise, we had turned into the hot, dusty, broad, 
straight high-road, which, after my journey of 1896, I had 
devoutly hoped never to see again. Just as the sun rose, we 
took quite a walk, killing some parrots, calandrias, and chaca- 
laccas as we walked. They said that javali — peccaries, 
— were common there. The day was blisteringly hot, 
long before we reached Union Hidalgo; hot, hungry and 
sleepy, we reached our carter's home, a little before ten in 
the morning. The carreta in which we were travelling was 
here far ahead, and after we had rested half-an-hour or more, 
Manuel, hot and perspiring, appeared, and reported that the 
disabled cart had broken down again, and that the other 
two were delayed by a sick animal. All came straggling 
in later. We had planned to leave here toward evening, 
travelling all Monday night; but hardly had we rested a 
little, and eaten dinner, when Eustasio announced that we 
should spend the night here, and not leave until the following 




TuK Dkunkaku's Exchangk; Union IIidai.gu 




iilil'UKK RlOACHlNi; UnIUN lllUAlAiC) 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 335 

afternoon. He said the animals were hot and tired from 
travelling in the daytime, and that to push on would defeat 
our plans. He swore that, unless God decreed otherwise, 
we should reach Tuxtla Gutierrez by the promised date. 
There was nothing for it but submission, though we would 
gladly have chosen a more interesting town than Union 
Hidalgo for a stay of almost two days. When evening 
came, I took my bed of poles out into the open air, into the 
space between two houses; Ramon lay down upon a loaded 
carreta, also out of doors, while Louis and Manuel took 
possession of hammocks in one of the houses. It was a 
cloudless night, with brilliant moon. The air soon grew 
cool. After midnight, I was aroused by the most frightful 
yelling, and opening my eyes, I saw a barefooted, bare- 
headed Indian yelling out the most frightful imprecations 
and oaths. At first I thought that he was insulting some one 
in the house, but both the houses were fast closed. Ramon, 
completely wrapped in his blanket, could attract no notice, 
and I did not believe that I had been observed, nor that I 
was addressed. For quite ten minutes the crazy drunkard 
stood there in the moonlight, bawling out a frightful torrent 
of abuse, invective, and profanity, with an occasional 
"Fwa Mexico! Muere Guatemala!'' patriotically thrown 
in. At last he disappeared, but for a long time could be 
heard howling, as he went from house to house. Believing 
that it might be well to be prepared for intruders, I arose 
and pulled a stake from one of the carts, and laid it at my 
side, upon the bed. But I was soon fast asleep again. 
Awaking at five, I found myself so cold, and the dew so 
heavy, that I dressed, and wrapped my blanket around me, 
and sat up, waiting for daylight. At 5 130 our drunken friend 
passed again, somewhat less voluble, but still vociferous. 
He was absolutely crazed with drink, and through the day 
several times made his appearance, and always with a 



3^6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

torrent of abuse and profanity which made one's blood 
run cold. Before the day was well begun, a second person, 
almost as drunk, but far more quiet, a nice-looking old man, 
began making similar visits about the village. The two 
drunkards, differing in age and build, differed also in dress, 
but on the occasion of one of their visits, they were taken 
with the crazy notion of exchanging clothes, and proceeded 
to undress, making the exchange, and re-clothing them- 
selves in garments ridiculously non-fitting — all with the 
utmost gravity and unsteadiness. During the day, our 
carretas were being prepared. Apologizing for the incon- 
venience of the preceding day, Eustasio proposed to fix 
our cart "as fine as a church." He put a decent cover 
over it, and laid our sacks of plaster on the floor. Upon 
this, he spread a layer of corn-stalks, and over them, a new 
and clean petate. To be sure, the space left above was 
low for comfort, and we were horrified when we saw him 
loading up the second one, not only with the balance of our 
luggage, but high with maize, fodder, and great nets of ears 
of com, to feed the animals. We had supposed that two 
persons and part of the luggage would go in each of the 
carts, and never thought of carrying food enough to last 
four oxen eight days. Crowding four people into our 
carreta made it impossible to lie down in comfort. Still, 
such is the custom of the country, and we submitted. Dur- 
ing the day we heard a woman crying in a house. Upon 
investigating, we found that she was the wife of a carretero 
who had been injured on the road, and for whom a carreta 
had been sent. Shortly afterward, they brought the poor 
fellow into town, amid weeping and lamenting. When they 
took him from the carreta in which he had been brought, 
he was supported by two men and helped into the house, 
where he was laid upon a hammock. He groaned with pain, 
and a crowd of curious villagers pressed into the room. 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 337 

It was easy to locate four broken ribs behind, and he com- 
plained of great internal bleeding. It seemed that he had 
started to climb up onto his moving cart in the usual way, 
and the stake which he had seized broke, letting him fall 
to the ground under the wheel of the heavily-loaded cart, 
which passed over his body. 

Finally, all was ready, and at about five in the evening 
we started. Packed like sardines in a box, we were most 
uncomfortable. Personally, I did not try to sleep, neither 
lying down, nor closing my eyes. Shortly after leaving town, 
we crossed a running stream, and from the other side went 
over a piece of corduroy, upon which we jounced and jolted. 
Soon after, we descended into a little gully, from which our 
team had difficulty in drawing us. The baggage-cart had a 
more serious time; the team made several attempts to drag it 
up the slope, but failed, even though our whole company, 
by pushing and bracing, encouraging and howling, aided. 
There was a real element of danger in such help, the slip- 
ping animals and the back-sliding cart constantly threat- 
ening to fall upon the pushers. Finally, the cart was propped 
upon the slope, and its own team removed ; our team, which 
was heavier and stronger, was then hitched on, but it was 
only with a hard tug, and with heavy pushing, that success 
was gained, and the cart reached the summit of the slope. 
We crossed a fine marsh of salt water, quite like the lagoon 
at San Mateo del Mar, and were told that we were not far 
from the Juave town of San Dionisio. From here, the 
country, was, for a distance, an open plain. With the moon- 
light, the night was almost as bright as day; cold winds 
swept sheets of sand and dust over us. At one o'clock, we 
happened upon a cluster of six or eight carts, drawn up for 
rest, and the company of travellers were warming themselves 
at little fires, or cooking a late supper. We learned that 
this gypsy-like group was a compania comica, a comic 



338 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

theatre troupe, who had been playing at Tuxtla, and were 
now on their way to Juchitan. We never before realized 
that such travelling of ox-carts as we were now experiencing 
was a regular matter, and that the carter's trade is a real 
business. At two o'clock, we stopped to repack our loads, 
but were shortly on the way again. After the sun rose, we 
were in misery; the road was deep with dust, and we were 
grimy, hot, and choking. When the cross that marks the 
beginning of the land belonging to Ixhuatlan was pointed 
out, we were delighted, but it was still a long ride before 
we crossed the little stream and rode into the villlage. 

Ixhuatlan is like all the Zapotec towns of this district, 
but less clean, on account of its lying in the midst of dust, 
instead of sand. Our carts drew up in a little grove, a 
regular resting-place for carting companies, where more 
than fifteen were already taking their daytime rest. Hav- 
ing ordered breakfast, we hastened to the stream, where all 
enjoyed a bath and cleansing. Coffee, bread, tortillas^ 
eggs, and brandied peaches, made a good impression, and 
we ordered our buxom young Zapotec cook, who was a 
hustler, to have an equally good dinner ready at 2:30. 
We set this hour, believing that she would be late, but she 
was more than prompt, and called us at two to a chicken 
dinner. It was interesting to watch the carreteros in the 
grove. The scenes of starting and arriving, packing and 
unpacking, chaffing and quarreling, were all interesting. 
In the lagoons of Vera Cruz, our boatmen applied the term 
Jornada to a straight stretch across a lagoon made at one 
poling; here among the carreteros, the word Jornada means 
the run made from resting-place to resting-place. In 
neither case is strict attention paid to the original meaning 
of the word, a day's journey. Ixhuatlan is a made town; 
a paternal government, disturbed over the no progress of the 
pure Juaves in their seaside towns, set aside the ground on 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 379 

which this town now rests, and moved a village of Juaves 
to the spot. High hopes were expressed for the success 
of the experiment; now, however, the town is not a Juave 
town. It is true, that a few families of that people still 
remain, but for the most part, the Juaves have drifted back 
to the shore, and resumed their fishing, shrimp-catching 
and salt-making, while the expansive Zapotecs have crowded 
in, and practically make up the population of the place. 
Between dinner and our starting, we wandered about the 
village, dropping into the various houses in search of relics. 
As elsewhere, we were impressed with the independent 
bearing and freeness of the Zapotec woman. She talks 
with everyone, on any subject, shrewdly. She loves to 
chaff, and is willing to take sarcasm, as freely as she gives 
it. In one house we had a specially interesting time, being 
shown a lot of things. The woman had some broken pot- 
tery figures of ancient times, but also produced some inter- 
esting crude affairs of modem make from Juchitan. These 
were figures of men and women — the latter generally 
carrying babies in Indian fashion — of horses and other 
animals. As works of art, they make no pretension, but 
they are stained with native colors, and are used as gifts at 
New Year's by the common people. Here we saw the mak- 
ing of baked tortillas, and sampled some hot from the oven. 
Such tortillas are called tortillas del homo — oven tortillas. 
Flat tortillas, about the size of a fruit-plate, are fashioned 
in the usual way; a great olla is sunk in the ground until 
its mouth is level with the surface. This is kept covered 
by a comal, or a smaller olla, and a good hot fire of coals is 
kept burning within. When the tortillas have been shaped, 
they are stuck on the hot olla, being pressed against the 
sides, to which they adhere, and are left to bake. In bak- 
ing, the edges curl up so that the cake, instead of being 
flat, is saucer-shaped. They are crisp and good. Leaving 



340 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

at four, we continued on the hot, deep, dusty road, but saw 
interesting plants and animals along the way. There were 
fine displays of the parasitic fig, from examples where the 
parasite was just beginning to embrace its victim, through 
cases where it had surrounded the tree with a fine network 
of its own material, to those where the original tree-trunk 
was entirely imbedded in the great continuous gray invest- 
ing trunk of the parasite, now larger than its host. Some 
trees bore bunches of pale-purple flowers of tubular form, 
which fell easily from the calyx, and dotted the ground along 
the roadside. Other trees appeared as if covered with 
veils of little purplish-red flowers hung over them. Others 
were a mass of golden bloom, the flowers being about the 
size of cherry blossoms. A few trees, yet leafless, showed 
large, brilliant white flowers at the tips of rather slender 
branches. At Ixhuatlan, we saw the first monkey's comb 
of the trip. This orange-yellow flower, growing in clusters 
so curiously shaped as to suggest the name, is among the 
most characteristic, from this point on through Chiapas 
into Guatemala. There were but few birds, but among 
them were macaws and toucans. Eustasio said that in the 
season, when certain berry-bearing trees are in full fruit, 
the latter may be seen by hundreds. 

When night had really fallen, I unwisely sat in front 
with the driver, to prevent his sleeping, and to keep the ani- 
mals moving. Both drivers had a way of dozing off, utterly 
regardless of the movements of the animals or the dangers 
of the road. Carts going in opposite directions must often 
depend absolutely upon the oxen for their chance of 
escaping collisions or being thrown over precipices. 
Frequently the animals themselves stop, and the whole 
company is at a standstill until the driver wakes up. In 
this Jornada, we had planned to reach La Frontera, the 
border of the state of Chiapas, at which place we had been 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 341 

promised we should arrive at 8:30 in the morning. Every- 
thing had gone well, and we were just about to reach the 
place, where it was planned to repack for the last time; it 
was just daylight, and Eustasio was congratulating us upon 
our prompt arrival; we drove to the brink of a dry stream, 
on the other side of which was our resting-place; just at 
that instant, we heard the other driver cry out; we stopped, 
and found that the baggage-cart was overturned. This 
dashed all hopes. There was unhitching, unloading, the 
making of a new axle, and reloading. It was plain that 
we could not reach La Frontera. While the men were 
putting things to rights, we strolled up the dry stream-bed 
to a shanty, where Eustasio told us we could breakfast. 
There was a well there, with fresh water, and the shanty, 
for the refreshment of travellers, consisted of nothing but 
a little shelter of poles. Here, however, we found baked 
tortillas, atole, and hard meat; the breakfast for four per- 
sons, cost twenty-five centavos, equal to ten cents American 
money. Through the day, birds were hunted and skinned, 
reading and writing carried on, until at half-past-three in 
the afternoon we were again ready for movement. The 
road was now sandy, and not dusty, the sand being pro- 
duced by the decomposition of crystalline rocks. Mount- 
ing to a high llaJio, we shot a pair of curious birds, which 
looked like water-birds, but were living in a dry place and 
were able to run with great speed. They were of the size 
of a hen, and had a long beak, long legs and four flat though 
not webbed toes. At the end of this high llano, we passed 
the Hacienda of Agua Blanca, a property belonging to the 
jeje of Juchitan. From here, we descended rapidly over 
a poor road, coming out at nine onto the straight road from 
Tapanatepec, at this point four leagues behind us. From 
here on, the whole road was familiar to me. La Frontera 
was just ahead, and, arriving there at 10 o'clock, we spent 



342 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

an hour. Before us rose a massive mountain, the ascent 
of which seemed appalling. We could see a white line of 
road zigzagging up its side, and well remembered Governor 
Leon's pride in having constructed a cart-road against 
great natural difficulties. Thirty or forty ox- teams had 
gathered here, either ready to make the ascent, or resting, 
after having come down the mountain. Having gotten 
breath and courage, we started at about eleven. The road 
had suffered during the five years since I last passed over 
it, but was still an excellent work of engineering. As we 
mounted, zigzagging constantly, the magnificent view over 
the valley widened; each new turn increased its beauty. 
My companions were asleep, and had had so little rest 
recently, that I hated to disturb them for the view. When, 
however, we were two-thirds up the slope, they awakened, 
and were as delighted as myself. We all got out, and 
walked for a considerable distance. An astonishing num- 
ber of little streams and pools of fresh water burst forth 
from the rocks, and cut across the road or flowed along its 
sides. Finally, we reached the summit, and began the de- 
scent. This had made no impression on me when I went 
over it on horseback, but travelling in an ox-cart was a 
different matter, and I shall never again forget it. It was 
less abrupt than the ascent — less of vertical zigzag, and 
more of long steady windings. It also was excavated in 
the solid rock. It was badly neglected, and the cart jolted, 
and threatened every instant to upset us, or leap into the 
gulf. Coming out into a more level district, we passed 
Paraje and Dolores, reaching Carizal at five, where we 
stopped for the day. This is a regular resting place for 
carreteros, and there were plenty of carts there for the day. 
As soon as the oxen were unyoked, I turned out my com- 
panions and lay down in the cart, trying to get an hour's 
sleep before the sun should rise, as I had not closed my 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 343 

eyes since leaving Union Hidalgo two days before. I was 
asleep at once, but in less than an hour was awakened by 
the assaults of swarms of minute black-flies, whose stings 
were dreadful. The rest of the company suffered in the 
same way, so we all got up and went to work. A group of 
carreteros breakfasting, invited me to eat with them — 
hard tortillas, atole and salted meat, formed a much better 
breakfast than we got, a little later, at the house upon the hill 
where travellers eat their meals. At this house they had a 
little parrot which was very tame, and also a chacalacca, 
which had been hatched by a domestic hen from a cap- 
tured egg. This bird is more slender and graceful than a 
hen, but our landlord informed us that its eggs are much 
larger than those of the common fowl, and much used for 
food. Both this bird and the little parrot regularly fly off 
with flocks of their wild fellows, but always come back 
afterward to the house. This was a most interesting example 
of an intermediate stage between true wildness and domes- 
cation. There was little doing throughout the day. Heat, 
black-flies, and sunlight all made it impossible to sleep; but 
we took a bath in the running brook, and skinned some 
birds, and tasted posole for the first time. Posole is a mix- 
ture of pounded or ground corn and sugar, of a yellow or 
brownish color, much like grape-nuts. It may be eaten dry, 
but is much more commonly mixed with water. The Indian 
dips up a jicara full of clear spring water, and then, taking 
a handful of posole from his pouch, kneads it up until a 
rather thick, light-yellow liquid results, which is drunk, 
and is refreshing and satisfying. 

Almost all the carreteros at this camp were Juchitecos. 
They were great, strong fellows, and almost all of them wore 
the old-fashioned Indian breech-clout of red cotton under 
their drawers or trousers. When they were working at their 
carts, greasing the wheels, or making repairs, they were apt 



344 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

to lay by all their clothing but this simple piece of cloth, 
and their dark-brown bodies, finely muscled, hard and 
tough, presented handsome pictures. The little fellows 
who accompanied them, up to the age of twelve, usually 
ran about with no article of clothing save their little breech- 
clouts and white cotton shirts. In the early afternoon, 
serious work began, and everywhere we saw these men 
patching coverings, greasing wheels, readjusting cargoes, 
feeding and watering their animals, harnessing, and making 
other preparations for leaving. During the idle portion 
of the day, dice were in evidence, and Eustasio was fas- 
cinated with the game. The stakes, of course, were small, 
but he kept at it persistently until he had lost five pesos, 
when, with forcible words, he gave up. I am sure the 
dice were loaded, but I am equally sure, from all I know 
of Eustasio, that the next time he makes that journey, he will 
have some loaded dice himself. Setting out at 3:30, we 
were at the head of a long line of cars, and were soon mak- 
ing another steady zigzag to ever greater heights than those 
before climbed. According to the official itinerario, the 
distance from Dolores to San Miguel is five leagues; we 
had left Dolores a league behind in arriving at Carizal, and 
we naturally assumed that four leagues would bring us to 
San Miguel. Eustasio, however, who never under-esti- 
mated, claimed that it would take constant travelling until 
eight in the morning to reach Los Pinos, which is still this 
side of San Miguel. This is a fair example of the inaccur- 
acy of figures published by the government. As I looked 
behind at the long line of carts, some of which were empty, 
and able to journey at good speed, the desire took posses- 
sion of me to hire one, at least for a short distance, in the 
hope of getting a little sleep. Looking over the line, to 
make my choice, I had just selected one, and was about to 
broach my plan, when its driver ran the vehicle into the 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 345 

branches of a tree, which projected over the road, and tore 
away his awning. The idea was unaffected by this acci- 
dent, however, and picking out a cart, which had a thick 
layer of corn-husks piled in it, promising a comfortable 
bed, I arranged my bargain with the owner, and deserted 
my party, betaking myself to my private car. Having no 
load, we pushed ahead and, stretching myself at full length 
upon the heap of corn-husks, I was soon asleep. It was 
my purpose to disembark at Los Pinos, but we had passed 
that place long before I awoke, and were in sight of San 
Miguel when I opened my eyes. It was too early for break- 
fast, so I concluded to ride along to Macuilapa, where my 
carter turned off into another road. It was just eight when 
we arrived, and I thought of my companions as probably 
just reaching Los Pinos. Starting from there at three in the 
afternoon, they should overtake me at seven. So I took 
possession of the great country-house, sitting in the corri- 
dor all day long. The house is a long, large, single-storied 
building, with heavy tiled-roof; the store-houses, sheds and 
other out-houses, with the adobe huts belonging to the work- 
men, surround a somewhat regular area. The view, how- 
ever, in front of the house is uninterrupted, and looks off 
into a narrow valley, bounded prettily by hills. The house 
has a wide brick-paved corridor. Near it was an interest- 
ing ancient stone carving. The rock was coarsely crystal- 
line, and gray, or olive-gray in color. It had been battered 
into the bold, simple outline of a frog, crouched for leaping; 
the head had an almost human face, with a single central 
tooth projecting from the lower jaw. The work was in low 
relief, and looked as if the ancient workman had taken a 
natural boulder, and beaten with his hammer-stone only 
sufficiently to bring out the details. The stone measured 
perhaps four feet in length, three feet in breadth, and two 
feet in thickness. It was found in the mountains near, and, 



J46 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

from the marks upon it, seems to have been embedded in 
the soil half way up the legs. Probably, when first made, 
it was placed so that the feet were even with the ground 
surface, but the accumulation of vegetable soil since has 
been considerable. The Hacienda of Macuilapa manu- 
factures sugar and raises indigo, quantities of the seed of 
which were being cleaned when I was there. The owner 
of the place is a man of means, but the meals served were of 
a mean and frugal kind. Everyone made dire prophecies 
about the time of possible arrival of my companions, 
and the period necessary for our further journey to 
Tuxtla Gutierrez. I had not expected my companions 
before seven, and after these dismal forebodings, gave up 
that expectation. To my surprise, they appeared, in good 
health and spirits, at five o'clock, though with exciting tales 
of peril and suffering. After a meal together, we again 
mounted in the old fashion, and were on our way. The 
air was fresh and cool, and at 9 130 the moon rose, giving 
perfect light. The road was high and sandy, with occasional 
small ascents and descents. At eleven, we stopped to rest, 
I agreeing to wake them all at midnight; at one o'clock 
I was awakened by our carretero raising the tongue of the 
wagon! We passed La Razon at three. As one of the 
oxen, which had been somewhat lame, was now in bad con- 
dition, we all dismounted, half-a-league before we reached 
Zapote, and walked the rest of the way. The Hacienda of 
Zapote is really almost a town. There are tv\^o fincas, be- 
longing to two brothers. Their fine large houses, the out- 
buildings, and the clusters of adobe huts for the workmen, 
make an imposing appearance. We stopped at the first 
group of buildings, which stands a little lower than the other. 
Arriving at six, we spent the whole day at this place; the 
meals at the great house were excellent and cheap. In 
the afternoon we heard marimba-playing; the instrument 




' •* -*"'V> 



A Day Rest; the Carizal 




Marimba-Playing; Hacienda de Zapote 



jl 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 347 

was called la golondrina and cost the owner forty-three 
pesos. The players were carefully trained, being four 
brothers. The youngest of them was not more than four- 
teen years old, but he put much expression and spirit into 
his playing. It was the first time that any of the party, 
but myself, had heard this instrument, and all were de- 
lighted at its brilliant, quick, and pleasing music. We left 
at 3:45 in the afternoon, but our ailing animal was worse 
than ever, and Eustasio ran ahead, trying to secure others 
at different ranches. He had had no success when, after 
a rough ride of several hours, we drew up at Jiquipilas, 
where we waited until the morning. We planned to secure 
new animals, to leave at dawn, and to reach Tuxtla after a 
twenty-four hour ride. We laid down and slept, waking 
at five, but finding no sign of animals. We breakfasted at 
seven, and a little later the new oxen appeared. There were 
two yokes of rather light animals. Leaving our sick beast, 
and driving the other three along with us, the new animals 
were put to the loads, and at eight o'clock we started. I 
failed to recognize Rancho Disengafio, but having passed 
it, we found ourselves at the bottom of the much-dreaded, 
last important climb of the journey. The little team drag- 
ging the passenger cart was inefficient and unruly; tiring 
of them, I dismounted and went ahead on foot. For a time 
I drove the unyoked cattle, but a stubborn one wandering 
into the brush, I gave up the job, and left poor Louis, who 
had just overtaken me, to chase him. He had hard work, 
through tangled brush, here and there, up and down, until 
at last the animal was once more upon the road. The boy 
was hot, tired, and loaded with pinolillos. These insects 
had been in evidence for a long time back. They are ex- 
ceedingly small ticks, which fix their claws firmly in the flesh, 
and cause intolerable itching. Keeping in the road, the 
traveller is little likely to be troubled by them; but walk- 



348 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ing through grass, or among leafy plants, is dangerous. 
Having climbed a portion of our great ascent, we found 
ourselves at Agua Bendita. It was not as beautiful as on 
the occasion of my other visit; the projecting ledge of rock 
had little water dripping, and in the round catch-basins, 
which formerly were filled with fresh, clear water, there 
was scarcely any; on account of the unusual dryness, the 
ferns were wilted, and there was little of that beauty and 
freshness which so delighted me before. Eustasio said 
that he had never seen the spot so dry in all his many jour- 
neys. Nor were there orchids blooming on the great tree 
near; nor any of the little toucans which had been so 
attractive in 1896. As we stood, seeking for these well- 
remembered things, we heard curious cries rising from 
the valley. At first, I thought it was Indians wailing for 
the dead; then, that it was a band of pilgrims singing. 
But it turned out to be a company of cowboys, bringing 
cattle up for shipment to Tabasco. Some rode ahead, 
and, with loud but not unmusical cries, invited and urged 
the animals and their drivers to follow. The beasts were 
divided into three bands, thirty or forty in a band, each 
of which had its mounted drivers. The animals were 
lively, and we were warned that they were muy bravo. 
Manuel had taken the task of driving our loose cattle, 
and was fearful that he would be overtaken, asserting that 
the cowboys had said that he must keep on, as they could 
not pass him with their animals. When he came up to 
where we were, we put a quick end to his folly, driving 
our three oxen to the outer edge of the road, where Louis 
and he stood guard over them, while I crept up on the 
cliff to avoid scaring the animals that were coming. It 
took much driving, urging, and coaxing on the part of the 
cowboys to get the first two or three to pass us, but 
after they had led the way, the others followed with a rush. 




Moving the Grkat Stone; Agua Bendita 



OX-CART EXPERIENCES 349 

Presently our passenger-cart came along, with both teams 
of oxen hitched to it ; the new animals had proved too light 
to drag their proper loads, so the freight-cart had been left 
behind, and the full force employed in dragging the first cart 
up the hill. Just beyond this spot, we found a gang of 
Indians, under a superintendent, prying off an immense 
rock mass that had fallen from the cliff above onto the road, 
with the intention of dumping it over the wall into the 
abyss. It would have been a sight to have seen it plunge, 
but we had no time to wait, so simply stopped a few min- 
utes to see the method of moving the immense mass with 
pole pries. Our cart had gone ahead, so we finished the 
ascent on foot, and having gained the summit, walked a 
short distance on the high plateau to Petapa, where the 
cart and carretero, Manuel and Ramon, were waiting. 
Before we arrived, we met our men going back with the 
four oxen for the freight-cart. We had supper at the ranch, 
and waited, until at six o'clock everything was ready. Here 
we sent back the two yokes of animals which we had 
brought from Jiquipilas, and secured a fine, strong beast 
to make up our number, and started. We did not stop to 
grease the wheels, for lack of time. It was dark, and the 
first part of the journey was uncertain and difficult; com- 
ing out on to the Llano Grande, we found things easy, 
though here and there were stony places, where we jolted 
fearfully. At 10:30, we had passed La Cienega, and our 
ungreased wheels were not only an annoyance, but, Eus- 
tasio suggested, a source of danger, as they might take fire. 
So, at 11:30, we stopped to grease them. As the axles 
and wheels were then too hot for grease to be safely applied, 
we lay down while they should cool. Probably in less than 
five minutes, we were all asleep, and no one moved until, 
waking with a start and looking at my watch, I found it 
two in the morning. We hastily applied grease, without 



350 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

removing the wheels, and hurried onward, passing Sabine 
Perez, Yerba Santa, and Sabinal. Here, the errors in our 
itinerario, and in our driver's guessing at distances, were 
curiously emphasized. We had a rather heavy descent, 
for some distance, over a limestone hill called Santo Do- 
mingo. Nowhere do I know of any road which, under the 
best of circumstances, seems as long as the last stretch before 
Tuxtla Gutierrez. This we had noticed on our earlier journey, 
when we were mounted on horseback. Present conditions 
were not likely to diminish the impression. At last, at ii 130 
in the morning of March 12, we reached the capital city of 
the State of Chiapas, and were taken by our carretero to the 
little old Hotel Mexico, kept by Paco, where we met a hearty 
welcome and, for several days, made up for the hardships 
of our journey in the way of eating. 



CHAPTER XXrV 

AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 
(1901) 

T^T'E knew that Governor Pimentel was not at home, 
^ ^ having met him in Coalzacoalcos, where we had 
presented our official letters, and had received from him 
a communication to his Lieutenant-Governor, Lopez. 
Having spent the afternoon in settling and cleaning, I 
called in the evening upon Governor Lopez and explained 
my needs. After chatting a little time together, he in- 
quired whether I had not made the steamboat journey 
from Coalzacoalcos to Vera Cruz in March, 1896, and, 
upon my answering in the affirmative, told me that we had 
been fellow-travellers on that occasion. He promised that 
there should be no delay, and made an appointment with 
me for the morning. I then called on Don Conrado Pala- 
cios, who lived directly opposite our little tavern, and who 
claimed that he recognized me the moment I dismounted 
from our cart this morning. He is still photographer, 
but for three years of the time since last we met has been 
living in the State of Vera Cruz, and but lately returned to 
Tuxtla. In the morning. Governor Lopez supplied the 
letters for my further journey, and summoned the jefe 
politico and the presidente of the city and gave them per- 
sonal orders that they were to assist, in every way, my work 
at Tuxtla, among the Zoques. The jefe himself took 
charge of my arrangements, put his office at my disposition 
for a workshop, and the work began at once. Contrary to 
my usual experience, we had less difficulty in securing 

351 



J52 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

female subjects here than male. The male Indians of 
Tuxtla are, in large part, employed in contract labor on 
fincas at a distance from the town. According to their 
contract, they are not subject to the order of local authorities, 
and may not be summoned without permission of their 
employers, or a pecuniary settlement with them. The first 
day, more than half the women were measured, and the second 
day, the rest. As is well known the women of Tehuan tepee 
are famous for their beauty. It is not so well known that 
rivalry exists between them and the women of Tuxtla in 
this matter. This rivalry had been called to our attention 
on our preceding visit, and we found that it had in no wise 
abated. Personally, we saw no comparison between the 
two sets of women, the Tehuantepecanas being far superior. 
Eustasio, however, ungallantly and unpatriotically declared 
that he thought the women of Tuxtla the handsomer; how- 
ever, we suspect that Eustasio would find the women of any 
town he might be in, the champions in beauty for the time 
being. Their dress is picturesque. The enagua is made of 
two strips of dark blue cloth, sewed together, side by side, 
with a fancy stitching of colored silks. The free borders 
are also decorated with similar stitching, and the ends of 
the strip, which is usually more than two yards in length, 
sewn together with similarly decorative needlework. In 
fastening this garment about the body, no belt is used. 
The open bag is gathered in about the waist, the surplus 
is folded into pleats in front and the overlap, at the upper 
edge, is so tucked in as to hold the garment tightly in place, 
and at the same time form a pouch, or pocket, in which 
small articles are carried. The little hn^ipil, worn upon the 
upper body, is of thin, white cotton cloth, native-woven, 
but a neat and pretty stuff; there are no sleeves, and the 
neck-opening and arm-slits are bordered with pleated 
strips of cotton, worked with black embroidery. A larger 



AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 353 

huipil is regularly carried, but we never saw it in use; 
practically, it never is worn. If put in place, it would form 
a garment for the body, with the neck-opening and sleeves 
bordered with lace, and the lower edge reaching to the 
knees. The woman carries this garment with her, folding 
it into a sort of pad, which she places on her head, letting 
it hang down upon the back and shoulders. Upon this 
cushion, the woman carries a great bowl, made from the 
rind of a sort of squash or pumpkin, in which she brings her 
stuff to market. These vessels are a specialty of the neigh- 
borhood, being made at Chiapa; they are richly decorated 
with a lacquer finish, of bright color. In carrying a baby, 
the child is placed against one side of the body, with its little 
legs astride, one in front and one behind, and then lashed 
in place by a strip of cloth, which is knotted over the woman's 
opposite shoulder. Almost every Zoque woman is asym- 
metrical, from this mode of carrying babies, one shoulder 
being much higher than the other. Among the subjects 
measured, was a woman notable in several ways. She 
was the fattest Indian woman we had ever seen; she was 
the richest of her kind, and not only were her garments 
beautiful in work and decoration, but she was gorgeous with 
necklaces, bristling with gold coins and crosses; more 
than this, she was a capital case of purple pinta. The 
disease is common among the Indians of the town, and, 
while both the red and white forms are found, purple 
seems to be the common type. Sometimes the face looks as 
if powder-burned, the purple blotch appearing as if in 
scattered specks; at other times, the purple spots are con- 
tinuous, and the skin seems raised and pitted. 

It appears that the adjusting of family quarrels and 
disputes between friends are among the duties of the jeje. 
In the office that day, a quarrel was settled involving two 
young men related by blood and by comradeship; a 



354 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

woman and a man of middle age were also interested; the 
quarrel had been a serious one, involving assaults, am- 
bushes, and shootings. The jefe first summoned each of 
the four persons singly, going over the whole matter with 
each one; the more intelligent of the two combatants was 
first to be reasoned with; then the woman was called in and 
he and she were left together in the office. For a long time, 
they would not even speak to each other. Finding this 
condition, the jeje reasoned with them, and warned them 
that they must come to some conclusion, after which he 
left them to themselves again. At first they would not speak, 
but finally held a conversation, and came to an under- 
standing; the old man was then called in and made to talk 
the matter over with the two, who had already been in 
conference. Lastly, the more belligerent youth was sum- 
moned, the jeje remaining in the room with the whole 
party. At first he would not speak, but finally his pride 
and anger gave way, and he shook hands with his cousin, 
and the whole party left, after promising the jeje that the 
past should be forgotten. 

The first afternoon that we were working, a curious 
couple came to the jeje^s office. The woman was not 
unattractive, though rather bold and hard in bearing. She 
was dark, pretentiously made-up, and rather elegantly 
dressed. The gentleman was a quiet, handsome fellow, 
dressed in sober black. When they sailed in, I supposed 
they were the jeje^s personal friends. Sitting down, they 
showed interest in my work, and the lady in a rather strident 
voice, but with much composure, addressed us in English. 
Her knowledge of our language, however, proved to be 
extremely limited, being confined to such expressions as 
"How are you, sir?" "I am very well," "Yes, sir," "No, 
sir," and "I know New York." She was a mystery to the 
town, where she was commonly called "the Turkish lady." 







ZoQUE Women; Tuxtla Gutierrez 




The Indian Alcaldes; Tuxtla Gutierrez 



, 



AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 355 

This nickname, her limited knowledge of English, and her 
boasted acquaintance with New York, aroused the question, 
in my mind, whether she might not have been an oriental 
dancer. She, herself, told us that she was bom in South 
America, and referred to Caracas, as if it were a place with 
which she was familiar. The jefe was extremely polite 
in his dealings with these people, and, as soon as they were 
seated, rang his bell for glasses, and we all drank the lady's 
health in cognac. The fact was, that these two persons 
were prisoners; they had come here within a few days, and 
had the city for a prison; as they had made no effort to 
leave the town, their movements were not interfered with, 
but if they had attempted to step outside the city limits, 
they would have been shot without a word of warning. 
The jefe himself did not know who they were, nor what 
crime they had committed; nor did he know how long 
they would remain in his custody; they had come a weary 
journey, as he put it, "along the Cordillera;" they had been 
passed from hand to hand, from one jefe to another; when 
the order came, he was to start them on their journey to the 
jeje of the next district. Of the many stories told regarding 
them, a few will serve as samples. She was said to be the 
wife of a wealthy merchant of Campeche, from whom she 
had eloped with her companion, carrying away $150,000. 
According to another view, they were connected with an 
important band of forgers and robbers, who had been 
carrying on extensive operations. The most minutely 
detailed story, however, was that she had been the mistress 
and favorite of Francisco Canton, Governor of the State of 
Yucatan; that, pleased with a younger and handsomer 
man, she had stolen $7,000 from His Excellency, and at- 
tempted an elopement; that, captured, they were being sent 
as prisoners, nominally to Mexico. Whether any of these 
stories had a basis of fact, we cannot say, but from remarks 



356 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the prisoners themselves made to us, we feel sure that the 
centre of their trouble was Merida, and that, in some way, 
they had offended the pompous governor. At all events, it 
is likely that, long before these words are written, both 
have met their death upon the road. It is a common thing 
for prisoners, passing along the Cordillera, to be shot 
"while attempting to escape from their guard." 

The jefe politico of this district is a man of education, 
and professional ability; he is a physician, trained in the 
City of Mexico; he is ingenious in mechanics, and has 
devised a number of instruments and inventions of a scientific 
kind. He had been but a short time in this district, having 
come from Tonala, where he has a finca. He entertained 
us at his house, while we were there, and showed us every 
assistance. It is plain, however, that he found us a white 
elephant upon his hands. Not that his willingness was 
lacking, but where should he find one hundred Indian men ? 
We pestered him almost to death for subjects, when at 
last his secretario suggested the district jail. This was a 
veritable inspiration. There they were sure we would have 
no difficulty in finding the remainder of our hundred. To 
the jail we went, but out of seventy-five prisoners fully half 
were Tzotzils from Chamula and not Zoques. More than 
half of the remainder were not Indian, but mestizos. In 
fact, out of the total number, only a baker's dozen served our 
purpose. When we again presented ourselves, the following 
morning, for subjects, the poor man was in genuine des- 
peration. But again his assistant made a shrewd sug- 
gestion. Yesterday we were at the jail; to-day we should 
go to the cuartel, and measure the soldiers. There were 
two hundred there, and this would more than see us through. 
The jefe himself accompanied us to the barracks and 
introduced us to the colonel, leaving orders that we should 
be supplied with every aid, and went off happy, in the sense 



AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 357 



of a bad job well done. But out of the two hundred sol- 
diers in the barracks, just ten turned out to be Zoques of pure 
blood. And long before the day was over, we were again 
clamoring at the jefe's house for thirty-six more subjects. 
To tell the truth, we doubted his ability to secure them, and, 
in order to lose no time, started our goods and plaster by 
carreta for San Cristobal. Still, while it was plain that he 
did not know where to look for help, the good man assured 
us that we should have our thirty-six subjects the next 
morning. Meantime, he sent officials with us to visit certain 
Indian houses which we desired to examine, and arranged 
that we should see a certain characteristic Indian dance at 
his house, at four o'clock that afternoon. 

Tuxtla Gutierrez is a capital city. It is also a busy com- 
mercial centre. Of course, the population is for the most 
part mestizo, and not Indian. We had been surprised at 
finding so many Indians in the city as there were. We were 
yet more surprised to find to what extent the houses of the 
city, though admirably built, were truly indian in style, 
presenting many points of interest. The walls of the 
"god-house" were heavy and substantial, smoothly daubed 
with mud, neatly plastered and often adorned with colored 
decorations. The "cook-house," slighter and less well- 
built, was made of poles daubed with mud, and rough 
with heavy thatching. The granary was elevated above the 
ground, and sheltered with its own neat thatching. 

In the afternoon, at four o'clock, we betook ourselves 
to the jeje^s house to see the dance. At Tuxtla, there 
are two town governments, that of the mestizos and that 
of the indians. The indian officials — ^'alcaldes indios'' 
— are recognizable by their dress, which is a survival of 
the ancient indian dress of the district. Their camisa, broad 
hat, and leather breeches, are characteristic. Around 
the head, under the hat, they wear a red cloth, and 



358 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

those who have served as Indian alcaldes continue to wear 
this head-cloth after their official service ends. These 
Indian officials had been commissioned to bring together 
the dancers, and make all necessary arrangements. The 
colonel, the prisoners of state, and one or two other guests 
were present. The leader of the dance was gaily dressed, 
in a pair of wide drawers with lace about the legs below the 
knee, a pair of overdrawers made of bright-colored hand- 
kerchiefs, and a helmet or cap of bright-red stuff from which 
rose a crest of macaw feathers, tipped with tufts of cotton. 
On his back, he bore a kind of pouch, the upper edge of 
which was bordered with a line of macaw feathers. In his 
hand, he carried a wooden war-axe. A pretty little girl, 
dressed in a Guatemaltec enagua, wore a fancy head-dress, 
and, in her hand, bore a jicara, which was filled with pink 
carnival flowers. These two dancers faced each other and in 
dancing moved slowly back and forth, and from one foot 
to the other; the only other dancers were two men, one of 
whom was dressed as, and took the part of, a woman. This 
couple danced in much the same way, but with greater free- 
dom than the chief persons, and at times circled around 
them. The music consisted of a violin and native pito or 
pipe, and a drum of the huehuetl type, — cut from a single 
cylindrical block, but with skin stretched over both ends 
instead of one. 

I was surprised the following morning when thirty-six 
subjects were produced ; we knew that, for the moment, the 
building operations of the government palace were discon- 
tinued, and we suspected that all the work done by indians 
in Tuxtla was likewise temporarily ceased. When the last 
one had passed under the instruments, the jeje heaved a 
sigh, rang his bell for glasses, and the event was celebrated 
by a final draught of cognac. 

The man with whom we had expected to arrange for 








^pitai 



AT TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 3 59 

animals had promised to come to the hotel at seven. He 
came not then, nor at half-past, nor at eight, nor at nine. 
When we sent an inquiry, he made the cool reply, that it was 
now too late to arrange matters; that he would see us at 
eight the following morning. Furious at his failure, we 
ourselves went with the boy from the hotel at ten o'clock to his 
house, but could not get him even to open the door. "To- 
morrow! To-morrow!" was his cry. Desperate, we went, 
although it was now almost midnight, to another arriero, who, 
after some dickering, agreed to leave at eight the following 
morning, charging a price something more than fifty per 
cent above the usual rate. Of course he was behindhand, 
but we actually set out at nine. 



CHAPTER XXV 

TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 

(1901) 

"\ ^ ^E started out over the hot and dusty road, passing 
^ ^ here and there through cuts of the white earth, 
which is used by the women of Chiapa in their lacquer- 
work. We soon reached the river, and, leaving our animals 
behind, to cool before swimming them across, embarked 
with a dozen other passengers, and all our baggage, in one 
of the great canoes, which we by no means filled. Landing 
on the other side, with an hour to wait, we walked down 
stream, and took a fine bath in the fresh cold, clear, deep 
water. Just below where we were bathing, some Indians 
had exploded a dynamite cartridge, killing a quantity of 
fish, and the surface was immediately spotted with their 
white, upturned bellies. A canoe-load of four men put out 
to gather the fish, as soon as the shot was fired. Just as 
they reached the spot, and were leaning over the boat to 
catch them, the canoe overturned, and all the men were 
floundering in the water, up to their necks, and the canoe 
was rapidly drifting down the stream. The fish they get 
here are quite large, and seem to be a kind of cat-fish. Stroll- 
ing back to our landing-place, we were interested in the 
lively scenes there being enacted. Under little arbors of 
leafy boughs, women were washing clothing; crowds of 
children, of both sexes, were playing on the sand or splashing 
in the water; half-a-dozen great canoes were dragged up 
on the bank, and amid these a group of little brown fellows, 

from ten to fourteen years of age, were swimming; here 

360 




ZOQUE COMPADRES GREETING; TUXTLA GUTIERREZ 




Our Ffrry-Boat; Chiapa 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 361 



and there, a man or woman squatted in the shallow water, 
dipped water over their bare bodies with jicaras. Now 
and then the great ferry-boat, loaded with passengers and 
with animals swimming alongside, made its crossing. 
Presently our seven animals were swum across, and, after 
a moment's drying, were repacked and saddled, and we 
were ready for our forward movement. 

Chiapa was formerly the great town of the Chiapanecs, 
an Indian tribe to whom tradition assigns past splendor, 
but who, to-day, are represented in three villages, Chiapa, 
Suchiapa, and Acala. They are much mixed with Spanish 
blood, and have largely forgotten their ancient language. 
It is, however, from them, that the modern state, Chiapas, 
received its name. Chiapa, itself, is a city of some size, 
situated on a terrace a little way from the river, with a 
ridge of hills rising behind it. The plaza is large, and in it 
stands a market-building. Near by is a picturesque old 
gothic fountain, built of brick. Market was almost over, 
but we were interested in seeing the quantities of pineapples 
and cacao beans there offered. To lose no time waiting for 
dinner, we bought bread and one or two large pineapples, 
which we ate under the shade of the trees in the plaza. 
The pineapples were delicious, being tender and exceed- 
ingly sweet; our arriero refused to eat any of them, asserting 
that they were barely fit to eat, lacking sweetness, and being 
prickly to the taste. The pineapples of Simojovel were to 
his liking; they are sugar-sweet, leaving no prickly sensa- 
tion, and anyone can eat three whole ones at a sitting. 
After luncheon, we looked about for examples of lacquer- 
work. In one house, we found some small objects and 
wooden trays of indifferent workmanship. An old crone, 
badly affected with pinto, the mother of the young woman 
artist, showed us the wares. With her was the older sister 
of the lady-worker, . who, after we had bought two of the 



362 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

trays, asked whence we came. Upon our telling her that 
Manuel was a native of Cordoba, and that I had come 
from the United States, without a word of warning she 
raised her hands, turned her eyes upward, and gave vent 
to a torrent of shrill, impassioned, apostrophe to her absent, 
artistic sister: ''A dios, hermana mia, Anastasia Torres, 
to think that your art-products should penetrate to those 
distant lands, to those remote portions of the world, to be 
the wonder and admiration of foreign eyes. A dios, her- 
mana mia, Anastasia Torres!" This she repeated several 
times, in a voice high enough to be heard a block or two away. 
Leaving her to continue her exclamations of joy and admira- 
tion over the fate of her sister's workmanship, we returned 
to the plaza, where, in a house near by, we found a consider- 
able stock of better work, consisting of decorated bowls, 
cups, toy jicaras, gourd-rattles, etc. This brilliant work, 
characteristic of the town, is carried hundreds of miles 
into the States of Oaxaca, Tabasco, Vera Cruz, and into 
the Republic of Guatemala. At two o'clock we hurried 
from the town in the midst of terrific heat. As we rode out, 
over the dry and sandy road, we were impressed by the dis- 
play of death; not only was there one cemetery, with its 
whitened walls and monuments, but at least three other 
burial places capped the little hillocks at the border of 
the town. One, particularly attracted attention, as it resem- 
bled an ancient terraced pyramid, with a flight of steps up 
one side. 

From the foothills, we struck up the flank of the great 
mountain mass itself. Mounting higher and higher, a great 
panorama presented itself behind and below us, including 
the Chiapa valley, with the hills beyond it. It was, however, 
merely extensive, and not particularly beautiful or pictur- 
esque. As we followed the slope towards the crest,, into the 
narrowing valley, the scene became bolder, until we were at 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 363 

the very edge of a mighty chasm, which yawned sheer at our 
side. Following it, we saw the gorge suddenly shallow 
hundreds of feet by a vast precipice of limestone rock rising 
from its bottom. Having passed this, we journeyed on up 
the canon, lessened in grandeur, but still presenting pretty 
bits of scenery. Up to this point, limestone had prevailed, 
but from here on, we passed over various formations — 
heavy beds of sand or clay, lying upon conglomerates and 
shales. The road wound astonishingly, and at one point, 
coming out upon a hog's-back ridge, we found that we had 
actually made a loop, and stood directly above where we 
had been some time before. Near sunset, we reached the 
summit, and looked down upon the little town of Ixtapa, 
upon a high llano below, and seeming to be a haK-hour's 
ride distant. Descending on to the llaito, we found it 
intersected by deep and narrow gorges; following along 
the level, narrow ridge, surrounded by ravines on every 
side, except the one from which we had approached, we 
presently descended, along its flank, the bank of the deepest 
of these barrancas. The sun had set long before we reached 
the bottom, and through the darkness, we had to climb up 
over the steep dugway in the sandy clay to the village, which 
we reached at seven. The little room supplied us for a 
sleeping-place was clean and neat, the floor was strewn 
with fresh and fragrant pine-needles, and the wooden beds 
were supplied with petates. Leaving before eight, the 
following morning, we travelled through a beautiful canon, 
with an abundant stream of whitish-blue water, tumbling 
in fine cascades among the rocks, and dashing now and 
then into deep pools of inky blackness. Having passed 
through it, our bridle-trail plunged abruptly downward. 
From it, we looked upon a neighboring slope, cut at three 
different levels, one above the other, for the cart-road. 
Passing next through a small canon of little beauty, but where 



364 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

the air was heavy with an odor Hke vanilla, coming from 
sheets of pale-purple or violet flowers, on trees of eight or 
ten feet in height, we reached San Sebastian, where we 
found our carretero, whom we supposed to have reached 
San Cristobal the day before. Rating him soundly, and 
threatening dire consequences from his delay, we resumed 
our journey. We were also worried over our mozo, who 
started from Chiapa at noon, the day before, with our photo- 
graphic instruments, and whom we had not seen since, 
although there were several places where we would gladly 
have taken views. From here, for a long distance, the road 
was a hard, steep climb, over limestone in great variety — 
solid limestone, tufaceous stuff, concretionary coatings, satin 
spar, and calcite crystals. Having passed a small pueblo, 
or large finca, lying in a little plain below us, we looked 
down upon Zinacantan. The descent was quickly made, 
and passing through the village, without stopping, we made 
a long, slow, ascent before catching sight of our destination, 
San Cristobal. It made a fine appearance, lying on a little 
terrace at the base of hills, at the very end of the valley. 
Its churches and public buildings are so situated as to make 
the most impression; on account of its length and narrow- 
ness, the town appears much larger than it really is. We 
entered at one end, and then, practically, paralleled our 
trail through it to the centre, where we stopped at the Hotel 
Progreso, at 3:30 in the afternoon. We went to the palace, 
and made arrangements so promptly that we could have 
begun work immediately, if the carretero and mozo had not 
been behind. As it was, we waited until next day, and 
were warned by the secretario at the jefatura that there 
would not be enough light for work before nine o'clock. 
In the evening, we called on Padre Sanchez, well known 
for his study of the native languages, and the works he had 
written regarding them. He is a large man, well-built, of 




Tuh Jail; Sax Ckistuhal 




TzoTziL Musicians in San Cristobal Jail 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS ^^^ 

attractive appearance, and of genial manner. He has been 
/:ura in various indian towns among the Chamulas, and he 
loves the Indians, and is regarded as a friend by them. We 
were prepared for a cold night, and had it, though no heavy 
frost formed, as had done the night before. In one day's 
journey, the traveller finds towns, in this neighborhood, with 
totally different climates. Here woolen garments are neces- 
sary, and in towns like Chamula and Cancuc the Indians 
find the heaviest ones comfortable. Our rating of the car- 
retero had an effect both prompt and dire; when we left 
him, he hastened to hire carriers to bring in the more im- 
portant part of our load; these, he insisted, should travel all 
night, and at eight o clock we found them at the hotel. In 
the darkness they had stumbled, and our loads had fallen. 
Whole boxes of unused plates were wrecked, and, still worse, 
many of our choicest negatives were broken. At nine 
o'clock the missing mozo appeared with the instruments; 
it is customary for our carrier to keep up with the company, 
as we have frequent need of taking views upon the journey; 
this was almost the only instance, in the hundreds of leagues 
that we have travelled on horseback, over mountain roads, 
where our carrier had failed to keep alongside of the 
animals, or make the same time in journeying that we 
mounted travellers did. 

Though there had been an early mist, there was no lack 
•of sunshine, even before seven. Still, we did not go to the 
palace until nine o'clock, the hour set. San Cristobal was 
formerly the capital of the state, and its public buildings 
are more pretentious than usual in cabeceras. The place in 
which we did our work was a building of two stories, filling 
one side of the plaza. We worked in the broad corridor 
of the second story, outside of the secretario's office, from 
which our subjects, mostly Indians who had come to pay 
school-taxes, were sent to us for measurement. The market- 



266 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

place of San Cristobal is characteristically Indian. Not 
only do the two chief tribes which frequent it — Tzotzils 
and Tzendals — differ in dress, but even the different 
villages of each wear characteristic garments. The 
Tzotzil of Chamula differs from his brother of Huixtan and 
San Bartolome; the Tzendal women of Tenejapa, Cancuc 
and San Andres may be quickly recognized by difference 
in dress. 

Most interesting are the Tzotzils of Chamula. Though 
looked upon by the mestizos of San Cristobal as mere 
brutes and savages, they are notably industrious. They 
weave heavy, woolen blankets and chamaras; they are 
skilled carpenters, making plain furniture of every kind; 
they are musicians, and manufacture quantities of harps, 
guitars, and violins; they braid straw, and make hats of 
palm; they are excellent leather-dressers, and give a black 
stain and polish to heavy leather, which is unequalled by 
the work of their white neighbors. Men wear lower gar- 
ments of cotton, and heavy black woolen over-garments^ 
which are gathered at the waist with woolen girdles. They 
wear broad-brimmed, low-crowned hats, of their own braid- 
ing, which they adorn with long, streaming, red and green 
ribbons. Their sandals are supplied with heel-guards of 
black leather, the height of which indicates the wealth or 
consequence of the wearer. These Indians of Chamula 
have a love of liberty and desire for independence. The most 
serious outbreak of recent times was theirs in 1868, when, 
under the influence of the young woman, Checheb, they 
attempted to restore the native government, the Indian life, 
and the old-time religion. Temples were erected to the 
ancient gods, whose inspired priestess the young woman 
claimed to be; but three hundred years of Christianity 
had accustomed them to the idea of a Christ crucified; an 
Indian Christ was necessary, not one from the hated in- 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 367 



vading race; accordingly, a little Indian lad, the nephew 
of the priestess, was crucified, to become a saviour for their 
race. Their plans involved the killing of every white and 
mestizo in all the country; in reality, more than one hundred 
men, women, and children, in the ^ncas and litde towns, 
were killed; San Cristobal, then the capital city, suffered 
a veritable panic, and it took the entire fojrce of the whole 
state to restore order. 

The Tzendals of Tenejapa are picturesque in the ex- 
treme. Their dark skin, their long black hair, completely 
covering and concealing the ears, their coarse features, and 
the black and white striped chamaras of wool — which they 
buy from the weavers of Chamula — form a striking com- 
bination. They do but little weaving, their chief industry 
being the raising and selling of fruits. Most of the men 
carry a little sack, netted from strong fibre, slung at one side. 
Among other trifling possessions in it, is generally a little 
gourd filled with a green powder, which they call mai, or 
pelico. It consists chiefly of tobacco, with a mixture of 
lime and chili, and is chewed, no doubt, for stimulating 
properties — to remove the weariness of the road, and "to 
strengthen the teeth," as some say. 

When we had exhausted the stock of those who came 
to pay their taxes, it was suggested that we would find 
good subjects in the jail. This occupied what was once 
a fine old convent, built around a large open court, and 
connected with the church, which, judging from its elabo- 
rately carved facade, must have been beautiful. On pre- 
senting our credentials to the officials, an order was given, 
and aU the pure-blood indians, one hundred at least, were 
lined up before us for inspection. There were Tzotzils 
from Chamula, and Tzendals from Tenejapa, and among 
them many excellent faces, showing the pure types, finely 
developed. Having made our inspection, and indicated 



368 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

those whom we should use, we looked about the prison. 
The prisoners were housed in the old rooms of the mon- 
astery, each of which was large enough for six or eight per- 
sons. In these rooms, each prisoner had his personal 
possessions — good clothing, tools, cherished articles, in- 
struments of music. Those who cared to do so, were 
permitted to work at such things as they could do, and the 
product of their labor was sold for their benefit. Some 
braided palm into long strips, to make up into hats; others 
plaited straw into elaborate, decorative cords or bands for 
hats; some wove pita into pouches; some dressed leather. 
Almost all were busily employed. Freedom of conversa- 
tion and visiting was permitted, and there was no particu- 
lar hardship in the matter of imprisonment, except the 
inability to go outside. We were impressed with the fact 
that, in appearance and manner, few, if any, of these In- 
dian prisoners, particularly the Chamulas, showed any 
signs of criminal tendencies. In fact, they were as clean^ 
as frank, as docile, as intelligent, as any persons we might 
find in Mexico. A little curious to know the charges on 
which they had been committed, we inquired, and discov- 
ered that some had fifteen or twenty points against them, 
among which were such trifling charges as murder, man- 
slaughter, arson, rape, and highway robbery. We thought 
best not to inquire too closely, but it is doubtful, whether 
any of the subjects here incarcerated under these long and 
dreadful lists of charges, are guilty of anything except 
insurrection — a final struggle for freedom. 

There were various signs of the approach of Holy Week, 
and the landlady at our hotel, and her various helpers, were 
busy manufacturing incense for that occasion. This was 
made in sticks, as thick as the thumb, and six or eight inches 
in length, of a black color. Besides copal, leaves and other 
materials from various kinds of odorous plants were em- 





Position of Rest; Tzendals, Tenezapa 




TzoI/iLs tiHiM ilUiXiAN 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 369 

ployed in its fabrication; the incense thus made is really 
fragrant, and it would be interesting to know whether it is, 
in part at least, of Indian origin. In three days we had 
completed our examination of the men, but not a woman 
had been produced for examination. On the fourth day, we 
reiterated our demands to the authorities, and Don Murcio, 
the janitor or messenger, who had been put subject to our 
order, was almost frantic. He declared that to secure the 
women we needed would tax every power of the government; 
that they refused to come; that his mere appearance in the 
market caused a scattering. Finally, we told him, that if 
he would provide twenty-five Chamula women, we would 
get the Tzendals in their villages, as we passed through 
them. Encouraged, by having one-half of our demand 
abated, he made another visit to the market. Soon we 
heard excited voices, and a moment later Don Murcio came 
rushing up the stairs with both arms filled with black cha- 
maras. It is the custom of the Indian women, when they 
come to market, and settle down with wares to sell, to fold 
their heavier garments and lay them on the ground beside 
them. Don Murcio had gathered up the first of these he 
came to, and fled with them to the government palace, 
while the crowd of angry women, chasing along behind, 
expressed their feelings vigorously. Putting the garments 
out of reach, the women were told by the officials, that each 
would receive back her property as soon as the strangers 
made their desired measurements. While we were dealing 
with the first cluster, Don Murcio sallied forth, and returned 
once more with garments and women. In this way, the 
work proceeded, until the final lot were in our hands. Not to 
unnecessarily increase their terrors, we had refrained from 
photographing, until the final company had been secured. 
We had told the officials of our plan, and as these later ones 
were measured, they were told that they must wait for their 



370 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

garments until the last one was measured, and until the 
gentleman had done some other work. When all had been 
measured, it was explained to the six of seven in the group, 
that they were to go down into the patio^ where a picture 
would be taken of the company. That they might be prop- 
erly prepared for the picture, their garments were returned. 
Suspecting no treachery, Don Murcio led the way, and one 
of two police officers accompanied the forward part of the 
procession, while Louis brought up the rear, in expectation 
of making the portrait. All went well until the first two 
or three had entered the patio, when the rest suddenly 
balked, and started to run out onto the street. Hearing 
the confusion, I started down and caught one of the women 
as she neared the doorway, while Louis held another, and 
each of the police officers, and Don Murcio, seized a pris- 
oner. So violent, however, were the struggles, and so loud 
the outcries of the woman whom I held, that I released her, 
which was the unintended signal for each of the other 
guards to do the same, and our group vanished and all 
thought of gathering a second was given up in desperation. 
The morning had thus passed; animals for the further 
journey had been ordered for ten o'clock, and were really 
ready a little before three. For once, however, we were 
not prepared. It was our custom to pack the busts in 
petroleum boxes; these boxes, each holding a five-gallon 
can of oil, are of just the size to take a single bust, and they 
are so thin and light, yet at the same time, so well con- 
structed, that they served our purpose admirably. In small 
indian towns, they are frequently unobtainable, but in the 
places where mestizos live, it had been always easy to pro- 
cure them, at prices varying from ten to twenty-five cents 
each. In a town the size of San Cristobal, it should be 
easy to get them; to our surprise, we found that they had 
been in such demand, for carrying purposes by public 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 371 

workmen, that the supply was small and the price out- 
rageous. We had left the securing of the boxes and the 
packing of the busts to our plaster- worker, and, though we 
knew he had had difficulty, imagined that he had secured 
all needed, and that the busts would be all ready. Diligent 
search, however, had secured but two boxes, and ridicu- 
lous prices had been demanded for those. All of us took 
to the streets, visiting stores and private houses, and at last 
five boxes were secured, though they were a dilapidated lot, 
with bad covers. For these we paid an average of sixty- 
two cents each. Realizing the time and labor necessary 
for securing boxes, stuff for packing, and for the work of 
putting up the busts, we dismissed our horsemen, and 
arranged for leaving the next morning. In fact, night had 
fallen before our work was done. Leaving a little before 
eight, we had a magnificent mountain ride. For a league 
or more, we rose steadily over a cart-road ; keeping at a high 
altitude, and, with but little of ups and downs, we journeyed 
through fine pine forests, with oaks mingled, here and there, 
among the pines. We met quantities of Chamula and 
Tenejapa indians on their way to market. The Chamulas 
carried chairs, loads of well-tanned skins, and sacks full 
of little, round wooden boxes, well and neatly made, while 
the Tenejapes were loaded with nets of oranges, limas, 
and ahuacates. We were sorry to leave the village of Cha- 
mula to one side, but lack of time forbade our visiting it. 
It was amusing to note the terror of our arriero on the road. 
Until we passed Cancuc, he was constantly expecting attack 
from the dreadful indians of Chamula, Tenejapa, and 
Cancuc, telling us that such attacks might be expected at 
any time, but particularly in the early morning and in the 
dusk of evening. What indians we met were most gentle, 
and answered our salutations with apparent kindness. 
After a long journey on the high, smooth road, we finally" 



372 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

began descending into a pretty valley, and soon saw the 
great town of Tenejapa, below us, on a space almost as 
level as a floor, neatly laid out, and still decked with 
the arches erected for a recent fiesta. The agente of the 
town had been warned of our coming, by telephone from 
the jefatura, and received us warmly, a little before one 
o'clock, giving us a large and comfortable room in the 
municipal building, supplied with chairs and benches, and 
a table, though without beds or mats. We were here de- 
layed by the slowness of the old man, who had been furn- 
ished at San Cristobal for carrying our instruments. By 
three o'clock, all was ready, and the twenty-five women 
were summoned. They gave no kind of trouble, and by 
six o'clock the work was done. Women here braid their 
hair in two braids, which are wrapped about closely with 
cords, making them look like red ropes; these are then 
wound around the head and picturesquely fastened. The 
huipils of cotton are short, and decorated with scattered 
designs, worked in color, and loosely arranged in trans- 
verse bands. Belts are of wool, red in color, and broad, 
but not long. Over their shoulders the women wear, 
particularly in cool weather, a red and blue striped cotton 
shawl or wrap. The red worn — whether in belts, wraps, 
or hair-strings — is all of one shade, a dull crimson-red. As 
night fell, dozens of little bonfires were lighted in the plaza, 
made from cobwork piles of fat-pine. People were already 
gathering from other pueblos for market, and many of 
them slept through the night in the open market-place. 
The band played a mournful piece, repeatedly, during the 
evening, and some rockets were fired — no doubt, the tailing- 
off of the late fiesta. 

Market had begun in the morning, as we prepared to 
leave, but the great plaza was not more than half -full, and 
there was little that was characteristic. Noteworthy, how- 



1:1 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 373 

ever, were the great loaves of salt made at Ixtapa; about the 
size of old-fashioned sugar-loaves, they were shaped in 
rush-mats, and showed the marks of the matting on their 
surface; saws were used to cut off pieces for purchasers. 
The agente said that it was not good, being mixed with 
earth or sand. He, himself, came from the neighborhood 
of Tapachula, where quantities of salt are made from the 
lagoon water. The salt-water and the salt-soaked earth 
from the bottom of the lagoon are put into vats and leached, 
and the resulting saline is boiled in ovens, each of which 
contains an olla. The industry is conducted by ladinos, 
as well as indians, but the salt is poor. 

It was 8:45 when we started, and almost immediately 
we began a hard climb over limestone, giving a severe test 
to our poor animals. At the summit we found a group of 
Indian carriers, who, as usual, stopped at the pass to rest 
and look upon the landscape. The view was really beau- 
tiful, the little town lying in a curious, level valley, which 
was encircled by an abrupt slope, and which had been 
excavated from an almost level plateau. For some time, 
we followed this high level, but finally plunged down into 
a deep gully, where our road passed away to the left in a 
dry gorge, while to the right, the valley deepened abruptly 
by a great vertical wall. When we reached the point of 
sudden deepening, in the gorge below, we saw water, burst- 
ing in volume from the cliff's base. Dismounting from our 
horses, and climbing down, we found a magnificent arch 
of limestone over the emerging stream, the water of which 
was fresh and cold, and clear as crystal. The shallow por- 
tion of the valley marks the ancient level of the stream. 
In some past time, the stream had sunk, cutting a subter- 
ranean channel under its old bed, which was left high and 
dry. The deep part of the valley may be due to the falling 
of the roof of rock above the subterranean stream. Fol- 



374 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

-lowing up the ancient valley, we presently turned into one 
of its old tributary gorges, coming out into a country well- 
wooded with pines and oaks. The whole country here- 
abouts is composed of monoclines, all the crests presenting 
one long, gentle slope, with rocks dipping with the slope, 
and one abrupt short slope, cutting the strata. The roads, 
for the most part, follow along the edge of these monoclines, 
making them unsually long, though easy. The rocks over 
which we passed were an olive shaly-sandstone, with nota- 
ble concentric weathering, limestone, and here and there, 
red sandstone, abundantly green-spotted. Indians, every- 
where, were burning over fields, preparatory to planting; 
while the day was clear, the smoke rose in clouds, and at 
many places we suffered from these field fires. Twice we 
passed a point just as the flames leaped from one side of the 
road to the other, and rode between two lines of blaze. 
The fire, burning green branches and stalks, caused thou- 
sands of loud explosions, like the rattle of musketry. 

Long before we were near it, we caught sight of Cancuc, 
the beautiful, perched upon its lofty crest. In San Cristobal, 
our journey had been matter of conversation among the 
mestizos and many and dire predictions had been made. 
*'Ah, yes, it is easy for these gentlemen to do this work here 
in the cabecera, but let them get to Tenejapa, and Cancuc — 
there it will be another matter; they will be killed upon the 
journey; if they reach Cancuc, they will never leave the 
town alive." The town is built on the edge of a ridge, 
which drops in both directions, leaving barely room for the 
placing of houses. From it, we looked out in every direc- 
tion over a magnificent landscape. Cancuc is famous for 
the insurrection of 17 12. Curiously, like the outbreak at 
Chamula in 1868, it was due to the visions and religious 
influence of a girl. Maria Candaleria was the centre and 
impulse of the whole movement. Dr. Brinton has thrown 





A^i^ 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 375 

the incident, which abounded in picturesque details, and 
which caused the Spanish government great difficulty, into 
a little drama, which bears the name of the inspired priestess. 
We were now within the district of my friend Valencia. 
Two years ago, when we passed through the country of the 
Mixes, he was the jeje politico of the District of Yautepec; 
he had been transferred to this state and this district, with 
his cabecera at Ocosingo. That town lay far from our course, 
and we had written Senor Valencia, that we planned to pass 
through his district, but had not time to visit the cabecera. 
We named the towns through which we planned to pass, 
and begged him to send orders directly to the local authori- 
ties, instead of trying to communicate with us. This he 
had done promptly, and during our stay in his district, 
everything was done for us without delay. The agente at 
Cancuc is a new official, but a man of sense, and sympathy 
for the indians, among whom he lives. We arrived at half- 
past three and had our mozo been on time, might have done 
some work. The agente showed us the historic picture in 
the old church; it is the portrait of a clergyman, whose 
influence did much to quell the insurrection in 1713. More 
interesting to us than the old picture, were groups of indians, 
kneeling and praying. When they knelt, they touched their 
foreheads and faces to the ground, which they saluted with 
a kiss. Having assumed the attitude of prayer, they were 
oblivious to all around them, and, curiously, their prayers 
were in the native language. The town-house was placed at 
the disposition of our party, but the agente's bed, in his 
own house, was given to me. As I sat writing at the table 
in his room, the whole town government — a dozen or so 
in number — stalked in. Most of them wore the heavy 
black chamaras made by the Chamula indians. These 
were so long that they almost swept the ground. The faces 
of the men were dark and wild, and their hair hung in 



376 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

great black shocks down upon their shoulders and backs. 
In their hands they held their long official staves. Advanc- 
ing to the table where I sat, in the order of their rank, they 
saluted me, kissing my hand; arranging themselves in a 
half-circle before my table, the presidente placed before me 
a bowl filled with eggs, each wrapped in corn-husks, while 
the first alcalde deposited a cloth filled with a high pile of 
hot tortillas; a speech was made in Tzendal, which was 
translated by the second official, in which they told me that 
they appreciated our visit; it gave them pleasure that such 
important persons should come from such a distance to 
investigate the life and manners of their humble town; 
they trusted that our errand might be entirely to our wishes, 
and that, in leaving, we might bear with us a pleasant 
memory. They begged us to accept the poor presents they 
had brought, while they assured us that, in them, we had 
our thousand most obedient servants. And this in Cancuc 
— the tovm where we were to have met our death ! At 
night, the fires on a hundred hills around us made a magnifi- 
cent display, forming all sorts of fantastic combinations and 
outlines. In the evening, the son of the agente, who had 
been to Tenango with a friend, came home in great excitement. 
He was a lively young fellow of eighteen years. At the 
river-crossing, where they arrived at five in the evening, 
a black cow, standing in the river, scared their horses so that 
they could not make them cross; the boy emptied his 
revolver at the animal, but with no effect; it was clearly a 
vaca bruja — witch cow; an hour and a half was lost before 
they succeeded in getting their horses past with a rush. 

The morning was spent in making pictures. While 
still in Yucatan, we heard about the music of Cancuc, and 
among our views was one of the musicians. These are 
three in number, and they head processions at fiestas; the 
drum, like that we saw at Tuxtla, is cylindrical, with two 



P ^^fwn 




. TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 377 

heads; the pito is the usual reed whistle; the tortuga, a 
large turtle-shell, was brought from Palenque; it is hung 
by a belt to the player, and is beaten on the lower side with 
two leg-bones of a deer. The Cancuc dress is simple. 
Men wear the breech-clout, and, when they carry burdens, 
little else; at other times, they wear short, cotton trousers 
which hardly reach the knees. The chief garment is a ca- 
misa, of native cotton, with a colored stitching at the neck 
and along the seam where the two edges join; this camisa 
is of such length that, when girded, it hangs just to, or a little 
below, the lower edge of the trouser leg. The belts are 
home- woven, but are made of cotton which is bought 
already dyed a brilliant red or yellow. Women wear woolen 
belts made by Chamulas; their enaguas are plain, dull blue 
in color; their huipils are a dirty white, with a minimum 
of colored stitching. The chief industry at Cancuc is 
raising pigs for market. 

At 1:15 we started from the town, and rode down the 
crest of long, gently-sloping ridges, which seemed intermin- 
able. The rock over which we passed was red sandstone, 
mottled and streaked with green, red shale, and occasional 
patches of conglomerate. Crossing a little stream by a 
pretty bridge, we made an abrupt ascent, and soon saw the 
little town, Cuaquitepec, at the base of the opposite hill. 

We met many indians carrying great ovoidal jars which 
were made at Tenango, and which are chiefly used for carry- 
ing chicha. This is a fermented drink, made from the sap 
of sugar-cane, and is much used throughout this state and 
the adjoining parts of Central America. We inquired 
of a girl who carried such a vessel, what she had, and asked 
to try it. She gave us a sip in a wee gourd-vessel, holding 
less than a wine-glass. Knowing nothing of the price of 
chicha^ we gave her six centavos, with which she seemed well 
satisfied. A little later, deciding to test the drink again^ 



378 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

we stopped a man, who had a vessel of it, and again were 
given the little cup. On stating that we wished a centavo*s 
worth, we were much surprised to have him fill a great 
jicara for the price mentioned. It seems the little vessel is 
carried only for sampling, and that a sale is made only after 
the purchaser has approved the quality. 

Reaching Cuaquitepec at five, we rode up to the town- 
house, that the authorities might know that we had passed. 
The place is small and dwindling; there are relatively many 
ladinos, and few Indians. They were expecting us, and 
seemed disappointed at our refusal to stop. The shell of 
the old church, almost ready to fall, suggested past magnifi- 
cence. The little modern structure, at its side, is suited to 
the present needs. We were vexed at the wanton sacrifice 
of a great tree, which had stood near the town-house, but 
whose giant trunk was prostrate, and stripped of its branches. 
A man on foot showed us the road beyond the town, and it 
was moonlight before we reached Citala, where we planned 
to sleep. Of the town itself, we know nothing. The old 
church is decaying, but in its best days must have been 
magnificent. The presidente was absent, but his wife, an 
active, bustling intelligent ladino, expected us, and did every- 
thing possible for our comfort. Eggs, beans, tortillas and 
coffee made up the supper. A room, containing a bed for 
me, and petates on the floor for my companions, was waiting. 
When a light was struck more than a dozen great cockroaches 
were seen running over the wall, none of them less than 
two inches and a half in length, and of the most brilliant 
orange and dark brown. In the morning, a fine chicken 
breakfast was promptly ready, and the woman had sum- 
moned a cargador to be ready for our starting. She said 
that in this town there is a considerable Indian ^>pulation, 
and that these Tzendals are tall and strongly-built, in com- 
parison with those of Cuaquitepec, and other neighboring 




IxDiAN Carriers Resting 




.^je^ 



- '^' ■-•'"'-' ^- 



D RIVING Pigs, near Cancuc 



TZOTZILS AND TZENDALS 379 

towns. She regretted that we could not wait until her 
husband came, as she had sent him word of our arrival, and 
was expecting him. We assured her that she had done 
everything which he could possibly have done, had he been 
present, and that we should, with pleasure, report our 
satisfaction to the jefe. 

The cargador whom she supplied, was a comfort, after 
the wretched sluggards whom we had lately had. With 
our instruments upon his shoulders, he trotted, like a faithful 
dog, directly at our side, from start to finish, never showing 
the least weariness or sense of burden. Both foot mozos 
and arrieros through this district carry a mass of posole with 
them on a journey. Unlike that which Eustasio and his 
Zapotec companions carried, the mass here is pure com, 
white and moist, being kept wrapped in fresh banana 
leaves; at every brookside, a jicara of fresh water is dipped, 
and a handful of posole is squeezed up in it till thoroughly 
mixed, when it is drunk. It tastes a little sour, and is 
refreshing. At 11:15, we passed the bridge over the stream 
on which Chilon is built, and a moment later drew up at 
the town-house. Here we regretted that our serious work 
with the Tzendals was done. We were received royally, 
and told that our house was ready. This was really so, a 
pretty little house of three good rooms having been cleaned 
and prepared for our use. We lay down and napped until 
the good dinner, which had been started when we had first 
been seen upon the road, and some time before we reached 
the village, was ready. Sitting on the porch of our little 
house, and looking out over bushes, full of roses, in the garden 
before us, we rested until the greatest heat of the day was 
past, when we started, and pushed on over the three 
leagues that lay between us and Yajalon, where we arrived 
at near sunset. The town is large, and, in great part, indian. 
The women dressed more gaily than in any other Tzendal 



38o IN INDIAN MEXICO 

town which we have seen; their huipils were decorated 
with a mass of bright designs, worked in colored wools or 
silk. Here we saw our first Choi, a carrier, passing through 
the village with his load ; in order to make a start upon our 
final tribe, we had him halted, to take his measurements and 
picture. At this town, we stopped at a sort of boarding-house^ 
or traveller's-rest, close by the town-house, kept by a widow 
with several children. We impressed upon this good 
woman the necessity of having breakfast without fail at five 
o'clock, as we wished to make an early start, stopping at 
Hidalgo for work during the hotter portion of the day, and 
pressing on to Tumbala at night. The poor creature 
kept me awake all night, making her preparations for the 
meal, which was to be a masterpiece of culinary art, and at 
four o'clock routed us all out with the report that breakfast 
was waiting on the table. It was a turkey-breakfast, too. 



CHAPTER XXVI 

CHOLS 
(1901) 

/^F course, after such a start, we were delayed in 
^^ getting the animals ready for the journey, and the 
sun had been up full half an hour when we left. It was 
a short ride to Hidalgo, which lies prettily in a small, flat 
valley, on a good-sized stream. We were doubtful about 
our reception, for Yajalon was the last town in Valencia's 
district, and we had no documents to present to the town 
officials, until we should reach El Salto, the cabecera, except 
our general letter from Governor Lopez. It is true that 
the presidente of Yajalon, at our request, had telephoned 
Hidalgo that we came highly recommended, and that every- 
thing possible must be done for our assistance. The agente 
was an old man, suffering from headache, who showed but 
listless interest in our work. In a general way, he gave 
us his endorsement, and we, therefore, took the manage- 
ment into our own hands. He had kept the people in 
town, so that we had subjects, though fewer than we had 
hoped. We measured twenty-seven men, and there were 
really no more in the town, the rest being away on fincas. 
The men gave us no trouble, but the women were another 
matter. Several times we issued orders that they be brought 
to the town-house for measurement, and each time, after 
an effort to obey our orders, we were told that they would 
not come. "Very good," said I, "if they will not come, it 
is plain that we must go and measure them in their houses." 
Accompanied by the town government, we started on our 

381 



382 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

rounds. The first house was tightly closed, and no reply 
was made to our demands for entrance. The second was 
the same; one might imagine that it had been deserted for 
weeks. At the third, the door was opened, and within, an 
aged woman, ugly, bent, decrepit. Here we measured. 
The next house, and the next, and the next, were shut. 
And then another open house contained another veritable 
hag. Passing several other houses, tightly closed, we found 
a third old woman, and I saw that we were destined to 
secure nothing but decrepit hags, as representatives of the fair 
sex. At the next closed house, I stopped, and turning to an 
official, who spoke Spanish, said, "I am tired of these closed 
houses; who owns this house? " His name was given, and 
I wrote it down. "Very well," said I, "I shall recommend 
to the jeje of the district, when I reach El Salto, that he be 
made to pay a fine of five pesos." At this, the town officials 
gasped, but we walked to the next house, which was also 
closed. "Who owns this house?" And down went a 
second name. By the time I had three names of owners 
of closed houses on my paper, the officials held a hasty 
whispered consultation; then coming to me, they begged 
me to excuse them for a moment, as the secretario would 
accompany me upon my round, and they would soon rejoin 
us. With this, they disappeared, and we entered another 
old woman's house. When we emerged, a wonderful 
change had taken place; every house in the village had its 
door wide open, and in the doorway were to be seen any- 
where from one to three or four ladies of all ages. From 
this time on, there was no lack of women, and the twenty- 
five were promptly measured. 

We had picked out our subjects for modeling before we 
started on our rounds to measure women; and had left 
Ramon in charge of that part of our work, staying only 
long enough to see him make the mould of the first subject- 



CHQLS 383 

This was an Indian, named Juan, the first alcalde of the 
village. We had carefully explained the operation to our 
subjects; we had described in detail the sensations and emo- 
tions connected with the thing, and thought we had the 
subjects well prepared. When Juan began, he seemed to 
have good courage, but we told a young fellow, who sat near 
and understood Spanish, that he should tell the man certain 
encouraging things which we repeated to him. The trans- 
lation was promptly done, and we were therefore much 
surprised to see our subject's confidence gradually give 
way to terror. While we were applying the first mould, 
he began to sob and cry like a child; this was, however, 
nothing compared with the abject terror and sorrow which 
he displayed while we were making the face-mould. The 
tears flowed from his eyes; he sobbed, cried aloud, and we 
could see the thumping of his heart against his chest. We 
had never had a subject who took the matter so hardly. 
When the operation was completed, we learned the cause 
of all this trouble. Our interpreter turned out to be a 
joker, and, while we were telling him encouraging remarks, 
with which to soothe the subject, he was saying, "Now you 
will die; pretty soon you will not be able to breathe any 
more; you will be dead and buried before to-morrow; your 
poor widow will no doubt feel badly, but probably she will 
find another quite as good as you." We had always real- 
ized the possibility of such misinterpretations, but, so far 
as we know, this was the only time that our interpreter 
ever played us false. 

On our return from measuring the women, we found that 
Ramon had made no progress. The three subjects, whom 
we had selected and left in his charge, under strenuous 
orders, had taken fright at Juan's experience and fled. 
We lost two hours in hunting them and bringing them in; 
and we should not have succeeded then, had it not been for 



384 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

Juan's assistance. He seemed to feel that, having under- 
gone the operation, it might ease his position, and decrease 
possible danger, if he had companions in misery. Finally, 
at 4:30, long after the hour we had set, we left for Tum- 
bala. We secured six cargadors — one each for the four 
moulds, one for the instruments, and one for the remaining 
plaster, — as our pack-animals had long since passed. Five 
of them were left to follow at their leisure, on condition that 
they reach Tumbala early the next morning, but the sixth, 
a wee old man, who had helped us woman-hunting, went 
with us, by his own request, to carry the instruments. He 
was so small that we did not believe he could carry the 
burden, but he made no sort of trouble about it, trotting 
along most happily. We had been told that the road was 
pura suhida — pure ascent — and so we found it. We were 
soon in the tropical forest of the Chinantla, and the land 
of the Mixes, with begonias, tree-ferns, bromelias, and 
orchids. Here and there, were bad bits of road, deep mud, 
slippery stones, irregular limestone masses. It was dark 
before we reached Tumbala, and although there was a 
moon, the mists were so dense that it did little good. 
Arriving at 6:45, we found the town a wretched place, 
with a worthless and nerveless agente. This was once the 
largest of the Choi towns, and we had thought to do the 
bulk of our work there. It is fortunate, indeed, that we 
stopped at Hidalgo, because Tumbala is now completely 
ruined by the contract-labor system, which has sent its men 
all through the country onto fincas. The agente would 
probably have done nothing for us, but his little daughter, 
much impressed by our letter from the governor, took an 
active interest in our welfare, promised to prepare a dinner, 
and decided him to give us sleeping-quarters in a store-room 
in the building. He thawed a little after we had eaten, 
but spoke discouragingly regarding the possibility of work- 




The Toro; Frame and Bearer; El Triunfo 




Playing Toro; El Triunfo 



CHOLS 385 

ing there. He said we would do well to go to El Triunfo; 
that it would take two days to find Indians and bring them 
to the town; that there were no animals, nothing to eat, 
no conveniences in Tumbala, in all of which he probablv 
was quite correct. Our arrieros had contracted only to 
this point from San Cristobal. We urged them to make 
the further journey, and offered them a price much above 
the regular, but they wanted to be back in San Cristobal 
for Holy Week, and assured us that the roads ahead were 
the worst that could be imagined, and that they ran the 
risk of killing all their animals if they went with us. 

As we were on the road, a little before we reached Tum- 
bala, we found a company of Indian boys making camp 
for the night. Calling to us, they said that Don Enrique 
had told them if they saw us on the road, to say that we 
should keep straight on to El Triunfo, as he had a mes- 
sage for us. We had never heard of Don Enrique, and 
thought there was some error, but after supper, the agente 
handed us a letter which had come that afternoon from the 
gentleman in question. In it we read: ''Sir: Mr. Ells- 
worth, of the Rio Michol Rubber Co., Sal to, asked me by 
telephone to tell you that he will be waiting for you the 
4th of April in La Cruzada, and hopes that you will kindly 
accompany Mrs. Ellsworth as far as Mexico, and that, in 
case she would not find a steamer in Frontera, he is going 
to charter one. Hoping to see you here in Triunfo, and 
waiting for an answer to La Cruzada, I remain. Yours 
truly, H. Rau." This was a gleam of light amid our dark 
affairs. There we were, with all our baggage and instru- 
ments, but without carriers, deserted by our arrieros, and 
with no opportunity in Tumbala to secure new animals or 
helpers; it was like the voice of a friend, to receive this 
English letter from El Triunfo, and we felt that, if worst 
came to worst, Don Enrique might help us out. 



386 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

The room in which we slept was filled with stored stuff 
and two tables. On one of these I made my bed, while 
my companions spread a large petate on the floor, and our 
little indian carrier put down a small one for himself, as 
he declared he should not leave us until morning. He had 
a good supper, and in a fit of generosity, presented Louis 
with what was left of his package of posole. With much 
enthusiasm, he told us of an "animal" which he had seen 
and tried to catch upon the road. From his description, 
it appeared to be an armadillo. Before he lay down on his 
petate, he kissed my hand, wished me a good night's rest, 
and asked my good-night blessing He was happy in 
possession of a realms worth of aguardiente, from which, at 
intervals during the night, he drank. Early in the morn- 
ing, he opened the door, and, looking out, crossed himself, 
and repeated his morning prayer. He then came to Ta- 
tita (little father) to receive his morning's blessing, and hoped 
that I had passed a good night in slumber. He then 
brought me a jicara of cool, fresh water, after which he 
urged me to take a sip from his dear bottle. Going outside 
a little time, he returned with two roses, heavy with dew 
and very fragrant, and gave them to me as if they were a 
gift for kings. Very soon, however, his potations got the 
better of him, and bidding us a fond farewell, he started 
for Hidalgo. 

It was my day of fever, and I spent the greater portion 
of the morning on my hard bed, getting up from time to 
time to try to move the agente to procure an animal, on 
which I might make the journey to El Triunfo. Finally, 
in despair, after difficulty in securing a foot-messenger, I 
sent a letter to Don Enrique, asking him to send an animal 
for my use. During the afternoon, a fine mule and a letter 
came from El Triunfo. "Sir: The boy brought me your 
letter, and I send you a good mule for yourself, so we shaD 



CHOLS 387 

talk all the rest when you shall get here. If you need more 
pack-mules I will send them afterwards, as soon as you tell 
me how many you need. Hoping to see you this afternoon, 
I remain, Yours very truly, Henry Rau." The road was 
down hill, and there were but two or three bad spots. I 
rode through tropical forests, the whole distance, with high 
trees, bound together with a mass of vines, and loaded with 
parasitic or aerial plants. Here and there, rose the largest 
tree-ferns I have ever seen. I was not in the best mood, 
however, for enjoying the journey, and the hour-and-a- 
quarter seemed like much more. The great coffee finca 
of El Triunfo occupied an irregular valley, the slopes of 
which were covered with thousands of coffee-trees, with 
their magnificent dark green leaves and sweet-scented, 
white flowers. Three hundred and fifty thousand trees 
made up the plantation, which was one of two owned and 
managed by Senor Rau. The house was large, and rather 
pretentious, two stories in height, with buildings for clean- 
ing, packing and storing coffee on the same terrace, and 
with a veritable village of houses for the Indian workmen 
down below. I received a warm reception from the Seiior 
and his household, who have established here a veritable 
bit of Germany in tropical America. Not only was I my- 
self cared for, but I was urged to make no haste in going 
further, as no steamer would go from La Cruzada before the 
4th, and it would be easy to reach that place in twenty-four 
hours. So, for several days the hospitable plantation-house 
was my home. Great lines of mules were constantly going 
from here, through to El Salto and La Cruzada, with loads 
of coffee, and coming back with provisions, and the many 
supplies necessary for an establishment of this importance. 
When the next mulada should appear, animals would be 
sent to Tumbala for my companions and the luggage. 
Curiously, none came for two whole days — a very unusual 



388 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

occurrence — and the boys remained prisoners in that 
dreary town for all that time. For my own part, I was 
thankful to reach a place where a comfortable bed and 
certain meals were to be counted on. My fever left me, 
but the following morning I found myself suffering from 
swollen jaws; every tooth was loose and sore, and it was 
difi&cult to chew even the flesh of bananas; this difficulty 
I had lately suffered, whenever in the moist mountain dis- 
trict of Pennsylvania, and I feared that there would be 
no relief until I was permanently out of the district of 
forest-grown mountains. Nor was I mistaken, for ten 
days passed, and we had reached the dry central table- 
and of Mexico, before my suffering ended. One day, 
while we were on the fincay considerable excitement was 
caused by one of the Indians working in the field being 
bitten by a poisonous serpent. The man was brought 
at once to the house, and remedies were applied which 
prevented serious results, although his leg swelled badly. 
The serpent was killed, and measured about five feet in 
length, having much the general appearance of a rattle- 
snake, but with no rattles. Don Enrique says that the 
most dangerous snake in this district is a little creature 
more brightly colored, with a smaller head, which is less 
markedly flat, and with smaller fangs; he showed us one 
of these, not more than a foot in length, from whose bite 
a man on the plantation, a year before, had died. In tell- 
ing us of this event, he gave us a suggestion of the working 
of the contract-labor system; the man who died owed one 
hundred and forty pesos of work — almost three years of 
labor; the jeje, indeed, had sent the son to work out the debt, 
but the young man soon ran away, and the most diligent 
effort to recapture him had failed. 

Perhaps two hundred persons lived as workmen on the 
jinca of El Triunfo. They were, of course, all Indians, and 



^i 




CHOLS 389 

were about evenly divided between Tzendals and Chols; 
it was impossible to gather them for measurement till Sunday, 
when they all came to the house and the store. It was a day 
of amusement and recreation for the laborers, a day when 
all of them — men, women, children — drank quantities of 
liquor. It was interesting to watch them as they came up 
to the store to make their little purchases for the week. 
All were in their best clothing, and family groups presented 
many interesting scenes. On Sundays and fiestas, they 
play toro — one man creeping into a framework of light 
canes covered with leather, meant to represent a bull, while 
others play the part of bull-fighters. The Chols present 
a well-marked type. They are short, broad-headed and 
dark-skinned; their noses are among the most aquiline in 
Mexico. Men, especially those of Tumbala, have a charac- 
teristic mode of cropping the hair; that on the back of the 
head is cut close, leaving the hair of the forward third of the 
head longer. The men are almost immediately recognized, 
wherever met, by the characteristic camisa, made of white 
cotton, vertically striped with narrow lines of pink, which is 
woven in the Choi towns, and does not appear to be used 
by other Indians. 

The doors of the hospitable home at El Triunfo are ever 
open, and a day rarely passes without some traveller seeking 
shelter and entertainment. Spaniards, Mexicans, Germans, 
Englishmen, Americans, all are welcome, and during the 
few days of our stay, the house was never free of other 
visitors. Among these was Stanton Morrison, famous 
in Yale's football team in '92; he now lives in this district, 
and has a coffee finca four hours' ride away. 

Finally, at 10:10 Tuesday morning, April 2d, having 
completed all our work, we started from El Triunfo for 
our last ride of the season. We could easily have gone, 
starting in the early morning, to El Sal to before night; as it 



390 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

was, Don Enrique planned a different method. We had 
good animals, which he had loaned us, or for which he had 
arranged for us with the muleteers. At two o'clock we 
reached La Trinidad, where he had promised that we should 
eat the finest meal in the State of Chiapas. We found a 
complete surprise. Trinidad is little more than a yiwca, or 
rancho, but it has an agente, and quite a population of Choi 
Indians. The agente was a decent-looking fellow, active 
and ambitious ; he talks a little English, and is something of 
an amateur photographer. His house of poles and mud 
presented no notable external features, but within, it was 
supplied with furniture so varied and abundant as is rare 
in any part of Mexico. Chairs, rockers, tables, cupboards, 
washstands, all were there; and beds, real beds, which 
for cleanness were marvels. As soon as we entered the 
house, fresh water and clean towels were brought. On 
the tables were vases of fresh-gathered flowers, in quantities, 
and beautifully arranged. The visible service for all this 
elegance, and for the meals, were two little Indian girls not 
more than six or eight years old, neatly dressed, and an 
Indian boy of the same size and cleanness. The invisible 
helpers were buxom Indian girls, well-dressed and clean, 
but who never came into the room where we were, leaving 
all carrying, setting of tables, and serving, in the hands of 
these three little servants. There was, indeed, one other 
person in the household — a beautiful girl, slender and 
refined, whose relation to the master I do not know, but 
who was treated by him as if she were a veritable queen, 
or some lovely flower in the wilderness. Here we rested, 
ate and slept in comfort, and here, when morning came, we 
paid a bill which ordinarily would have seemed large; how- 
ever, if one finds beautiful flowers in the wilderness, he must 
expect to pay. It was worth while paying to enjoy the 
best sleep, in the best bed, that one had had for months. 








D 
Q 
Z 



fa 

4 *■ o 

-J ^ 



CHOLS 391 

The agente rode with us in the morning quite a league 
upon our road, to a place which he was clearing for a milpa. 
We had heard so much of the horrors of the road to El Salto, 
that we were prepared for the worst. It was not an abrupt 
descent, as we had expected, but for the most part level, over 
black mud. There were a few ups and downs, and there 
was one limestone hill with tree-ferns and begonias, and 
all that that implies. Much of the way we had a drizzling 
rain, and everywhere the air was hot and heavy. After four 
hours' riding, we stopped at ten to eat a breakfast which we 
had brought with us, and then rode through to El Salto, 
where we arrived at 12:30. This is the cabecera of the 
district, and the jefe could not understand why we should 
continue on our journey, as the steamer would not leave 
until the following day. Don Enrique, however, had urged 
us not to stop at El Salto, where he insisted the risk from 
yellow fever was great. He advised us to go on to La 
Cruzada, where he had a house and an agent, and where, 
he told us, we could arrange for sleeping and eating as 
comfortably, and far more safely, than in the town. The 
distance was short, but the place, in truth, was dreary. The 
landing was at the bottom of a little slope, at the upper edge 
of which stood Don Enrique's place, the storehouse of the 
steamship company, the house and barnyard of the manager 
of the mule trains, and one or two unattractive huts. When 
we arrived, we found that the mayor domo had that day 
resigned, and left the place, going to El Salto; before he 
left, he quarreled with the cook, and she had gone off in 
high dudgeon. Two young employes, left behind, advised 
us to return to El Salto until the time of embarkation. 
We, however, had left El Salto behind us, and had our lug- 
gage with us, and were little inclined to retrace our steps. 
After some grumbling, we were supplied with beds, but told 
that the food problem was impossible. After much wheed- 



392 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

ling, coaxing, bribing, and threatening, a woman in one of 
the huts promised to cook something for us, and we had 
nothing more to do but wait, until the s-teamer should be 
ready. The chief excitement of the day was when the mule 
trains were driven in, towards evening. With them came 
a swarm of mosquitoes, which absolutely darkened the air. 
Fortunately they did not stay, but after an hour and a half 
of troubling, disappeared as suddenly as they arrived. The 
river had fallen to that degree that it was impossible for our 
steamer, the Mariscal, to come up to La Cruzada, and we 
learned that it was anchored about a league down the river. 
A flatboat, poled by indians, came up to the landing, ready 
to receive cargo and passengers, and to transfer them to the 
steamer. In the morning, the loading of the flatboat and the 
getting ready for departure, took all our thought. At ten 
o'clock Mr. and Mrs. Ellsworth, with their baby and two 
servants, appeared in small canoes, which had been poled 
by indians from the plantation, several hours' journey up the 
Michol River. At the last moment, Mr. Ellsworth had 
decided to accompany his party to the city. When every- 
thing was loaded, quite promptly, at twelve o'clock, the flat- 
boat pushed out from its moorings. Mr. Ellsworth's 
little launch was standing at the landing, and he invited me 
to ride in it, with him and Mrs. Ellsworth and the baby, to 
the steamer. We started off right proudly in the Miriam, 
but, alas, pride goes before destruction, and we had hardly 
left the heavy flatboat a little behind us, when our machinery 
broke down, and we had to wait until the clumsy scow over- 
took us, when we became common passengers again, and 
drifted down the stream to the Mariscal, passing the Lumeha 
plantation, an American enterprise. 

The Mariscal itself was a little steamer, too small for the 
passengers and freight it had to carry. It had no beds nor 
cabin; it was dirty and crowded; it had not food enough to 




Chols Resting; La Trinidad 



CHOLS 



393 



feed the first-class passengers, who paid twenty-five pesos 
each for their short journey. There was, indeed, no other 
class of passengers, only one grade of tickets being sold. 
When complaints were made of the accommodations, or lack 
of all accommodations, the agente, who was on the vessel 
with us, expressed surprise, and seemed profoundly hurt. 
The stream is full of curves and bends, is broad, and notably 
uniform in breadth; it has considerable current, and is 
bordered closely by the tropical forest, except where little 
clearings have been made for fincas. Formerly, caimans, 
or alligators, were common, but they have become rare, 
through the diligent hunting to which they have been sub- 
jected for supplying skins. Two days are usually taken in 
the journey to Frontera, though it is not a fifteen hours' run. 
Mr. Ellsworth arranged for our going directly through, so 
that, except one stop at a midway station, we made a con- 
tinuous journey, and drew up at Frontera at 9:50 in the 
morning. 

It is a mean little town, but far cleaner than Coatza- 
coalcos. Real grass grows there, and the little plaza is almost 
a lawn. Last year, when yellow fever was so terrible at 
Coatzacoalcos, and when, even at El Sal to, there were 
forty cases, there were none here. The town is hot, and 
during the two days we spent there, our chief effort was to 
keep cool. The steamer, Mexico, appeared upon the 6th, 
planning to leave the same day. A norther came, however, 
and rendered the bar impassable. In the morning, Easter 
Sunday, the wind had fallen somewhat. We saw the little 
celebration at the church, and, learning that the boat was 
likely to leave at noon, went aboard. At one we started. 
Sailing down the river, we soon found ourselves between the 
piers, and the moment of test had come. At the first thump 
of the keel upon the sand, we doubted whether we should 
pass the bar; still we kept along with steam full on and the 



394 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

bow headed seaward ; nine times we struck the sandy bottom, 
but then found ourselves in deeper water, and were again 
upon the Gulf. The Mexico was just as dirty, the food was 
just as bad, and the crew just as unaccommodating, as in 
1896, when we had our first experience of her. Rather 
than lie in the stuffy cabin, I took my blanket out on deck, 
and rolled up there for the night. Room was plenty, as there 
were only a score of passengers. When we woke, the boat was 
standing in the harbor of Coatzacoalcos, and we landed to eat 
a breakfast at the hotel. Through the day, we wandered 
about town, but were again upon the vessel at four o'clock. 
We now numbered about a hundred passengers, and every- 
thing was crowded. In the company was a comic theatre 
troupe. The day before, a number of the passengers had 
been seasick; on this occasion, three-fourths were suffering, 
and the decks were a disgusting spectacle. Still, fresh air 
was there, and again I made my bed on deck. In the 
middle of the night, having moved slightly, I felt a sharp 
and sudden pain in my right temple, exactly as if I had rolled 
upon a sharp, hot tack. I had my jacket for a pillow, 
and thought at first that there really was a tack in one of 
the pockets, and sought, but in vain, to find it. Lying down 
to sleep again, I presently moved my hand over the blanket 
on the deck, and suddenly, again, I felt the sharp, burning 
prick, this time in my thumb. Certain that it could not be 
a tack this time, I brought my hand down forcibly, and, rising, 
saw by the moonlight that I had killed a large, black scorpion. 
For two hours the stings felt like fire, but by morning had 
ceased to pain me; then I found two or three of the other 
passengers suffering from similar stings, and reached the 
conclusion that the Mexico was swarming with the creatures. 
At dawn, we sighted Vera Cruz, and were soon in the har- 
bor, standing at anchor; at eight o'clock, we stood upon the 
wharf, and our journeys in Indian Mexico were ended. 




Indian Hut; Santa Anita 







1^. _ 



Guadalupe; Decembf.r 12 



i 

SI 



CHAPTER XXVII 

CONCLUSION 

TDUT it was not necessary to go to distant Oaxaca and 
-'--' Chiapas to find Mexican indians. On the border of the 
capital city lie Santa Anita, Iztacalco, Mexicalcingo, Ixta- 
palapa, and a quantity of other villages and towns, where 
one may still find Aztec indians of pure blood, sometimes 
speaking the old language, sometimes wearing characteristic 
dress, and maintaining, to the present, many ancient prac- 
tices and customs. At Santa Anita, for example, one may 
eat juiles and tamales, catch a glimpse of Indian weddings, 
and delight his eyes with the fresh beauty of the chinampas, 
— wonderful spots of verdure and flowers — the floating 
gardens of the ancient Aztecs. Half an hour, or less, in the 
tram-car takes the traveller to Guadalupe, which may be 
called the heart of Indian Mexico. There, on the rock of 
Tepeyac, the Virgin appeared to Juan Diego; there, in 
,the churches, dedicated in honor of that apparition, thou- 
sands of indians, from leagues around, gather yearly. 
On December 12, in the crowded streets of Guadalupe, 
groups, fantastically garbed as indians, dance in the Virgin's 
honor, and in their songs and dances, modem though they 
be, can be found suggestions of the olden time. Now and 
then, one may witness, what I saw in December, 1895 — ^ 
group of indian pilgrims from a distant town, singing and 
dancing to the Virgin, within the great church itself. And 
near the high altar, where thick glass plates are set into the 
floor, letting a dim light into the crypts below, one may see 
crowds of indians rubbing the smooth surface with their 

395 



396 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

diseased parts to effect a cure. On the streets of the capi- 
tal city, one daily sees bands of pure Otomis in rags and 
filth, bringing their loads of charcoal and of corn to market. 
Their ugly dark faces, their strange native dress, their harsh 
language, make on the stranger an impression not easily 
forgotten. 

Reliable figures are wanting as to the number of pure 
Mexican Indians. If th^ population of the Republic be 
estimated at fifteen millions, it should be safe to say that 
five millions of this number are Indians of pure blood, speak- 
ing their old language, keeping alive much of the ancient 
life and thought. In some parts of Mexico, it almost seems 
as if what white-blood once existed is now breeding out. 
The Indian of Mexico is conservative; he does not want 
contact with a larger world ; his village suffices for his needs ; 
he is ready to pay taxes for the sake of being let alone, to 
live in peace, after the way his fathers lived. In his bosom 
there is still hatred of the white man and the mestizo, and 
distrust of every stranger. The Chamula outbreak in 
1868, and the Maya war just ended, are examples of this 
smouldering hatred. Mexico has a serious problem in its 
Indians; the solution of the problem has been attempted in 
various ways, according to whether the population dealt 
with was Totonac, Yaqui, Maya: it is no small task, to 
build a nation out of an indian population. 

Soon after the publication of my "Indians of Southern 
Mexico," I had the pleasure of presenting a copy of the 
book to President Diaz, and of looking through its pictures 
with him. When we came to the general view of Yodocono, 
and its little lake, tears stood in the old man's eyes as he 
said, "Sir, that was my mother's birthplace, and in her 
honor I have established, at my own expense, two schools, 
one for boys, and one for girls." Looking at the round 
huts of Chicahuastla, he shivered, and remarked: "Ah, 



CONCLUSION 397 



sir, but it is cold in Chicahuastla." I replied, "Your Excel- 
lency, I see that you have been in Chicahuastla." When 
he saw the Zapotec types, from the District of Tehuantepec, 
he said: "They are fine large fellows; they make good 
soldiers; when I was Governor of Oaxaca, I had a body- 
guard of them." He then told me of the six orphan boys 
who, in memory of his body-guard, he had adopted and 
educated; he told me with pride of the success which the 
five who still live had made, and of the positions they were 
filling. When he reached the portrait of the little Mixtec, 
carrying a sack of corn, who, with pride, had told me, in 
answer to my question, that his name was Porfirio Diaz, 
the President of the Republic looked long and earnestly 
at the picture, and I noticed that, when we turned the pages, 
his finger marked the spot where the likeness of his name- 
sake was, and, when the book was finished, before closing 
it, he turned back again, and looked at the little fellow's 
face. At the first Otomi portrait, he had said: "Ah, sir, 
but my schools will change the Otomis." 

It would be pleasant to have faith in President Diaz' 
solution of the Otomi problem, but to me it seems doubtful. 
Of course, I recall with pleasure my visit to the boys' school 
at San Nicolas Panotla. It was interesting to see those 
little Tlaxcalan fellows solve problems in alligation and 
percentage, in bonds and mortgages; but it is doubtful 
whether any of them, in actual life, will have to deal with 
blending coffees, or with selling bonds, and cutting coupons. 
Still, from such Indian towns great men have come in the 
past, and great men will come in the future. Benito Juarez, 
who laid the foundations on which Diaz has so magnificently 
built, was a pure-blood Zapotec. From the Aztecs, the 
Tlaxcalans, Mixtecs, Zapotecs and Mayas, we may hope 
much in the future. They were races of achievement in the 
past, and the monuments of their achievement still remain. 



398 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

But that the Otomi, the Triqui, or the Mixe, should be 
made over by the schools is doubtful. Personally, I feel 
that the prosperity of Mexico rests more upon the Indian 
blood than on any other element of national power. That 
schools will do much to train the more gifted tribes perhaps 
is true. But there are indians, and Indians, in Mexico. 



GLOSSARY OF SPANISH AND 
INDIAN WORDS 

abuses, abuses, disturbances. 

adios. adieu, good-bye. 

agente. agent. 

agua. water. 

agua bendita. blessed water. 

agua miel. lit. honey water, the unfermented juice of the maguey. 

aguardiente, a spirituous liquor. 

aguas frescas. refreshing drinks. 

ahuacate. a fruit, the alligator pear. 

aje, or axe. an insect ; a greasy mass, yielding a lacquer-like lustre. 

alcalde, a town judge. 

arbol. tree. 

arriero. a convoyer of loaded mules or horses. 

atole. a corn gruel. 

autorizada. authorized, having authority. 

axolotl. a water salamander, with peculiar life-history. 

ayatl, or ayate. a carry-cloth. 

barranca, a gorge, or gully. 

bruja. witch. 

brujeria. witch-craft. 

burro, ass. 

cabecera. the head-town of a district. 

cafe, coffee. 

caiman, a reptile much like an alligator. 

camaron. shrimp. 

camisa. shirt. 

cantera, cantero. a water-jar, or pitcher. 

cargador. carrier. 

carreta. cart. 

carretero. a carter. 

cascaron. an eggshell filled with bits of cut paper. 

Catalan, a wine, named from a Spanish town. 

.^9Q 



400 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

cenote. a cave with water. » 

centavo. a coin, the one-hundredth part of a peso; a cent. 

chac mool. a stone figure, found at Chichen Itza, Yucatan. 

chalupa. a boat-shaped crust with meat or \egetables in it. 

chamara. a blanket for wearing. 

champurrado. a mixture, as of atole and chocolate. 

chapapote. chewing-gum. 

chicha. an intoxicant made from sugar-cane. 

chicle, chewing-gum. 

chinampa. "floating garden," a garden patch, 

chirimiya. a shrill musical instrument, somewhat like a fife or flageolet. 

chirimoya. the custard-apple. 

cigarro. cigarette. 

cincalotl, cincalote. granary. 

clarin. a bird, with clear note. 

cochero. coachman. 

colorin. a tree. 

comiteco. a spirits made at Comitan. 

Conquista. Conquest. 

copal, a gum, much used as incense. 

coro. loft. 

corral, an enclosure for animals. 

costumbre. custom. 

coton, cotones. a man's upper garment, a sort of poncho. 

cuartel. barracks. 

cuezcomatl, cuezcomate. granary. 

cura. parish priest. 

curato. parish house. 

danza. dance. 

doctrina. doctrine, catechism. 

don. Mr., used only when the Christian name of a person is spoken. 

dulce. sweet, sweetmeat. 

dulcero. maker or seller of sweets. 

dulceria. sweetmeat factory. 

enagua. woman's skirt. 

enchilada, a fried tortilla with chili and cheese. 

feria. fair. 

fiesta, festival. 

finca. farm, plantation. 

firma. signature. 



GLOSSARY 401 



fiscal, fiscal officer, 
frijol, frijoles. bean, beans, 
golondrina. swallow, 
gramatica. grammar. 

gringo, somewhat derisive term applied to foreigners, especially Amer- 
icans, 
guardia. guard, 
hacienda, a country-place. 

haciendado, haciendero. the owner of an hacienda, 
hennequin. a plant producing fibre, sisal hemp, 
hermita. a retired shrine, 
herreria. smithy, forge, ironworks, 
h'men. conjuror, 
huehuetes. the old ones, 
huehuetl, huehuete. the ancient upright drum, 
huerfano. orphan. 

huipil, huipili. a woman's waist garment, 
huipilili. a woman's waist garment, worn under the huipil. 
idioma. idiom, language. 

incomunicado. solitary, not allowed communication, 
itinerario. itinerary, 
itztli. obsidian. 

ixtli. fibre from the maguey and < actus. 
jacal. a hut. 
jarabe. a popular dance. 
jicara. a gourd-cup, or vessel, 
jonote. a tree. 
Jornada, a day's march, 
juez, judge. 

ke'esh. a votive figure, 
ladino. a mestizo, a person not Indian, 
ladron, ladrones. thief, thieves, 
liana, vine, 
licenciado. lawyer. 

lima, a fruit, somewhat like an insipid orange, 
lindas. pretty (girls). 
llano, a grassy plain, 
machete, a large knife, 
maestro, teacher, a master in any trade, 
maguey, a plant, the century plant or agave, yielding pulque. 



402 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

mai, pelico. tobacco, mixed with chili and lime. 

malacatl, malacate. spindle- whorl. 

malinche. malinche. 

mamey. a fruit, orange flesh and brown exterior. 

manta. cotton-cloth, a woman's dress. 

manana. to-morrow. 

mapachtl. a small animal, perhaps the raccoon or badger. 

mapaho. beating-sticks, for cleaning cotton. 

mayores. chiefs, village elders, police. 

medio, six centavos. 

meson, a house for travellers. 

mescal, a spirits, made from an agave. 

mestizo, a person of mixed blood. 

metate. stone upon which corn is ground. 

milagro. miracle. 

milpa. cornfield. 

mogote. a mound or tumulus. 

mole, a stew, highly seasoned with chili. 

mole prieto. black mole. 

moral, a tree, mulberry. 

mozo. a young man, a servant. 

mudo. mute, dumb. 

mulada. a mule train. 

muneco. doll, figure. 

municipio. town, town-government, town-house. 

nacimiento. an arrangement of figures and grotto-work, made at 

Christmastide. 
nada. nothing, 
nagual. conjuror, 
negrito. (diminutive) negro, 
nublina. mist, fog. 
ocote. pine-tree, splinter of pine, 
otro. other, 
padre, father, priest, 
padrecito. priest. 

pais, country, esp. one's native town, 
panela. sugar in cake or loaf, 
papaya, a fruit. 

pastorela. a drama relative to the Nativity, 
pastores . shepherds . 



GLOSSARY 403 



patio, inside court of house. *; 

pelico, mai. tobacco, with chili and lime. ' 

peso, a money denomination, one hundred centavos, one dollar. '. 

petate. mat. j 

pinolillo. a species of tick. ' 

pinto, a disease, spotted skin. i 

pita, a fibre. 

pitero. a fifer. 

pito- fife. 

plaza, town square. 

portales. a building with corridor in front. ■ 

posol, posole. corn prepared to carry on journey, for mixing with water. j 

prefecto. prefect. ) 

presidente. president. j 

principales. principal men, councillors. ' 

pueblito. small pueblo, village. 

pulque, an intoxicant, made from maguey sap. 

quichiquemil. a woman's upper garment. 

rancho. a country-place. 

ranchito. a small ranch. 

rebozo. a woman's garment, a wrap or light shawl. ' 

regidor. alderman. j 

remedio. remedy. j 

sangre. blood. 

santo, santito. saint. j 

seiior. sir, gentleman. i 

senora. madam, lady. ' 

sefiorita. Miss, young woman. I 

serape. a blanket, for wearing. j 

sindico. recorder. ] 

soltero. an unmarried man. j 

sombrero, hat. { 

subida. ascent. 

labia, board. j 

tamales. dumplings of corn-meal. l| 

tambour, drum. j 

tatita. papa. < 

tepache. a fermented drink. * 

teponastl, teponaste. the ancient horizontal drum. j 

tienda. store, shop. ' 



404 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

tierra caliente. hot country. 

tigre. tiger, jaguar. 

tinaja. water-jar. 

topil. a messenger or police. 

toro. bull. 

tortillas, corn-cakes, cooked on a griddle. 

tortuga. turtle. 

tsupakwa. dart-thrower. 

ule. rubber. 

vaca. cow. 

vamonos. come on, we are going. 

viejos. old. 

vomito. yellow fever. 

xalama. a tree. 

xtol, xtoles. a dancer, or dancers (see Merida, narrative). 

zacate, sacate. hay, fodder. 



ITINERARY 

The expedition of 1896 was preliminary. We went by rail from 
the City of Mexico to Oaxaca, capital of the state of the same 
name. Thence, we journeyed by horse through the states of 
Oaxaca and Chiapas, to the city of Guatemala, entering the Re- 
pubUc of Guatemala at Nenton. The return journey was made 
by rail to the Pacific port of San Jose, steamer to Sahna Cruz, rail 
to Coatzacoalcos, steamer to Vera Cruz, and rail to the City of 
Mexico. Only the portion of this journey between Oaxaca and 
Nenton is here described, the rest not lying in Indian Mexico. 
The City of Mexico was headquarters for the work in 1897-98, 
A trip was made by rail from there to Dos Rios, to measure and 
photograph the Otomis of Huixquilucan, in the state of Mexico. 
Thence we went to Patzcuaro by rail, and studied the Tarascans 
in the villages about Lake Patzcuaro, visiting these by canoe- 
trips. We then made a trip on horseback to Uruapan (then with- 
out rail connection), returning by some important Indian towns. 
After returning to Mexico, we visited the states of Tlaxcala and 
Puebla. In and around the City of Tlaxcala, we secured our 
Tlaxcalan subjects. At Cuauhtlantzinco, we worked upon 
.\ztecs. Our experiences at this large town of Puebla are not 
described, as Bandelier has already rendered the place familiar, 
and we ourselves have written of it elsewhere. With these two 
peoples, we made our first essays at bust-making. After return- 
ing to Mexico, we went by rail, on the Guadalajara branch of the 
Mexican Central, to Negrete. From there, by coach (there being 
then no railroad) to Zamora. Thence, we struck, on horseback, 
through the Tarascan territory, across to Patzcuaro. On the 
way, we secured our full series of Tarascan busts, at the Once 
Pueblos. By rail, we went from Patzcuaro to Dos Rios, to secure 
our lacking busts of Otomis at Huixquilucan. In the second field 
expedition, January to March 1899, we worked entirely in the 
state of Oaxaca. At first a trip was made, by horse, from Oaxaca 

405 



4o6 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

into the Mixteca Alta, where Mixtecs and Triquis were studied. 
Again starting from Oaxaca, we traveled over our old trails of 1896, 
through the mountains to Tehuantepec, returning by the high- 
road in common use. Zapotecs were studied at Mitla and Tehuan- 
tepec, and the Mixes, Juaves, and Chontals in various towns and 
villages. The season's work closed by our study, at and near 
Cuicatlan, of the Cuicatecs. At this town, too, we began to work 
upon Chinantecs. In the third field expedition, during the early 
months of 1900, we visited seven populations, making our regular 
study upon six of them. To fill a week that would otherwise have 
been lost, we made a pedestrian trip through the interesting In- 
dian towns on the slopes of MaUntzi. Then, from Cuicatlan as a 
center, we made two journeys — one to San Juan Zautla and San 
Pedro Soochiapan, to examine Chinantecs; the other to Coixtla- 
huaca, for seeing Chochos. From Cuicatlan, we struck north by 
rail to San Antonio, and, by coach to Teotitlan del Camino and by 
horse beyond, penetrated to the great Mazatec town of Huauhtla. 
Chinantecs, Chochos, and Mazatecs are tribes of Oaxaca. Leav- 
ing that state, we traveled by rail to Tulancingo. From there, by 
coach and on horseback, we visited Otomi, Aztec, Tepehua and 
Totonac towns in the states of Puebla and Hidalgo. With the 
field season of 1901, our work in Indian Mexico ended. It was 
pursued in three separated areas. From the City of Mexico, we 
went by rail to Tampico. From that point, a journey by canoe 
and horse enabled us to see the Huaxtecs of the state of Vera Cruz. 
Returning to Tampico, a trip by steamer across the gulf brought 
us to Yucatan. Progreso and Merida were visited, and our work 
was done upon the Mayas hving near the town of Tekax. A second 
trip on the gulf brought us to Coatzacoalcos, whence the railroad 
was used to Tehuantepec and San Geronimo. From the latter 
point, an ox-cart journey of ten nights, across the states of Oaxaca 
and Chiapas, brought us to Tuxtla Gutierrez. By horse we con- 
tinued through Chiapas to El Salto, where we took steamer for 
Frontera. From there, by steamer to Vera Cruz and then by rail, 
we traveled to the City of Mexico. Zoques, Tzotzils, Tzendals, 
and Chols were studied in this portion of the journey. 



APPENDIX 

STARR IN OLD MEXICO 

/^AXACA, Mexico, March i.— Prof. Frederick Starr, 
^^ of the University of Chicago, is deep in the midst 
of his savages. He is manipulating primitive town gov- 
ernments, wielding the authority of federal and state gov- 
ernments, county police, and that of the clergy as well. He 
is threatening, cajoling, clapping in jail, when necessary, 
and in general conquering his series of strange nations. I 
found him doing all this, and more, in a little native village 
fifty miles from the city of Oaxaca, Feb. 2nd. The fat little 
man was complete master of the Zapotec town of Mitla, 
far distant from the end of the last of the railroads, a town 
famous for its ruins. He bustled about like a captain in a 
war haste, dressed in a massive Indian sombrero, from 
which a white string floated picturesquely behind, a neck- 
tie of slim, dusty black, which seemed not to have been 
unknotted for many a day, a shirt less immaculate than the 
one he may wear at the entertainment shortly to be given 
him in London, and no coat. The professor's trousers are 
not Indian. They are farm trousers, of an original type, 
with double seat for the saddle. 

The professor's blood was up. A grand native feast 
— in which drunken dances, bull-fights, and a state of accu- 
mulated irresponsibility are the rule — had delayed him 
three days. The Indians could no more be measured and 
"busted" — as the professor calls the making of plaster 
casts — than could the liquor they had drunk. After three 
days of pleading, threatening, and berating, in which orders 

407 



4o8 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

from every government and church official in the country, 
from lowest to highest, had failed, Prof. Starr seized the 
black-bearded and wiry president of the town council, the 
chief potentate of the reeling set, called him a drunken 
scoundrel, threatened in deep seriousness to imprison every 
man in the town, and finally won his point — but not until 
the feast was done. When feasts are over, the people are 
kindly, suave, gracious. 

Then the professor corralled those he wanted. He was 
to measure for scientific purposes loo of the Indians, in the 
order in which they chanced to present themselves. After 
such wheedling as it must have taken infinite practice to 
acquire — pattings of the Zapotec back, hugging of the 
men, chucking the children, with elaborate explanations — 
the thing "took" and the people fell into the spirit of it. 
The jail was the only accessible building, and was strangely 
empty. It was of adobe, a jail of one room, with a dirt 
floor. There were no windows, only the single barred door. 

From every cane-walled, thatched, tropical hut that 
helps to make the irregular cluster around the central plaza 
and its adjoining bull ring they came, if not to be measured, 
to see. They were driven by the highest of the town author- 
ities — for every element of the population waited on the 
bidding of the little sugar-tongued professor from the north 
— one by one into the jail, and the rest curiously watched. 
The measuring was done without undressing, but the 
"busting" was the point of chief interest. Five represen- 
tative specimens had been carefully selected for this pur- 
pose. They were won slowly, by the glitter of 75 cents of 
Mexican silver. In some towns, only 50 cents was required, 
and in others, $1. The smirking Indian, with his wildness 
hidden away, or only peeping from his eye, entered. He 
disrobed with no shame. He was put flat on the floor, 
face down, on a little piece of matting. At this stage some 



STARR IN OLD MEXICO 409 

objected. Then the Anglo-Saxon was down on the floor, 
wheedling, talking such sweetness as can be spoken with- 
out silliness only in the Spanish tongue. 

The victim finally consents. Then the Mexican plaster 
worker, who has followed the caravan from its start, goes 
to work. He makes a cast of the back of the head and 
shoulders, and the Indian is turned over, face up. Another 
cast of the breast and neck and chin is made, and yet an- 
other of the front half of the head and the face, with little 
tubes for breathing sticking through it. The Indian has 
grunted, snorted, laughed and squirmed, but he has been 
made to understand that he must be still. That great 75 
cents is held always over him, and the thing is accomplished. 

During all the process, the crowd of Indians about and 
in the jail was eager-eyed and astonished. The women 
wear odd woolen, blanket-like skirts of red or black, folded 
in two great plaits down the front. The dress does not 
reach the ankles, and the feet are bare. They carry the 
baby on the back, wound in the rebozo, with its bare legs 
straddling her and sticking out. The men wear a sandal 
quite different from the ordinary Mexican footgear. 

Of the 100 that were to be measured, Jose was one. 
Jose was of a better family, a character in the town, and 
proud. He rebelled. This breach of the professor's 
authority could not be allowed. Jose was summoned by 
the president of the town, the honeyed, affable "Sefior 
Presidente," the same who had been called the drunken 
scoundrel, now accommodating, a true and emotional friend. 
Jose sent a thousand excuses, and finally defiance. 

"That man," cried the professor, showing his writ of 
authority from the jeje politico of the district, "I order 
to be arrested." 

Jose did not flee. He was found next morning in the 
bull ring riding a bull. He was arrested by the Chicagoan's 



4IO IN INDIAN MEXICO 

orders, and taken to jail. He was peremptorily ordered 
by the professor to appear for the measurement. He 
escaped, and again defied the powers. He was again caught, 
and it was explained to him by the president that this man 
of might from the beyond had sworn to drag Jose with him 
all the way across this wild country slowly to Tehuantepec, 
thence back to the city of Oaxaca, where the state authori- 
ties would deal most painfully with him. And this, indeed, 
in mighty manner and impressively, had the "man from the 
beyond" sworn to do. Jose came and was measured, and 
I afterward saw him calling to the professor to come and 
take a jolly drink out of the gourd he was shaking at him, 
in the manner of a comrade. 

In the afternoon, the work being done, the civilities 
and sugared conduct must be continued, with a view to 
future visits. The professor wanted to enter the church, 
which, though modern, stands in the middle of one of the 
mysterious ruins. The church was locked, and the mayor- 
domo not to be found. 

''But I must photograph a strange picture you have in 
there." 

"The mayor-domo is drunk, at your service, my most 
excellent friend, " replied the president, sympathetically. 
"I am sorry, but he got under the influence three days ago 
at the beginning of the feast, and he has slept ever since. 
Ah, the mayor-domo is sleeping now, my excellent friend, 
and he has the keys." 

"You shall send a boy into the tower to ring the bell 
and wake the mayor-domo," cried the professor. 

The crowd sat on the stone steps, the bell was pealed, 
and at last the church was opened, and the picture photo- 
graphed. 

The procession then moved to the top of an ancient 
pyramid, in which tombs have been opened, and bones and 



STARR IN OLD MEXICO 411 



gold ornaments found. The professor dashed through all 
the tunnels, with the government after him, before mounting 
to the top. On top a strange conversation was held between 
the professor and the president and secretary. They 
appealed to this northern man, who seemed to have all 
earthly authority back of him, to grant them one longed-for 
boon. Would he not please speak, when he returned to the 
capital, to the minister of encouragement, that he send them 
a brass band! They wanted to welcome northern visitors 
to the ruins with modem music. 

''You have great power. You need but to ask of those 
in Mexico and the band will come. Most beloved friend, 
oh, most excellent professor from the far north, give to us 
a brass band! " And the professor promised to speak to 
Minister Leal about it. Then, too, the beastly state govern- 
ment was dragging some of their precious ruins away to put 
in a museum. Would the professor please have the kindness 
to stop this? The professor promised to do what he could, 
and he was hugged and blessed and patted by the simple 
people. 

Prof. Starr began his ethnological studies to westward 
of Oaxaca. Mitla is eastward. In the west, he visited 
two tribes — the Mixtecas and the Triquis. The latter are 
a branch of the former, but much different, living in round 
bamboo huts, surprisingly like those of some African tribes. 
He secured two excellent casts of the Triquis, and three of 
the Mixtecas. He intended to take five of each tribe he 
visited, but his plaster failed to arrive. He studies the lan- 
guages, also, as he goes, and finds many varying dialects, 
from each of which he secures a test vocabulary of 200 
words. He is now approaching the Mixes, the ''cannibals." 
All the City of Mexico papers laugh at the idea of his en- 
countering the slightest danger, and the professor himself 
scoffs at it. He believes some of the Mixes have, within 



412 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

forty years, eaten human flesh, but he says he is certain 
they are harmless now. 

Charles F. Embree. 
[From The Chicago Record: March 24, 1899.] 



THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA BABIES 

"i^THEN I was in Yucatan in 1901 the parish priest 
^^ of Texax told me that it was said that every pure 
blood Maya Indian has a violet or purple spot on his 
back, in the sacral region. He stated that this spot was 
called by the native name, uits, "bread," and that it was 
vulgar or insulting to make reference to it. I at once ex- 
amined three Mayas of pure blood — a boy of ten years 
and two adult males — but found no trace of such a spot. I 
concluded that the presence of the spot might be an infan- 
tile character, as it is among the Japanese, but at that time 
I had no opportunity to examine Maya babies. 

Dr. Baelz, a German physician, who has spent many 
years in Japan, long ago called attention to the existence of 
such spots on Japanese infants. The spots described by 
him were of a blue or purple color, were located upon the 
back (especially in the sacral region), and were variable 
in form and size. They were temporary, disappearing at 
from two to eight years of age. The occurrence of these 
infantile color blotches was so common in Japan as to be 
almost characteristic of the race. 

In time, other students reported similar spots on other 
Asiatic babies, and on non-Asiatic babies of Mongolian or 
Mongoliod peoples. Chinese, Annamese, Coreans, Green- 
land Eskimos, and some Malays are now known to have 
such spots. Sacral spots have also been reported among 
Samoans and Hawaiians. 

Practically, all these people belong to the great yellow 
race, as defined by De Quatrefages, and are, if not pure 

413 



414 IN INDIAN MEXICO 

representatives of that race, mixed bloods, in part, of it. 
Baelz and some other writers have, therefore, gone so far 
as to consider the purple sacral spot a mark peculiar to 
that race, and to believe its occurrence proof of Mongolian 
origin. They have asked whether the spot occurs among 
American Indians, and would consider its occurrence evi- 
dence of an Asiatic origin for our native tribes. Satisfac- 
tory observations had not been made. Baelz himseK 
found two cases among Vancouver Island Indians. 

In my recent trip to Mexico I planned to look for this 
spot among several Indian tribes. Out of six populations 
that I expected to visit I really saw but two — the Aztecs 
and the Mayas. I do not believe that the sacral spot 
exists among Aztecs. I made no search, because Aztec 
friends, who would be sure to know, all agreed in denying 
its occurrence. Among the Mayas, the case is different. 
In the little Maya town of Palenque I examined all the pure 
blood babies. The back of the first little creature bared 
for my inspection bore a clearly defined, dark blue-purple 
spot, just where it might be expected. The spot was almost 
two inches wide and nearly three-fourths of an inch high. 
The child was a boy of eight months. A brother, two 
years old, showed no trace of the spot, but the mother says 
it was formerly well defined. 

Every one of the seven pure Maya babies, below ten 
months old, in the town was purple-spotted. A pair of 
boy twins, two months old, were marked in precisely the 
same place with pale blue-purple spots, of the same size 
and form. In one boy of ten months the spot seemed to be 
disappearing and was represented by three ill-defined and 
separated blotches. In the village, there were three babies 
of suitable age, but of mixed — Spanish- Maya — blood; no 
one of these showed any trace of the colored spot. We may 
say, then, that in Palenque every Maya baby below ten 



THE PURPLE SPOT ON MAYA BABIES 415 

months of age was sacral spotted, and that no Mestizo baby 
was. 

Does this prove that the Mayas are Asiatics by ances- 
try? The daily press asserts that I make that claim; it 
is mistaken. I am free to say I don't know what to do with 
my spotted Maya babies. I presume that Baelz will 
cousin them with his little Japanese. 

Frederick Starr. 

From The Chicago Tribune: January 11, 1903. 



INDEX 



abandoned river course, 374. 

acacia, 97, 216. 

Acala, 48, 361. 

Agua Bendita (Chiap), 44, 348. 

Agua Bendita (Mex.), 64. 

agua miel, 61. 

aguardiente, 255. 

Aguazotepec, 240. 

aje, 45: insect, 46; 79. 

Ajuno, 76, 84, 107. 

Akxotla, 191. 

alcaldes indios, 357. 

alligators, 277, 290. 

Ancona, Bishop, 300. 

antiquities, 116, 223, 230, 239, 288, 345. 

ant — foraging, 289; — honey, 190. 

apparition of the Virgin, 395. 

Aranza, 82. 

arbol huerfano, 196. 

arriero — tardy, 271 ; — unreliable, 358; 

— abandons us, 385. 
Arroyo — Jefe, 247. 
Atla, 245; carry-sacks, 256; costume, 

256; witchcraft, 256. 
Atlihuitzia — Santa Maria, 195. 
axolotl, 64. 
ayate, 58, 267, 271, 
Ayutla, 23, 149. 
Aztec, 242, 279, 281, 283, 285, 397; 

breakfast, 196. 

babies — carrying, 267; — care of, 57. 

bamboo, 289. 

band — Huauhtla, 237; — honors us, 

124. 
bandolier, 318. 
Barela, Sr. and Sra., 189. 
barkpaper, 245, 246, 268. 
Baron, 293, 320. 
barranca, 190, 191, 214, 280, 363. 
Barrios — Pedro, 230. 
basalt, 196, 249. 
battle of flowers, 321. 
begonia, 246. 
Belen, 194. 
bells — pottery, 112. 
Benito Juarez — steamer, 293. 
Bernal Diaz, 91. 
bishop — Merida, 300. 
blackflies, 343. 
Blanco — Juan, 303, 316. 



blessing — a mother's, in. 

bloom — trees, 340, 364. 

Boca del Rio — rancho, 168. 

books — Mixe, 155;— Mixtec, 141; Zap- 

otec, 165. 
bowls — calabash, 353. 
boxes — scarce, 370. 
boy — work of, 35, 37: — and iguana, 

54. 
breech-clout, 344. 
bridge — covered, 77; — of vines, 32, 

207. 
Brinton, 374. 
bromelias, 22, 27, 126, 154, 199, 207, 

219, 232. 
brujeria, 246, 256, 376. 
bull met, 214. 
burning fields, 374, 376. 
bust-making, 65, 99, 104, 146, 234, 382. 

de Butrie — M. and Mme., 235, 236, 

237- 
cactus, 8, II, 181, 182, 217, 329; — 

pitahaya, 96. 
Cahuantzi — Gov. Prospero, 85, 94, 

.193- 
caimans, 290. 
cairn, 218. 
calabashes, 314. 
caladium, 201, 249. 
calandria, 334. 
Calistro — Antonio, 61. 
camalpa, 191. 
camaron, 276. 
Camotlan, 32, 155. 
camp — traveller's, 178. 
Campeche, 306, 355 ; — banks, 295. 
canal, 291. 
Cancuc, 365, 366, 371, 374; — outbreak, 

374; — reception, 375; — music, 376; 

— dress, 377. 
Candelaria — Maria, 374. 

canoes, 275, 289, 360; — Tarascan, 68; 

— travel, 277; — empty, 292. 
Canton — Gov. Francisco, 300, 301, 

355- 
Capacuaro, 78, 80. 
Carapan, 104. 
Carizal, 342. 

carnival, 239, 317, 318, 321, 324. 
Carrera, 52. 



417 



4t8 



INDEX 



carretero, 333, 334, 342, 343;— camp- 


la Cienega, 349. 




ing, 338. 


cincalote, 60. 




carriers, 53, 54. — small, but devoted, 


circus, 42. 




384,386; — trouble, 206. 


Citala, 378. 




carry-frame, 243. 


Citlaltepec, 277, 279. 




carts, 95, 333. 


clays, 128. 




cartroad, 45, 48, 139, 342. 


cleanliness of person, 297. 




Carvajal, 179. 


climate — results, 306. 




cascades, 262. 


cloud-effects, 196; — lake, 26; 


— cat- 


cascarones, 239. 


aract, 28. 




Castle, Dr., 164, 165, 170, 328, 329. 


coach — unreliable, 228, 229;- 


— well- 


Castolo — Zapotec boy, 35, 159. 


loaded, 315; — fictitious, 331. 




cattle, among Juaves, 168; — loading, 


Coatlan, 34, 157. 




294; driving, 348. 


Coatzacoalcos, 293, 325, 326, 33 


I. 351. 


cave, near Comitan, 50; — writch's. 


393- 




near Atla, 256; — near Pantepec,269; 


cochero — troublesome, 242. 




near Tekax, 313, 314. 


cockroaches, 378. 




cave formations, 315. 


cocoa palms, 169, 181. 




cave — hat-makers, 224. 


cocoles, 287. 




celebration — St. Martin's eve, 62. 


coffee, 155; — plantation, 387 


; — es- 


cemetery — visits to, 165. 


sence, 204. 




Cempoalteca — family, 92. 


Coixtlahuaca, 220, 224, 226; 


— hat- 


cempoalxochil, 257. 


making, 224; — celebration, 


224. 


cenotes, 297, 316. 


color-massing of flowers, 212. 




chacalacca, 334, 343. 


colorin tree, 268. 




chacmool, 319. 


comales, 127. 




chalcedony, 38, 139. 


Comitan, 51. 




chamara, 366, 367. 


comiteco, 51. 




champurado, 196. 


condolence — visit, 174. 




Chamula, 45, 365, 366, 367, 37 1;— 


conglomerate, 181, 182, 377. 




outbreak, 366, 396. 


Conkal, 297. 




chapapote, 288, 291, 292. 


contract-labor system, 384, 388. 




chavacanes, 287. 


convent-church, 140. 




Checheb, 366. 


cookhouse, 88. 




Cheran, 78, 82, 106. 


cooking, 339. 




chert, 129. 


copal, 252. 




Chiapa, 45, 353, 360, 361, 364;— lac- 


Cordoba woman, 217, 227. 




quer, 45. 


Cordova — Javier, 128, 135. 




Chiapanecs, 361. 


corpse rejected, 189. 




Chiapas, 293, 340; — Indians, 44. 


Cortez' trail, 196. 




Chicago Record, 405; — Tribune, 411. 


cosmopolitan group, 325. 




Chicahuastla, 131, 396; — an afternoon 


costumbre-annual, — Otomi, 250 


;-To- 


in, 133- 


tonac, 252. 




chicha, 377. 


costume, 242; — Juave, 169; — 


Maza- 


Chichen-Itza, 318. 


teco, 221; — Mixtec, 127; — 


Otomi, 


Chila, 7, 10. 


58, 258; — Totonac, 25 2 ; — Tzotzil, 


Chilchota, 98. 


49; — Zapotec, 40, 177. 




child — deserted, 136; — grateful, 164. 


cotones — see costume. 




Chilon, 379. 


cotton — beating, 202. 




chinampas, 395. 


counterfeiters in Tlaxcala, 94. 




Chinantecs, 210; — land of, 212. 


couple — mysterious, 354. 




chirimiya — Mitla, 18; — Los Reyes, 91. 


Coyotepec, 113. 




Chochos, 218, 226; hats, 224. 


crabs, 326. 




Chols, 380, 389; — dress, 389; — la- 


Cristobal martyr boy, 195. 




borers, 384 ; — type, 389. 


crosses, 269. 




Cholula, 108. 


crucified child, 366. 




Chontals, 173; — type, 175. 


la Cruzada, 387, 391: — unsettled con- 


Christmas celebration, 71. 


ditions, 391. 




church of the thieves, 63. 


Cuaquitepec, 377, 378. 





INDEX 



419 



Cuauhtepec, 251. 
cuezcomate, 88, 190. 
Cuezcomate — the, 189. 
Cuicatlan, 181, 198, 215, 227. 
Culin — Mr., 263, 269. 
Cuquila, 129, 137. 
customs-house, 295. 
cycle superstition, 139. 
cypress, 139. 

dance wands, 257. 

dancers, 317. 325- 

danza, 265, 268; — de la Conquista, 30; 
— de los Negros, 287 ; — de los mes- 
tizos, 325. 

date palm, 126. 

deaf-mutism, 48, 49, 79, 205. 

December, 12, 395. 

deer, 43. 

deformity, 155. 

Diaz — President Porfirio, ix, 396, 397. 

Diego — Juan, 395. 

disaster to plates, 365. 

distance marks, 309. 

distilleries, 51, 315. 

disturbance — village, 202. 

Dona Cecilia, 293. 

Dos Rios, 56. 

doves, 219, 288. 

dragon-tree, 246. 

drinking, 207. 

drunken oflBcials, 24, 25, 29, 71, 72, 80, 
144, 201; — visitor, 335. 

ducks, 278. 

dulces, 314. 

dynamiting streams, 251, 360. 

eagle, 166, 319. 

earthquake, 137, 138; — Tehuantepec, 
161; Papalo, 183. 

echo, 90. 

eggs, 159. 

Ellsworth Mr., 385, 392. 

Embree Mr., 410. 

enagua, see costume. 

enchiladas, 286. 

Esperanza mule-line, 7. 

Espindola, St., 331, 332, 333- 

Espinola — Macario, 1 20. 

Etta, 116. 

Expeditions, vii. 

Eurosa — Sr., 246. 

Eustacio, our carretero, 333, 334» 336, 
340, 341, 344, 347. 348, 349. 352, 379- 

excitement — political, 191, 193. 

exorbitant charges, 8, 9; — Ixcuintepec, 
33; — Xalapa, 174; — Tequixistlan, 
175 ; — Tulancingo, etc., 241 ; — Hua- 
chinango, 243; — Huehuetla, 271. 



faja — see costume. 

fans used in dance, 318. 

feather-work, 82. 

Feb. 5, celebration, 224. 

female beauty, 352. 

feria at Comitan, 51. 

ferns, 23, 27, 44, 154, 199, 207, 349. 

Fernandez — Leandro, x. 

Fernandez — Sr., 320, 323. 

fever, 151, 387. 

fiesta — San Marcos, 31. 

fishes, 317. 

fishing — night, 265 ; — handnets, 266; 
dynamite, 360. 

flight of the Virgin, 196. 

floats in procession, 319. 

flora, 201, 249, 262, 296; — contrast 
on two slopes, 23, 154, 199, 232; — 
curious assemblage, 118; — land of 
Mixes, 22; — tropical, 387. 

flowering shrubs, 22. 

fog, 27, 126, 132. 

forest fire, 34. 

Frank, 189, 192, 200, 209, 213, 216. 

Frontera, 393. 

frost, 245, 251. 

fugitive Jefe, 136. 

funeral — an interrupted, 1 25 ;— time- 
ly, 180; — procession, 199, 332. 

Gillow — Archbishop Eulogio, 3, 6 

glossary, 399. 

godhouse, 88. 

Godinez — Ramon, viii, 200, 209, 272, 

273. 276. 308, 313, 319. 324. 332. 335. 

349, 382, 383. 
goitre, 48. 49. 79, i55- 
gold coins worn, 40, 52, 353. 
Gonzales — Manuel, viii, 108-111, 115. 

156, 166, 171, 184, 189, 194, 198, 200, 

209, 210, 241, 273, 276, 289, 290, 324, 

330. 334, 348, 349- 
Gonzales — Gov. Martin, vii, 114. 
Grabic — Louis, viii, 189, 192, 198, 

200, 209, 210, 241, 273, 276, 306, 313 

318, 329, 348. 
granary, 60, 88, 190. 
granite, 38. 

greetings — New Year, 114. 
grippe, 186. 
Guadalupe, 395. 
Guadalupe, our cook at Tancoco, 284, 

286. 
guamara, 280. 
Guatemala, 43, 52, 340; — money, 

Gutierrez Zamora, 281. 
Guvino, 41, 333. 
Guzman — Gamboa, 301. 



420 



INDEX 



hairless dog, 330. 


Ixtaltepec, 35:^. 


hares, 171. 


Ixtapa, 363, 373. 


hats, 127, 224, 284. 


ixtli, 58, 59. 


hauling timber, 95. 


Ixtacalco, 395. 


hennequin, 296 ; — treatment, 309. 


Ixtapalapa, 395. 


Herman, i, 5, 9. 




herons, 278, 291. 


Jacona, 98. 


Hidalgo — steamer, 325. 


jail — San Cristobal, 367. 


highroad, 40, 173. 


Janicho, 74. 


h'men, 307, 310. 


Japanese, 41. 


honey-wine, 191. 


javali, 334. 


horse falls, 218; — ill, 115, 178, 179. 


jefe politico — drunk, 328; — inefEcient, 


hot springs, 96. 


182, 185, 198, 216; — his relation to 


houses — Aztec, 283 ; — Huaxtec, 284 ; 


his people, vii; — as peacemaker, 353; 


— Tarascan, 97 ; — Totonac, 268. 


— of Tuxtla Gutierrez, 356; — of 


Hrdlicka — his work, v. 


Tulancingo — natural son of, 247. 


Huachinango, 242. 


Jiquipilas, 43, 349. 


Huaclilla, 119. 


jonote, 246, 269. 


Huancito, 99. 


Jornada, 338. 


Huauhtla — view, 232; — town, 233; 


Juanico, 179. 


— trade, 235; — labor ideas, 235. 


Juarez — President Benito, 397. 


Huautla, 218. 


Juaves, 164, 165, 168, 331, 337, 338;— 


Huaxteca verucruzana, 274; — poto- 


type, 169; — night-watch, 170;— 


sina, 274. 


singing, 171. 


Huaxtecs, 261, 274, 279, 281; — char- 


Juchitan, 41, 161, 333, 338, 3431— 


acter, 285; — type, 286. 


trader, 170. 


huehuetes — los viejos, 243. 


juiles, 395. 


huehuetl, 91; — (wrongly so-called), 287 


Juquila (Mixe), 29, 151. 


318, 358, 376. 


Juxtlahuaca — Jefe of, 136. 


Huehuetla, 247, 261, 263. 




Huejutla, 283. 


Kan — Modesto, 312. 


Huilotepec, 166, 328, 330, 331. 


ke'esh, 305. 


huipil, huipili, see costume. 


kingfisher, 291. 


huitzatl, 191. 




Huixquilucan, 56, 59, 245 ; — thieves, 


labor congress, 45. 


63- 


laborers for Yucatan, 294. 


Huixtan, 366. 


lacquer — Chiapa, 45, 361 ; — Uruapang. 


Humboldt — Alexander, at Tula, 16. 


lagoons, 276, 277, 290, 336. 


husband — devoted, 186. 


Lake Chapala, 68 ; — Patzcuaro, 68, 


husk-stacks, 60. 


76. 


Hyde, Dr. George B., 15. 


landslide, 181. 




Lang, — Charles B., viii, 115, 179, 184. 


idols, 253. 


leaf-water, 193. 


Ignacio — boy at Chilchota, 102. 


Leal — Manuel, Fernandez, ix. 


iguana, 54, 32?- 


Leandro, secretario Tamalin, 287. 


imbecility, 48, 205. 


Leon — Governor Francisco, 45, 342. 


incense, 368. 


Leyra — Pablo, 246, 260, 263, 271. 


Indian government, 49, 357. 


libation, 255. 


Indian Mexico, v. 396. 


lightning, 183. 


injured carter, 336. 


limestone, 18, 44, 50, 52, 126, 217, 249, 


interpreter — false, 383. 


262, 296, 306, 314, 363, 364, 373;— 


irrigation, 96. 


erosion, 118; — hills, 219. 


Irvine, Captain, 294. 


llano, 278, 281, 341, 363. 


Isidro — uncle, 193. 


la Llave, 277, 278. 


Itztlis, 240. 


Lopez — Lieut. -Governor, 351, 381. 


Ixcotla, 193. 


lost at night, 167. 


Ixcoyotla (bark paper), 268. 


Lumholtz — Charles, v., 79, 80, 83. 


Ixcuintepec, 33, 156, 157. 


Lux — Ernst, vii, 3, 10, 14, 159. 


Ixhuatlan, 338, 340. 


lycopods, 154, 199. 



INDEX 



421 



macaws, 4, 340. 

Macuilapa, 345. 

Magdalena de los comales, 127. 

maguey, 60, 119. 

mai, 367. 

malacates, 59. 

Malintzi, 188, 189. 

mangroves, 290. 

manias, 128, 148. 

Manuel, our arriero, 218, 219. 

mapa, 236, 330. 

mapachtli, 329. 

mapaho, 202, 207. 

Marcelo — Alejandro, 279. 

Maria as a female name, 56. 

marimba, 42, 346. 

Mariano, our mozo, 115, 119, 156. 

market — Tehuantepec, 162; — Oaxaca, 
112. 

Martinez — Quirino, 249. 

Martinez — Silvano, 78, 80, 83. 

maskers, 71, 240, 243. 

Mayas, 297, 304, 396, 397; — stubborn- 
ness, 312. 

Mazatecs — costume, 234; — houses, 233. 

measuring — Mitla, 146; — Ayutla, 149. 

Medellin, 14. 

medical practice, 36. 

Mendieta, 195. 

Mercado — Governor Aristeo, 78. 

Merida, 295, 297, 301, 315, 355;— ex- 
pensive living, 298; — carnival, 318, 
321. 

mesquite, 97. 

Mexicalcingo, 395. 

Mexico — steamer, 393, 394. 

miraculous cross, 6. 

mist, 22, 27. 

Mitla — ruins, 4; — Mixes seen at, 
13; — festival, 17; — fiesta, 142; — 
work at, 144; — ruins, 148. 

Mixes, 112, 398; — first veiw of, 13; — 
tragedy, 18; — land of, 22; — life, 
23; — roads, 31. 

Mixtec, 115, 139; — boy, 397; — lan- 
guage, 140; — planter, 204. 

mogote, 78, 81. 

mole, 222. 

money — Guatemalan, 51. 

monkey's comb, 340. 

Montezuma, 250, 260. 

moon influences young, 217. 

moonstone, 64. 

Mora — Senora, 278. 

moral = mulberry, 246, 259. 

Morrison — Stanton, 389. 

mosquitoes, 289. 

moss, 273; — crimson, 214; — gray, 
233, 377; yellow, 199, 214. 



mounds, 116. 

moving stone, 349. 

mulada, 387, 

mule — purchase, 15 ; — accident, ^^ ; 

— trouble by, 44; — trouble with, 52; 

— gives out, 53 ; — reported dead, 
117. 

muleteer — affectionate, 179. 
munecos, 246, 250, 258, 261, 268, 269. 
Murcio — Don, 369. 
Murcio — Guillermo, 129, 131, 136. 
Museo Yucateco, 301. 
music — of the Candelaria, 24; — at 
Los Reyes, 91. 

Nabor — Don, 98. 

nacimiento, 195. 

nagual, 166. 

names of one river, 251. 

Negrete, 95. 

los negritos, 8a. 

Nehuatzen, 84. 

Nenton, 49, 52. 

New Year — celebration, 82 ; — gifts, 

339- 
night-blindness, 164. 
night-travel, 172. 
night-watch, 170. 
Nochixtlan, 120. 
norther, 21, 22, 33, 158, 294, 326, 327,. 

393- 
nublina, 232, 233, 261, 272. 

Oaxaca, 4, 6, 15, 112. 

obsidian, 240. 

ocellated turkey, 318. 

Ocosingo, 375. 

Ocotepec (Mixe), 153, 154, — (Mixtec), 

112. 
oleander, 174. 

Once Pueblos, 98; — ride through, 102. 
operation proposed, 136. 
orchids, 23, 27, 44, 126, 154, 199, 201, 

207, 212, 232, 248. 
organo cactus, 18. 
Orozco y Berra, 131, 245, 264. 
Otomis, 56, 242, 261, 397, 398; — 

female type, 57: — costume, $8; — 

male types, 62. 
ox-cart — travel, 334, 33^. 337. 33^' 

340; — accident, 341. 
ox played out, 347. 
Ozuluama, 274, 278; — Jefe, of 276. 

Pacheco — Anselmo, viii, 115, 168, 184. 
Pacific, 37, 43. "2. 132, 160, 165; — 

coast — yellow fever, 329. 
Padre — the, his story, i; — at Chila, 

10; — at Medellin, 14. 



422 



INDEX 



paganism surviving, 254, 269, 305, 307. 

pahuatl, 245. 

Pahuatlan, 242, 244. 

Pahuatlan River, 242. 

Palacios — Conrado, 351. 

Palenque, 377. 

palms, 277, 278,-296. 

Pantepec, 247, 265; costume, 267; — 

houses, 268; — women, 267. 
Panuco, 283. 
Panuco River, 274. 
Papalo, 182, 198, 214. 
papaya, 309. 
parasitic fig, 340. 
el Parian, 118. 
Parracho, 81. 
parrots, 41, 166, 262, 334. 
Paso Real, 288, 289. 
pastores, 72. 
Patzcuaro, 84, 107. 
pea-flower, 201. 
Pearson Company, 326. 
pebbles wedged by torrent, 266. 
pelico, 367. 
pemol, 287. 
peonage, 45. 
Peru tree — belief, 194. 
piano, 208. 
Pichataro, 84, 106. 
pigeons, 219. 

pigs, 377- 

pilgrimage, 48. 

Pimentel — Governor, 351. 

pineapples, 361. 

pines, 128, 182, 371. 

pinguicula, 154. 

pinolillos, 347. 

los Pinos, 344, 345. 

pinto, 47, 332, 353, 361. 

pitahaya (cactus), 96, 216. 

pito, 287, 358, 377. 

plaster prepared, 135. 

le Plongeon — Dr. A., 301. 

Polydactyly, 205. 

Ponce; Padre, 70, 71, 72, 73. 

population of Mexico, v. 

Porfiria, Aztec cook, 286. 

posole, 343, 379. 

pottery, 102, 112, 127, 137, 332, 339. 

pouch — netted, 367. 

Powell — William D., viii, 56. 

predictions dire, 374. 

presidente — sleepy, 267 ; — Zautla, 201. 

priest — drunken, 145; — ignorant, 4; 
active, 234; — gifts to, 123; — recep- 
tion of, 124. 

priestess — pagan, 254. 

prisoners, 368; — of state, 354. 

private cart, 345. 



Progress, 295, 299, 320, 324. 
Puebla, 283, 300, 330. 
Pueblo Viejo, 274, 275. 
pulque, 61, 119; — country, 240. 
puma, 41. 
pumice, 128. 
pygmy statue, 57. 
pyramid, 303, 362. 

quail, 306. 

quarrel adjusted, 354. 

quartz, 18. 

Quechol — Romualdo, 188, 189, 191, 

192, 194, 196. 
Quezaltepec, 31, 155 
quichiquemil, see costume. 
Quiero — Senor, 13, 17. 
Quiroga, 69, 70. 

railroad — Yucatecan, 296, 303. 

rain ceremonials, 271. 

rain-god, 6. 

rattle, 318. 

Rau — Enrique, 385, 386, 390. 

rebozos (Parracho), 8r. 

regidor perplexed, 162. 

resting at summit, 373. 

los Reyes, 90. 

rheumatism cure, 330. 

rhododendron, 22. 

ridge in Yucatan, 306. 

la Riviera, 291. 

road ("rioblanca"), 219; — dilapidated, 

241. 
roads — mixe, 156; Zapotec, 177. 
Robinson, A. A., ix. 
robbery, 63. 
rock-impressions, 196. 
Rodriguez; Governor Pedro L., 247. 
round houses, 131. 
ruins (Tecomavaca), 186. 

Sabina, 84, 106. 

sacrifice, 252, 254. 

salt, 373. 

el Salto, 381, 389, 391, 

San Antonio, 49. 

San Antonio, 228; — excitement at, 231. 

San Bartolo (Hacienda), 19. 

San Bartolo (Hidalgo), 261, 271; — 

market, 262. 
San Bartolo (Mixtec), 126. 
San Bartolo (Zapotec), 176; — costume, 

177. 
San Bartolome (Tzotzil), 49, 366. 
San Bernardino, 232. 
San Bias, 164. 
San Carlos, 152, 177. 
San Cristobal (Chiapas), 364, 365, 385. 



INDEX 



423 



San Estevan, 88. 

San Francisco, 191. 

San Geronimo (Mazatec), 252. 

San Geronimo (Huaxtec), 288. 

San Geronimo (Zapotec), 331, 332. 

San Gregorio, 245, 268. 

San Juan (Yucatan), 308, 309. 

San Lorenzo; 14, 18. 

San Lucas, 232, 235. 

San Mateo del Mar, 168, 334. 

San Miguel, 34, 157. 

San Miguel (Chiapas), 344, 345. 

San Nicolas, 260. 

San Nicolas Panotia, 92, 397. 

San Pablito, 246, 259; — witchcraft, 
257;— paper, 259. 

San Pablo el grande, 258, 261. 

San Pedrito, 119. 

San Pedro, 190. 

San Pedro Soochiapan, 207; — town- 
house, 208; — public service, 200; 
houses, 212. 

San Sebastian, 364. 

Sanchez — Padre, 364. 

sandstone, 374, 377. 

sand dollars, 327. 

sandunga (song), 330. 

Santa Ana, 188. 

Santa Anita, 395. 

Santa Fe de la Laguna, 69. 

Santa Maria, 38, 160. 

Santa Maria (Totonac), 250. 

Santa Maria (Yucatan), 307. 

Santa Maria Albarradas, 20. 

Santa Maria Athihuitzia, 195. 

Santiago Guevea, 37, 158. 

santo-calli, 254. 

Santo Domingo (Chiapas), 350. 

Santo Domingo (Mixtec), 127. 

sastun, 307, 310. 

Sawapa, 89, 194. 

schistose rock, 182. 

school-teachers, 224. 

scientific results of work, viii. 

school at San Nicolas Panotia, 93. 

scorpion, 394. 

sea gulls, 290. 

las Sedas, 116. 

segundo of Zautla, 203, 204. 

selaginella, 154. 

Seler — Mrs., 331. 

semi-domestication, 343. 

sensitive plants, 201. 

September 16, San Miguel's Day, 271. 

shales, 377. 

shaly-sandstone, 374. 

silk, 235. 

singing, 171, 192. 

sister — loyal, 361. 



slate, 20. 

small-pox, 119, 194, 301, 321. 

Smith — Lucius, 4, 15. 

smuggling, 51. 

snakes, 277, 307, 358. 

snipe, 290. 

soldiers, 43. 

songs — Aztec, 192;— Zapotec, 330. 

spear-thrower, 75. 

spinning, 58, 202. 

spot-sacral — on Maya babies, 411. 

stalagmite, 315. 

Starr in Old Mexico, 405. 

stations — railroad, 303. 

streambeds dry, 41. 

stubbornness, 312. 

subterranean streams, 373. 

Suchiapa, 361. 

sugar-making, 244, 249, 314,— mill, 307 

sunset, 192. 

surviving paganism, 6, 395. 

syenite, 43. 

Syrian peddlers, 7. 

Tamalin, 279, 281. 

Tampico, 274. 

TanaquilIo=Tanaco, 104, 105. 

Tanatepec, 42. 

Tanchitla, 251. 

Tancoco, 281, 284; — hats, 284;— 

houses, 284. 
Tangancicuaro, 98. 
Tantima, 280, 282; houses, 283, a86. 
Tapachula, 373. 
Tarascans, 68; — trading, 85. 
Tatarian — Bedros, viii. 
Tecomavaca, 185. 
Tecomavaca Viejo, 186. 
Tehuacan, 8. 
Tehuantepec, 39, 161, 328; — name 

story, 165; — yellow fever, 329. 
Tehuantepec River, 173. 
Tehuantepec women, 112 ; — beauty, 

39; — versus Tuxtla Gutierrez, 352; 

— dress, 40. 
Tekax, 303, 305; — hermita, 304; — 

Jefe of, 304. 
temascal, 191, 192, 283. 
Tenango (Chiapas), 376; — pottery, 377. 
Tenango del Doria, 247, 260, 271. 
Tenejapa, 366, 367, 371; market, 372. 
Teotitlan del Camino, 228, 229. 
tepache, 148, 217. 
Tepanapa, 200, 213. 
Tepehuas, 247, 267; — costume, 264. 
Tepeyac, 395. 
teponastl, 265. 
Teposcolula, 139. 
Tequixistlan, 174. 



424 



INDEX 



thatching, 41. 




United States — ideas regarding, 42. 


theatre, 103. 




Uruapan, 78; — lacquer, 79; — goitre, 


tiger:=jaguar, or ocelotl, 307. 




79- 


tiger-cat, 279. 






Thompson — Edward, 318, 320. 




Valencia — Jefe, 178, 375. 


three-part house, 88. 




Valley hot, 181. 


Tilantongo, 121. 




Van Antwerp — A. L., ix. 


tinajas, 119. 




Venta Colorado, 241. 


Titian — the, 73, 74- 




Vera Cruz, 394. 


titulo, 236. 




Vice-consul (Solis), 299, 320. 


Tlacolula, 142, 180. 




los Vicjos, 71. 


Tlacotepec, 38, 160. 




view-extended, 362. 


Tlacuilotepec, 246, 248, 249. 




village crying, 65, 153. 


Tlaxcala, 85, 188, 192, 283. 






Tlaxcalans, 397. 




wasp nests, 156. 


Tlaxcalteca (song), 192. 




watch-houses in fields, 120. 


Tlaxco, 245. 




water birds, 277; — doubtful, 341. 


Tlaxiaco, 128. 




wayside selling, 76, 242. 


toro play, 324, 384. 




wayside shrine, 28. 


toros, 142. 




weaving, 50, 127, 138, 202, 211, 366. 


torrent-wash, 82. 




wedding, 221, 236. 


Torres — Anastasia, 362. 




weighing, 170. 


Torres — Padre, 72. 




Werner, Mr., 331. 


tortillas, 339. 




wheels — hot, 349. 


tortuga, 318, 377. 




whistles — pottery, 112. 


las Tortugas, 272. 




Wilson, David A., viii. 


Totolapa, 179. 




windmills, 297. 


Totonacs, 242, 247, 251, 265, 396; — 


witchcraft, 246, 256, 376; — cave,. 


fishing, 266. 




256. 


toucan, 44, 340, 348. 




women difficult subjects, 89, 132, 157, 


trade, 170, 235, 236. 




162, 185, 268, 369, 381; — easy 


tramp — American, 50, 52. 




subjects, 235, 265, 285; — of Tuxtla 


tree-ferns, 22, 54, 199, 273, 387. 




Gutierrez beautiful, 352; — Zapotec, 


trees protected, 297, 309. 




339- 


la Trinidad, 390. 




wool, 138. 


Triquis, 131, 398. 




work — nature of, vi; — views regarding. 


el Triunfo, 385, 386, 387, 388, 389. | 


235 ; — methods and difficulties, 61, 


tropical forest, 22, 37, 387. 




86, 122, 132, 144, 149, 183, 234, 312, 


troupe — comedy, 337. 




356. 


tsupakwa, 75. 




wrynecks, 278. 


tufa, 50. 






tufaceous deposits, 119, 139, 263. 




xalama, 259. 


Tulancingo, 239. 




Xalapa, 173. 


Tule, 17, 142; — great tree at, 16. 




Xaya, 307, 308, 309. 


Tumbala, 380, 384, 385, 389;— 


boys 


Xochihua, Sr., 245, 260. 


delayed at, 388. 




xtoles, 317, 323. 


Tuxtla Gutierrez, 44. 33i. 333, 


335. 




338, 346, 347. 350. 351 et, 


357, 


Yajalon, 379, 381. 


376. 




Yaqui, 396. 


Tzendals, 366, 367, 378; — dress. 


372, 


Yautepec, 375. 


380; — hair-dressing, 372. 




yellow fever, 301, 308, 316, 327, 328, 


Tzintzuntzan, 69, 73. 




329, 393- 


Tzotzils, 45, 366, 367; — dress, 3 


66;— 


Yodocono, 120, 396. 


industrious, 366. 




Yucatan, 293, 294; — aspect of, 296; — 

dress, 297. 


ucuares, 102. 






ule, 269. 




Zamora, 97. 


Union Hidalgo = Guvino, 333, 


334, 


Zanatepec, 42. 


335, 343- 




el Zapato, 219. 



INDEX 



425 



Zapote (hacienda), 346. 

Zapotecs, 112, 338, 379, 397; — 
wounded, 19; — woman's dress, 34; 
— family, 34; — traders, 170; — cook, 
171; — family, 176; — songs, 330; — 
painting, 330; — expansion, 339. 



Zautla — San Juan, 2or. 

Zinacantan, 364. 

Ziracuaretaro, 77, 

Zoques, 45, 351;— beauty of women, 

352; — dress, 352; — baby-carrying, 

353;— houses, 357. 



mlB 






xJf^ 



